
Qass F ) ^ . I 3 



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TRAYELS 



WESTERN SLOPE 



MEXICAN GORDILLERA, 



IN THE FORM OF 



FIFTY-ONE LETTERS, 

DESCRIPTIVE OF MUCH OF THIS PORTION OF THE REPUBLIC OF MEXICO ; OF SOME 
OF ITS CHIEF CITIES AND TOWNS; OF THE CONSTITUTIONAL ASPECT AND ■ 
TOPOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF THAT REGION; AND OF ITS PRODUC- 
TIONS AND CAPABILITIES, EMBRACING ITS COMMERCE, AGRICUL- 
TURE, MANUFACTURES, INDUSTRY, MINERAL AND FOREST 
RESOURCES; AS -VVELL AS THE 

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE. 



BY CINCINNATUS 



SAN FRANCISCO : 

WHITTOK, TOWNE & CO. PKIl^TEKS AND PUBLISHEES, 

151 Clay Street, below Montgomery. 

1857. 






C^-^ 



u 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred and Fifty-Six 

BY ]\rAEYrN WHEAT, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the 

Xorthem District of California. 



^2. 




ILLUSTEATIOIS-S. 



PAGE. 
/' FRONTISPIECE 

sf PORT OF MAZATLAN 26. 

'IPORT OF SAN BLAS 93. 

^ PORT OF ACAPULCO ., 374. 

-iPORT OF LA VENTOSA 393. 

^/ PORT OF MINATITLAN 403. 



PREFACE. 



In the narration of events, scenes, or objects, an intent, paramount 
to all others, should be faithfulness and truthfulness ; and bearing 
this impression in mind, it has been my endeavor to picture "Western 
Mexico, not with any overweening notions as to American Destiny, 
but as it appeared to me during my sojourn, and from information 
obtained through official reports and surveys which the courtesy of 
officials and private individuals presented to my notice. 

The Report of the joint Commission to survey the boundary line 
between the two Eepublics, and the Report of the United States 
Deputation to survey the Tehuantepec route for a Railroad, in the 
years 1850 and 1851, in favor of a New Orleans Company, as returned 
and presented to the two respective Governments, have both come 
under my observation. 

And I beg here to return my acknowledgments for not only having 
had the privilege of examining those Reports, but the many graphic 
sketches otherwise forwarded to my consideration and application, 
for the object of this Work. 

Before leaving San Francisco for my Mexican trip, I had presented 
me, thi-ough the Hon. James Van Ness, then Mayor, a letter of intro- 
duction from the firm of Bolton, Barron & Co., to that of Echeguren & 
Co., Mazatlan, which was immediately acknowledged on my arrival, 
in a manner characteristic of true Mexican Gentlemen. From this 
firm and several German houses, residents in Mazatlan, I received 
every attention which I desired ; while the former forwarded my pur- 
poses by the way of introductions where ever I traveled ; thus promot- 
ing the means of my gaining information, the aggregate of which, I 
beg here to present for the consideration of the Public, 

CINCINNATUS. 



CONTENTS. 

LETTEE I. 

The Introduction— A Sea Voj^age to Mazatlan, Mexico— Incidents— American Pas- 
sengers—Their Intentions— Conversation of the Mixed Characteristics— Antip- 
athy against Americans— Eeasoned with them -An IntelligentMexican— Spend- 
ing time at Sea— American Gamblers— Police Inquiries Page 17. 

LETTER n. 

Island of Magdalena— Shipwreck there— Cape St. Lucas— Coast of Lower California 
—Valley of San Jose of California Baja, its Fruits and Productions— La Paz, the 
Capital of California Baja— La Paz Pearl Fishery— Coarse Salt— Imprisonment 
of an Englishman of the Cape— Distance from the Cape to Mazatlan— Met a 
Whaler at Sea near the Cape— A Sea Voyage Tedious Page 21. 

LETTEE IIL 

Captain of the Brig Arizona— Steering for the Port of Mazatlan— Cloudy Peaks- 
Apprehension for our safety— Landscape aspect near the Port— Arrival in Port 
—Custom House Officers- Courteous'conduct of these Oflficers— Description of 
the Poi't of Mazatlan, its apparent capacity and safety— City of Mazatlan, its 
site— Fort commanding the City— Streets of the City— Stores— Gold and Silver 
Coin Page 24. 

LETTEE IV. 

City Dwellings— Floors Carpeted— Mats— Eoofs— Style of Architecture— Houses 
furnished— Goods Imported— Carts and Wagons— Dr. Beaven, his caiTiage— 
Streets Paved— Side-Walks t Page 29. 

LETTEE V. 

Government Buildings— Eave-Spouts— Church— Mexican Architecture — French 
Hotels— Horticulture in the City— Mexican Ladies— Fruits— Plaza Publica— 
Market Time— The Country People or Paisanos— Provisions and Vegetables. 

Page 33. 

LETTEE VL 

Amusements— Promenading in La Plaza Publica— The Scenery— Commercial Im- 
portance of Mazatlan, its destiny, its trade to the Interior and up the Gulf— Mex- 
ican trails— Eainy !?eason— Flour and Flour Mills— Exports and Imports as 
apnlied to Home trade— This Policy— Foreign Duties Page 37 



1 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

LETTER Vn. 

The general Influence of heavy Imposts— Bribing Custon House OflBcers— Peculiar 
Position ofMazatlan, its Eailroad destiny Page 42. 

LETTER VIII. 

Consideration of the Arts, Sciences, and Characteristics in Mexico— Mazatlan, a 
Eival of San Francisco at no distant day— The Extent of heivAgricultural, Min- 
eral and Grazing Lands, not far off— Kinds of Vegetables— Milk, Butter- 
Advantages for Foreigners -Prices of Provisions— El Eio de Rosario, value of 
Eanchos y Haciendas on it, and in its vicmity— Implements of husbandrj'. 

Page 45. 

LETTER LK. 

Principles governing Labor— Advantages to a Country to invite Immigration- 
Maneuvering in Commercial Pursuits— Eight of Free Suffrage— Elections — 
Education— The Amount of Intelligence— Number of Scholars in different Col- 
leges-Number of Persons reaUy Ignorant— Expenses of Public Instruction — 
Number of Pupils in the City of Mexico— Public Libraries— Progress of Arts and 
Trades in the Republic Page 50. 

LETTER X. 



Mode of Traveling in Mexico— Culiacan, the Capital of Cinaloa— Its Importance — 
Productions about the Capital— Border and Interior Indians— Yaqui Indians— 
8j-stemof Slavery— Character of Indian Servants— Peonage Extinct. 

Page 55. 

LETTER XL 

Population of Mazatlan— "Wealthy Merchants— Kinds of Goods— Characters of dif- 
ferent kinds— City Police— Crimes and Imprisonments— Number of Persons 
charged with crime per year in the Republic— Different kinds of Crime— Public 
Imprisonments— Discharging Cargoes of Merchandise— Ser^^auts called Carga- 
dors Page 59. 

LETTER XII. 

Indian Cargadors, their Saddles for Packing, their Strength, Patience and Endur- 
ance—Mixed Castes— Influence of Religion upon the Indians— Arrival and 
Treatment of Americans— Their objects of Exploration and Settlement. 

Page 63. 
LETTER XIIL 

Repeal of Old Laws by Comonfort, and the Privileges thereby gained for Foreign- 
ers-Militia of the Country, and its eflect— Gen. Castro of Monterey, State of 
Cal.— Obstinacy of the presiding Governor, Blancarte— Public Schools. 

Page 66. 



TABLE OP CONTENTS. 
LETTEK XIV. 

Going to Church of a Sunday Morning— Devotion of Mexican Ladies, and the In- 
difference of the opposite Sex thereto— Lent— Last day of Lent— Eeligious Pro- 
cessions— Spectators— iiules for Americans In Foreign Countries— Close of Lente 

Page 69. 

LETTER XV. 

Feelings of Mexican Gentlemen towards Americans— Their desire to know bettet 
the Laws and concernments of the United States of America— Their Impression 
of the Public Schools in the United States, and of the Improvements and Ad- 
vancements generally — Their Complexion, Manners, Customs, and Morality- 
Mexican Gamblers— The American Gambler fined— His Hardihood. . .Page T2. 

LETTER XVI. 

Hours of Business in Mazatlan— Ladies, their Complexion, Manners, Education^ 
Character— Their Marriages to Foreigners— Their Morality and the Sympathy 
received in certain cases— Characters of the Mixed Castes generally— Their 
Wages— Effect of Politicians upon them— Their Predisposition for a Town Life- 
Peculiar Content of all Classes Page 75. • 

LETTER XVIL 

Barron and Forbes— Their Banishment from Tepic— Their reputed Policy and Ad* 
herence to the Santa Anna Party— Their Manners and Characters. . . .Page 79. 

LETTER XVIII. 

Influence of the U. S. Squadron upon Mazatlan, and the Mexican Pacific Coast, 
after taking possession of this portion, and coasting along— The just Policy pur- 
sued by the United States at Mazatlan during this period— Its Efiect— Dread of 
the Americans leavmg— Their Departure— Americans Incurring Misusage. 

Page 81. 

LETTER XIX. 

Customs of Ladies and Gentlemen— Their Dress— Vigilance over Young Ladies— 
Their Marriage— Their Walking in the Streets— Their Manner of Shopping- 
Amusement at Mght— Masquerade Ball and the Police about the Doors- 
Amusements for tientlemen Page 84. 

LETTER XX. 

Mazatlan, a point for Whalers— Light Tonnage Dues— Whaling Ground about the 
Cape and on the coast— Fresh Provisions easily obtained at Mazatlan— Captain 
of a Whaler in the Port, and the ease of Obtaining men for a Cruise— Peculiarity 
ofMexicans in this respect PAGE 87. 



X TABLE OP CONTENTS. 

LETTER XXI. 

Departare from Mazatlan for San Bias— Ifative Schooner— Passengers— Distance— 
The Coast along— Port of San Bias— Its Site— Productions on el Rio de Santiago 
— Harbor of San Bias, a Roadstead— Danger of it in the Rainy Season— Elevation 
of a portion of San Bias— Its supply of "Water— Its Houses— Old Spanish Custom 
House— Business, and that Class residing here— Uuhealthiness of the Site- 
Public Bouses— Native Hotel— French Hotel— Hotel Fare Page 90. 

LETTER XXII. 

Native Hotel— Musketos— Merchandise Landed in Port— San Bias, a Port of Entry 
and Shipment only— "Whites living here— Stages for Tepic— Stage Passengers- 
Heard of an attack of Ladrones— Precaution— Preparation— Trunks Secured— 
Departure at eleven o'clock at night— Thick Woods— Expected attack. 

Pagk 97. 

LETTER XXni. 



First Station, its aspect andSoil— The Improvements thereat— Dispatch of Mexican 
Hostlers— Star-light— C apt. Stocker— Ready for an attack by Ladrones— Forests 
—Wild Birds— Landscape— Second Station — Aspect of the Country— Road- 
Troy Coach— Third Station— Bracing air— Country more Cultivated— Its Pro- 
ductions— Country aspect continued lOL 

LETTER XXIV. 

Arrival at Tepic— La Fonda de Oro— My apartment— Breakfast— Description of this 
Hotel— Its Architecture and Ornaments— The Court-Yard Page 107. 

LETTER XXV. 

Call on the Commercial Hoxise of Banwn & Forbes— Their Agent— Introduction to 
Senor Callier, Superintendent of their Cotton Factory— La Plaza— Churches- 
City Prison— Prisoners tor Political Offences— Extent of La Plaza— Its Prom- 
enades— The Beservois— Its Ornaments Page 112. 

LETTER XXVI. 

Aspect of the City of T^ic from a high elevation— Its Extent— Mountain Springs- 
Streets- Chimnics— Architecture— D-wellings— Private Court-Yards— Valley 
of Tepic— Volcanic Rocks— Soil — ProductioTia— Famine— Sugar Estates— Ma- 
chinery— Continuous Ci-ops— Coffee Plantations— Pasturage— Fine Horses and 
Carriages— Holy Padre in a Carriage— Woodland— Fuel— Lumber— Fencing. 

Page 117. 

LETTER XXVIL 
Hiring a Coach to visit La Fabrics de Algadon de Barron y Forbes— Drive about 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. XI 



the City— Suburbs— The Country and aspect of the Factory— Factory Build- 
ings and Appurtenances— Superintendent— Cotton used, both Domestic and 
Foreign— Country adapted to Cotton Page 124. 



LETTER XXVIII. 

Pleasure Ground near the Factory— Its Ornaments— Fountain with Gold Fish— 
Residence of SeSor Collier and Family— Efifect of Climate on the White Race— 
Their Mode of Living— Fruits— Hospitality of Sefior Collier— Other Americans. 

Page 130. 

LETTER XXIX. 



Intent of these Letters— Ladrones— Enmity between the House of Barron <fe Forbea 
and that of CastaSos— Rise of Comonfort— Principles governing him— Their 
growth in Tepic— Escape of Barron & Forbes from Tepic— Alertness of the Cas- 
tanos Party— An attempt to ship Money without paying the Inland Duties- 
Dangerous for Americans at the Factory in the Winter of 1855-6— Attack of La- 
drones on SeSors Collier anct Hale, in the Stage, going to San Bias— Objects of 
it— Its Discovery and consequence on SeSor Collier— Reported Conspiracy in 
Tepic, while there in March, 1856 Page 136. 



LETTER XXX. 

Factory Operatives discharged when Seiior Collier was Imprisoned— Its effects- 
Present at the Searching of the Factory— Appearance of the Soldiers— Govern- 
ment Appropriation of the Artillery for the Defense of the Factory— Celebration 
in Tepic of the taking of La Puebla— Military Parade on the occasion. March 
26th, 1856— General Review and Parade also the next Day— Thoughts as to them 
—Relations of Peones to Citizens— Their Slave-like appearance— Pittances paid 
to the Clergy— Market-time— Reason thereof— Provisions— Fruits— Prices of the 
same Page 146. 



LETTER XXXL 

Distance to Colima from Tepic— Trail— Rich Soil— Ladrones— Ranches y Haciendas 
—Productions— Forest Trees and Vines Page 153. 



LETTER XXXn. 

Thought of leaving Tepic for Guadalajara— Rich surrounding Country— The Aspect 
and Productions near Tepic— Distance— Departure at 11 o'clock at night, in the 
Stage— Previous Precaution— SeSor Augsburgh and Family— Thick Fog— Scen- 
ery— Agriculture— First Station, its Aspect— Second Station, its Peculiaritie- 
and Buildings Page 157. 



%Xi TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

LETTER XXXni. 

Population of La Labor— Indian Gharacter— Traveling Speed— Hacienda de San Leo- 
nel— Aspect— Soil— Productions— El Kancho de Mirador— Its Population— Ean- 
clio de Galindo— Scenery— Springs — Eancho de Lagunilla, and that of San 
Ysabel— Occupation, and Stock— Milk Page 163. 

LETTER XXXIV. 

Hacienda de Tetitan— Aspect— Productions— Eancho de Vreto— Breakfast thereat 
and its Kind— Its aspect— Humid Lands— Manners and Customs of the Indians 
generally— Mode of Living— Amusements— Chapels on Haciendas— Moral Infor- 
mation gained under the influence of Religion— State Eeligion, impolitic. 

Page 169. 

LETTER XXXV. 

El Eancho de Vreto— Scenery— Trees- Volcanic Eemains— Eancho de Marquesado— 
Features of the Country— Solar Heat— Mineral Aspect— La VUla de Ahuactlan 
Population— Scenery— Pueblo de Ceatan— Aspect— La Villa de Ystlan— Popula- 
tion— Country— Productions— Pious Sinner— Moistened Spots— Eancho de San 
Jose de Gracia— Mixed Breeds— Inducements— Plan de Barrancas— Description 
thereof— WUd Scenery— Productions— Dwellings— Terminus of the Tepic Stage 
Eoad— Hotel Page 176. 

LETTER XXXVI. 

Further Description— Dinner— Sleep— Departure— Scenery— Exchange of Coach- 
man—Hacienda de MochitiUte— Country Aspect— Hacienda de San Tomas— 
Danger of an Attack by Ladrones— Hacienda de Quemada— Population— La Villa 
de Magdalena — Population — Eesidences— Plaza— Lake Magdalena— Sunrise— 
Pursuits— Schools— Scenery of Mountain Landscape— Tequila— Its Population- 
Spanish Policy —La Plaza— Breakfast— StroU— Mexican Feelings towards Amer- 
icans—Beauty of this Town - Schools— Churches— Stores— Maguey, or, Agave 
Americana Pare 185. 

LETTER XXXVn. 

Pescription of El Maguey at Tequila -Known to the Aztecs— Its Uses and Adapta- 
tions among the Aztecs and Mexicans— Departure from Tequila— Pueblo de 
Amatitlan— Population— Country Scenery- Guard of thirty Soldiers— Fears of 
Ladrones— Hacienda de Haastla Page 195. 

LETTHR XXXVin. 

Bancho de Canada— Population— Unique appearance of the Guard, all Mounted- 
Necessity of close Vigilance— A Horseman seen at the base of the Mountain— A 
Ladrone— Scenery— Pueblo de l03 Cedazoa— Population-— La Pais— Los Pu- 
eblitos Page 205. 



TABLE OP CONTENTS. XlU 

LETTER XXXIX. 

Arrival at Guadalajara— Fonda de Frances— Keview— Description of this Hotel— 
Court-Yard Ornaments— Site of the City— Dinner— City Water-Streets -Side 
Walks— Extent of the City— Las Plazas— TheirOmaments— Mexican Acquaint- 
ances— An American— Climate— Buildings, Public and Private— Architecture- 
Cathedral— Promenades— Portales—Alameda-Churches-Institutions of Learn- 
ing— Beggars— Bishop's Palace— Theatre— City Market— Fruits— Productions- 
Thoroughfare from San Bias to Vera Cruz— Population— City Garrison— City 
Anunation— Pursuits - Page 209. 

LETTER XL. 

Learned Professions— Climate good for Talent -Causes against Mexican Progress- 
Statesmen— Weekly Gazettes— Patriots— Population ofthe City— Wealth there- 
of - Country Improvements— Government Expenses— Clergy Exempt— Las Fab- 
ricas de Algpdon y Papel de Atemajac— Description of these— ttenor Newton. 

Page 225. 

LETTER XLL 

Further Description ofthe Factories aforesaid— Their Architecture— Sen or Olassa- 
gara— His Education and Principles— His Cotton Factory— La Fabrica de Algo- 
don de Escoba— S aperintendent thereof— Description of the Eesidences of Sen or 
Lovsrrie, and Senor Olassagara, and ofthe Cotton Factory— Cotton iftuflfs- Cot 
ton Imported— That grow^n in the Country— Stock thereof one year in advance 
—Prices of Cotton Cloth Page 235. 

LETTER XLII. 

Description ofthe Valley of Guadalajara— Its Outline Scenery— San Pedro, a Fash- 
ionable Place of Eesort— Famine in Mexico— Want of Internal Improvements- 
Carriages Let— Dress among the different Classes of the Community— Eio de 
Santiago— Zapopan—Pueblitos Page 247. 

LETTER XLIII. 

Intention to leave for Colima— Preparation therefor— Exchanges— Gloom of Night 
Traveling— Configuration ofthe Country— Scenery— La Villa de Zacoalco de Tor- 
res—Its Population— Description thereof— Say ula Mountains— Cuidad de Sayu- 
la— Sayaila Kange— Pine Lumber— Bees— Fabrica de Papel— Flour Mills— Maize 
—Shepherd Dog— Description of Sayula— Architecture— City of Zapotlan— Pop- 
ulation— Las Plazas— La Fonda —Noted for a Siege, taken and sAcked by Gen. 
Comonfort, in July, 1855— Comonfort censured Page 252. 

LETTER XLIV. 

Productions ofthe Valley of Zapotlan— Volcano de Colima— Departure for Colima 
on Muleback— Trail —Post Master of Colima traveled with— Country Aspect- 
Bright Morning— Plateau at the southeast Base of Mount Colima— Conception 
of it— Productions— Volcanic Matter - Breakfast— La Garita de el Gobierno— El 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

Plan de La Barranca sobre el Camino de Colima -Its Characteristics— Hacienda 
de el Plan de La Barranca, a Sugar Estate— Description of, and Machinery — 
Dinner— Sleep— Starlight— Departure -TonUa— Description of— Many Sugar Es- 
tates-Hacienda de Loma Alia— Quality of the Kice— Country adapted to Agri- 
culture—Country Configuration Pagx 262. 

LETTER XLV. 

Arrival at Colima— Fonda de Frances— Description of— Dinner— View of the City- 
Bide -with Gov. Alvarez, of the Territory of Colima, to Visit an American, three 
miles distant— Senor Barney— Return— Visit to La Huerta de Gov. Alvarez at 
this time— Its Extent— Golden Fruit— Valley of Colima— Eio de Colima— Volca- 
no of Colima— Description of— Its Crater— Extmct Crater— Indians about it- 
Indian Alcalde— Productions about this Volcano— City of Colima— Description 
of— German Houses— Plaza— City Marltet— Churches— Stores— Architecture- 
German Merchants— Puento Grande— Population of the City — Fabricas de Al- 
godon de Cayetano y de Harmonia— Jesuit Buildings Page 271. 

LETTER XL VI. 

Exuberancy of the VaUey of Colima— Its Cultivation— Productions— Cotton- 
Rice— Sugar— Coffee— Cacao Trees, and Their Nuts— Banana and Plantain 
Trees— Description of— Pine Apples— Description of— Different Species of Ano- 
nas— Palm Family— Description of the most Useful— Their Uses and Value — 
Tamarind Tree— Bamboo Cane— JatrophaManihot, and its Uses Page 282. 

LETTER XLVIL 

Banian Tree, and its Fruit— Description of— Maize, its general Use— Famine — Palo 
de Vaca, a Cow Tree— Description thereof— Variety of Plums— Peruvian Bark 
—The Tree— Description of— Sarsaparilla Vine— Kind of Capsicum— Mahogany 
and Logwood Trees— Description of— Vanilla Plant, and its Use.... Page 300. 

LETTER XLVin. 

Orange, Lemon, Citron, and Fig Trees— Description of— Grape Vine— Its adaptation 
to portions of Mexico— Birds, Animals, and Insects Page 3u8. 

LETTER XLIX. 

Consideration of this part of Mexico— Government— Agriculture— Two-thirds of the 
Landed Estate held by the Clergy— Tottering Tenure of Mexico— Preparation 
and departure for Califoiiiia— Puerto de Mauzanillo— Country Aspect— Cactus 
Flowering or Creeping Cereus— Description of— Rural Aspect— El Eio de la Al- 
meria— Encampment— Sleep— Departure at 12 o'clock at night— Danger of Ladro- 
nes— Description of the Danger— Distant yell— Expected Attack— Three Cros- 
ses—Great Fears— Forest Trees and Vines— Jalap Vine or Plant— Settlements- 
Feathered Tribe— Soil— Lake Cuyutlan— Salinas de Cuyutlan— Population - 
Salt Operations— Description of— Country aspect East and Isorth of the afore- 
said Lake— Port of IManzanillo— Description of— Palms— Officials— Artesian Well 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. XV 



Company and Boring— Mines numerous— Sketches of Mexican History since 
the ReYolution— Kepublican Principles Spread— Hatred between Spaniards and 
Creoles— Creole Congress declaring Mexico Free and Independent - Second 
Congress, in the capacity of a Convention, to settle the Principles of a Consti- 
tution—When adopted— The Form of the Mexican Governmeut, and Distribu- 
tion of its Powers— Religion of State— Army— Ecclesiastical "Wealth, or that of 
the Clergy— Registry Law, or Law Lerdo— Policy of the Government since the 
Constitution was formed, up to the Period of Comonfort— Distinguished Men- 
Regeneration of the Government by Comonfort— His apparent Policy— First 
Offices of a Wise Government— Five Hundred Ladrones giving Terms of Peace 
to a City of Twelve Thousand Inhabitants— Configuration of Mexico, an indica- 
tion of Mineral Wealth— Mines Worked— Population of the Republic of Mexico- 
Its Classes— Wealth unevenly Divided— Education of a Few— Commerce Chill- 
ed—Indians resembling— Gadsden Purchase— Its reputed Mines and Extent — 
Objects of the Purchase— Its Railroad adaptability-The Route therefor- Villages 
and Towns in this new acquisition— Two Copper Mountains— Their Richness— 
H. S. Washburn's Notes, descriptive of the Gadsden Purchase— The Gila Valley 
—Arizona Copper Mines— Bones of the Oatman Family— Maricopa Villages— 
Pimo Villages-Soil of the Valley— Various Growths-Game— Extent of the 
Valley— The Seasons— Climate— Scenery— Indian Treatment— Indian Products 
—Chronic Growlers— Frequent Rains-Stock Country— Pioache Peak— Mezquit 
Timber— Gadsdonia Copper Mine— A Baud of Apaches pursued by Americans- 
Tucson Valley— Its Soil— Population of the Town of Tucson— Mexican Outposts 
—Productions— P^pagb Indians -Rain in Tucson Valley— San Xavier— Fine 
Pineries— Sopori— Soil— Mezquit Beans— Silver Mine at Sopori— Arrivaca, its 
Climate and Soil— Tubatama— Productions— Altar, its Trade and Population— 
Sonio, Gold near— Zonoita, its importance— The Country well Watered— Tinaja 
Alta Route— Tinajas Altas— Flower of the Mezquit Beans— Fruit resembling 
Figs Page 315. 

LETTER L. 

Productions varying in Mexico as the Altitude varies— Indigenous Productions- 
Bamboos in Vera Paz- Ancient Ruins north of the Gila mentioned by Garces-Ru- 
ins of the Casas Grandes, on the Gila-Pimo Gold-Arispe in Sonora-Its import- 
ance-Silver Mine near Alamos, also in the State of Sonora-Fort Yuma-Bottom 
Lands of the Colorado River, below the junction with the Gila— Old Mission 
Buildings-Gulf of California explored by Alarchon in 1540-Salinas River, North 
Branch of the Gila-Ruins near— Pimos noted for Agriculture-Bottom Lands on 
the Gila, near Las Casas Grandes—Description of these Houses— Their Origin- 
Tucson, its Productions and Fruits-Irrigating Canals-View of the Country from 
Guadalupe Pass — ^Natural History of the Gadsden Purchase — Practicability of a 
Railroad through the Purchase — States of the Mexican Federation Embraced in 
this Work — Inducements in these— What this Portion of Mexico Needs — ^Em- 
blazoning the Escutcheon of the Nation— Her Patriot — Number of Mines For- 
merly Worked— Regions where they now Exist— Annual Product of all the 
Mines in Mexico — Quicksilver— Primitive Rocks abounding in Gold Veins— S a 
perstructure of Porpheries containing rich Deposits of Gold— Deposits of Rock 
Salt in Oajaca— Geographical Recapitulation of the Western Portion of Mexico- 
First, Lower California— General Description of— Second, Sonora— Description 
of— Guaymas, and its Destination— Its Harbor— Its Rainy Season— The Yaqui and 
Mayo Country— Productions— Railroad Route from El Paso to Guaymas— Heal- 
thy and Sickly Seasons-Its population-The Topographical Form of the Railroad 
Route— Ures- -Houses— Legislative HaU— Architecture— 'Bottom Land of El 



XVI TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

Eio de Sonora — Its Extent — Hacienda of Don Ganderaat Tapahui — Its Produc- 
tions — Hermosillo — Its Valley — Its Population — Its Climate — Eivers, Sonora 
and San Miguel— Style of Architecture— Court Yards— Tlie Alameda— Produc- 
tions of tlie Hermosillo Valley — Its Fruits — Its Wine and Brandy — Its adapta 
bility to the Culture of Fruits— The production of Wheat in the Central and 
Northern Portion of Sonora— Third, Cinaloa— Description of— Fourth, Jalisco- 
Description of— Lake C hap ala— Fifth, Territory of Colima— Description of— 
Sixth, Michoacan — Descriptien of — Seventh, Guerrero — Description of— El 
Puerto de Acapulco— Eighth, Oajaca— Description of— Euinsnear Mitla— Ninth, 
Chiapa— Description of— Rums of Palenque— Tenth, Chihuahua— Description of 
— Casas Grandes, on Las Casas Grandes Eiver — Then- Appearance — Their Anti- 
quity — Their resembling those Houses in Ruins on the Gila River — ^Eleventh, 
Durango— Description of— Twelfth, Zacatecas— Description of-Thirteenth, Gau- 
najuato— Description of Page 353. 



LETTER LI. 

Comparing tlie Mineral aspects of Western Mexico to the State ofCalifomia— Mex- 
icans lack Perseverance— Eivers FloAving into the Pacific- Forest Trees— Grape 
Vines and Mulberry Trees— Cochineal Insects — Value of Mexican Manufactures 
per Year — Her Imports and Exports, the amount of the latter and former — Value 
of Country Estates— Value of City Estates— Amount of Taxation on these Es- 
tates—Imposts on Foreign Merchandise — Debt of Mexico — Revenues, how form- 
ed — Expenses of the Government per Year — Whole Income — Distressed Condi- 
tion of the Country People in the region of Durango — Other Computations of 
the Debt of Mexico — Tehuantepec, the Route of— New Orleans Company con- 
structing a Plank Road across the Isthmus of— Its Advantages over all other 
Routes, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, saving One-Third of the 
Time in Travel, and the Distance of Seventeen Hundred Miles — This, a Capital 
Investment— Tends to induce Immigration into California— Past Experience as 
to other Routes for Years elapsed since Steamboat Navigation began on the 
Pacific — Travel to the Pacific Coast — Tehuantepec Territory — Composed of— 
Its Area— La Ventosa— Its Heat— Its Plain near— Rivers of the Southern Divi- 
sion—The Surface— The Lagoons— The SoU— Its Towns— The Distance across- 
Practicable as the San Bias and Vera Cruz Stage Road— Its Grade— Difl'erent 
Points— Capital to open the Road— Eivers to be Bridged— Towns in the Middle 
Division — Its Climate— Air and Water pure — Bainy Season — Boca del Monte — 
Paso Malo— Eivers Navigable— Northern Division of the Isthmus— Its chief 
Eiver, with its aflJuents — Eiver Bottoms — Towns of this Division — Soil — Pro- 
ductions-Export of Acayuc an— Healthy Climate— Forests— Gold— Energy re- 
quired—Metals—Climate throughout the Isthmus— Spaniards— Creoles— Indi- 
ans— Zoology of Tehuantepec— Sketch of its Vegetable Kingdom— Similar Pro- 
ductions throughout the Tropics of America— Americans called Filibusters- 
Americans in Mexico- Burial Places— View of the Eelations between the Ee- 
publics of North America— That of the Enterprise of the United States of Amer- 
ica — Eeview ofAnahuac — Policy of Spain in the New Government — Spanish 
Motives— Form of the New Government- Fate of past Nations uniting Church 
and State —Destiny of such at present- Propriety of Eeligion -Good in its Pe- 
culiar, Social, and Moralizing Sphere— Object of these Letters— Contracted 
Notions — Progress of Mexico since the Conquest — Indian Bands — Human Sac- 
rifices—Importers of Light and Knowledge— Consequences thereof. . . Paeg 384. 



LETTERS ON WESTERN MEXICO. 



LETTER L 



The Introduction— A Sea Voyage to Mazatlan, Mexico— Incidents— American Pas- 
sengers - Their Intentions— Conversation of the Mixed Characteristics— Antip 
athy against Americans— Reasoned with them -An Intelligent Mexican— Spend 
ing time at Sea— American Gamblers— Police Inquiries. 

Amigo Mio : — Ever ready to sacrifice ease to be of 
service, and the means of communicating information, you 
will please have the kind indulgence to excuse my extend- 
ing to you these many letters. 

The object of these is to impart much of that light res- 
pecting a country which, geographically, possesses a most 
lively interest to Americans. 

On Sunday morning, February 12th, of the present 
year, (1856) when nature seemed invigorated by the fresh- 
ness of the past night, the green shade of morn appeared 
upon the hill-tops, and the sun arose in his pristine splen- 
dor, and lit up the dusky clouds. 

My passage having been secured a few days previous, 
on the hermaphrodite brig Arizona, Capt. Newman in 
command, she hoisted anchor and made sail ; and bidding 
adieu to the metropolis of California — San Francisco — she 
passed gracefully out the Golden Gate, and the helmsman 



18 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

gently turned her course to the port of her destination — 
Mazatlan, Mexico. 

The breeze was light till the fifth daj, when the wind 
arose from the north-east, and continued with slight inter- 
misvsion up to the 21st of February. The period of these 
five days was that of dull monotony, and it could have been 
appreciated much more on land, even in the forest wild, 
than in this slow sailer, dragging her clumsy length along. 
In looking over the passenger list, I observed there were 
twelve cabin passengers, bound for various parts of Mex- 
ico. They were Americans, and with various pursuits in 
mind ; some merchants, mechanics, gamblers, and one 
lawyer accompanied by an American lady. The lawyer I 
afterwards saw in Guadalajara, near two hundred and fifty 
miles from San Bias, inland. It was his intention to re- 
main some time in the country, to acquaint himself with 
its laws and the municipal regulations of its towns and 
cities. If my memory serves me right, there were twenty 
steerage passengers ; consisting of Mexicans, Spaniards, 
Italians, Frenchmen, and also a few Mexican seiioras. Their 
conversation ran much upon California — the success they 
had met with — the many hair-breadth escapes — the treat- 
ment of Americans towards them, and the general feelings 
manifested by Americans against Mexicans and native 
Californians, in the State of California. 

Frequently I reasoned with them, admitting some facts 
which were too glaring to be hidden by any of the lenient 
rules of sophism ; but taking every advantage which cour- 
tesy in argument could possibly afford, to make the Amer- 
ican character in California appear as reputable as the 
force of circumstances would consistently permit, or bear. 
Never being sea-sick, the second day out from the Golden 
Gate, and as we were saihng along under a light wind, I 
became acquainted with an intelligent Mexican, who had 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 19 

passed several years in California, but without success. 
He related many incidents concerning his adventures and 
pursuits in California, and his endeavors to make money j 
but he noticed that his plans were anticipated, and himself 
circumvented by some seemingly unobserving Americans. 
He concluded very justly, that there was no particular ne- 
cessity for Mexicans to emigrate from their native country | 
for out of it, away from their institutions and laws, they 
could scarcely act so as to cope with the business men of 
the world. 

Every day I passed several hours with this gentleman 
in conversation, and reading Spanish, and he in reading 
English to me. In this way we improved each other in 
acquiring what is of reciprocal utility, and husbanded that 
time which is too often turned to a dead account. And 
thus we placed a true value upon the passing moments, 
while many prided themselves upon taking oaths and 
playing cards, that they might the more aptly, adapt them- 
selves to Mexican habits and customs. 

Here let me be candid and anticipate ere I pass on i 
Let no American gamblers come into Mexico with the 
vain hope of ultimate success in that pursuit, or of meeting 
with a cordial recognition in the better circle of society ; 
for here in the land of strangers, and prejudice against 
foreigners, their names sound even worse than at home 5 
and the police, when an opportunity presents, hunt them 
down with unceasing perseverance in most parts. There 
were two noted gamblers on board of the brig ; one from 
Marysville, and the other from Sacramento city, who, on 
arriving at Mazatlan, took lodgings, and soon assumed their 
peculiar characteristics. The police and the most respect- 
able citizens, shortly after our landing, made inquiries of 
the captain respecting the habits of the passengers ; for 



20 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

such an officei* is usually expected to discover something 
of them on a long passage. 

This I will mention more fullj when speaking of our 
sojourn in the city of Mazatlan. 
Adios, 

Senor^ 
Ageicola. 

CiNClNNATtJS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 21 



LETTER II. 



Island of Magdalena— Shipwreck there— Cape St. Lucas— Coast of Lower California 
— Vallej'^ of San Jose of California Baja, its Fruits and Productions— La Paz, the 
Capital of California Baja— La Paz Pearl Fishery— Coarse Salt— Imprisonment 
of an Englishman of the Cape— Distance fi-om the Cape to Mazatlan— Met a 
Whaler at Sea near the Cape— A Sea Voyage Tedious. 



Amigo Mio : — Again I fear that I may trespass upon 
your kind patience in the further consideration of my jour- 
nal. Not far above Cape St, Lucas (near 130 miles) we 
passed the noted island of Magdalena, between which and 
the coast, and near the island, the ill-fated Independence 
was wrecked, with her freight of human flesh, to rescue 
itself the best it could from the lashing and tumultuous 
wave upon wave. 

Of this disaster, and of the passengers, much have I 
heard in foreign parts ; and there the tear of sympathy 
and the hand of charity have been blended together to 
succor and comfort the distressed on this occasion. 

On the 2 2d of February, about noon, we were nearly 
opposite to Cape St. Lucas. Light winds prevailed near 
the cape, and we found it much warmer than usual ; the 
thermometer standing at 80 degrees of Farhenheit. This 
out from land, was a great change in the climate from 
what we had experienced in sailing down the coast. The 
whole coast of Lower California is generally abrupt and 
barren, with few inlets and green landscapes to attract the 
eye of the voyager. 

From the Island of Magdelena to the cape, it presents a 
forbidding aspect, being jagged in its general outlines; 
though directly behind the cape, and within forty miles is 
the renowned valley of San Jose of Lower California. 

This valley is rich in pasturage, and in the production 



22 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

of fruits, and being somewhat capacious, it supplies the 
market of Mazatlan with fresh grapes, far sweeter than 
those grown at Los Angelos, in the State of California ; 
also oranges, limes, raisins, dried figs, tallow and hides. 
At La Paz, in Lower California, pearl-fishery is exten- 
sively pursued, and that too, with profit to the most of those 
engaged in that avocation. 

La Paz is the seat of government of Lower California, 
notwithstanding it is small, and its site sandy ; and were it 
not for pearl-fishery it would be little known, nor ever would 
it have gained its present commercial importance. Large 
quantities of coarse and pure salt, of a fine saline quality, 
are obtained from near La Paz, on small islands in the 
Gulf of California, and shipped directly to San Francisco, 
and also to Mazatlan and San Bias. When near the cape, 
I was informed that an Englishman lived there, and had 
for many years ; that he not unfrequently acted in the ca- 
pacity of pilot to vessels desiring to touch at the Cape, and 
also in that of vender of ship supplies when needed, no 
matter what national flag might wish them. 

For the simple act of supplying an American vessel with 
some provisions, he was seized and thrown into prison, by 
the order of the Governor of Lower California, Blancarte ; 
though prior to this, he was ordered by the Governor not 
to succor any American vessel coming into port, even 
should she be in distress. Perhaps some palliation may be 
extended for this want of humanity and courtesy on the 
part of the Governor, as it was then rather a fillibustering 
period about the Cape. It is near two hundred miles from 
the Cape to Mazatlan, and the direction is mostly east. 
The mouth of the Gulf occupies this distance, and looks 
ocean-like. It is not unfrequently rough, yet small sail- 
boats cross it every week, going to or from Mazatlan. On 
the 23d we sailed along under a light wind, and last night 
we encountered a whaler off the Cape. We rounded to, 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 23 

and slackening sail, passed near enough to salute him, and 
found that he was on his whaling ground. We did not 
learn that he had as yet met with much success, but since 
I have been informed that it is quite common for whalers 
to do well in the vicinity of this latitude. Near midnight, 
the wind arose and continued till ten o'clock to-day, when 
it appeared like rain, which appearance did not pass off 
without giving us a fine shower. It modified the sultri- 
ness of the air, and invigorated much our physical sys- 
tems, and sharpened, in no small degree, our mental capac- 
ities. On the 24th of February at 12 o'clock, we were 
near one hundred miles from Mazatlan ; it rained most of 
the night and part of the next day. The wind was light and 
from the west ; though shifting. Nothing, as to a sea 
voyage, is more painful than to be becalmed out on the 
ocean, in a low lattitude. It is really enough, on a sailing 
vessel, to test most amply the patience of a stoic philoso- 
pher. When contemplating the pleasure of taking a sea 
voyage, it is well to supply one's self with useful books, 
that time may not hang heavily, but be beneficially spent 
in storing the mind with the treasures of literature. It is 
really an unexpected draw upon patience to be cooped up 
in a small brig, with a scanty and unpalatable allowance, 
and that too, for many days, where uncontrolled actions 
strongly indicate the propensities which rule man in a 
rude state of society. 

By this time the passengers became much wearied 
from the length of the voyage, the smallness of the cabin, 
and its want of ventilation, and their unexpected fare, as 
also from the leaky condition of their berths, and common 
humidity of the vessel. 

Adios, 

Senor, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



24 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER III. 



Captain of the Brig Arizona— Steering for the Port of Mazatlan— Cloudy Peaks- 
Apprehension for our safety— Landscape aspect near the Port- Arrival in Port 
—Custom House OtHcers— Courteous conduct of these Ofiicei-s- Desciiption of 
the Port of Mazatlan, its apparent capacity and safety— City of Mazatlan, its 
site— Fort commanding the City— Streets of the Cit^'- Stores— Gold and Silver 
Coin. 



Amigo Mio : — I must confess that I manifest a strong 
propensity as to letter writing, yet it is by the medium of 
travel that we gain accurate information respecting foreign 
countries. 

With reference to our passage, the Captain was attentive 
to his duties in the navigation of the brig, good-natured, 
taciturn, and rather slow to hear ; but he wanted a consid- 
erable more self control and respect to have the domestic 
affairs properly administered on board. We expected to 
arrive in port on the 25th of February, as the wind was 
fresh and drove us along near due east. It is necessary 
at this time of the year to steer above the port of Mazatlan, 
that the vessel may run down, for if she happens to touch 
far below it usually takes her much time to retrace her 
position. 

At the dawn of day, February 25th, land was quite ap- 
parent ; though the mountainous peaks and high hills in 
proximity to the city of Mazatlan, seemed to be hung with 
misty clouds, which shed their influence far out on the 
ocean. We were at eight o'clock within ten miles of the 
city, and possessed of strong feelings and presentiments as 
to drawing nearer and disembarking ; for the tales we had 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 25 

read of this strange country, from our earliest day to this, 
arose slowly to mind and awakened rather a fearful appre- 
hension for our safety, during our sojourn in this Republic. 
It was rainy and cloudy, and slight winds, mostly from the 
south-west, prevailed in our drawing near the port. 

The mountain ranges became quite conspicuous; the 
coast iron-bound with a few inlets ; and the whole land- 
scape with valleys and mountains promiscuously arranged, 
presented to the wearied voyager a grand and imposing 
scenery, and a most beautiful and enchanting green, from 
the fresh rains which nature was then shedding over them. 
Notwithstanding this range, small sugar-loaf mountains 
rose frequently near and in the distance, to break the 
monotony of a continuous scene. At eleven o'clock we ar- 
rived in port, and shortly afterwards we were boarded by 
custom house officers, who to all appearance, were business- 
like men, and so far as I could observe, we were treated 
in no manner unbecoming a great power. Our passports 
were not demanded, no unreasonable search was made, 
and scarcely any delay to our disembarkation was offered ; 
and in fact, I could really see no difference between the 
treatment of Americans here, and on the Hawaiian 
Islands ; though, but of late, a band of fearless adventurers 
were made to pass through this country to the Capital, in 
a wretched and degraded manner. 

The port of Mazatlan is not capacious, nor surrounded 
by those safe land-marks characteristic of many of the ports 
upon the Pacific coast. A southerly wind, or a south-wester 
I should imagine would prove somewhat disastrous to ship- 
ping, as the land is low on the south-east, and on the south- 
west open mostly to the ocean. The inner harbor is far 
from admitting heavy merchant vessels, like the clipper 
ships arriving in the port of San Francisco ; though safely 
the ocean steamers approach and retreat to pursue their 

A* 



26 



TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



Mr 




CITY AXD HAEBOR OF MAZATLAX. 

In the forefrround of this cut of Mazatlan may he seen a number of small houses 
built of sticks, reeds, and adobes, vsith roofs somewhat cone-shaped, and thatched 
■with palm leaves ; while in the middle of tlic engTavinp, but less conspicuous, is 
seen the best portion of the city; and beyond are seen the harbor and high promon- 
tory, which I have already noticed, and which I shall soon mention mure particu- 
larly 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 27 

onward course when touching into this port. Large ships 
anchor under the lee of the Island of Creston, which is 
rather small, but much elevated. In this harbor there are 
two other islands, that of Venado and Pajaros. During 
the rainy season the same winds prevail here as at San 
Bias, and the same dangers as to being driven ashore, de- 
tract much from its commercial position and advantages. 

The city of Mazatlan is nearly surrounded by water, a 
mere tongue connecting it to the main land. Near the 
water's edge and back half of a mile, the surface of the site 
is even, and also to the limit of the city, from the fort on 
the west, for more than a mile eastward ; jet back farther 
it is uneven and ungraded. The Fort commanding the 
inner harbor to the city is located on the side of an eleva- 
tion of near 1500 feet, and on the summit of this, one can 
take into view mountain peaks, capt with hoary rocks and 
mounds ; low hills, and undulating valleys both green and 
beautiful. At this fort there are several cannons planted, 
ranging, one would imagine, nearly half mast of a ship ; 
yet it is reall^j supposed that even these national guns might 
do execution. 

The streets of the city are not laid out regularly, but 
turned and changed as fancy and prejudice might prompt 
different parties to act ; though there is one main street 
which leads out into the country, and on which are situated 
most of the retail stores ; and many of them do a large 
business. The wholesale stores occupy a place on streets 
near the mole, and on those but a short distance in the 
rear. Of all kinds of stores and shops for selling goods, 
provisions, liquors, and vegetables in the city of Mazatlan, 
the number may not exceed ifive hundred. 

The exchange made use of here is gold and silver coin, 
and some gold dust is brought in. The doubloons are well 



28 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

executed and have about them a peculiar attraction ; the 
silver coin has not that neat appearance which the coin in 
the United States usually presents. 
Adios, 

Senor, 
Agbicola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 29 



LETTER IV. 



City D-wellings— Floors Carpeted— Mats— Koofs— Style of Architecture— Houses 
furnished— Goods Imported— Carts and Wagons— Dr. Beaven, his carriage- 
Streets Paved— aide- Walks. 



Amigo Mio : — If I did not conceive some utility in thus 
communicating to you fully what has fallen, and is falling 
under my notice, I should observe a certain degree of taci- 
turnity. Concerning the buildings in the city, I have seen 
some made of stones, though the chief material is soft- 
burnt bricks, of one foot square, yet some adobes are used 
by the poorer classes for the construction of their huts in 
the suburbs of the city. Most of the dwellings are one 
story, being ten feet between the joists, but some foreigners 
and Mexicans of late, have erected two story dwellings and 
stores ; yet this is quite rare here. Buildings are put up 
in a very rough manner, and plastered inside and out, 
though after having been brought to a plumb line ; they 
are then penciled off into squares, which gives them rather 
an attractive, but still an illusory appearance. 

The floors and roofs are made of brick. For the floor, 
the ground is raised and the surface leveled, and then the 
bricks are laid in a cement, which makes the floors very 
durable, and cool in summer. When it is desired that the 
floors should be carpeted, wool or common cotton is laid 
down first, and then the carpet ; by which means the carpet 
is kept from wearing out so fast, and is made pliable. 
Among the poorer classes, the floors are not carpeted 



30 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

usually, but a native mat is used, which rather gives the 
appearance of political economy in a country of so much 
prodigality. 

Heavy joists, and close together, are laid across the walls 
of the building for the roof, and on these, a tight floor of 
boards is adjusted, and then on this, bricks are mechani- 
cally laid to the amount of one foot in thickness, and care- 
fully cemented over so as to make the roof thoroughly 
water-tight. This kind of a roof is well adapted to the 
tropics, as are also the walls of the buildings, which are 
commonly three feet thick. In such houses one never 
feels oppressed by heat, nor affected by cold, but can 
always sleep well at night. I am not aware that I com- 
monly discovered any particular mechanical skill in the 
construction of the buildings in this city, nor much good 
taste. The style of architecture is rather mixed with that 
of the Moorish and Gothic, scarcely indicating any of the 
national peculiarities. The doors are clumsy and large, 
and are generally fastened on the inside by wooden bars ; 
and the windows have mostly iron gratings of three quarters 
of an inch in diameter, and sometimes shutters. Glass 
windows are not common only among the better classes, 
and the iron gratings to all rather impress a foreigner with 
the idea of being in a city of prisons, than in that of free- 
dom of speech, or locomotion. 

The inside walls are frequently papered, and that in the 
French style, with French paper ; and the parlors of the 
rich are elegantly and tastefully supplied with French 
chairs, centre-tables, sofas, pianos, mirrors, Turkey carpets, 
mats, &c., &c., and in fact, with all such, houses are fur- 
nished which would constitute ic ell-arranged mansions in 
the United States, or in Europe. Also as much attention 
to the comforts of the sleeping apartments, I imagine, is 
paid in this Republic, among the better class of Mexicans, 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 31 

as in the United States or Europe, among the same class. 

Most of the goods sold here are imported directly from 
Europe ; and German houses seem rather to take the lead 
in commercial pursuits throughout the country. Gold, 
silver, copper and dye-woods are shipped to Europe in 
payment for these goods. Log-wood is in great abundance 
in the rear of Mazatlan, and to no great distance. Many 
ship loads are packed in on mules and burros, which go 
grunting along the streets, as if keeping time to their slow 
and steady march. Frequently I have seen one hundred 
in a train, passing on to the point of deposing their weighty 
loads, burros are made use of for packing mortar, bricks, 
lumber, c&c, from house to house, and place to place, about 
the streets, instead of drays ; though of late years, and since 
the war with the United States, a two-wheeled cart has 
come into use, and also some wagons drawn by mules, har- 
nessed in the usual manner of other countries. 

As yet, I have seen but one four-wheeled carriage in 
the city, which is owned by Dr. Beaven, a druggist, from 
the State of Kentucky. This gentleman has practiced 
his profession some fifteen years, in this town and region of 
country, not distant more than one hundred leagues. He 
has been truly successful and is now living in comparative 
affluence ; and having some years ago married a Mexican 
lady, he seems to get along smartly, by identifying himself 
with the welfare of the country ; though encompassed and 
nurtured in the midst of revolution. The Doctor seldom 
rides in his carriage as the streets are not well adapted to 
this kind of pleasure, and as a carriage road does not ex- 
tend far into the country. The streets are mostly paved with 
round cobble stones, and in a concave form, so that the 
water may drain off in the centre of the street ; these 
stones are laid in cement and become quite firm, so that 
they are not easily misplaced, except during the rainy 



32 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

season. The sidewalks are narrow ; some are made of 
timbers hewn and laid, so that two persons can walk side 
by side ; others are constructed of soft-burnt bricks, and 
also flag stones. On any of them but two persons can 
walk together, and generally when met in this manner, 
some of the party step from the sidewalk on the street, to 
effect the passing. 

Adios, 

Seiior, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 



LETTER V. 

Government Buildings— Eave-Spouts— Church— Mexican Architecture — French 
Hotels— Horticulture in the City— Mexican Ladies— Fruits— Plaza Publiea— 
Market Time— The Country People or Paisanos— Provisions and Vegetables. 

Amigo Mio — Every thing here being so different from 
what it is in the United States, there seems to an observer 
of events and scenes, an ample scope to enter into, for the 
purpose of imparting information of interest and worth. 

The Government buildings, such as the Custom-houses 
of foreign and inland duties, forts, arsenals, and the custom 
house for the reception of goods being inspected before the 
foreign duties are paid, are, for the most part, well con- 
structed, capacious, airy, and remarkably adapted to the 
torrid zone. These, as well as private buildings, have a 
species, or rather kind, of eave-spouts, which, in the rainy 
season scarcely extend the dripping waters from the side- 
walks. This, in the United States, would seem like a great 
inconvenience and nuisance to foot bipeds in passing along 
on the side-walks. Here many a time, I have seen, by this 
means, a starched collar and pleati@d ruffle laid low in mois- 
ture, to cool off the imagination, as the wearer rapidly 
walked along, intently pursuing his object. 

There is but one church in Mazatlan, and this is not very 
large ; though sufficiently so to hold the church-going citi- 
zens. But few of the gentlemen attend church, and scarcely 
any of the foreigners. This subject I shall allude to when 



34 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

speaking of the manners and customs of this people, in an- 
other part of these letters. 

What adds most to the Mexican composite architecture, 
consists in the beautiful construction of arches and col- 
umns, and these are not uncommon to the better class of 
buildings facing the streets, or inside of the court-yards, 
both for the first and second stories. They rather impress 
a stranger with the attractive order and grandeur of Span- 
ish architecture. 

In the City of Mazatlan, I have yet seen but two hotels ; 
and these are kept by Frenchmen, who charge enough, ($1 4 
per week) and have many changes of plates, but more gas 
than sauce. In fact, such hotels in California would re- 
ceive no patronage, and would not here, were it not neces- 
sary for travelers to resort to some public inn till they be- 
come acquainted. The French are quite noted for hotel 
keeping throughout the Republic ; and it is equally notori- 
ous to American travelers in Mexico, that, with a few 
praiseworthy exceptions, they are the meanest and most 
parsimonious hosts who have ever chanced to grace an inn, 
or a caravansary. In such hosts, there is one thread only 
uniting them to existence ; and this deranged, their whole 
system would evaporate like the morning dew. A good 
hotel in Mazatlan is much needed ; and if kept upon a plan, 
so as to use freely such articles-and provisions as the mar- 
ket affords, the traveling community would have but little 
reason to complain. Scarcely any attention is paid to hor- 
ticulture by the citizens at their private residences ; though 
inside of the court-yards, flowering shrubs, rose bushes, the 
myrtle, the hyacinth and the trailing vine, &c., &c., yet in 
small variety, are not unfrequently seen, trained by the 
snowy hand of some delicate, blushing maid. From what 
I have been able to observe of Mexican ladies in this par- 
ticular, I am disposed to give them much credit for their 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 35 

delicate and refined taste, as to the adjustment of flowers 
and plants. 

Fruits of those kinds which would grow well in proxim- 
ity to the city, are rarely cultivated, either for ornament, 
beauty or use ; notwithstanding, the public plaza is now 
tastefully laid out, with seats on the sides of the square, 
made of brick ; having brick backs and painted red, witlj 
brick walks through the centre, coinciding with either point 
of the compass, and with a circular brick walk inside the 
seats around the whole circuit of the plaza ; and to enhance 
the beauty of this, every fifteen feet, orange trees are set 
on the inside edge of this circular walk, which truly adds 
a graceful beauty to the whole scene. Still to complete 
this picture in the mind, in the centre of the plaza imagine 
a beautiful fountain of crystal water, such as of the gods 
of yore, playing jetfully and mirthfully in the golden rays 
of the sun by day, or at night in the starry or silver moon 
beams. Sunday morning, and before church time, is the 
particular juncture of time for Mexican countrymen, living 
at a distance in the interior. These boors come into town 
on Saturday, and having adjusted themselves for the occa- 
sion Saturday evening, both male and female, on the mar- 
ket ground, they remain there till morning, when a lively 
trade springs up by the citizens, or their servants, flocking 
to the market square, like so many hounds pursuing the sly 
fox or the lone hare, and purchasing articles and provis- 
ions, vegetables and fruits, to do them a week. 

Corn, beans, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, eggs, red pep- 
pers, bananas, plantains, oranges, limes, several species of cus- 
tard apples, squashes, pumpkins, water melons, musk melons, 
chickens, turkies, and a variety of gallinaceous birds, such 
as the "hoco or curasson," penelopes and pheasants ; also, 
crockery ware, chairs, and other articles of artistical skill 
and workmanship, compose not unfrequently what are 



36 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

brought in to supply a Mexican market. If any of these 
productions or articles find no sale after the demand of the 
morning has passed, there are no few hucksters near at 
hand, like starved buzzards, ready to purchase at a reduced 
price the balance unsold of the countrymen's labor, and 
vend this purchase through the week, to those who are un- 
able to buy more than a day's supply ahead. The general 
prices of these provisions and articles, range nearly the 
same as in the cities of New York and New Orleans in the 
United States. 

Adios, 

Senor, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 37 



LETTEli VI. 

Aitiitseitietits— Promenading in La Plaza Publica— The Scenery— Comiilei'ciai tUl' 
pol-f fence of Mazatlan, its destiny, its trade to the Ihterior aiid up the Gulf— Mex= 
lean trails— Eainy ^ eason — Flour and Flour Mills— Exports and Imports as 
Applied to Home trade— this Policy— Foreign t)uties. 

Amigo MIO-— Knowing your inordinate thirst for infor* 
mation touching distant countries, and feeling not unfre- 
quently lonely, it is a pleasure to associate with an esteemed 
friend, when I enter the thick walls of my apartment and 
contemplate home, — the land of telegraph and steam ! 

Though there is no theatre, no museum, no menagerie of 
animals, high or low, in Mazatlan, ladies and gentlemen 
come into the plaza of a light star or moon light night, to 
delight each others' ears in the revelry of sound-— to tell 
here the tale of sympathy, and perhaps of affection, and vow 
before their God a mutual and confiding promise. Here 
too, they promenade till a late hour, enjoying the beauty of 
the scene, the fragrance of the orange trees, gently wafted 
on the softened breeze ; and these decked in blossoms of 
milky whiteness, and the roar of the ocean lashing the 
shelving shore. 

Here too, the eye is cast upon distant landscapes and 
mountain peaks, which impress the observer with pleasure 
and admiration. Here too, I have frequently walked while 
in the city, contemplating the promenading scene of ladies 
and gentlemen around me, the beautiful exhibition of na- 



38 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

ture here and inland, and the event of annexing Lower 
California, Sonora and Cinaloa, by the consent of this Gov- 
ernment and purchase, to the United States of the North. 

Mazatlan is now a commanding commercial town, of a 
rapidly growing importance to the States of Cinaloa, Sono- 
ra, Lower California, Chihuahua, Durango, and the north- 
ern part of Jalisco. Take your imaginary stand, amigo, 
on some elevated point near this city, and cast your eyes 
southeast, east, northeast, north, northwest, and behold the 
vast regions of agricultural, grazing and mining lands as 
yet untouched ! The trade supplying that region mostly 
flows from Mazatlan, and in return she receives the natu- 
ral and artifical wealth of those parts, which will continu- 
ally fill her coffers with an abundance of treasure. 

This city has but few equals geographically, and is des- 
tined, at no distant day, as light breaks in upon this be- 
nighted land, to assume greater advantages — to invite to 
her municipal confines a more intelligent people, and finally 
stand without a rival on the Pacific coast ! Sailing vessels 
go now leisurely and steadily up the Gulf of California, 
instead of steam, taking the productions of the South ; such 
as sugar, coffee, rice and tobacco, with foreign and domes- 
tic merchandise, and exchange these for flour, fruits, 
gold, silver, copper, pearls, salt, hides and tallow. Some 
considerable sugar, rice, cotton, corn, beans, onions, garlics 
and tropical fruits, are produced in the rear of Mazatlan ; 
also, gold, silver and copper mines are worked advantage- 
ously. Grazing is also a great object of pursuit, both in 
the State of Cinaloa and that of Souora. 

This city commands the trade and supplies the wants of 
the country people and the inland towns, in a two-thirds 
circle from two hundred to one thousand miles, in the vast 
interior. Rich merchants come in from the country with 
pack trains, who have extensive haciendas, gold or silver 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLEEA. 39 

mines, or who are exclusively engaged in commercial pur- 
suits. To behold these trains coming into town, would re- 
mind one of a striking resemblance to a caravan traveling 
in the East, if one should be pre-disposed to indulge in a 
lively flight of the imagination. Trains after trains of 
mules, loaded with agricultural and mineral productions, 
come in to pay for goods purchased here ; and much the 
largest proportion of these productions is shipped to for- 
eign ports. Thus, a lively exchange, both domestic and 
foreign, is kept up, and continues most of the year, except 
during the rainy season. Then the roads, or rather trails, 
become worse than in California ; for the rivers and rivu- 
lets assume a frightful appearance, being for the most part 
without bridges. The rainy season commonly includes the 
months of June, July, August, September, and a part of 
October ; and, during most of this time, it rains a little 
nearly every day. 

Most of the flour used in the cities of Mazatlan, Tepic, 
and Colima, and the ports of San Bias and Manzanillo, is 
exported from Guaymas, in the State of Sonora, where the 
merchants purchase the wheat from the interior ; and some 
of them having flour mills, for commercial and neighbor- 
hood convenience, the wheat is ground and packed in 
sacks of one hundred pounds, and exported not to foreign, 
but home ports. The flour is nearly as white, possessing 
the same qualities, as California flour. 

The terms export and import being mentioned here to 
indicate the transaction of business in the same Republic, 
may sound harsh and unharm onions to our ears ; for goods, 
agricultural commodities of whatsoever kind, being shipped 
from one seaport town to another, no diflference if they are 
natural productions ; they are however subject to a heavy 
duty, to be paid at the port of disembarkation ; and this 
goes to the State and municipal coffers. And further in 



40 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

this respect, I have to add, that foreign goods, having once 
paid the government import dues at the port of entry, for 
the town in the interior, are still subject to an increaseed 
inland duty in case the merchant finds it to his interest and 
advantage commercially, to remove them to other towns 
and cities. The home duties, and foreign duties once paid, 
it seems to Americans most unnatural, and impolitic in the 
art of government to re-demand the same, as there is 
scarcely any encouragement left or presented to induce 
home industry and commerce. The interior duty touches 
every article brought into market for sale, which it becomes 
necessary to pay or leave a pledge at La Garita, just before 
entering the city. Gold coin or dust, coming in to be 
shipped to foreign ports, pays four per cent., and silver 
coin ten per cent, inland duty, under the early part of the 
administration of 1856, and many previous ones. As for 
instances of home duties, the few I am now to mention, 
will serve to demonstrate how unjustly they grind the 
face of the industrious producers. When a dozen of eggs, 
a chicken, a hen, or any of the gallinaceous tribe. Chili 
pepper, or vegetables of any kind, or a burro load of 
charcoal, which is commonly used in all Mexican towns 
for cooking, are brought into town from the interior, or 
out of the city limits, the vender has to pay a small 
duty, which goes to the support of the corporation and gov- 
ernment ; while the rich man, owning thousands of acres of 
land, and cattle, and mines, is scarcely aware of the in- 
fluence of direct taxation. This policy, as well as many 
other illiberal regulations with reference to inland duties, 
and also foreign, will, I presume, be eventually removed by 
the anticipating and sagacious mind of Coraonfort. The 
seaport or foreign duties are much higher than they should 
be to promote a healthful interchange of commerce, being 
from fifty to one hundred per cent, on the first cost, on many 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 41 

articles, besides which, some articles, under different ad- 
ministrations, meet with a total prohibition ; such as flour, 
sugar, coffee, and not unfequently, tea and tobacco. 
Adios, 

Senor, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



42 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER VII. 



The genei'al Influence of heavy Imposts— Bribing Custon House Oflicera— Peculiar 
Position of Mazatlan, its Railroad destiny. 



Amigo Mio :— Mentioning in mr former letter the ex- 
traordinary duties imposed by the Mexican Government 
upon her tax-ridden people ; one would suppose that it 
would sap the foundation of commercial pursuits, or at 
leastj a legitimate application of them. This measure is 
well conceived to impoverish the lower classes, and enrich 
the higher, for there is scarcely any tax upon real estate, 
of ^yhatsoever kind. These enormous duties and prohibi- 
tions have led, many times, to peculation and malfeasance 
in the faithful discharge of official obligations, as the ex- 
tensive importer is sure to banter the custom-house officers, 
in order to effect a diminution of the import dues. This, 
when resorted to, is arranged between the parties most 
generally as follow^s : The consignee appropriates to him- 
self one-half of the .custom-house dues ; one-fourth goes 
to the custom-house officer, and one-fourth to the Gov- 
ernment ; and then to complete the climax of shrewd 
maneuvering, the consignee charges the whole im- 
port duties to the home merchant, or shipper. This, in 
Mexico, is called keen Yankee loiring. Whereas the duty 
is fifty per cent, on five hundred thousand or a million of 
dollars worth of merchandise, which amount some of the 
merchants of this city have yearly sent to them from Eu- 
rope, to be sold on commission ; it becomes a great and 
important object, and more especially to the importer, or 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 43 

consignee, to retrench as much as possible, this enormous 
sum flowing into the government treasury. Sometimes 
tobacco is prohibited, and at other times it is passed under 
a medium duty, and then again, it is nearly exempt from 
duty. Recently I was jocosely told by a merchant 
speculator, who had sent to the United States for a large 
supply of this commodity, that before his cargo arrived, 
modifications in the tariff had taken place, and that upon 
tobacco was put so high that the government import duty 
nearly absorbed the consular or commercial valuation of 
the tobacco. In such a case, common justice and equity 
would require a time given ahead for the repeal of such 
laws to take effect, which should, in all cases, be a reason- 
able time, for the encouragement and promotion of 
commerce. 

By good authority, I have been told that bribery, with 
reference to custom-house concernments, has been com- 
monly and boldly resorted to, and that the custom-house 
officers have largely shared in the spoils of the government ; 
reasoning thus : That the present would be the best oppor- 
tunity to swindle the government, and appropriate to them- 
selves some of the precious metal. However, since my 
sojourn here, I have been informed that the President of the 
Republic, Gen. Comonfort, has exercised much penetration 
and forecast, in appointing to such posts gentlemen of tried 
and faithful integrity. One or two instances of an attempt 
to bribe have come under my notice while here, and I must 
confess to you, that I have been much pleased to see 
manifested a devotional and national respect to the high 
and all-important interests of the country. 

Mazatlan occupies, I am happy to inform you, another 
geographical position, which, by Americans, is not much 
known nor regarded at present. From this place to the 
mouth of el Rio Grande, in Texas, it is near six hundred 



44 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

miles direct, and I am informed by intelligent gentlemen 
of different nations, that a railroad from this city to the 
mouth of that river is wholly practicable, and can be made 
in passing over the distance of one thousand miles. This 
route, by gentlemen of mind and knowledge to judge, has 
been passed over with an eye single to this object ; and 
when one sits down and reflects dispassionately upon the dif- 
ferent routes proposed, to link ocean to ocean, it is no more 
than reasonable to conclude, that at no distant day, the most 
practicable one will be secured, and that means of a most 
co""ent character are now at work, in a latent manner, in 
both Republics, to promote and effectuate this desirable 
and national iron band. 

Adios, 

Seiior, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATCS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA.. 45 



LETTER VIII. 

Consideration of th.e Arts, Sciences, and Characteristics in Mexico— Mazatlan, a 
Rival of San Francisco at no distant day— Tlie Extent of lier Agricultural, Min- 
eral and Grazing Lands, not far off— Kinds of Vegetables— Milk, Butter- 
Advantages for Foreigners -Prices of Provisions— El Rio de Rosario, value of 
Ranchos y Haciendas on it, and in its vicinity— Implements of husbandry. 

Amigo Mio : — However, I am in Mexico, and among a 
people who have made but little advancement in the arts 
above their ancestors, or in some respects, the Aztecs ; 
and scarcely any in the sciences since their secession from 
Spain, and organization into a Republican form of Govern- 
ment. I feel wholly disposed to truthfully represent this 
people to my fellow-countrymen, for among them in the 
emphatic sense, there are ladies and gentlemen of the 
highest characteristics of virtue and mind. 

The city of Mazatlan, in my humble opinion, from my 
knowledge of this coast, will be, in a few years, the strong- 
est and most powerful rival which San Francisco can pos- 
sibly encounter, under every consideration of railroad, 
agricultural, mining, and commercial advantages. The 
vast extent of fertile land to be cultivated in the rich pro- 
ducts of the tropics, lying at every point of the compass, 
except on the west, — the mining and grazing interests, all 
now scarcely begun, — do most assuredly give this city no 
small geographical and topographical considerations. 

And its proximity to the Gulf of Mexico, should also be 
viewed with a careful eye, as possessing strong and unsev- 



46 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

erable relations to our vast country, lashed by either ocean. 
Not far from the city, upon high elevations where the land 
is fertile and vastly productive, as good vegetables and 
fruits could be grown as in California ; but this to a Mex- 
ican would seem like labor, to climb the bold ascent and 
plant the adapted field ! 

Even on the low land, on a level with the sea, there is 
not much cultivation, except in a few vegetables to supply 
the market, the names of wdiich are Irish and sweet pota- 
to?, onions, garlics, lettuce, Chili peppers, squashes, water 
and musk melons, and pumpkins. Tropical fruits come 
more from the interior. In the market I have usually seen 
an abundance of eggs sold at one real per sixteen, and the 
gallinaceous tribe, also at a reasonable price, as in the 
eastern or western portions of the United States. I saw 
here no remarkably good vegetables, as possessing a 
fine flavor ; for no care is exercised to change seeds, in 
order to improve thereby the productions so much longed 
for, especially by those accustomed to their use and health- 
ful influence. It is rather hard living to most of Califor- 
nians coming to Mexico, so accustomed as they are to their 
vegetable life. This month, (March) I saw Irish po- 
tatoes grown near the city by a German, who had lived 
a long time in the neighborhood of the Mission of San Jose, 
in the State of California. 

They were of the size of a goose egg, and seemed quite 
eatable, especially where vegetables are hardly to be found. 
They were worth twelve cents a pound, and so were Irish 
potatos imported from San Francisco, — yet a fev/ hun- 
dred bushels of the latter would abundantly supply the 
market, at any time. 

Seldom did I see much milk in use for culinary pur- 
poses ; and good butter is comparatively unknown in this 
market ; yet some is sent here from Guaymas, but it is of 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 47 

a whitish color and almost tasteless, which is also true 
respecting the cheese which the Mexicans make in various 
parts of their country. 

Lower California furnishes large quantities of this 
cheese for the market of Mazatlan, and also that of San 
Francisco. An industrious American might settle in the 
vicinity of Mazatlan, and following most any pursuit, such 
as gardening, keeping a dairy, or even agriculture, he 
would accumulate a snug fortune, and in a short time retire 
from a close applicancy to business, living in comparative 
ease and affluence. 

Corn is worth from fifty cents to one dollar per bushel j 
beans nine dollars a mule load, or three hundred pounds ? 
oranges and limes, ten dollars per thousand, which are 
grown in the interior, and are of a fine quality ; sweet pota- 
toes, six to ten cents a pound ; beef, pork, and mutton rate 
in price from six to ten cents a pound ; poultry and eggs 
are worth as much here as in the United States ; and other 
articles of provision bear nearly the same price as in St. 
Louis and New Orleans. 

Horticulture, to embellish the town and add a charm and 
also increase the center of attraction to home, when the busi- 
ness man is wearied from the exertions of the day ; and 
agriculture to reclaim and reduce a howling wilderness to 
the radiating effulgence of happy civilization, improving 
and advancing the prosperity of the country, might be most 
extensively pursued in Mazatlan, and on the fertile lands 
in the interior, near el Rio de Rosario, twenty miles south- 
east of the city. 

On this river, and throughout the country land is cheap, 
and I am informed that un rancho, or rather una hacienda 
of one, two, or three leagues in extent, can be purchased 
for the small sum of two, three, or four thousand dollars, 



48 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

having good improvements for the accommodation of agri- 
cultural pursnits. 

The implements used in husbandry, consist of a rough 
structure of an ancient origin ; for long before the founda- 
tion of Rome by Romulus, or the Trojan war, they must 
certainly have been in use, and have required no extraordi- 
nary stretch of the understanding to have conceived their 
simple construction. The plow consists of two poles, one 
six feet long and the other fifteen feet, fastened together by 
the means of a mortice and tenant at an angle of sixty- 
five degrees ; through and near the end of the short pole 
there is a pin to steady the plow, and on its end there is 
attached a pointed iron or steel shoe, to prevent it from 
readily wearing out. The yoke has no bows, but is fastened 
on the heads of the cattle by the means of thongs, and so 
is the tongue of the plow to the yoke. The ground is sel- 
dom penetrated more than three inches, and afterwards it 
is usually bushed over. 

Thus in Mexico does agriculture, the basis of national 
wealth and importance, the hand-maid to prosperity and 
happiness, the typical Goddess of Liberty and Indepen- 
dence, receive the rare protective care of Genius ! 

The scythe, the cradle, the sickle, the hoe, and in fact 
almost every implement of husbandry, as well as that of 
architecture, appear to an American, accustomed as he is 
to move these pursuits by locomotive power, and perform 
in a few days what it would require the Mexicans weeks to 
accomplish, in a most wasteful manner, like a prostitution 
of the physical and intellectual powers, which a wise 
Providence has bestowed upon man i'or the fulfilment of 
his mission here below. 

However, I heard of a few reaping, threshing, and 
also winnowing machines, with their appurtenances, having 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 49 

been introduced into Mexico from the United States, and 
also that they were highly appreciated by those who saw 
them applied to work. 

Adios, 

Senor, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



50 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER IX. 



Principles goA'eniing Labor— Advantages to a Countrj' to invite Immigration- 
Maneuvering in Commercial Pursuits— lliglit of Free Suffrage— Elections- 
Education— 1 he Amount of Intelligence— :S umber of Scholars indillerent Col- 
leges—Number of Persons reall}' Ignorant— Expenses of Public Instruction- 
Number of Pupils in the City of Mexico — Public Libraries— Progress of Arts and 
Trades in the Republic . 



Amigo Mio : — The amount of information which it is 
my purpose, in these many letters, to convey to the public 
through the medium of you, has been acquired by much 
travel and observation, both fatiguing and dangerous. The 
principles which govern labor here and in the United 
States, are very different, and rather extraordinary. In 
the former it is a dishonor, and in the latter, it is an honor, 
to labor. It is thought beneath a white man to labor in 
the field, or at any mechanical work ; therefore this class 
follow commerce, professions of different kinds, or politics, 
and neglect the staff, the soul, the spirit of the country's 
prosperity and happiness. 

I have often heard it remarked that one's stock is run- 
ning out from want of changing the breed ; perhaps this 
might not be inapplicable to the Spanish race in Mexico. 
A young Mexican of fine education, a man of mind and 
thought, suggested this view of his country's fair sex to my 
consideration, and cited the United States with their mil- 
lions of emigrants from different nations, in proof of this 
remark or sugs^estion. A nation for years offering no 
inducements to others, but marrying and intermarrying 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 51 

among themselves, and being tenacious of family interests 
and femily alliances, — like individuals, must exhaust that 
muscle, and nerve, and mind, which nature would impart 
to them in their liberal interchanges with foreign powers. 
Therefore, a country to be truly prosperous in every 
respect, should make immigration and settlement as easy 
and attractive as possible, or as circumstances might admit 
of. With regard to commercial pursuits in this city, there 
is much maneuver, when merchantmen arrive off the coast 
and near the port, from Europe. Speculation and banter- 
ing run somewhat high, though in the under-current, so 
that a stranger or a casual observer would hardly suspect 
any change in the commercial atmosphere. It is custom- 
ary for the captain to hoist a signal to see if all is right on 
shore ; if so, they sail in and anchor ; and if not, they ply 
off and on, communicating with the consignees by the 
means of concerted signals agreed upon previous to sail- 
ing, till arrangements are effected with the custom-house 
officers. Smuggling goods or bribing officers in Mexico is 
not usually looked upon with that degree of odium, which 
is common in other countries ; consequently it has been too 
much in practice here for the wholesome administration of 
justice, and the rapid and permanent advancement of the 
country. 

Heretofore, one would imagine that the financial princi- 
ples most attended to and studied here, are no other than for 
the man in office to cheat the Government ; and the latter, 
in turn, by imposing enormous duties, to cheat or rob the 
people. And thus this system of " robbing Peter to pay 
Paul," and " Paul to pay Peter," has been embraced and 
fondled, till the nation is nearly bankrupt, and her life's 
blood is made to flow in the banquet halls of her high offi- 
cials. The great defect in the Mexican government is the 
extension of the right of free suffrage to all classes, with 



52 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

scarcely any limitation, in respect to color, education, or 
property. It is impossible for Mexico to flourish long 
under such auspices ; for the theory or principles of well 
digested governments are scarcely understood by one out of 
five hundred of the entire voting community. Political 
and revolutionary elections are moved and set to the minds 
of the masses, by appeals and prejudices. Where there 
is little or no knowledge among the governed ; where the 
mind roams in a savage state, just above animal instinct ; 
and where mind is scarcely appreciated by a few, even ot 
the community ; the hope of a wholesome government 
organization rests on a basis too futile to be prosperous. 
There is no hope for Mexico to survive for many years to 
come, unless she educates, and this is against her present, 
as it has been against her past, church policy. 

What may be done under new administrations, can be 
but a slight improvement upon the jmst, without the force 
and influence of education. 

In comparison w^ith other favored countries, public 
instruction has received but a small amount of national 
thought or guardianship, within the Republic of Mexico. 
As I have often remarked, forms of outward show, rather 
than the substance of the skeleton, are impressed upon the 
youth of both sexes, which seldom appeal to their reasons 
and their judgments comparatively. Out of a population 
of 8,000,000, it is not presumed by the most discreet Mex- 
ican Officials and Reports that more than one in a hun- 
dred can read, write, and reason* like a Spirit of Intelli- 
gence ; so that from this population, 80,000 may take a rank 
among the intelligent of other countries ; though they usual- 
ly lack that physical courage to effect any great purposes. 
It is reported that the number of scholars in college in the 
State of Mexico is not far from 300 ; in that of La Puebla, 
420 ; in that of Michoacan, 560 ; in that of Guadalajara, 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 53 

720 ; in that of Nuevo Leon, 120 ; in that of Oajaca, 400 ; 
in that of Durango, 200 ; and in that Chiapa, 180 ; and 
with reference to the other States in this respect, I could not, 
nor have I, up to the present period of time, obtained any 
satisfactory information ; though it may be presumed that 
the same ratio would issue, based upon nearly the same 
amount of population, yet this deduction will not always 
hold good in Mexico. 

It is presumed by intelligent Mexicans that three fourths 
of the population have never been ushered into the light 
and influence of a spelling-book ; hence ignorance and stu- 
pidity float in the council halls of the nation. In the city 
of Gaudalajara, there are two scientific and literary acade- 
mies ; that of Sociedad Filvoatrica, and that of Falangede 
Estrudo. From ihe consideration which I have been able 
to take of Mexican Literature, with the narrow means at 
hand, I feel proud to report that great improvements are 
now visible, which have been made within a few years, 
respecting primary and secondary education. The expen- 
ses of public instruction are commonly borne by the State 
Governments and Municipalities ; besides in many of the 
considerable towns, there are schools where the youth are 
taught, not only to read and write, but many of the higher 
branches of a Spanish education. 

In the city of Mexico, there are 129 public establish- 
ments of learning, with 7,200 pupils of both sexes. The 
establishments dedicated to secondary education in this Re- 
pulbic, consist of conciliary seminaries supported and direc- 
ted by the clergy. The colleges and institutes of learning in 
the several States are supported by donation funds settled 
upon them, and by direct appropriations ; and the national 
colleges are also in the same manner ; of that class there 
are ten in the capitals of the bishoprics, and of the latter 
class, there are six in the city of Mexico, viz : San Ilde- 



54 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

fonso, San Gregorio, San Juan de Letran, the School of 
Medicine, the College of Mining, and the Military College ; 
also, three public libraries, viz : that of the Cathedral with 
13,000 volumes and manuscripts; that of the University 
with about 3,000 volumes ; that of San Gregorio with more 
than 11,000 ; and that of San Juan de Letran with about 
11,000 volumes. Of late years some progress in the arts 
and trades has been attained in this Republic ; and in this 
view, painting, lithography, book-binding, sculpture and 
engraving on metals, have received some impetus, noting 
a new era in the national advancement of Mexico ; that 
mechanical industry, in its various departments, has awak- 
ened from its slumbers, and imitating foreign skill impor- 
ted to her shores, it has stamped them upon furniture, 
carriages, and architecture, plating and jewelry. In the 
city of Mexico, there is an Academy of Fine Arts, called 
San Carlos, in honor of Charles III, which sustains a high 
reputation. 

Adios, 

Sefior, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 00 



LETTER X. 

Mode of Travelling in Mexico— Culiacan, the Capital of Cinaloa— Its Importance— 
. rroductions about the Capital— Border and Interior Indians— Yaqui Indians— 
Sj'stem of Slavery— Character of Indian Servants— Peonage Extinct. 

Amigo Mio : — So far as I have traveled or been able 
to gain information of those closely connected with differ- 
ent parts of the country, I shall not restrain myself from 
giving you such particulars as may be of interest. 

The mode of travelling generally in Mexico, is on the 
back of a mule, and little attention is paid to the improve- 
ment of trails, or the making or repairing of roads. Out 
of the city of Mazatlan, there is no road for wagons, carts, 
or carriages, except to the Presidio of Mazatlan, seven 
leagues distant, which fortress is now in ruins. The capi- 
tal of the State of Cinaloa, Cuhacan, is situated on a river 
of the same name, in the midst of a beautiful and rich 
agricultural country. The population of this city is near 
9,000 ; its streets, with a neat Plaza, are laid out regularly, 
and it possesses much inland trade. The mode of archi- 
tecture, or rather, the order, is the same as that of Mazat- 
lan. The Plaza, the murmuring rills, the playful fountains, 
the champaign and mountain scenery, the pines waving 
their green foliage in the gentle breeze, — all conspire to 
commingle with new associations of thought, and impress 
the mind, most vividly, with the beauties and grandeur of 



56 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

nature in this region of country. This city obtains a con- 
siderable importance from being the seat of the State Gov- 
ernment ; and during the session of the Legiskture, it is 
made the resort of old and shrewd politicians, as the 
seats of State Governments are in the United States. 
Where the payment or handling of monies is concerned, I 
must admit that Mexicans are nearly as shrewd and maneu- 
vering politicians, and lay as many foul means to effect their 
political ends, as the broken-down, hag-ridden politicians 
not of, but in the State of California. 

By the way of the trail, the distance from Mazatlan to 
Culiacan is over tw^o hundred miles, and the intervening 
distance between these two cities is rough and mountain- 
ous, and but little of the way is embellished by the hand 
of art in the adjustment and cultivation of ranchos or haci- 
endas. The terms rancho and hacienda are little under- 
stood in the United States ; rancho means the same as a 
farm in the northern States, and hacienda the same as a 
cotton or sugar plantation in the southern States. Cotton, 
sugar, corn, beans, rice, and vegetables of various kinds, 
and fruits common to this climate and a low latitude, are 
grown in great abundance in the vicinity of Culiacan ; 
also mining interests are not neglected. The cultivation 
of cotfee is being introduced into this State ; and it would 
seem to pay well from the fact, that coffee, owing to its 
being prohibited from importation, is worth thirty cents or 
more a pound by the wholesale, and by the retail, fifty cents 
a pound. 

The importation of coffee, like that of sugar, rice, wheat, 
corn, or any of the eatables of life, is forbidden, which one 
would think, might tend to stimulate the agricultural indus- 
try of the country. 

Contemplating, as 1 have been led to make inquiries 
with reference to Indian tribes in this country, the weak- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 57 

ness of the Mexican nation and their want of ability to 
strike terror, fear and respect in the northern and middle 
hordes of Indians, with whom they are living in so close con- 
tact ; — I am informed by an intelligent Mexican that near 
the Gulf of California, and below Guaymas, on el Rio de 
Yaqui, there is a tribe of Indians living, wielding much 
power, who lay an annual tribute upon the Mexicans near 
them, that cultivate their claimed possessions. 

The land on this river is said to be rich, and represented 
to be unequaled, in the State of Sonora, in point of fertil- 
ity, and abundant productions, peculiar to that latitude. 

It is said that these Indians have never been conquered ; 
and consequently look with a savage contempt upon the 
prowess and martial spirit of the Mexicans ; and for many 
years these have ceased to wage war on these Indians, 
with the hope of ultimate success, in the conquest of that 
productive tract of country. Many of them are rich in 
stock and lands, making slaves of a certain caste of their 
own race, like the Hindoos. Slavery does not exist in 
Mexico in the same sense as in the United States, nor does 
peonage as is usually understood ; but public opinion, asso- 
ciations, and a voluntary recognition, on the part of the 
colored race, of their inferiority, from the fact of their 
doing and being coerced by circumstances and long usages, 
to perform menial services, have indelibly stamped them 
as a class wholly distinct from the pure Castilian descen- 
dants. 

To their superiors, these Indians or mixed races seem to 
readily recognize their true and relative position in domes- 
tic avocations, in the same manner as the slaves do at the 
South. When employed by the day, the month, or the 
year, they are treated in the same or worse manner at 
times than the slave, not being allowed any peculiar priv- 
ileges about the house, which a slave, under like circum- 



58 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

stances is not entitled to. By the incessant revolutions in 
this Republic, the ancient system of peonage has become 
extinct ; and consequently, it is a matter of great difficulty 
to carry on an extensive operation of agriculture, as there 
is no dependence to be reposed in retaining this class in 
one's employment, when most needed. They take invari- 
bly the advantage of necessity, and know no bounds to 
their demands for wages, till actual want enforces them 
into a compliance. 

Adios, 

Sefior, 
Agricola, 

ClNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 59 



LETTEE XI. 



Population of Mazatlan—Wealthy Merchants— Kinds of Goods— Characters of dif- 
ferent kinds— City Police— Crimes and Imprisonments— Numher of Persons 
charged with crime per year in the Republic— Different kinds of Crime— Public 
Imprisonments— Discharging Cargoes of Merchandise— Servants called Carga- 
dors. 



Amigo Mio : — 1 am not aware that there is any defi- 
nite mode of arriving at the population of cities, or of 
political divisions in Mexico, as in the United States ; for 
a general census is seldom taken ; therefore the population 
of this country must, to a great extent, rest upon open sup- 
position. The population of the city of Mazatlan is com- 
puted to be 12,000 of all shades; and perhaps, of that 
number, one twelfth is white and can trace their origin 
wholly back to their Spanish ancestors. In this city, there 
are several wealthy merchants of different nations, who 
import goods largely from Europe; and there are also 
Mexican capitalists who have extensive ranches or haci- 
endas in the country, even one hundred miles out, and pass 
a part of their time in town, and a part on their ranches 
or haciendas. English, French and German goods seem 
to be most used, and generally in demand ; and also French 
brandies and wines; but few articles manufactured in the 
United States are shipped into any of the Mexican ports 
on the Pacific. Here I saw professional men, and me- 
chanics, and those of all the common pursuits of life, usu- 
ally assembled in cities ; and none of these I have as yet 



60 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

heard of being particularly distinguished in their peculiar 
avocations for skill or talent ; however, they all seem to 
move along passively and unambitiously, and appear com- 
fortably, — to eat and drink, and breathe air, even not unlike 
a live Yankee. So far as I am able to judge, the munici- 
pal laws and regulations of this city are well digested, 
organized, and executed as effectually, or even more faith- 
fully carried out than is usual for such to be in the United 
States, in cities of the same amount of population. A good 
city police is kept up regularly from nine o'clock at night, 
till twilight the next morning, — and a pleasant quiet and 
stillness prevail, except the watchmen's shrill cry ; which 
adds much to the pleasure of a family residence here. 

Every hour of the night, the watchmen shout and 
exclaim to the full height of their voice : " all is well," and 
thus the city vigilance moves on all night. This, at first, 
seemed intolerable to me, especially, if a brawny watch- 
man took his stand near my window. 

He is armed with a polished musket, having a bayonet 
attached, and is quite firm and determined, as well as 
undaunted, in the nocturnal discharge of his duty. 

During my sojourn of nearly a month in this city, I 
heard of few crimes being committed within its corpor- 
ation. A chain gang is common in most of Mexican cities, 
and is considered a good mode of punishment to prevent 
the commission of crime ; as the public gaze, that frown of 
mankind upon corruption, though corrupt, seldom fails to 
strike a damper in the most hardened criminal, and slowly 
yet steadily subdues that stuborn spirit, which, in a prison 
never can be touched. To increase crime on the contrary, 
confine a criminal after his sentence to a parlor, give him 
wine and brandy, and sumptuous repasts through his friends 
every day ; letting the Grace and Beauty call on him to 
soothe his wounded heart ; and by this means, one who has 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 61 

broken and put at Jiaught the laws of his country, feels him- 
self not degraded by punishment ; and hence punishment 
loses its whole efficacy, — and the moral tone, the spirit of 
society, sinks to common profligacy. 

In lookino; over the criminal statistics of Mexico, I find 
about twenty-one thousand five hundred and five persons 
charged with crimes and taken to prison annually ; or near 
one to every four hundred of the entire population ; of 
whom four thousand nine hundred and forty-four have 
commonly been set at liberty on prelimmary trials ; seven 
thousand eight hundred and fifty sentenced according to 
their crimes ; one hundred and twenty-one sent to their re- 
spective quarters ; eight thousand five hundred and ninety 
stood ex-acorda, that is, without decisions ; and from the 
whole numbers, six thousand and seventeen were arraigned 
for quarrels ; three thousand and ninety-seven for drun- 
kenness ; one thousand one hundred and thirty-eight for 
vagrancy ; two thousand eight hundred and ninety-two for 
violating police laws ; seven hundred and twenty-six for 
incontinence ; one hundred and eighty-one for wounding 
others; two hundred and forty-one for swindling; three 
hundred and eighty -nine for suspicion ; one hundred and 
twenty-one for rape ; one hundred and forty as fugitives 
from justice ; two hundred and thirty for homicide ; twenty- 
seven as false coiners ; twenty-two for pandering ; forty for 
adultery ; and five hundred and eleven for carrying arms. 
This information I have given as I read and heard it ; 
however, it would seem to me from the perusal of the news- 
paper calendar, that the aforesaid number, per year, would 
greatly fall short of the actual per centage iu the commis- 
sion of crime. 

My object in this tour is to notice and record incidents 
which may have a tendency to illustrate and demonstrate 
more fully the habits, manners, customs, laws and usages, 



62 TRAVELS OX THE TTESTERN SLOPE 

in different parts of the western portion of Mexico, Amigo, 
than is commonly read from casual observation ; and this 
too, without prejudice against, or bias in favor of, this 
people. Public improvements are not considered of much 
consequence here, except those tending absolutely to shel- 
ter or protect. 

No wharves are built out into the harbor to facilitate the 
disembarkation of goods ; however, two have been begun, 
but want of the spirit prevented any considerable extension. 
The manner of discharging cargoes arriving in the differ- 
ent Mexican ports on the Pacific, is to make use of a lighter 
as for as practicable, for the water near the beach is shoaL 
Then the goods are packed out of the lighter by servants 
called cargadors, into a reception or government store 
house for inspection. And from this, they are taken to the 
consignees in different parts of the city ; though not till the 
duty is paid, according to agreement or consular valuation. 
Adios, 
Seiior, 

Agricola. 

CiNClNNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 63 



LETTER XIl. 



Indian Cai'gadoi's, their Saddles for Packing, tlieli' Strength, Patience and Endur- 
ance—Mixed Castes— Influence of Religion upon the Indians— Arrival and 
Treatment of Americans— Their objects of Exploration and fcettlement. 



Amigo Mio- — These servants called cargadors, are In- 
dians or mixed breed; and but little or no difference can I 
see in the color of these Indians and those further north. 
Often have I been surprised to see the burdens which these 
cargadors could sustain and walk under ; I have been told 
that some of them could carry four hundred, and even six 
hundred pounds, a short distance. In carrying these heavy 
burdens, these cargadors make use of a kind of saddle, con- 
sisting of a pliable pad, eighteen inches long, five inches in 
diameter, and with the form roundish and rather lanceolate. 
To both ends there is attached an Agave band, near three 
inches wide, which resembles hemp ; this band is just long 
enough to let the pad fall and rest on the shoulder, — the 
band extending over the forehead. The cargador, with a 
load on his shoulders, usually walks half stooped, throwing 
the burden wholly on the pad. These servants seemed to 
be possessed of great muscular strength, and of a hardy en- 
durance, living in a manner to awaken our sympathy, not- 
withstanding they are clearly working out a manifest des- 
tiny. I saw them carry so much even, that their legs 
would seem to half bend under the weight, as they walked 



64 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

along near me ; and in this condition, they appeared patient, 
caring to save onlj a little for the morrow. From my own 
observation, I should judge them much more patient in en- 
during service for others than the Indians of the north. The 
Indians of the cities are mixed more with the white race, 
than those inhabiting the mountains ; however, many full 
blooded Indians live in the towns, and usually perform all 
menial service. The mixed are mechanics of various kinds 
and perform labor requiring more skill and a greater exer- 
cise of reason. Masonry seems to be better understood 
than mechanism, and in the construction of arches, pil- 
lars, and columns, I saw numerous instances of their 
predilection in this respect. It may, however, result from 
an innate principle to imitate the peculiarity of many of 
their partial Moorish ancestors. Without doubt, these In- 
dians are descendants of the Aztec race, who, long before 
the conquest, had spread themselves over much of Mexico ; 
and, though the bonds of civilization have been thrown 
around them for more than three hundred years, with Chris- 
tian grace and teachings, they seem not to have profited 
much by example, or under such influences. This part, or 
the Indian character as seen in Mexico where I have trav- 
eled, will be touched upon more fully in other and my con- 
cluding remarks. 

During my stay at the European Hotel in Mazatlan, 
several intelligent Americans arrived from San Francisco, 
and remained there a few days. They were received and 
treated with courtesy and attention, far more than is com- 
mon for Americans to extend to foreigners. Americans 
think too much of that Almighty dollar, to pause and no- 
tice even general courtesy, till they go to foreign lands and 
are there taught to blush at their own perverse selfishness. 
This, however, may be greatly owing to the intellectual 
peculiarity of their own natural organization. This na- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 65 

tioiial characteristic I should not have mentioned, did I not 
feel forced to, knowing with how much indifference foreign- 
ers, especially Mexicans, are looked upon in the United 
States, by too large a class of my countrymen, in the way 
of awarding to Mexican gentlemen the palm of true polite- 
ness and forbearance, and that of suppressing in themselves 
a revenging temper when Americans travel in their country. 
The Americans alluded to, came hither with the express 
intention of penetrating Lower California and the State of 
Sonora, to discover more particularly and geologically the 
mineral wealth in those regions, and to settle in some part of 
the country they intended to explore, purchasing a rancho 
or hacienda,i^ found practicable, and the inducements strong 
enough to remain in the country, and the security of life 
and property, to all appearance, sufficiently guaranteed. 
Adios, 

Sefior, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



66 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTEB Xm. 

liepeal of Old La-ns by Comonfort, and the Privileges thereby gained for Foreign- 
ers— Militia of the Country, and its effect— Gen. Castro of ilonterey, State of 
Cal.— Obstinacy of t)ie presiding Governor, Blancarte— Public Schools. 

Amigo Mio — Under the administration of Comonfort, 
old laws disqualifying foreigners from holding real estate 
have been repealed, and new ones passed, allowing them 
without taking the oath of allegiance^^to hold such property, 
and be protected in the free use of it, in the same manner 
as native Mexicans. Foreigners who have not taken the 
oath of allegiance, have, in this respect, more guaranteed 
advantages than the Mexicans themselves ; for the former 
do not, by living out of their respective native countries, 
forfeit their i:)roiection, and consequently, in case of revolu- 
tions, if their property be seized by the government they 
can appeal to their respective countries through their sev- 
eral ministers, for indemnification. This repeal and pro- 
tection, will have a tendency of the utmost importance to 
resuscitate the country, and introduce a new and important 
system of agricukure, 

"With reference to the militia of the country, I was informed 
that a few companies of soldiers are stationed at the garri- 
son in Mazatlan, and most of the gentlemen with whom I 
have chanced to converse in this respect, look witli a jeal- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 67 

ous eye and indifference upon the Mexican regulars, as tak- 
ing the country together, too large a number by far, for 
the nation to sustain. 

By good authority, I have been informed that forty thous- 
and regulars, with the different grades of officers, are en- 
rolled in the Republic of Mexico, to perform military ser- 
vice when called into the field ; which military power and 
armanent would impoverish and bankrupt a prosperous and 
flourishing nation ; hence what will be the consequence of 
such an army preying upon the vitals of Mexico ? 

Recently, I have made the acquaintance of Gen. Castro, 
of Monterey, in the State of California, and also his pri- 
vate secretary. It appears from his own statement, and 
that of highly respectable gentlemen of this city, that the 
President, Gen. Comonfort, appointed, through favor. Gen. 
Castro, Governor of Lower California, not long since, and 
in Jan., 1856, he came down to this city, intending to go over 
to La Paz, the seat of government of Lower California, and 
assume the reins of government. In this respect he has 
found himself considerably foiled, and, perhaps, entirely de- 
feated in that object ; for the acting Governor of Lower 
California is an ambitious and go-ahead man, who, having 
risen from the trade of a common hatter, within a few years, 
to his present condition, would not be found willing to yield 
his position of honor, and the easy means of accumulating 
wealth, without an effort to retain it, and prejudice the 
Lower Californians against Castro. Therefore Gen. Cas- 
tro has recently written to the Mexican Government, at the 
city of Mexico, touching the course he should pursue, and 
the means he should use to obtain his new appointment. 
As yet I have not been informed as to the result of the con- 
test of these two gentlemen to the government of Lower 
California. 

In the city of Mazatlan, with a population of 12,000 souls. 



68, TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

I have seen or heard of few schools for either sex ; and it 
is truly painful to a mind accustomed to contemplate the 
advantages lloAving from the reception of a liberal educa- 
tion in the United States ; and that this is not, bj any 
means, confined to the rich, to the sons nor the daughters, 
but is common to all who will— to see here man, noble by 
nature, so little cultivated. In passing several school hous- 
es during my sojourn in this city, I have noticed many of 
the young in attendance, and that one of the chief require- 
ments in teaching is that of religious exercise, so that the 
pupils can perform with grace and ease the simple evolu- 
tions characteristic of the expression of Catholic faith. 
Adios, 

Senor, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OP THE MEXICAN COEDILLEKA. 69 



LETTEK XIV. 



Going to Church of a Sunday Morning— Devotion of Mexican Ladies, and the In 
difference of tlie opposite Sex thereto— Lent— Last day of Lent— Eeligious Pro • 
cessions— Spectators— Eules for Americans In Foreign Countries— Close of Lent. 



Amtgo Mio : — Often have I been amused in going near 
and attending church of a bright Sunday morning, and also 
feast days, to see the sexes pass me by, on to the temple of 
their God, and divide off, before entering, as if by natural 
impulses. While the fair sex trip along with downcast 
eyes and solemn countenances, to the sacred shrine, to dip 
the curved finger in the holy water, and cross their fore- 
heads, typic of their faith ; to ask there of the holy Fathers 
forgiveness of the past, and offer up a simple prayer in be- 
half of their friends and themselves, the sterner sex have 
taken their position, to behold youth and beauty gracefully 
glide by them, as they pass out homeward, from the old 
church, renovated, w4th a light step, a joyful heart, and a 
countenance exempt from care. 

This habit of gentlemen taking their position outside of 
the church, who should regard gallantry and the grace which 
adorn the fair sex, and walk, in like cases, in company with 
ladies to show them a due respect and courtesy, I cannot 
but condemn as mischievous and impertinent. 

The last three days of Lent are faithfully observed, busi- 



70 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

ness of most all kinds being suspended by law during these 
days, and devotions and processions assume its stead, in a 
solemn and imposing form. Yet I am not aware that these 
ceremonials could, to any extent, sway me while my mind 
is open to reason and the free exercise of common sense. 
During this period the stores and government houses are 
closed ; and for a week previous new dresses for ladies are 
purchased and made up, to wear in celebration upon this 
occasion. It is considered at this time a want of respect to 
wear an old dress ; and consequently a lady would exert 
herself much to be in possession of this most desirable con- 
sideration. In this respect merchants, where there is 
wealth in the cities, reap no small benefits. At this time 
the ladies and the Indians go to church, attending devotion 
much more than the gentlemen ; and in fact, it is but sel- 
dem that I have seen any of the gentlemen in church. 
Though I am not aware that I can reasonably assign any 
cause for this want of devotion in the Mexican gentleman, 
yet it is possible that they think for themselves in matters 
of piety and reason. 

The last day of Lent is celebrated at evening with a great 
procession, carrying candles three feet long, images, and 
symbols, typic of, and peculiar to Catholicism ; and these 
are most commonly borne along the streets by mixed colors. 
In the seaport towns few of either sex, of the pure Castil- 
ian origin, I am told, walk in these processions. The Fa- 
ther of the church walks along in the procession under a 
canopy of silk, sustained by four attendants, attired for the 
occasion, and himself clad in priesthood costume, with a 
long and flowing gown, and a crown upon his head. In 
advance of this procession a band of church musicians 
march and play a solemn air, which is remarkably adapted 
to fascinate and impress the ignorant with awe and rever- 
ence, and with the mystic forms of sacerdotal power. The 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 71 

house-tops, balconies, and all convenient places along the 
streets, are crowded with the gay, the young, the beautiful, 
and sensible, and with the gentlemen now in attendance 
upon them, to observe this religious procession, the closing 
scene of Lent. As it passed I raised my hat respectfully, 
as courtesy to this foreign people seemed to demand it, and 
as it would have appeared exceedingly discourteous to them 
for me not to have complied with so simple a requirement 
of their order of faith. 

In foreign countries, and surrounded by foreign influen- 
ces, Americans should observe to do as the better class do, 
on such occasions as emanate from religious worship, with- 
out the sacrifice of conscience ; and they would thereby 
avoid difficulties and distrust, and demand that respect even 
by courtesy, which is much to be desired in a distant land. 

The next morning at 8 o'clock, images of Judas Iscariot 
being suspended in various parts of the city, clad in the 
garb of betrayal, and filled with a bountiful and unmistaka- 
ble supply of powder, they were, at a given signal of the 
church bell exploded, all at the same time, which produced 
a shout of rejoicing throughout the city, the consummation 
of Lent ; and then the daily avocations of all classes were 
resumed with good cheer and a free conscience, and seem- 
ingly with redoubled activity. 
Adios, 

Sefior, 

Agricola, 

CiNCINNATUS. 



72 TRAVELS OX THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XV 



Feelings of Mexican Gentlemen to■v^^T^cls Americans— Their desire to knoiv better 
the La-R-s and concernments of the United States of America— Their Impression 
of the Public Schools in the United States, and of the Improvements and Ad- 
vancements generally — Their Complexion, Manners, Customs, and Moralit}-— 
Mexican Gamblers— The American Gambler fined— His Hardihood. 



Amigo Mio : — It is the impression in the United States 
since the war with Mexico, that Mexicans entertain no good 
feeling towards Americans, but a spirit of implacable hatred 
and enmity ; however, Mexican gentlemen and officers both 
civil and military, so far as I am able to discover and judge, 
rather dispel this impression by their open, frank, and gen- 
erous treatment towards Americans of good and reputable 
character, coming among them. Notwithstanding, in some 
parts, I have observed an impression somewhat departing 
from this ; — but generally it is engendered by the irregu- 
larities of Americans traveling and residing in the country. 
Such Mexican gentlemen as I have just mentioned, endeavor 
to acquaint themselves with the aifairs and politics of en- 
lightened nations, their laws and customs, their usages and 
judicial decisions upon important questions ; and they even 
become quite inquisitive for information, touching the policy 
of the United States Government, the nature and bearings 
of its constitution ; and also, the numerous characteristics 
of the constitutions of States, and of the institutions which 
prevail in the great confederacy of States. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 73 

They think that our great social and common school sys- 
tem of education throughout the Union, the palladium of 
liberty, the safeguard of man's dearest heritages, life, liberty, 
and conscience, is the wonder and admiration of the enlight- 
ened, and the the terror of the ignorant, and as near com- 
plete as human nature can conceive. They are not slow 
in applauding us for our numerous institutions of learning 
both civil and military, and concede to us the pre-eminence 
of our statesmen and orators, and the ability and penetra- 
tion of our capatalists and merchants. They even enlarge 
upon our internal improvements, and speak of the applica- 
tion of steam-power to navigation, rail-roads, and the pur- 
poses of manufacturing, and of the invention of the telegraph, 
with rapture and zeal, wishing that, at no distant day, their 
own country might rise to similar importance. In their 
manners, this class of gentlemen are bland and affable, and 
would command the highest consideration of Americans, did 
they but feel to know each other better. This class have 
fair complexions, and are quite active in business pursuits. 
In their habits they are temperate both as to eating and 
drinking. 'During a month's stay in the city of Mazatlan, 
I do not remember of having seen a drunken Mexican of 
the least pretension to associate in good society ; and this 
I attribute to the great use made of wine among them. 
Strong drinks are seldom used, for the climate being mild, 
does not seem to require the use of them. Wines are set 
on the table both at breakfast and dinner ; though claret is 
most freely used, at all times. 

With regard to the morality of Mexican gentlemen, I 
can really see no difference between them and the same 
class of Americans, only the latter are not so open, but con- 
ceal much more of what they think or do than the former. 
These gentlemen are of medium size, intelligent, easy and 
affable in their external deportment, and generally make 
*c 



74 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

a pleasing and lasting impression, Gambling among them, 
may be practiced to some extent ; but it is done in the way 
of amusement and recreation, — not for the petty object of 
gain. I am told that there are professional gamblers here, 
who are well known, marked out, and shunned by the better 
and best class in society, in the same manner as in other 
polished and enlightened countries. Those who came on 
the Arizona at the time of my coming, were known and 
marked out, ere they had been in the city an hour ; and 
before a week had elapsed, one of them had his money, to 
the amount of one hundred dollars, seized by the police- 
man, when on the table ; for even here it is against the law 
to gamble ; however it is persisted and adventured in se- 
cretly, as if within the prison walls of some strong fortress. 

The whole amount belonging to this gambler was liable 
to forfeiture, and himself to a heavy fine ; however, he was 
fined ten dollars only, without forfeiture, through respect to 
Americans. It would have been truly amusing to me to 
have seen him sentenced and put in the chain gang, clean- 
ing the streets and laboring for the public good, because of 
his hardihood and impudence in a foreign country ; taking 
the responsibility of breaking the laws made for the sup- 
pression of vice and crime, and the security of domestic 
firesides. 

Adios, 

Sefior, 

Ageicola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OP THE MEXCIAN CORDILLERA. 75 



LETTER XVI. 



Hours of Business in Mazatlan— Ladies, their Complexion, Manners, Education, 
Cliaracter— Their Marriages to Foreigners— Their Morality and the Sympathy- 
received in certain cases— Characters of the Mixed Castes generally— Their 
Wages— Effect of Politicians upon them— Their Predisposition for a Town Life- 
Peculiar Content of all Classes. 



Amigo Mio : — With reference to the hours of business, 
seldom much is done before eight or nine o'clock in the 
morning, and it is pursued quietly, till five o'clock in the 
afternoon ; though generally with advantage and success. 
I have seen many ladies of a fine hlond color, descendants 
of the old Castilians. Many of them, to my surprise, have 
blue eyes, auburn hair, and rosy cheeks. Their forms are 
delicate, possessing small hands and wrists, tapering arms, 
small feet 'and ankles, rosy lips, small mouth, white teeth 
well arranged, usually in due proportion, black and blue 
eyes, black, auburn, and red hair, straight and acquiline 
noses, and finally, rather short of stature. Their move- 
ments and walk are usually attended with ease and grace, 
though they may not be able to read or write. The in- 
struction of the female sex is, I am told, most shamefully 
neglected ; for the largest portion of them is far from hav- 
ing received the first rudiments of a Spanish education. 
Notwithstanding, they are affable, some of them naturally 



76 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

intelligent, and most of them command respect and courtesy 
from strangers, because of their natural goodness of heart, 
and being ever ready to perform good offices to their fellow- 
beings. They seem to be more plausible and kinder to 
strangers than the gentlemen usually are ; — and this may 
be accounted for, from the fact that many have married 
foreigners, who are found to be more attentive to their 
wants, and better providers than the Mexican gentlemen 
themselves. 

Several Mexican ladies in Mazatlan are married to for- 
eigners, and are rearing healthful and happy families. 
They appear to live happily and quietly, having a kind 
and sympathetic respect for each other. So far as I am 
able to judge, the female character among the better class 
of Mexican ladies, assumes the same high tone for purity 
and morality, that it does among our own fair sex, in the 
United States. I am ever happy to advocate the morality 
of the female character, in whatsoever region I may see the 
representatives of it, — though I should not, had I no just 
reason to predicate my position upon ; for every one should 
have justice awarded in proportion to merit and durable 
worth. It is not my impression that when a Mexican lady 
departs from the path of virtue and rectitude, her own sex 
heap upon her that scorn, abuse, forgetfulness, and utter 
contempt, that is so common among our own country la- 
dies! They seem to weigh the scale of humanity, and pause, 
and think, ere they too hastily act wholly to the ruin of 
others ! They sympathise with her upon her fallen condi- 
tion, buoying up her wounded pride, and alFording her 
many kind otRces and a chance for repentance and recog- 
nition into tlie sacred bands of society. This practice ap- 
pears, most assuredly, more Christian-like ; though it should 
emanate from a horde of barbarians. The lower class of 
the community being Indians, and some of a mixed breed 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 77 

and formerly Indian Peones, without any advantages but 
what nature has given them ; nothing can be expected of 
them on the score of morality, and it would now really be 
a wonder to me, if they are much in advance of the Aztecs 
or other Indian tribes of this country, at the time of the 
conquest. This caste now perform the labors, both in the 
house and in the field ; however, they are free, laboring 
for whom they please. The males get eight dollars a 
month, out of which they board and lodge themselves ; the 
females perform the labors within, most commonly such as 
washing and other menial services, for the wealthier classes 
of the community. These Indians seem to be happy and 
content, till aroused to assume a more prominent standing 
by promises of wealth and preferment from those plebeian 
or patrician politicians, who infest this distracted country 
like vultures, if they will espouse their cause — their work 
of reformation — and bear arms under their sacred banners, 
until that reformation is complete, and they are installed 
into the richest and most potent offices of State. Then 
these promises, in part, still continue to be promises ;. and 
the Indians would have been much better off had they re- 
mained at home, living upon a most scanty allowance of 
beef, and corn-cakes, with some Chili pepper, and having 
only a blanket to shield them from the northern blast ! 
They prefer a town life to that of the bracing air of the 
country, though they might raise an abundance there, and 
live in princely luxury, were they industrious like those 
who settled on Pilgrim Rock. I have often smiled to pass 
the houses of this class in Mexico, and looking in, to see 
their neatness and contented dispositions, so well adapted to 
this low state, when comparing them and their condition, 
in mind, with other more favored countries. All classes 
in the body politic, seem to a stranger, passive and capable 



78 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

of enduring great privations ; and when in affluence, tliey 
do not appear to be puffed up by the follies of fortune — ar- 
rogance and vanity. 

Adios, 

Sefior, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 79 



LETTER XVII. 



Barron and Foi'bes— Their Banishment from Tepic— Their reputed Policy and Ad- 
herence to tlie Santa Anna Partj^— Their Manners and Characters. 



Amigo Mio : — Among the gentlemen acquaintances I 
have made at Mazatlan, there are two prominent charac- 
ters — Barron and Forbes — the former the English consul, 
and the latter the American Consul at Tepic, sixty miles 
inland from San Bias. These gentlemen figure largely in 
the political and financial atmosphere of Mexico ; and of 
course, they are consequently sometimes in the minority, 
when they must expect a reaction in their disfavor, in a 
country so often distracted by intestine commotion, which 
enkindles and makes more acute their financial acumen. 
If I mistake not in the date of the month, these Consuls 
were, last December, 1855, banished from Tepic by the 
Castanos or Comonfort party. This party are at swords' 
point with that of Santa Anna, and consequently, retaliate 
in the same manner that they have been imposed upon in 
times past. The house of Barron and Forbes takes the lead 
in the support of Santa Anna's party at Tepic ; and it has 
been frequently said, though with how much truth I can- 
not state, that, in a commercial and financial view, they 
bear a predominent sway to the injury of other minor es- 
tablishments. 

Being obnoxious to the Comonfort or Castanos party. 



80 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

and having attempted to ship a large amount of silver out 
of the country, without paying the customary duty, as re- 
ported by this party, — it was deemed prudent and neces- 
sary to rid Tepic of these two officials. It is further said 
that there were seven Consulates at Tepic lodged in the 
house of Barron and Forbes, and that they made each 
Consulate operate to the disadvantage of the other party's 
interest. This is one side of the ease, which caused the 
banishment of these two officials ; and the other is, that 
the present ruling party at Tepic desired to persecute 
them through envy, and because of their adherance to 
Santa Anna's party, and on account of their immense wealth 
and influence. Notwithstanding these reports, I am much 
pleased to have formed the acquaintance of these gentlemen, 
who, I have been informed, were born in this Republic, 
and are of Scottish extraction. 

They are courteous and bland in their manners, intelli- 
gent and affable ; and I have found them ever ready to be 
the medium of communicating information upon subjects 
touching the political and physical condition of the country. 
For my part, I could see nothing about them, which is not 
in the strictest rules of propriety, and of good will to 
others. It is perfectly natural for a man of wealth and in- 
fluence to have enemies in every clime, and for him to es- 
pouse the side of politics, by the means of which he can 
advance his own interest, in the most rapid manner ; and 
as a matter of course, he must meet with political oppo- 
nents, and those engaged in similar pursuits. And thus, 
men use men when in their power, and thus nations, too 
often, wage wars for sordid ends. 
Adios, 

Sefior, 

Agricola. 

CiNClNNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 81 



LETTEE XVIII. 



Influence of the U. S. Squadron upon Mazatlan, and the Mexican Pacific Coast, 
after taking possession of this portion, and coasting along— The just Polic}' pur- 
sued by the United States at Mazatkm during tliis period— Its Efil'ect— Dread of 
the Americans leaving— Tlieir Departure— Americans Incurring Misusage. 



Amigo Mio :-^During the Mexican war, while the 
Americans held possession of Mazatlan, from the eleventh 
of November 1847, till the close of hostilities, — peace, 
plenty and a good administration of the laws reigned here 
under the influence of the United States' squadron, which 
consisted of the frigates Independence, Congress and 
Cyane, and the transport Iris, — under the command of 
Commodore Shrubrick, afterwards relieved by Commodore . 
Jones, who arrived in the Ohio of seventy four guns. 
Mazatlan at this time, was under the command of Col. 
Tellez, a Mexican officer ; but not having a sufficient force 
to retain his position, he evacuated the city and left it to 
protect itself the best it could, on being summoned to sur- 
render at eight o'clock the eleventh of November by Com- 
modore Shrubrick. Terms of capitulation and surrender 
were agreed upon at one o'clock P. M., of the same day, 
when five hundred marines with one hundred soldiers and 
four pieces of artillery, composed the division that took 
possession and occupied Mazatlan, without the semblance 
of opposition ; and the next day all the hills and eminences 



d 



82 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

commanding the road to the interior, they seized and 
strengthened with heavy ordinance. 

Afterwards some shght skirmishes occurred between 
the Americans and ISIexicans not far from the city, but of 
no great advantage or consequence to either party. The 
frigate Congress and sloop of war Portsmouth, under the 
command of Capt. Lavallette, had taken Guaymas on the 
twentieth of October, after a severe fire, continuing nearly 
an hour, doing considerable damage to the town, and killing 
and wounding a number of M(?xicans. The American 
squadron under Commodore Shrubrick, and afterwards, 
Commodore Jones, blockaded and occupied all the Mexican 
towns of any importance in the Gulf of California, and on 
the Pacific coast, from October 1847 till the termination 
of the Mexican war. A military Governor, custom house 
officers, and other subordinate officials were appointed at 
Mazatlan by the Commodore, and every precaution re- 
quired with reference to the distribution of justice and a 
due execution of the laws made for the public good, which 
wisdom and discretion under the peculiar circumstances of 
holding a conquered city, could reasonably suggest, was 
resorted to, and duly exercised on this occasion. In front 
of the town there was always a portion of the squadron to 
act in concert with the force on land, and this had the de- 
sired eflxict to preserve good order in the city. I have 
been told by good authority, that the period of the Amer- 
icans holding possession of the city was that of almost ab- 
solute peace, which inspired the community with energy 
and renewed activity. Foreign duties were greatly di- 
minished, and those inland were expunged from the code 
of the municipal laws. Fair prices were paid for all the 
provisions and necessaries re(prircd by the Americans, 
while here in sovereignty, — and strict justice to native 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 83 

Mexicans, as well as to American marines and soldiers, 
was equally administered, without favor or solicitation. 

When peace was declared in the year 1848, and the 
Americans were about to leave the town and let the for- 
mer laws and regulations with all their iron rigor, assume 
their wonted sway ; there was in this foreign community a 
spirit of regret, which arose in rebuke of their exit. As 
the marines and soldiers, with their respective officers, 
were leaving the fort and marching to the water's edge for 
embarkation, and the military about to be exchanged for 
the civil authority ; the porticos, the house-tops, and every 
place presenting to the eye a sight, were occupied by the 
old and the young, the fair and the homely, the beautiful 
and the ugly, the maimed and the blind, the wise and the 
ignorant, to catch a farewell glance at the conservators of 
peace as they marched near them, playing that commemo- 
rative air — '■' Sweet Home ! " 

Then the white handkerchief was gracefully waved in 
token of regret, and a silent tear graced the flushed cheek, 
in consummation of this departing scene. During my 
stay in this city, I have been treated with as much atten- 
tion and courtesy as a foreigner could expect, and as much 
as one should desire. It is my impression that Americans 
too frequently incur misusage in this strange country, by 
their own bad conduct, and the usual contempt they enter- 
tain for the Mexican institutions and regulations of Gov- 
ernment. 

Adios, 

Senor, 
. Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



84 TEAVELS ON THE TTESTEKN SLOPE 



LETTER XIX. 

Customs of Ladies and Gentlemen— Their Dress— Vigilance over Young Ladies—' 
Their Marriage— Their Walking in the Streets— Their Manner of Shopping- 
Amusement at Night— Masquerade Ball and the Police ahout the Doors- 
Amusements for Gentlemen. 

Amigo Mio : — The manners and customs of ladies and 
gentlemen are quite different in Mexico from those of 
Americans in the United States. They rise and retire late, 
have coffee or chocolate early in the morning, breakfast 
usually at ten A. M., dine at five in the afternoon, and close 
their day's repasts by taking tea, coffee or chocolate at eight 
o'clock in the evening. They are rather sedate at meals, 
than loquacius like the French. They are polite, courte- 
ous and affable, when properly introduced to ; though fre- 
quently, I have met them accidentally, without the formal- 
ities of introduction, and found in them a warm response, 
quite different from the calculating JEnglishman or Scotch- 
man. Gentlemen dress mostly after the American or 
French style ; and within the tropics commonly wear 
whitish or brownish hats, which do not so much attract the 
sun's scorching rays. Ladies dress somewhat after the 
American and French style ; though they do not generally 
lace 90 much as the former, neither do they wear, when 
they go out into the streets, b6nnets ; but in their stead, 
they gracefully throw over their head and shoulders los 
rehozos, wliich rather look uniquely, as they trip along the 
streets, especially to foreigners not having seen this pecu- 
liar Spanish costume. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 85 

It is not customary for ladies to ride out in company 
with gentlemen as elsewhere, nor do they go out at all with 
strangers, that is, persons not members of the family, with- 
out the protection of some one of their own near relatives, 
or a watchful old matron. In addressing a lady with inten- 
tion of matrimony, it is necessary for the gentleman to do 
this homage in the presence of the mother, or some shrewd 
and eagle-eyed member of the family, who usually remains 
in the parlor or sitting room, pretending to be busily 
engaged about nothing, but watches most unobservingly, 
during the gentleman's suspicious attendance. When this 
watchful courtship ends, having been as closely besieged 
and guarded as some old castle fortress, the bands of mat-- 
rimony are published in the church, making known the vic- 
tory, and that objections may be raised. When the wed- 
ding day is set, the Padre attired in ecclesiastical power and 
purity of conscience, comes and officiates at this festal 
scene, with large expectations, if the parties are rich, not 
in the spirit of catholic faith, but in the emhezzlement of 
^ealth. It is not customary for ladies to walk out much 
1 the streets, nor go out expressly to purchase goods. 

In case of their wanting goods, dresses and the like, they 
send their servants to the stores, who request the clerks to 
repair to their houses, or send samples of what they want 
till they are suited, and then they pay for the articles pur- 
chased. This practice, by American ladies, who are ever 
too fond of shopping and walking in the streets, might be 
considered rather idle, frivolous, and prudish, yet it is quite 
the usage among the better class of ladies in the Republic, 
and undoubtedly derived its origin from oriental customs. 
Most of the exercise the Mexican ladies take is confined 
to within their court-yards, which are, not uncommonly, 
quite beautiful, and on the plaza at night, when the sky is 
clear and starry, and the air cool and bracing. As in the 



86 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

United States and most of European countries, it is here 
deemed vulgar, and generally, servant-like, to be seen walk- 
ing in the streets ; therefore, in this respect, ladies seem to 
foreio-ners to have exercised over themselves a fastidious 

o 

guardianship. The houses, for the most, are kept close 
during the day, and ventilated early in the evening or at 
night. At this time of the day in tropical countries, there 
is much social amusement. 

Balls and evening parties and dinners, are quite common 
in Mazatlan, and I have been much rejoiced to see the gay- 
ety and life manifested on such occasions. Shortly after 
my arrival in this city, I attended a masquerade ball at the 
French Hotel, where I have remained since my disem- 
barkation. This ball was composed of near fifty couple and 
a goodly number of spectators, among whom I was ; they 
had passable music, a rich repast at twelve o'clock, and 
then resumed the dance till broad day-light. Several 
policemen were stationed about the house to preserve good 
order, — and the head of the city police was in attendance 
at the ball, clad in his insignia of office, a military coat and 
hat with a sword suspended by his side. This gentleman 
outwardly appeared easy, courteous and affable, and com- 
mingled with the party as if he was not distinguished by 
any official capacity. 

Fishing, hunting, and other amusements are frequently 
resorted to, as pastime and relaxation from business 
among gentlemen of leisure. Horse-racing and bull-light- 
ing are not forgotten as existing among their old usages ; 
nor is cock-fighting by the most humble sahits. Dice and 
chess are common games in the higher circle ; so are bil- 
liards and nine-pins. 

Adios, 

Sefior, 

AiiKICUJ.A. 

ClNCINNATUS. 



OP THE MEXICAN COEDILLERA. 87 



LETTER XX. 

Mazatlan, a point for Whalers—Light Tonnage Dues—Whalmg Ground about the 
Cape and on the coast— Fresh Provisions easily obtained at Mazatlan— Captain 
of a Whaler in the Port, and the ease of Obtaining men for a Cruise— Peculiarity 
of Mexicans in this respect. 

Amigo Mio :— As yet, I have omitted to mention the 
city of Mazatlan as a practicable point for many of the 
American whalers to get recruits of fresh provisions, and 
men also, who might be well adapted to this arudous, daring, 
and laborious pursuit. This mixed caste of Indians, ne- 
gros and whites, are very patient, nearly as much so as the 
negro himself, and many of them near the sea-ports are 
enured from long habits to the water, the use of boats, and 
also diving, which last feat they can perform with as much 
ease, grace and suppleness of motion, as the natives of the 
Hawaiian Islands. 

Of late, and that too with a careful foresight, the Mexi- 
can law with reference to port and tonnage dues, has been 
repealed under the auspices of Comonfort ; and since 
which, any foreign vessels, coming into any of the Mexican 
ports on the Pacific, are placed on a similar footing with 
those bearing the national flag, except they are debarred 
the privilege of the coast trade, that is, carrying the natural 
or received productions or commodities from one Mexican 
port to another. This policy is really inviting to foreign 
vessels, especially those whalers which may be out near 



88 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Cape St. Lucas or in that region at sea, on their whaling 
ground. Off the coast of Lower Cahfornia and the upper 
Pacific coast of Mexico, whalers have, for a few years past, 
done as well as in many other regions of the west Pacific ; 
and their success is constantly on the increase, which being 
the case ; and whalers for more than a year have fallen 
off from getting their recruits in Honolulu, owing to the 
high price of provisions and other necessaries, and also the 
heavy discounts on whalers' bills. In the district of Mazat- 
lan, fresh provisions being readily raised and brought into 
the city, to supply any demand ; men not accustomed to 
high wages, but servile in their general characteristics, being 
quickly engaged ; and above all, there being good and sub- 
stantial commercial houses, upon which bills of exchange 
could be readily drawn for New York or Boston : all these 
enumerated considerations presented in favor of Mazatlan, 
with due deference to the opinions of gentlemen better 
schooled in this pursuit than myself, I submit for perusal, 
and what you, amigo, may think them worth. Though I 
cannot dismiss this subject without hoping they may meet 
with a most careful examination by those interested most 
directly, that the best interest of Mexico and the United 
States may thereby be greatly promoted and enlarged. 

During my sojourn in the city, a whaler put into the outer 
harbor and sent a long boat with the second mate to dis- 
cover the nature of the port laws ; — and finding the port 
charges comparatively notliing, he put into the inner har- 
bor, anchored, was boarded by the custom-house ofiicers 
merely through form, got some fresh supplies, and readily 
shipped four Mexicans on a whaling cruise, with as much 
ease and as little delay, as in New Bedford harbor. The 
Captain informed me that he had had such men in his em- 
ploy, and that they readily rendered him most important 
service on the whaling ground. 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 89 

This caste being so addicted to the game of chance in 
their social amusements, and for the purpose of gain also, it 
would seem to lead to an easy conviction in the minds of 
any one acquainted with their peculiar characteristics, that 
there never would be any difficulty in procuring any num- 
ber of such men, at most any time ; more especially, as 
their living on board is necessarily found them, which, with 
this caste, is a consideration of paramount importance. 
Adios, 

Seilor, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 
D 



90 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XXI. 



Departure from Mazatlan for San Bias— Native Schooner— Passengers— Distance — 
The Coast along— Port of San Bias— Its Site— Productions on elKio de Santiago 
—Harbor of San Bias, a Roadstead— Danger of it in the Rainy Season— Elevation 
of a portion of ^*an tlas— Its supply of "Water— Its Houses— Old Spanish Custom 
House— Business, and that Class residing here— L'uhealthiu ess of the Site- 
Public Houses— Is ative Hotel— French Hotel— Hotel Fare. 



Amigo Mio : — Having been in Mazatlan and its vicin- 
ity near a month, I began to feel desirous of seeing other 
parts of the Mexican Republic, and to-day, the twenty-third 
of March, I left for San Bias, on a small Italian schooner, in 
company with several Mexican ladies and gentlemen, and 
also one American, Captain Stocker. That port is distant 
from this city one hundred and eighty miles. 

It was five o'clock on Sunday afternoon, and the schooner 
was crowded with native passengers, not unlike the Ha- 
waiian schooners sailing from Island to Island ; the cabin was 
small and appropriated to family uses ; and most of the other 
passengers of the better class of Mexicans, ten in number, 
remained on deck, eating, drinking, sauntering and sleep- 
ing there also. The passage money we had to pay was fif- 
teen dollars ; — though we were found with a bountiful sup- 
ply of bread, beef, fowls, eggs, cheese, coffee, tea, and Chili 
peppers. Thus, we had to pass two long days in most 
tedious expectation, standing or reclining upon the deck of 
a small coaster in the hot tropical sun, sometimes having 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 91 

the benefit of the shadow of the sail intc^rvening between us 
and that scorching luminary. Nevertheless, in sailing so 
near the coast, and apparently, measuring the space along, 
it was not wholly without interest to my making close obser- 
vations. The coast seems rather shelving to the shore with 
eminences, hills, and mountains in the background, and also, 
with some inlets and coves where native vessels might 
safely ride in a storm. The coast between Mazatlan and 
San Bias is far from presenting such mountainous peaks as 
the coast above the former port. 

In the afternoon of the twenty -fifth of March, our arri- 
val was announced in the port of San Bias, which, to a 
stranger and a foreigner too, had anything else than a pleas- 
ing appearance. The population of this place is computed 
to not much exceed two thousand, and most of whom are 
Indians or mixed. The port of San Bias is situated not far 
from the mouth of el Rio de Santiago, which crosses the 
rich and productive province of Guadalajara from east to 
west, and is of considerable size for a long distance up its 
source ; though in the vicinity of the city of Guadalajara, 
it is rather small, passing tlirough caiiadas in resemblance 
to those through which the American river, and most of 
the California rivers pass, on one's approximating the moun- 
tain districts. In the neighborhood of San Bias and up this 
river, there is an extensive bottom land country of almost 
surpassing fertility. Corn, beans, rice, sugar, coffee, cocoa, 
cotton, bananas, plantains, the different species of custard- 
apple, oranges, limes, and wild fruits of a relishable flavor, 
are to a considerable extent grown, which find in Mazatlan, 
San Bias, and Tepic, a consuming market. The harbor of 
San Bias is little more than an open road-stead ; however, 
merchant vessels run into a small frith behind a projecting 
point, which appears to afford them almost ample security ; 
except during the rainy season, when the winds prevail 



92 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

from the south-east to the south, and from the south-west. 
During this season there is no safety in lying here at 
anchor ; for storms and winds fall upon doomed places 
within the tropics, as if by the potent force of gravitation. 
A portion of its site near the beach, and where the business 
seems to be done, is low, sandy, and scarcely elevated above 
the sea ; yet the old part of the town is built on a slight 
elevation, not exceeding four hundred and fifty feet, which, 
in the rainy season, resembles an Island ; as it is surrounded 
by branches of el Rio de Santiago. Its watering place for 
shipping is eastward of the roads about three hundred yards, 
and it is necessary to roll the casks this distance through 
jungles to the river, in order to obtain supplies of fresh 
water. Winds favorable to most of the Mexican ports on 
the Pacific generally blow from the west and north-west. 

The streets are few, narrow, and dirty ; and one, in the 
jungles would not think them laid out with very precise 
notions of regularity. The better class of houses and public 
buildings have not much lo boast over the architecture of 
Indian hut?, made of bamboo, a species of coarse reed, 
which reeds are cut off near twelve feet long, and then set 
in the ground perpendicularly, in the form of a row, the 
size of the hut, leaving places for doors and windows. They 
are usually covered with a coarse grass laid on reeds, run- 
ning across the tops of the perpendicular ones, at an angle 
of forty-five degrees. 

Thus lo ! the poor Indian, the red man of the forest, huts 
himself in this land of perennial spring, by a most simple 
effort of plastic skill. In this port there are a few adobe 
houses and stone buildings, though there is one which should 
not pass without notice. It is the old Spanish Custom 
House, situated on the right of the street from the landing, 
which is one-half mile from the new town. This building 
is of the Moorish order of architecture, of a very early 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 



93 




CITY AND HARBOR OF SAN BLA8. 



94 TEAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

date in the history of Mexican events, under Spanish rec- 
ognition. It is on a mound near 500 feet above the level 
of the sea. It looks old and somewhat dilapidated ; and in 
approaching the port, it is the only building of seeming 
consequence which, in bold relief, singles itself out to the 
eye of a stranger. This is where the old town of San Bias 
was located. The road leading to this old Custom House, 
winds around a portion of the mound in a spiral form, 
which adds much to the natural beauty and grandeur of the 
site. It is mechanically paved with small pebble stones, 
which work was done by the Spaniards when they held 
possession of the country, and made the numerous Indian 
tribes on the western slope of the Mexican Cordillera con- 
tribute from the silver and gold mines abounding in those 
regions to fill their proud coiFers here for foreign shipment. 
Along the base of this mound, and the road, there are seen 
growing many of the fruits peculiar to this latitude, com- 
prising a dense forest of plantain, banana, cocoa, the cus- 
tard apple and other tropical trees, with a thick jungle of 
flowering shrubs, vines, and plants, which render ineffec- 
tual the penetration of one's vision ; yet, in a hot climate, 
treat the admirers of nature with lovely and verdant as- 
pects. As seen in the cut of San Bias, this mound of bold 
and rocky formation, presents itself, as I have observed, at 
sea and near the port, with a most picturesque uniqueness. 
The surface of its summit embraces an area of nearly 
eighty rods square, which forms the site of the old town, as 
just remarked in a preceding paragraph. Owing to this 
unhealthy site, the business of the port was removed to 
nearer the landing many years since ; however, the Old 
Custom House is now occupied, and many of the old build- 
ings suffered to go to decay, are now tenanted. And in 
fact, the ruins of a departed age are now beginning to bud 
from the ruthless inertness of a mercurial, an improvident, 
yet a desirous people. 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 95 

This Custom House is a large, elegant and capacious 
construction of stone, with colonnades all around inside of 
the court-yard, and stuccoed with a snowy white cement. 
On the verge of this mound, there is a redoubt which looks 
down a perpendicular descent, the full height of the fort, 
and planted here, in an eminent position to command the 
harbor, there are several cannon of large calibre, which 
look as if they might do execution if properly engineered. 

In San Bias, there is one main street on which most of 
the business is done, and where most of the houses and 
huts are situated. There are a few foreigners in this port 
engaged in commercial pursuits, who own small schooners 
which serve as coast-carriers, plying from one sea port 
town to another. These foreigners are distinguished by 
the appellations of French, Germans, Hollands, and one 
American, having come to this place from California. It 
would not require a superhuman effort to convince one that 
it is solely avarice, a bane that too often plants man be- 
neath the sod, which prompts human nature to endure this 
town. The excessive heat from its latitude and altitude, 
and the peculiar locality of the site, being mostly surroun- 
ded by low, marshy ponds, resulting from the disgorge- 
ment of el Rio de Santiago, tend to lead one to this consid- 
eration. These ponds abound in frogs, snakes, and other 
creeping reptiles incident to the torrid zone ; such as sand- 
flies, gnats, and musketos, and others too numerous by far 
to mention. Cientopies are common, and are looked upon 
by the natives with peculiar and crawling dread ; they seem 
to possess natural instinct sufficient to get under the skin, 
lay eggs and breed there, causing that part to be dread- 
fully swollen and inflamed with a most dangerous viru- 
lence. All these considerations and circumstances, con- 
spire beyond doubt, to place San Bias nearly in the same 
category as to sickness and discomfort, with Vera Cruz on 
the Gulf of Mexico. 



96 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

In and around San Bias, there is a thick undergrowth 
or jungle, which one would imagine a most capital place 
for ladrones, and other species of wild and ferocious ani- 
mals. In port, there are but two public houses where 
travelers put up, bordering on any degree of comfort. One 
of these is kept by a Frenchman, and the other by a Creole 
Mexican female, of rather a durable color ; but just the 
kind for such a position in such a climate, — to endure the 
blasts of innumerable ills. In putting up at una po$ada 
in Mexico, I always give my preference to one kept by a 
native ; for such an host or hostess as the case may be, 
makes more exertion to please and court the good humor of 
travelers, and usually is in possession of more practical in- 
formation than is common for foreigners of this class. At 
a native hotel, the fare at table consists of a greater variety 
of eatables, better cooked and placed before one, with a 
more cordial good will, which civility, at home or abroad, 
applies to the critical consideration of guests, either in fa- 
vor or disfavor of the host, far beyond common expectation. 
The Freueh hotel in this place is a most meagi-e affair ; 
apparently it would seem like being at the mercy of the 
wave, to bivouac, as it were, at la Fonda de Huesos Duros/ 
Fai-e at these hotels is 75 cents a meal, or two dollars per 
day, including lodging. 

In my next, amigo, I will close my description of San 
Bias and its unhappy inmates, and lead your mind to take 
a view of our departure from this naked site, accompany- 
ing me to our first station. 

Adios, 

Sen or, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS, 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLEEA. 97 



LETTER XXII. 

Native Hotel— Musketos— Merchandise Landed in Port— San Bias, a Port of Entry 
and Shipment only— Whites living here— Stages for Tepic— Stage Passengers- 
Heard of an attack of Ladrones— Precaution— Preparation— Trunks Secured— 
Departure at eleven o'clock at night— Thick Woods— Expected attack. 

Amigo Mio : — I am not aware that, at the nsdive fonda 
I have seen but two apartments, where travelers sleep, — 
one of which is appropriated to the benefit of ladies, and the 
other to that of gentlemen. The beds consist of cots to 
all appearance, made of moss or wool, with two sheets, a 
counterpane and a clean looking pillow. A musketo bar 
is a necessary accompaniment to the pleasure of a sleep- 
ing apartment in the hotel; as musketos at times cloud the 
air, and would rather make one think of the approach of 
an eclipse of the sun, even at meridian day. 

The landing of goods and embarking on ship-board is 
performed here in the same manner as at Mazatlan, by the 
means of Hghters and cargadors. Approaching the shore the 
water becomes shoal, and the beach is sandy, and the har- 
bor is constantly filling in by the annual floods which pour 
down from the table lands of the Western Cordilleras. 
This place is merely designed and devised as a port of en- 
try, and depot for the merchandise going to the interior, 
and the commodities brought in from the surrounding coun- 
try, in favor of home or foreign shipment. 



98 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Few native whites live here, except those connected with 
the administration of the govenment ; such as collectors of 
foreign and inland duties, an alcalde, and such as are engaged 
in the discharge of municipal functions in a Mexican sea- 
port town. There are two daily lines of stages here, which 
leave for Tepic at eleven o'clock at night, distant 60 miles. 
One of these lines belong to the old line running through 
the city of Mexico, and so on to Vera Cruz on the Gulf of 
Mexico ; and the fare from San Bias to the city of Mex- 
ico is eighty-five dollars ; thence to Vera Cruz fifty dol- 
lars, making in all not much more than one hundred and 
thirty dollars. The other line runs to Tepic only, and 
charges five dollars, which the old line charges thus far, and 
thence to Vera Cruz, it runs without opposition. 

Most of the passengers who came from Mazatlan to San 
Bias, had seven hours only to remain here before depar- 
ture. There were near twenty of us desiring to go to 
Tepic with the old line of stages, including the Mexican 
ladies and gentlemen alluded to, with several servants. I 
am sorry to say that there was not room in the one stage 
to take us all ; and therefore, the Mexican family deferred 
going till the next night. We were informed that we might 
be attacked by a band of robbers or ladrones, who before 
night perhaps, had been taking an accurate and ample sur- 
vey of our baggage, our persons, and above all, our guns, 
revolvers and general supply of ammunition. That this 
being the case, I am rather under the impression they 
formed a correct idea of our being ready and determined to 
meet the emergency in the best possible manner, from the 
advanced condition of our preparations, at the hotel before 
dark. We were more particuhir on this occasion than 
usual for travelers in this port, as the stage only a few days 
previous to this, had been attacked by a band of ladrones 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 99 

near Tepic, and fired through fifteen times ; though no one 
was killed, yet one of the party was shghtly wounded. 

Having dined upon the ample and sumptuous good cheer 
of our hostess, and all other preparations having been made 
for our journey and safety, which precaution could reason- 
ably suggest, — we reclined till eleven o'clock P. M., the time 
set for our exit and adventure. Our trunks were put on the 
boot behind the box as snugly as possible, and then what 
seemed very uncommon to me, and as if for security, iron 
bands would be necessary, the stage servants secured these 
trunks by the means of a heavy chain well fastened to 
bolts and rings ; and thence to a ring, the chain is locked 
securely. This chain is used instead of a leather strap as 
in the United States, because the ladrones have usually 
been in the habit of riding up behind the stage and cutting 
the strap when the stage is in full motion ; and letting the 
trunks fall out, an easy prey to their maurauding avarice. 
Some twelve of us well armed, having taken our seats 
within the stage at the hour of departure, and the steeds 
being all ready with an hostler at the head of each outside 
one, there being six in number, two at the tongue and four 
on the lead, we bade adieu to our traveling friends and 
most cordial and plump looking hostess, and sallied forth 
with a bound and galloping gait, for some miles out of the 
town. 

The night was dark, scarcely starlight ; and what added 
so much to the horror of travelling on this strange road, and 
in this strange country, particularly at night, arose from 
the road passing through a thick wooded country for more 
than twenty miles out ; and most of this distance is quite 
low, marshy and full of ponds, with a close jungle on either 
side. 

Such is the time for one to recall to mind the many dan- 
gers incurred by traveling in Mexican States, expecting at 

L.ofC. 



100 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

any turn of the road, an unwelcome salute behind a clus- 
ter of trees or underbrush, from a band of outlaws, who in 
many places give no terms of peace to the country, and 
who infest the highways like vultures on las /pampas, 
where the woolly flocks are quietly pasturing. 

My next letter, amigo mio, will be merely a continuation 
of my stage traveling, giving you the most striking partic- 
ulars which may have elicited my notice on the way to . 
Tepic. 

Adios, 

Seiior, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 101 



LETTER XXIII. 

First Station, its aspect andSoil— The Improvements thereat— Dispatch of Mexican 
Hostlers— 8 tar-light -V apt. Stocker— Ready for an attack by Ladrones— Forests 
—Wild Birds— Landscape— Second Station — Aspect of the Country— Koad— 
Troy Coach— Third Station— Bracing air— Country more Cultivated— Its Pro- 
ductions—Country aspect continued. 

Amigo Mio : — Having all arrived at our first station, 
we felt a sensible relief in yielding our seats for a few 
moments, that we might stretch ourselves, and regain man's 
erect estate, by walking on the earth, even in a foreign land 
and taking in a few breaths of its soft balmy atmosphere, 
without being in a flight. 

We had passed along quietly for miles, for it really 
seemed miles, ere we came to the first post to get our relay 
of mules to proceed on. 

The aspect and general contour of the lawn into which 
we entered, from the thick forest behind us, seemed rather 
inviting to travelers at the hour of midnight. It is sur- 
rounded on either side by a thick forest of trees and under- 
growth, and apparently in the center of which lawn the 
rancho buildings are located, commanding no particular ob- 
servations. They are of but little consequence. From the 
growth of the forest, the champaign country over which we 
bad been passing, and by which this place is encompassed 
on either side, and the apparent abundance of needful sup- 
plies at this station, I should think this region highly pro- 



102 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

ductive by nature, and that it only wants the hand of a 
stronger muscle, and a firmer will, and a good government, 
to even astonish the natives themselves. 

Our coachman informed us that this station is fifteen 
miles from San Bias, and we all felt for the present much 
happier than a short time past, since silvery starlight had 
appeared to light our way. There is no house here of any 
importance, ranchos being worked by Indians, under the 
direction of a superintendent ; the proprietors of the soil 
living a town life. Therefore, the sole object here as else- 
where, one would be most readily impressed with the con- 
viction, is that of harvest and re-harvest, till the fertility of 
the soil is exhausted apparently, and without a thought cast 
to higher improvements of the place or station. Now as 
before, the same number of mules harnessed and arranged 
in the same manner to the stage, I observed, and that much 
dispatch was used by the servants at this post in having the 
mules ready at the time required. In fact, the Mexican 
hostlers are quite as expert in the rapid discharge of their 
several duties as elsewhere ; and it really did most con- 
vince us that we were traveling in some more favored gov- 
ernment ; for we got along with as Httle delay as we might 
expect to encounter in the United States. 

All being ready, and having surveyed this lawn as mi- 
nutely as starhght would permit an accustomed eye to dart 
under the canopy of semi-darkness, we respectively resum- 
ed our seats ; Capt. Stocker being on the top of the stage, 
immediately behind the driver, to keep a close lookout, and 
all cocked for the occasion of meeting with ladrones, if they 
durst show their sable heads and brilliant carbines. 

During the Mexican war, and since that period, this 
Capt. Stocker has been a venturesome explorer of this Re- 
public, from north to south, and from east to west, traveling 
with considerable money about his person, or his mule, 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 103 

though in such a manner as not to create the least suspi- 
cion. Once or twice he has been taken prisoner, and many- 
other times he has run hair-breadth escapes in passing 
through the districts infested by bands of revolutionary 
characters. The Captain is a fair specimen of a go-ahead 
New Yorker, and quite commonly, I have been told, he 
leaves an impression of his indomitable perseverance, most 
intrepid courage, daring valor, and his general prudence in 
deportment, by and through the means of which he is read- 
ily distinguished. He traces, if I mistake not, his geneal- 
ogy to that numerous tribe of European adventurers who 
settled in New York at an early day, self-styled Gotham- 
ites. In departing from our first station we cast back, not 
a long lingering look, but a pleasing one, that we were again 
in motion, passing on at a rapid pace. We were all ready 
for an attack, and having one hundred rounds of balls both 
in and on the outside of the stage ; we were all firm in the 
conviction that wB should give the ladrones a hot, though 
perhaps not the most cordial reception. The road appeared 
to lead us through the same thick wood and jungle as here- 
tofore, and in passing along I was told by a fellow passen- 
ger well acquainted in this country, that we were and had 
been passing through parts abounding with logwood, and 
varieties of wood well adapted for cabinet purposes. 

The forest is evergreen, and many of the trees bear blos- 
soms of various shades of color, both fragrant and inviting. 
It being night I could see no wild animals nor birds, though 
I was told that they abound in these regions ; and in simi- 
lar parts of Mexico, when traveling in the day time I had 
the satisfaction of seeing them with mine own eyes. Among 
the feathered tribe are several species of parrots, attired in 
their brilliant plumage, and making the old woodes re-echo 
with their songs of mirthful festivity. In such a region, 
with the wild animals bounding before your soft tread, ami- 



104 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

go ; the feathered tribe skipping, with a slight evolution of 
the wing from limb to limb, and from tree to tree, and now 
and then making a graceful curve around you, the sun 
then reflecting his radiant beams on their golden tints ; 
and with a landscape on either side exceeding the rich 
touch of the pencil, man can feast his mind on the actual, 
not the imaginary, and learn, though he knows much both 
by reading and traveling, and though he is ensconced in 
silks and in costly equipages, better how to appreciate the 
works of nature. 

The next station we reached without an accident, and 
even without an attack, as we had contemplated Avhen leav- 
ing the last. Happy now we felt to get out into a more 
open country, and also out of the stage, to change our 
cramped and stationary position. It is a most welcome re- 
lief to stage travelers in Mexico to have frequent relays on 
a public road, affording them time to rest a moment with 
limbs erect, and thoughts around, meditating upon what 
they had and were seeing about them. 

The country through which we were now passing is some- 
what rough and undulating, with high hills, and in the dis- 
tance, mountain ranges upon ranges appeared in quick suc- 
cession. The road is smooth, or comparatively free from 
timbers and brush, when passing woody regions, and also 
from stones, when passing over broken or undulating dis- 
tricts on to Tepic. The coach being made in Troy, in the 
State of New York, of large dimensions, firm and strong, 
much more so than those used in the United States ; in 
comparative safety we journeyed on over proud hills and 
eminences in lengthened age, till our arrival at the third 
station was announced, when to our great satisfaction, day- 
light we found, had been on the wing, and the sun had just 
lit up the morning scuds dancing before his burnished 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 105 

plane. The air is now as through the night past, cool and 
bracing, especially in proportion to our elevation. A blank- 
et or a cloak, when one travels in Mexico, at any season 
of the year, is a most desirable accompaniament, to be used 
in avoiding the damps at night, or the rains by day, in the 
rainy season. 

All being ready, and having delighted ourselves in test- 
ing the strength and penetration of our vision, we sallied 
forth with bounding steeds, as if to be taught again the use 
of the rein and trace. The country now had more the 
appearance of cultivation on either side, and in the distance. 
Wheat and barley plainly indicated that they were fit for 
the sickle ; and beautifully in contrast with what we had 
passed through but a short time since, the golden heads 
waved in the morning breeze, coming down from the Cor- 
dilleras. 

Corn, bananas, plantains, garlics, sugar-cane, coffee, 
cotton and cacao, yet in small quantities of each kind, were 
seen growing and ripening, up the gulches and on the nar- 
row rivulets, where water could be had for irrigation. 
This mode of cultivation and the kinds of productions con- 
tinued the same till our arrival within a few miles of the 
city 6f Tepic ; the country open and broken ; volcanic and 
porous rocks abounding, and destitute of timber except 
here and there clumps of trees eight and ten feet high. 
Near half the distance from San Bias to Tepic, there is a 
very little timber, or even wood for cooking purposes, 
which scarcety begins thirty miles inland from the port. 
There is something cheering in approaching the rim of the 
basin which surrounds the city of Tepic. 

The next I shall confine to my arrival at the stage ofiice, 
and at la Fonda de Oro ; afterwards it will be my purpose 
to give a description of this hotel in the same letter, which 



106 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

may make it long and tedious : though have patience, and 
I will be your happy conductor in many parts of this sin- 
gular and strangely romantic country. 
Adios, 

Senor, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 107 



LETTER XXIV. 



Arrival at Tepic— La Fonda de Oro— My apartment— Breakfast— Description of this 
Hotel— Its Architecture and Ornaments— The Court Yard. 



Amigo Mio : — Our arrival at Tepic, after having appar- 
ently and fancifully passed through many dangers by land, 
was announced at the staoe office, not far down a narrow 
street from the Plaza. It was then eight o'clock, and the 
morning was cool and invigorating, not too warm or too 
cold ; but just such an one as the imagination may dream 
of. After our getting out of the stage, dusty, fatigued, 
sleepy and hungry, and after seeing respectively to our 
baggage, the nearest and most convenient steps were taken 
to la Fonda de Oro, the Golden hotel, kept by Dona Pedro, 
a fat, short of stature, thick as tall, but a good natured 
landlady. I am most happy to say, amigo, that my star 
had not failed me yet, for I was fortunate enough to get a 
single room, with a good clean bed, a table and wash-stand, 
fronting the Plaza on the north. Most of my traveling 
companions met with the same success, though in different 
apartments of the same building. Having my trunk taken 
to my room, and this being quickly adjusted for the occa- 
sion, with water, soap and towels, I mechanically closed 
the huge door, having small apertures in the upper panel 
for the admission of light and air, and turned a correspond- 



108 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

ing key, letting my quickened imagination take a long 
farewell of ladrones and threatened dangers. Being now 
the twenty-sixth day of March, I found the temperature 
warm and somewhat suffocating in my room, as I was then 
about undergoing a thorough washing and scrubbing with 
the requirements but just alluded to. After this bath, I 
endeavored to rest a few moments to resuscitate my wearied 
frame, ere I sallied out of my prison wall. The welcome 
news of the breakfast bell having been announced through- 
out the halls, which made them re-echo the pleasant sound, 
I found myself attired and ready to repair to the break- 
fast saloon where the cedar table seemed to groan with 
the many good dishes prepared to my liking ; some after 
our mode of cooking, and others wholly Spanish. Our 
breakfast consisted of coffee and chocolate, beef-steak, and 
chickens, roasted and cooked otherwise, sweet potatoes and 
onions, rice with fresh beef cooked together, hot cakes and 
good light bread, eggs, fish and lettuce. These dishes at 
table were all served in a most respective manner to the 
guests, for the use of whom individually there was placed 
near the plate a fine table napkin. I am not aware of 
any butter being on the table, which, as an article of lux- 
ury and good relish, is rare throughout Mexico ; and when 
had, it is whitish and unreHshable. Breakfast at this ho- 
tel is from ten to eleven o'clock, A. M. ; dinner at five, and 
chocolate at eight o'clock in the evening ; and besides, in 
the morning at six, seven or eight o'clock, chocolate can be 
had by announcing one's desire to the chamber waiter, 
whose office it is to call at an early hour in the morning, to 
receive the requests and orders of the guests, in their res- 
pective rooms. 

Having taken a minute survey of la Fonda de Oro, I dis- 
covered it to be a large building, occupying an area of two 
hundred by one hundred and fifty feet, and consisting of 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 109 

two stories, the lower one rented out for stores, and the 
upper one occupied by mine hostess. The upper story is 
divided off into sleeping apartments ; a breakfast saloon 
which answers for a dining one also ; a kitchen and other 
rooms required for the convenience of the house. This 
building is composed of adobes and sun-burnt bricks, laid 
in Mexican cement, which becomes firmly united with the 
other materials. 

In Spanish or Mexican countries one of the chief re- 
quirements in architecture, is a will to so construct their 
dwellings as to be impervious to the effect of heat or cold ; 
which construction I readily recognized in making further 
observations with reference to this hotel. The walls are 
three feet thick ; the floors eighteen inches thick, and com- 
posed of joists, planks, and bricks laid in cement; the roof 
is flat like all the rest in this city, and is constructed in the 
same manner as at Mazatlan and elsewhere throughout 
the whole Republic. This construction resembles that of 
the floor. The Public Square or Plaza, is on the north 
side of this hotel, which is situated lengthwise, extending 
two hundred feet from east to west. Fronting the Plaza, 
la Fonda has a balcony running its whole length, suspended 
by columns fifteen feet apart, with arches neatly turned 
and extending from one column to the other. 

The same columns extend from the basis of the balcony 
to the roof of this castle-like mansion, with arches turned 
in the same manner as below. The balcony serves as a 
fine promenade at any time of the day, for it is ever cool, 
and frequently there is a bracing mountain breeze passing 
through it, which delights one very much, on coming out of 
his darkened chamber. Mechanically speaking, there is no 
window to this edifice, but mere apertures through the up- 
per panels of the doors, which answer the purpose of light- 
ing the apartments by day. The doors are large and thick, 



110 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

and well hung by iron fastenings, which would ostensibly 
bid defiance to petty thieves and robbers. Fronting the 
plaza, they open on to the balcony, which I have found to 
be a matter of great convenience, in the promotion of com- 
fort and pleasure. The balcony is twenty feet wide ; and 
on the east side of the house, there is none, except small 
projections at doors, looking out into the street. This hotel 
is constructed upon the plan of a hollow square, affording 
a court-yard in the center thirty by thirty feet, with a bal- 
cony, columns, and arches formed in the same manner as 
those fronting the street on the north, except that this bal- 
cony extends around the circle of the court-yard below and 
above, and is near twelve feet wide. It serves as a prom- 
enade for the inside or court-yard sleeping apartments, and 
rooms adapted to several other purposes. The building is 
plastered with a cement on the inside, and also on the out- 
side, which gives it a hard finish and whitish appearance. 
The street balcony has a balustrade three feet high, and of 
heavy construction, suitable to the columns and arches ; and 
that within is constructed in a similar manner, extending 
fron column to column around the balcony. The rail of 
this balustrade is near eight inches wide, and also extends 
horizontally from column to column, as just mentioned ; 
and on it, Dona Pedro has a fine collection of flowering 
plants and shrubs, which she superintends and prunes with 
her own careful hands. 

These natural ornaments — those which not only the en- 
lightened delight to gather and wreathe into fancied fes- 
toons, but the untutored Indian who roams the wild forest, 
feels himself elated and delighted when plucking those 
that, many times, carpet the earth and cringe at his tread — 
impress them witli the imposing beauty and harmony in 
the adjustment of nature's works. They add too a cooling 
freshness and charm to the inside balcony, which makes the 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. Ill 

power of it almost irresistible ; notwithstanding, in the cen- 
ter of the court-yard, there is a playful fountain, jetting up 
near fifteen feet, or on a level with the balcony, and then 
darting off and falling in different directions, in resemblance 
to rain, when near the fountain. 

Not far from the fountain are set four orange trees of 
good size, which are in perennial bloom, and pour forth to 
various apartments the sweet and balmy odor arising from 
bursting buds ; and near this artistic reservoir is set a wil- 
low tree, sheding its long and slender arm-like branches over 
this crystal water, making it cool lo the palate, waving to 
the gentle touch of the least breeze within, and causing one 
to feel that yet there may be an Elysian abode for the good 
man to retire to rest. I have yet to describe another natural 
ornament, which would rather tend to eclipse the beauty of 
the past scene. 

Near each of the columns within the court-yard, there 
grows and ascends to the entablatures of the upper columns 
of the building, a climbing rose bush, rare in its beauty, 
and in perennial bloom, running along near the upper arches, 
entwining and wreathing each other respectively into thou- 
sands of gay festoons and unique intermixtures, from the 
pedestals where these creepers enter the ground, to the tips 
of their delicate fingers, of irresistible tangibility, around 
the upper circle of the court-yard. 
Adios, 

Sefior, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



..^^.. 



112 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XXV. 



Call on tlie Commercial House of Barron & Forbes— Their Agent— Introduction to 
Senor CalUer, 'Superintendent of their Cotton Factory— La Plaza— Chuixhes— 
Cit}- Prison— Prisoners tor Tolitical Offences- Extent of La Plaza— Its Prom- 
enades—The Reservois— Its Ornaments. 



Amigo Mio : — At twelve o'clock on the day of my arri- 
val in the city of Tepic, having made myself feel as comfor- 
table as possible, I strolled out from my hotel to take a bird's 
eye view of the town and its environs ; but finding it too 
warm, I contented myself to call at the commercial House 
of Barron & Forbes> now under the superintendence of 
Senor John F. Allsopp, an Englishman by birth, though 
long a resident of Spanish and Mexican countries. To this 
gentleman I had a letter of introduction from the firm of 
Seilors Echeguren & Co., of Mazatlan, and upon the house 
of Barron & Forbes a small draft ; both of which on being 
presented received the immediate attention and favorable 
consideration of Sefior Allsopp. I have found, amigo, this 
gentleman courteous, affable, attentive, bland and open in 
his deportment to others ; although in consequence of the 
banishment of Sefiors Barron and Forbes, the whole finan- 
cial superintendence of commercial and factory business, 
devolves necessarily on him to discharge ; notwithstanding, 
in various branches of this business, I have had the pleas- 
ure of becoming acquainted with gentlemen of intelligence 
and practical experience. Among these gentlemen who 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 113 

struck me most favorably, is William Collier, Esq., a native 
of the State of Massachusetts, to whose kind attention I 
was introduced by Seiior AUsopp on my first call to see 
this gentleman himself. Seiior Collier I shall mention 
again, not from his being a countryman of mine, but in 
connection with his family, his business, and the affairs of 
the country. 

In the afternoon when it had become somewhat cool, I 
took a survey of the city and discovered it to be laid out 
mostly at right angles, with a public square or plaza nearly 
in the center. 

The plaza is large, and fronting it on either side the 
buildings are generally two stories high, and many of them 
like the Fonda de Oro, have columns and arches, which 
greatly enhance the symmetrical and architectural arrange- 
ment of the square. Near the northeast corner of the plaza, 
I cast my eyes and saw a massive edifice, its spire tapering 
in the wandering clouds, with due and equal proportions, its 
base consumed the rich and fertile earth ; aud the many 
gigantic stones and rocks united to the various parts of its 
construction, robbed the ancient quarries of those tell-tales, 
by which geology in her onward march, deciphers the 
countless ages heretofore passed on. 

This is the church of catholic faith, where the devout 
and pious of heart kneel before their God and their saints 
in solemn devotion, — asking forgiveness of past sins, — and 
they are forgiven, — even the unholy publicans and ladrones' 
that infest the Republic like vultures, and the pickpockets 
in the ijiidst of the saints. From this sacred altar they 
depart various ways with a light heart ; and the first oppor- 
tunity presented, they commit the same sins again, and 
again they are piously forgiven, paying a small pittance for 
penitence's sake. Near the northwest corner of the plaza, 
I opened mine eyes and beheld el carcel de la ciudad, the 



114 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

city prison, which is but one stoiy high, large and commo- 
dious for the purposes intended. In front and on the roof 
de el carcel de la ciudad, there is ever a sentinel with an 
ample number of city guards at hand, to enforce order or 
insurrection, just as the whims and interests of the major- 
ity of the citizens may apparently desire or demand. So 
far as I have been able to observe the court-yards of the 
city prisons in this country, there is in each a number of 
heavy ordnance ; and in this, and near the entrance, I saw 
one engineered for action. The object of such, so far as I 
could learn, is to silence as far as practicable political mur- 
murings and to keep the malcontents in awe and submission. 
It is now tumultuous times in Tepic ; for the two political 
parties seem to hate each other most bitterly, and as if 
they were not of one common country, and ever ready to 
assume any advantages, which the want of foresight or the 
weakness of the other party, failed to fortify and make con- 
tinually tenable. [This is March, 1856.] 

This I shall more definitely allude to in some more dis- 
tant letter. However, there are now many prisoners incar- 
cerated, — some for civil and criminal offences, and others 
for political offences against the new organization of the 
government under the auspices of Gen Comonfort ; although 
many times individual parties make use of political fer- 
ments to revenge themselves upon those they both fear and 
dread. And this private, though ostensibly intended for 
public vengeance, may find its sneaking trail even on the 
beautiful plains of Anahuac, as elsewhere. The plaza 
embraces an area of four acres, and on either side between 
the street and the outside plaza walks, there are trees, but 
not fruit-bearing, set thirty feet apart, which extend their 
many limbs and green foliage far out, rendering the streets 
and the walks adjacent cool and inviting. The chief prom- 
enade of the plaza extends around its whole circuit, with 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 115 

several others leading to the reservoir and playful fountain 
in the center, and corresponding with the octangular points 
of the compass. 

These walks are permanently laid with flag stones ; and 
on the outside of the principal promenade, seats are con- 
structed of soft-burnt bricks in the same manner as those 
embracing la plaza at Mazatlan. The reservoir is large, 
and the water is clear and cool, and is much in use through- 
out the town. The domestics come hither from various 
parts of the city at evening twilight, with native earthern 
jars, some small, and others large ; and some of these ser- 
vants with one jar on the head, while others trudge along 
with a large jar suspended by the means of a thong to a 
pole, between two of them. Near this holy spot, in prox- 
imity to the church, I took my stand with an apparent non- 
chalance, and when I beheld the good and the bad, the fair 
and the homely, the young and the old, the sane and the 
maimed, domestics and servants pass me by, with all the 
peculiarities of expressions, contortions and evolutions im- 
aginable ; — I could not avoid thinking of the good old 
Samaritans, when going to the sacred pool to ask absolu- 
tion. The fountain plays beautifully ; and not unfrequently 
the sprays, at morning or evening, ascend so high that a 
miniature rainbow repays the observer for his attention. 
The reservoir is 20 feet in diameter and four feet high, 
composed of solid masonry, — the wall being two feet thick, 
laid in cement. At the base, flag stones are laid out six 
feet, forming thus a circular walk, which unites with those 
leading in from the principal promenade. A willow tree 
near this fountain and extending its graceful and waving 
branches over its cooling and inviting waters, caps the 
description of this beautiful square in the present number 
of my letters ; yet again for a moment, I may allude to it 
with reference to other matters. 



116 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Feeling somewhat fatigued and sickened from too much 
exposure, I must beg to take a good farewell of my much 
esteemed friend, Agricola, for the present. 
Adios, 

Sefior, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUSi 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 117 



LETTER XXVI. 

Agpeot of the City of Tepic from a high elevation— Its Extent— Mountain Springs- 
Streets — Chimnies —Architecture —Dwellings— Private Court Yards- Valley 
of Tepic— Volcanic Eocks— Soil— Productions— Famine— Sugar Estates— Ma- 
chinery— Continuous Crops— Cotfee Plantations— Pasturage— Fine Horses and 
Carriages— Holy Padre in a Carriage— Woodland— Fuel— Lumber— Fencing. 

Amigo Mio : — In my last I confined myself, or rather 
the work of my pen, to the city ; but in this number I 
intend to take your imagination to some high elevation, 
where I can paint to your mind, the throne of reason, the 
beautiful and undulating valley of Tepic. I departed some 
distance from the town, when the heat of the day was being 
suspended, and the orb of light fast returning to his rosy 
hed, to feast my mind and instruct the powers of my rea- 
son with reference to the form of the city, the manner of 
its being laid out, its prominent edifices, and the general 
aspect and formation of the valley. The city seems to be 
situated on a champaign surface, and to be laid out some- 
what with a view to right angles ; notwithstanding, near 
the town rolling eminences protude in various shapes. The 
surface which it appears to occupy embraces the area of 
one square mile, and on the north side of it there is now 
the bed of a dry creek, which in the rainy season swells 
and foams, receiving mountain supplies, with great and vio- 
lent impetuosity. By mountain springs rising not far dis- 
tant from the city, Tepic is abundantly supplied with pure, 
cool, and crystal-like water. Springs in this valley are 



118 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

remarkably bold and forcible ; for northwest of the city, 
near two miles, there is one which bursting forth with 
increditable velocity, as if it had been some pent up tor- 
rent finding an opening, and ere it runs two miles, increases 
to such a volume by a few feeders, that it assumes the 
character of a small river, dashing and foaming over vol- 
canic rocks and boulders, till it finds its devious way to el 
Rio de Santiago. The streets are narrow, and also the 
side walks ; the former are laid with round cobble stones 
near three inches in diameter, in a kind of cement, and in 
a concave form, so that the rain water runs off through the 
center of the street ; and the latter are laid with soft-burnt 
bricks or flag stones, and usually in a workmanlike man- 
ner. The entire width of the streets to the side walks on 
either side of the street varies from four to five feet, 
which adjustment of the streets and walks makes it quite 
inconvenient for carts and carriages, and also foot persons, 
passing each other. Scarcely throughout the whole city 
can you see a chimney, which in the assumed order of arch- 
itecture in the United States presents a finished and sym- 
etrical beauty to dwelling houses. 

The custom among the Spaniards and Mexicans, with 
reference to not having chimneys attached to their dwell- 
ings, had its origin far back, even among the Persians, the 
Greeks and Romans ; and cooking out of the main building 
with charcoal in hot climates, is to some extent coupled with 
the rise and growth of this custom. The buildings in this 
city vary much in height ; some are two stories high, while 
others are but one. 

The private dwellings among the rich or wealthier class, 
have court-yards in the center with columns, arches, balco- 
nies, and balustrades, suitable to the construction and num- 
ber of stories ; and frequently, where taste and the least 
pretension to elegance in ornamenting the court yards, bear 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 119 

a prominent sway, and rather a controling influence, — the 
fair and happy inmates make delicate collections of flower- 
ing plants, shrubs and trees, which they most generally 
adjust with their own snowy hands most beautifully on the 
balustrades and near the crystal fountains. Within these 
court-yards the fair and virtuous matrons and young ladies 
of Anahuac promenade at the rising or the setting sun, or 
when nature requires of them exercise to promote their 
health and give them a cheer uncommon to sedentary hab- 
its. Even on this elevation, amigo, I can see no more 
prominent buildings than those which my pen has already 
described ; therefore we will cast our eyes to the extent 
and surface of the valley of Tepic. It is my impression 
from conversation had with intelligent gentleman, that this 
valley, including some eminences and rolling hills, extends 
over an area of ten miles square. The high elevations, 
and even many of the low hills in proximity to the city, 
carry with them the indisputable evidence of being vol- 
canic ; and porous, flint, and sandstone rocks abound in the 
valley, and border the rim of the mountainous districts ; 
where, in some of which, granite plainly shows its hoary 
locks. The soil being composed of debris and the decom- 
position of vegetable matter, is fertile and quick, most 
beyond conception ; although it is badly and profanely 
used by Mexican husbandmen ; for with the soil as with a 
horse, when once broken in, seldom do they get much rest 
till their natures are nearly exhausted; then they are 
unthoughtfully turned out to, or on, the commons to resus- 
citate themselves as the elements of their own natural affin- 
ity may require. 

The valley is cultivated in a variety of productions nat- 
ural to this climate, either in low or high altitudes. In the 
low altitudes, being near one thousand feet above the level 
of the sea, sugar cane, coffee, cotton, rice, syf* 6t potatos and 



120 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

com, are considerably grown ; but not in sufficient quanti- 
ties to glut the market or produce a superabundance for 
the season. This want of foresight and disposition to plant 
plentifully, even for to-morrow, existing among the Mexi- 
can people, most forcibly stamps their natural indolence 
upon intelligent minds of other nations, which too fre- 
quently engenders disease, as famine and starvation in 
many departments and in seasons of great dearth, ensue, 
producing unheard of distress and almost general conster- 
nation. 

In the higher altitudes and the districts adjacent, corn, 
wheat, barley, oats, beans and Irish potatos, abound and 
flourish with a remarkable exuberance of growth, and ap- 
parently with little care or foresight. In proportion to the 
ground planted, however, it must be understood that these 
productions, as well as the others just mentioned, abound ; 
for there is not always a plenty. In the vicinity of the 
city, there are sugar estates, which yield well, so far as soil 
and growth are concerned, but the machinery and imple- 
ments made use of, both inside and outside of the sugar 
houses, would indicate their method scarcely any in advance 
of the most primitive mode of sugar-making in the West 
India Islands, or the State of Louisiana, when the cane was 
first introduced into those regions by the Spaniards. It is 
usual to make large quantities of panela into small cakes 
for eating by hand ; and these are much used among the 
lower classes, when eating their regular meals of beef, 
cooked with Chili pepper, corn-cakes and water. Mexican 
sugar planters make also large quantities of loaf-sugar, — 
the process of which is, after the cane juice is boiled to a 
granulating consistency, to pour it into earthen jars made 
in the form of a cone, where it cools and the impurities in 
it run out through the lower part of the jar, perforated for 
the purpose. After this, these cakes are placed on scaffolds 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 121 

out in the sun and air, when the atmosphere is dry, in order 
that the drainage may be still further promoted. However, 
this process cannot strip them of their numerous specks and 
impurities. I saw no sugar either brown or white, during 
my Sojourn and observations in several departments of more 
than four months, which, in respect to quality, could favor- 
ably compare with the Louisiana or Texas sugars. 

In describing the machinery for making sugars, and 
other requirements about a sugar house, I do not mean to 
«ay that these planters have none of the requisites ; but 
simply, not those which the arts and sciences have invented 
and made known to the world of late years. Mexican su- 
gars are generally worth from ten to fifteen cents per pound, 
making but little difierence whether purchased on la ha- 
cienda or in town. I have seen no molasses nor syrup in 
the country. I should not omit to observe, that the plant- 
ing of sugar cane may be so arranged in many parts of 
districts adapted to its culture, with reference to its growth 
and ripening, where irrigation is attainable, that the plan- 
ters may be engaged in the process of making sugar full 
two-thirds of the year. Such advantages in favor of Lou- 
isiana and Texas sugar-cane planters, would be hailed there 
as considerations of great and paramount importance. 

Small coffee plantations are springing into existence in 
the region of Topic, and one large plantation of coffee not 
far from the city is being cultivated and enlarged by the 
house of Castafios, that have figured so much at different 
times in Tepic for the last thirty years. But I am under 
the impression, from what I could learn from one of the 
family, a young man well instructed in the classic branches 
of an English, a French and a Spanish education, that he 
or the family are not much versed in the scientific agricul- 
ture which, as adapted to tropical regions, should be care- 
fully studied and well understood. He informed me that 



122 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

they had set their coffee trees from four to six feet apart, 
and let them grow as high as the nature of the tree would 
seem to demand, instead of setting them out eight or nine 
feet apart, clipping the tops off when six feet high, for the 
convenience of gathering the coffee, and pruning them 
twice, — or, at least, once a year, in order to equalize and 
make sure a certain amount of coffee each year. 

Grazing and the rearing of cattle, horses, sheep, and 
hogs, are much attended to, and they are grown in quanti- 
ties to supply only the common demand of the country. 
Pasturage is generally good, yet here, as in the State of 
California, there is the wet and dry season. So far as I 
could observe, I noticed no improvement in stock of any 
kind above that among the Upper Californians. If I no- 
ticed fine carriage horses, caparisoned with tacklings tipped 
with gold, attached to coaches, showing a finished work- 
manship, and inquired whence they came ? I was answered 
" from the United States." In fact, all the good horses 
here in use are either imported from the United States or 
from England. In this respect, I must confess I could not 
repress a smile to see a Catholic bishop in Tepic ride in a 
finely finished and polished coach, drawn by two well- 
matched, large and beautiful bays, richly caparisoned, and 
to learn that but a short time previous they were all im- 
ported from the United States, the land of heretics. My 
amusement at this, was still more heightened to observe the 
sacred personage thus seated, pass along the streets, and 
the half-starved and half-clad populace, with hats off, hurry 
their already quickened pace to keep up with the coach ; 
and when it stopped incidentally, to behold them, — young 
and old — lame and blind, all in imitation, kneel to either 
reverence the Bishop in his sacred gown, or his bedazzling 
equipage. And for ray life, I could not tell wliich they pre- 
ferred to worship. I thought that this showed a faltering 
i& the Catholic faith, or a bias in favor of light. 



or THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 123 

Woodland in the region of Tepic, seems to be scarce. 
I could not see much, nor clumps of trees growing in the 
valley, or on the low hills, and but scattering clusters on 
the higher elevations. Most of the fuel consumed here is 
brought in from some distance in the form of charcoal, and 
scarcely any is required except for culinary purposes. 
There are no trees for lumber or fencing in the immediate 
valley of Tepic ; but at a distance towards the coast a great 
variety of forest trees abound ; and also, in the regions of 
higher altitude, cedar and pine forests become abundant, 
and lumber of these kinds is often conveyed one hundred, 
and even two hundred miles, on two wheeled carts drawn 
by oxen, for the purpose of adding a finish to dwelling 
houses. The manner of fencing in uvo rancho 6 una hacien- 
da, is generally pursued by making use of the numerous 
stones which lay strewed over the hills and plains, quite in 
pl^/itiful profusion. The stone walls are substantial and 
near five feet high, tapering in their spscent. I have often 
rode miles in the stage, passing haciendas walled in by vol- 
canic rocks. 

In my next, it will be my purpose to give you some de- 
scription of Barron & Forbes' Cotton Factory, not far 
from Tepic, in a northward direction ; some account of the 
Superintendent, Sefior CoUier, and of other American me- 
chanics engaged at the Factory. 
Adios, 

Sefior, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



124 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XXVII. 



Hiring a Coach to visit La Fabrica de Algadon de Barron y Forbes— Drive about 
the City— suburbs— The Country and aspect of the Factory— '^actory Build- 
ings and Appurtenances— Superintendent— Cotton used, both Domestic and 
Foreign— Country adapted to Cotton. 



Amigo Mio : — In the afternoon of a beautiful day, while 
remaining in Tepic, a traveling friend and myself hired a 
coach with two gay and beautiful horses, reined up and in 
prancing trim, with a genteel or gentle looking coachman, 
to take a di^ive out to the Factory. Around the public 
square, there are usually six or eight coaches, rather unique 
in form, and perhaps even here, some of them dating back 
to time imraemoriaL They are kept for public use, and let 
out for fifty cents per hour ; which, to a foreigner and a 
stranger in the land, is no small consideration in the way of 
convenience. In comparison with San Francisco or Cali- 
fornia prices, we thought we had engaged our coach drive 
remarkably cheap. This coach had windows on either side, 
in such a manner that we could observe the streets and 
houses as we were passing along. 

To enjoy a full sight of the city, and that too without 
much cost or price^ we requested the coachman to make 
himself busy in driving us far round-about for one or two 
hours, prior to directing his course to the Factory. In this 
short, yet quite full excursion, I am not aware that we saw 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 125 

anything but in confirmation of what I have already ex- 
pressed in my previous letters with reference to Tepic. 
Riding through Mexican cities, except at evening, sensibly 
reminds one of a city of prisons ; the thick walls, strong 
doors, and iron gratings for windows, adding to that effect. 
The hlues are if I mistake not, a common complaint in 
Mexico ; and I should not be surprised if such mansions 
for the figurative deed were not instrumental in the unique 
promotion of that disease. 

Resuming our drive as intended, to the Factory, we 
soon passed from the Plaza rather north-west of the city, 
and through the environs where poorer but honest classes 
dwell ; and even where the thieves, ladrones and pickpock- 
ets hold forth their haunts in hellish planning, and watch the 
movements available for the commission of marauding ex- 
cursions and acquisitions. 

Passing along at a slow trot for the purpose of observing, 
we soon reached the bed of a comparatively dry creek, and 
in our descent to it we found the surface of the bed consid- 
erably broken ; and after our passage over its stony cavity, 
we struck a somewhat higher and more even surface, and 
then riding along leisurely we soon came up to the boun- 
dary and entrance of the Factory premises. The walls on 
either side are strong, and the gate ostensibly indicates la- 
bor and skill in the construction of its parts. Near the 
gate there is a watch-house where a sentinel, who, if sus- 
picion is awakened by any overt acts of parties coming 
here, reports it by a faithful discharge of a gun, and this 
causes the factory people to be on the alert, and prepared 
for emergencies. The road from this to the establishment 
is one-half mile and is well macadamized, so that a carriage 
plays off easily over the bridge which covers the stream 
used for thr propulsion of the whole apparatus of the fac- 
tory, and other mechanical appurtenances. The form of 



126 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

the ground about the factory is somewhat elliptic ; and the 
surface rough, and that too, on both sides of the rivulet, 
which is encompassed by high hills, with the exception of 
the narrow gulch that serves as a passage for a private 
road leading to a cotton factory, still farther below and on 
the same stream. The whole establishment is thus en- 
closed by high stone walls. The great object of the wall 
is self-protection against incursions liable to be made upon 
the factory by the ladrones, who would either set it on fire, 
or sack and plunder it of the new made fabrics, and then 
fire it through natural malevolence. 

The factory building is two hundred feet by two hun- 
dred, in the form of a square, with a court-yard in the cen- 
ter, one hundred feet by one hundred, in the same form ; 
so that the apartments on either side are fifty feet wide, 
and as long as the objects for which they are designed, 
may necessarily require. The Superintendent of the whole 
establishment is Senor Collier, who more or less hence- 
forward, will require the special or casual notice of my pen 
in my description of Tepic. The garden near the factory 
and attached to it rather as an ornament, is also under his 
supervision, and it will soon require specific notice in car- 
rying out the full intention of these letters. The factory 
is a building of two stories high, consisting of thick walls, 
numerous doors and windows adapted for convenience and 
light, and finally, rooms and apartments requisite for the 
labors and locomotion usually performed and endured in 
like establishments elsewhere. 

The Superintendent informed me while I was here on 
this visit, that there were different mechanical shops con- 
nected with this factory, and possessing skillful machinists, 
that had proved themselves adapted to the full performance 
of any work necessarily required to complete such an appa- 
ratus. Th« cost of such machinerv delivered from the 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 127 

nearest Mexican port, must have been attended with out- 
lays enough to dampen the fire even of the most selfish, if 
not the farthest-sighted. The locomotive powers applied 
to the movement of this whole apparatus from day to day 
during the year, consist of two water wheels forty feet in 
diameter, having at all seasons a sufficient volume of water 
for the execution of the objects of the factory. The ma- 
sonry of the dam, the flume and the canal for carrying off 
the waste water, as well as the hutments, arches, and the 
foundation of the whole building, indicates a solid perma- 
nency and a skillfulness in the adjustment of its stones, 
which mechanics of this class in far more favored countries 
seldom equal and never excel. The roof of this establish- 
ment is constructed in the same manner as those of solid 
and durable buildings are generally in this country. The 
walls extend three feet above the level of the roof, and are 
two feet thick as below ; these are then plastered over with 
a species of ^hydraulic cement, which renders them a solid 
mass. This roof thus constructed has on it every night a 
watchful sentinel with a carbine on his shoulder to give the 
alarm ; and in times of threatening danger, it is garrisoned 
with a sufficient quantity of artillery and men to protect 
the place at night or day quite securely against freeboot- 
ers, within the range of five hundred yards. Attached to 
the factory there is a cotton-gin imported from the United 
States, which is as necessary an accompaniment in this 
strange country, where cotton planters have never seen one, 
as cards to the adjustment of cotton rolls, or the spindle to 
the making of thread. 

My admiration I must confess, when I had taken a full 
survey of the apartments adapted for spindles and looms, 
was sensibly affected to behold here a system of labor pur- 
sued and executed of which the most enlightened should 
be justly proud. That admiration and my aatonishment 



128 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

were greatly enhanced when I had paused a moment and 
fully considered the present and past condition of this people; 
for in these apartments each Mexican operative seemed to 
be trained to the exercise of a good degree of practical 
reason and intelligence. The class of Mexicans in this 
factory consist mostly of those tinged with various shades 
of complexion, except that which would characterise them 
for white ; therefore from this view of them arose my ad- 
miration and astonishment. 

As I was informed by the Superintendent, the number of 
looms employed in the factory does not exceed one hundred 
and ten, and the other appurtenances for keeping the looms 
continually in operation are in the same proportion. With 
reference to the number of Mexican operatives, and of for- 
eign mechanics and machinists, under the superintendence 
of Senor Collier, there are two hundred of the former and 
ten of the latter, who are native born Americans, and mostly 
represent the Old Bay State. As near as I could learn, 
these Americans are good, peaceable, sober and intelligent 
gentlemen, who are generally treated well by the Mexicans, 
and who observe those rules of courtesy towards them in 
return in Topic, as should characterize Americans in any 
foreign land. 

The expense attached to running this establishment per 
week, I have been told, amounts to near twelve hundred 
dollars, aside from the purchase of the raw cotton. Most 
of the cotton used here is the growth of a foreign culture ; 
yet, of late years, some attention is paid to the growing of 
cotton on the bottom lands of el Rio de Santiago, and not 
far from the coast between San Bias and the port of Man- 
zanillo. Native cotton of fine fibre and clean, is generally 
worth five cents a pound in the seed ; although sometimes, 
it is not so high. Cotton domestics manufactured in this 
Factory bear the medium price of twenty-five cents per 
yard ; though higher and lower at times. The firm of 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 129 

Barron & Forbes are in the habit of sending directly to 
Peru, which source of getting most of their present supplies 
of fine cotton they have not, as I am informed, yet aban- 
doned. To an American accustomed, as I have been, to 
living in a cHmate congenial to the culture of this staple, 
and seeing men there active and industrious in the rapid 
advancemetit not only of their own interest, but that of one 
common country, by being producers, it seems really a 
waste of God's fertile earth, within the tropics and the most 
congenial climate to the full development of such produc- 
tions, to behold here a scarcity — a want of such supplies, 
and the necessity of sending to foreign lands to fill home 
demands ! And what are these home demands with refer- 
ence to cotton ? They are simply made to consist of the 
precious materials which are manufactured into cloths, to 
hide nakedness and warm the human system ! 

A people to be rich, prosperous and happy in reality, 
should cultivate, if practicable, all the absolute necessaries 
of life for consumption, and the raw materials requisite for 
garments ; and if they cannot, they should cultivate what 
they can possibly, and then manufacture what they have 
grown, and pursue commerce. For the accomplishment of 
these great national considerations, it is absolutely necessa- 
ry to be industrious ; and moreover, it is of paramount im- 
portance that this industry should be protected by good, 
wholesome, and liberal laws duly executed under the safe- 
guards embodied in the concession of natural powers, or 
private rights. 

Fearing I may weary your patience too much, amigo 
mio, I will allow you a short rest ere I resume your atten- 
tion. 

Adios, 

Sefior, 

Agricola. 

CmCINNATUS. 



130 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XXVin. 

Pleasure Ground near the Factory— Its Ornaments— Fountain -with Gold Fish— 
Residence of SeSor Collier and Family— Effect of Climate on the WTiite Bace— 
Their Mode ofLiYing—Fruits— Hospitality of SeSor Collier— Other Americans. 

Amigo Mio : — Again I resume my pen in this distant 
land to be the medium of intelligence to you, my most 
indulgent friend. 

Opposite to, and east of the factory, is a stone wall with 
a fine yet substantial gate for the entrance, leading into a 
beautiful garden, consisting of five acres of rich earth, and 
laid out in a manner truly tasteful and elegant. This high 
wall extends around the whole of the pleasure-ground, 
which on first observing the situation, indicates something 
of durability. There is one promenade extending around 
the inside of the garden, yet near to the wall, intervening 
which and the walk a beautiful rill of clear water is let 
in at pleasure, and runs its gentle course over small peb- 
bles of various shapes and hues, ever ready to moisten and 
nourish the fertile ground. In passing through this pleas- 
ure-ground where this shonld seem to conflict with the even 
design of the walk, brick arclies are gracefully turned over 
it to enhance surrounding beauty and a covenience to the 
pleasure of promenading. There are two other walks 
extending through this retreat of honorable pride, which 



OF THE MEXCIAN CORDILLERA. 131 

correspond with the cardinal points of the compass, dividing 
the ground into four equal compartments. Besides these 
walks which are eight feet wide, I beheld in observing 
more particularly, these four squares laid out with regular 
curve walks five feet wide, and uniting with the others at 
right angles. Small pebble stones are covered over the 
surface of each promenade. Grass, always kept green, 
tinges selected spots over this surface, and fringing the bor- 
ders of all these walks, it unites with the choice and pecu- 
liar collection of plants, shrubs and trees within, from Asia, 
Europe, the Islands of the Atlantic, different parts of Amer- 
ica, the Islands of the Pacific, Australia, and, I should not 
omit in this, Africa. Standing in the midst of this beauti- 
ful spot, near a playful fountain of crystal water, and sur- 
rounded by the rare growths which nature, in her great 
laboratory, is constantly producing, and has been made from 
different quarters of the earth to contribute here by the 
science of navigation and of vital retention in plants, to a 
captious, yet refined sensibility, — I could not but admire 
and applaud in my own mind, the delicate taste displayed in 
the adjustment of these far brought productions. I must 
own I was most happily pleased to observe more closely 
this taste in the arrangement of those plants requiring the 
most care, and the promiscuous, forest-like adjustment of 
those trees which tower not too high, yet sufiiciently lofty 
to combine due proportions. These natives and exotics are 
either evergreen by nature, or are kept so by the remarka- 
ble evenness of the temperature, and irrigation when re- 
quired during the dry season. 

Among this rare and beautiful collection, which struck 
most impressively my acquaintanceship with their kinds, I 
noticed the climbing and Castillian rose bushes, daisies, hy- 
acinths, myrtles, junipers, and palms, with pinks of various 
shades of color, 'showing a peculiar and unique impregna- 



132 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

tion. Near the Siberian cedar and crab, I saw the cocoa, 
palm, the northern spy, the orange, the lime, tamarind and 
citron trees. Near the cedar of Lebanon, I saw the aca- 
cia, the different species of custard apple, the cacao, and 
coffee trees, with the fruit-bearing plants the plantain and 
banana. Each of these plants, shrubs and trees, has its 
respective spot in contributing to the general emLellishment 
of this pleasure ground. There also, I saw successfully 
cultivated the British Queen strawberry plants, which begin 
to give their fruit the first of March ; and with care, being 
properly shaded when too warm, and watered when too 
dry, they might be made almost a continuous luxury for ta- 
ble use. Near the center of the garden, there is a reser- 
voir of pure, yet perhaps not holy water, tc n feet deep and 
twenty feet wide, made of masonry, in tho form of a circle, 
solid and well cemented. This fountain is fed by an under 
current, which emanates from the Factoi y stream, and has 
a descent of twenty feet ; and through a brass tube having 
a boss on the end, which is perforated with holes, jets are 
made to ascend the height of its source, which play in the 
air most beautifully, and when fallinf»: they dart off in all 
directions, presenting miniature rainbows and showers, that 
greatly enhance the whole scene. In this fountain, I saw 
the gold fish, so called from their bi illiant color in resem- 
blance to that precious metal. They seemed unbounded in 
the peculiarity of their graceful, ;^et easy evolutions, so 
common to them, and perfectly delighted in their small yet 
natural prison element ; for these were all young ones, — 
the progenitors having died shortly after tjansition and giv- 
ing natality to this young and brilliant progeny, numbering 
near twenty in all. 

Many ladies and gentlemen, and n any uf those who might 
be ranked among the scum of God's creation, come hither 
in carriages, costly and fashionable ; while others, if there 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 133 

is a pedigree in the history of carriages, might date their 
uniqueness to immemorial time for archetypes. In this 
spot, adorned with foresight and protective care, these sev- 
eral classes seem to enjoy the gay, the beautiful, and busy 
scene of the Factory, with all its appurtenances, and the 
garden with all its collections and symmetrical arrange- 
ments, crowned by the vocal music of unceasing warblers, 
clad in the plumage of many hues, and hopping from limb 
to limb, and from tree to tree, indicating all the playful ev- 
olutions and varied notes of refined animal instinct. 

Opposite to the Factory, though on the north side, with 
a private road betw een, is the residence of "Wm. Collier, 
Esq., the Superintendent. He is married to an American 
lady of the city of Philadelphia, in the State of Pennsyl- 
vania. Several years since, he was married, and has now 
a family of six childr('n born here. Most commonly they 
are healthy ; however, during the rainy season, Serior Col- 
lier informed me there were some cases of the chills and 
fever. "Without doubt, the countenance becomes percepti- 
bly tinged within the tri pics, except by great care constant- 
ly and thoughtfully exercised ; but not so, as some inconsid- 
erate enthusiasts endeavor to hold forth, as to make a negro 
race out of a white one ; for even here, the new born child 
of white parents, turns up white also ! I found Mrs. Col- 
lier rather ill, suffering i rom the neuralgia, and also the 
paralysis in her arms, yet able to sit up part of the time, 
and converse with me rt^specting the prosperity of, and 
rapid advancement made in the United States, embracing 
a more complete developmvint of the arts and sciences, and 
in rendering them subservient to supply the real or imagin- 
ary wants of man. She drew many comparisons between 
the two countries ; seemed to be well informed as to the 
general concernments of her father-land ; and often she 
had sighed to be there, though interest prompted her to tar- 
ry in another land for a while. 



134 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Mrs. Collier has a lone sister living with her for a time, 
though she is married to Capt. Hale. This gentleman has 
been for a short period, engaged in trade on the Pacific 
coast, from Valparaiso to San Francisco. Senoras Collier 
and Hale, are accomplished and intelligent ladies, and hav- 
ing a good collection of English and Spanish books, they 
indulge themselves in reading what is food for the mind, 
and thus do their husbands interest and instruct themselves 
when their business permits. Their dwelling house is fur- 
nished most tastefully, with all that really adds neatness 
and welcomeness to home, and secures a good man there. 
Americans having lived for a long time in a foreign coun- 
try, are very apt to adopt somewhat the mode of living and 
cooking which the Creoles of that country usually practice. 

While here, I noticed some new dishes which are not 
much in use in the United States ; such as guava, plantains 
and bananas stewed, fried or baked ; and that meats and 
bread were rather bordering on the mode of living pursued 
by the upper class of Mexicans. Some of their cookery 
consist of the following : Tortilla, pan de huevos, ensalada 
de tortilla, ensalada de carne, arroz de carne, quesadillas, 
sopa de pan, ensalada de piscada de tierra, and pan de 
trigo. Ensalada is composed of Chili peppers, fat, cheese, 
onions, or garlics, water, and sometimes tomatos, all stewed 
together. Their conserves or las conservas de los Mexi- 
canos are frequently made out of the fruit of the banana, 
which is boiled to the consistency of paste, and then taken 
from the kettle and put into a tray where it is kneaded 
with whitish sugar till it assumes a glutinous form ; then it 
is taken out and put into small wooden boxes neatly made, 
and offered for sale under the name of " la conserva de ba- 
nana de Mejicmia" In this conserve I noticed properties 
adapted to nurture the human system, far beyond what 
one's reasonable presumption would lead him to conceive 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 135 

in this plant. For my own part, I am fond of a variety of 
dishes at diiFerent tim,es, and think that a plenty of cooked 
fruit at all times, is intended by Providence to be highly 
promotive of good health and elastic constitutions. 

While contemplating the residence of Senor Collier, I 
must not omit to acknowledge those kind and individual 
attentions so fully expressed, which enliven the lone heart 
and which make an American in a foreign land feel proud 
of his countrymen. Scarcely an American passes through 
Tepic, but he is made to feel those cordial and generous 
hearts that throb in the often threatened, yet happy home 
just mentioned. In the city of Tepic at the Hotel, and 
near the house of Barron & Forbes, I had the pleasure of 
becoming acquainted with Dr. Cleaveland, and another 
Capt. Hale, who is also engaged in trade on the coast* 
These gentlemen are Americans, and so far as I could 
observe, they were bland, affable, and courteous ; and ap- 
peared to be attentive to their respective avocations. 

This personage I did not become acquainted with while 
in Tepic ; it is the wife of Senor Forbes, a Mexican lady 
and a good catholic. I, am told that she has but few equals 
in the Republic of Mexico, who can compare with her for 
the unostentatious display of her many virtues, and kind 
womanly offices to the poor, sick, and decrepid, in the re- 
gion which comes within her reach. 
Adios, 

Senor, 

Agricola. 

* * CiNCINNATUS. 



136 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTEE XXIX. 

Intent of these Letters— Ladrones-Eiimity between the House of Barron <fc Forbes 
and that of Castanos— Eise of Comonfort— Principles governing him— Their 
growth in Tepic— Escape of Barron & Forbes from Tepic— Alertness of the Cas- 
taSos Party— An attempt to ship Money without paying the Inland Duties- 
Dangerous for Americans at the Factory in the "Winter of 1855-6— Attack of La- 
drones on SeSors Collier and Hale, in the Stage, going to San Bias— Objects of 
it— Its Discovery and consequence on SeSor Collier— Reported Conspiracy in 
Tepic, while there in March, 1856. 

Amigo Mio : — It is mj purpose in these letters, amigo, 
to be solely the medium of information ; let that informa- 
tion eminate from, or touch whatsoever object or person or 
persons it might. However, with reference to poHtical 
antagonists, malcontents and revolutionists, so far as I may 
deem it necessary or interesting, I intend to impart the 
grounds each party assumes, without the advancement of 
my own opinion, except in such case as I may feel myself 
fully warranted from the sources of information presented 
to my notice. In a previous letter, when about to take the 
stage at San Bias, to find my way into the interior, I men- 
tioned that we, composed of the party with me, heard on 
our arrival at this port that the stage had been attacked 
only a few days prior to that time, and that too, within the 
sound of fire-arms from Tepic ; and also our decision and 
determination to meet the consequences, come as they 
might. Before this period, I had mentioned two poUtical 
parties and two commercial houses in Tepic, that have ever 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 137 

been at swords' point, even more than an age past. The 
names of these houses are that of Barron & Forbes and 
that of Castaiios. The former house has ever been a 
strong supporter of Gen. Santa Anna's party, — and the lat- 
ter the firm backer of opposite political aspirants. 

It is for the historian's pen to eke out the relative or 
absolute merits of those who have been, and of him who 
is swaying the destinies of these people, whether for weal 
or woe ; but not for mine so generally. I have here a 
special object only in view. 

As General Comonfort departed from the discharge of 
his official functions in the Custom House at Acapulco, and 
assumed the badge of distinguishment, — ^he arose under the 
auspices of the old and wily hero, Gen. Alvarez, also near 
that port, in^tJie early part of the year 1855, and soon 
becoming known and distinguished apart from Gen. Alva- 
rez, he took city after city in the tide of his march, and 
playing with Alcaldes as puppets to fill his political aspi- 
rations, he made easy terms with the occupants, demand- 
ing of them but what stern necessity enforced him to 
request, in order to carry out his measures of reform. The 
liberal and political principles espoused and openly express- 
ed by Gen. "Comonfort, quickly spread over the fair yet tax- 
ridden plains of Anahuac, like the spark that touches the 
vast pampas, and slowly kindling, soon with its indomitable 
surgings, overwhelms man and animal in (^q universal con- 
sternation ; thus the party then in power, that of Gen. 
Santa Anna, had risen and spread their influence over the 
country, which now began to falter and grow remarkably 
unpopular with the masses of the people ; for it was far 
more opposed to the popular rights and privileges than that 
fast rising to its zenith, in order to effect a general over- 
throw of past anarchy. 

Tliis political ferment and reformation immediately took 



138 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

root in Tepic, and grew to the size of a most sturdy oak, 
which as yet, the chill winds nor the northern blasts have 
influenced to change its verdure. As near as I could learn 
from my informant, with refence to this matter in Tepic on 
both sides, I feel it a duty and a moral right to make 
known to the public through the medium of you, Agricola. 
My informant states that last Fall, (1855) the firm of Bar- 
ron & Forbes, being desirous of making a large shipment 
of silver out of the country, to San Francisco, where it was 
worth ten per cent, premium, without paying the inland 
duty of ten per cent, on the w^hole amount, which would 
have made the sum due the government, forty thousand 
dollars, they had resource to old practices, that of bribing 
or endeavoring to bribe the collector of the interior, by 
paying him a small pittance to let the silver pass out unno- 
ticed. The Comonfort party being constantly on the alert, 
and ever ready to take all the advantages which the new 
organization of the goverment would barely warrant, — 
became informed of the intention of Barron & Forbes ; 
and aware of the inimical hatred expressed by the Santa 
Anna party to this reform, — they pursued with redoubled 
vigor and alertness the designs of the new government to 
collect its inland duties. 

As my informant states, the collector was bribed and 
engaged to depart the city a few days on a trip of pleasure 
or supposable business, till full arrangements with regard 
to this shipment could be made and executed. Being some- 
what afraid that their plans might miscarry, this firm had 
retained a force in their power and subject to their control, 
to act as emergencies might seem to require, while they 
were occupied in the execution of this large commercial 
operation. Their plans before executed fully, leaked out, 
and the Governor of the State of Jalisco, being at the cap- 
ital, Guadalajara, sent a military force to arrest this oper- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 139 

ation by seizing the intended shipment, and the principals 
engaged in the transaction, if possibly found. 

The sum of one hundred thousand dollars was seized 
and confiscated to public use ; but Barron and Forbes being 
made aware of the Governor's design to arrest them, niade 
their most fortunate escape to San Bias and effected an 
immediate departure for Mazatlan, where the political 
reform had not progressed so rapidly ; where there was a 
different state of feeling expressed towards these gentlemen 
from Tepic ; and where they were sojourning in March 
last, 1856, as expelled consuls, commercial representatives 
of Great Britain and the United States. 

Up to this time, no reconciliation had been effected 
between these parties ; but a disposition to widen the breach 
and make it almost irreparable has strongly manifested 
itself from the time of Barron and Forbes' departure for 
San Bias, ever since in the city of Tepic. This political 
and commercial animosity had run so high through the 
winter, and threatening dangers had become more appar- 
ent ; — and these supposed to emanate from irresponsible 
sources — that Sefior Collier deemed it so unsafe for his fam- 
ily at his residence near the Factory, in view of the many 
threats having been made against the Americans solely, 
who were engaged there, to the effect that at certain times 
they were all to be murdered, that he with his brother-in- 
law, Capt. Hale, took their families to San Bias, to be ready 
as the occasion and the emergency might dictate them to 
pursue. In a month afterwards, peace to some extent hav- 
ing been restored, as immediately and threatening dangers 
had apparently passed the cloudy horizon to give room for 
the flag of truce to come in, and mediate its good offices 
between a people of one kindred tie and blood, of one kin- 
dred language, and of one common interest, — Senor Col- 
lier and Hale thought it now safe to leave Tepic, in order 



140 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

to go to San Bias for their families. Accordingly, they got 
ready, arming themselves as usual in traveling fromjplace 
to place in this country, aud departed in the stage at eleven 
o'clock at night for San Bias. They had scarcely passed 
the suburbs of the city, ere they were attacked by a band 
of ladrones, twenty in number ; the coach was fired through 
fifteen times, with a very slight injury to Senor Collier, — 
Senor Hale was seized and dragged out of the stage and 
somewhat bruised, and his pockets searched closely, and an 
attempt to search Senor Colher's was made, but the horses 
soon started, and so that object was averted. They were 
robbed of two gold watches worth four hundred dollars, 
besides guns, pistols, and clothing to the amount of two 
hundred dollars more. 

It was quite dark, and therefore it was rather difficult to 
recognise any of the robbers ; although their burnished 
carbines and lances too strongly indicated that they were 
no common ladrones. It was, at this time, supposed that 
Sefiors Collier and Hale were bearers of important des- 
patches to San Bias, to be conveyed to Barron & Forbes 
at Mazatlan. Whether this be true or not, I do not pre- 
tend to state ; therefore I have given its substance as I 
heard it. And under this impression, it has been believed 
by many intelligent ones, that the Comonfort or Castanos 
party were cognizant of the fact of this attack being con- 
templated on these two Americans, and in consequence of 
which they were believed to be accessory to the crime — 
that of plundering American citizens within the sound of 
gun-shot from one of their flourishing inland towns. How 
true this may be, or the amount of truth in it, I do not pre- 
tend to define ; but that it looks highly colorable with an 
avowed intent to do these gentlemen some particular harm, 
appears more than probable ; for they were alone in the 
stage, an incident for two to be alone, rarely common. The 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 141 

search having ended without making the ladrones any wiser, 
they were allowed to pass on, and arrived without further 
molestation in San Bias the next morning. If the la- 
drones had desired to kill these gentlemen, or treat them 
even more severely, no resistance on their part could have 
availed them anything. 

Having returned with their families to their residence 
near the Factory, and having exercised as much precau- 
tion as the circumstances of their peculiar position would 
indicate or warrant, the next object of these gentlemen was, 
as soon as practicable, to ascertain the actual names of the 
parties engaged in the robbery. In a few days afterwards, 
finding where some of the guns and pistols had been sold 
or pawned, they were thereby led to quite a full develop- 
ment of the entire scheme, showing the specific supposi- 
tions heretofore alluded to, to be satisfactorily correct. 
Several of the party engaged in the attack became alarmed, 
and offered to settle the matter before it was known gener- 
ally who the parties were ; but this arrangement did not 
meet the consent of the parties robbed, and therefore one 
of the chief leaders, a noted rascal at playing double 
handed games in political matters, was denounced by Senor 
Collier as being one of the party of said ladrones. The 
police authorities were bound to take notice of the fact as 
affirmed, and this necessarily connected the whole affair 
with the ruling party in Tepic. But a few days prior to 
this, a report of a conspiracy got up against this Tepic 
party, was pretended to have been discovered on Sunday 
evening, the formation of which, and the manner of acting, 
leaked out through an old lady ; and upon which report, 
immediate action was taken. Some twenty of the princi- 
pal citizens of the opposite party, were then incarcerated, 
and the entire population of the city thrown into general 
consternation. Seiior Collier was then at his residence, 



142 TRAVELS ON THE AVESTERN SLOPE 

attending to the numerous vocations which his duty as Su- 
perintendent of the Factory necessarily required of him. 
The Castafios or ruling party, having discovered the dilem- 
ma they had got the present administration in, now most 
patriotically desired to shake from themselves any respon- 
sibilities which might rise and flow from the circumstances 
of the case when made a knot of diplomatic contention, and 
an object of demand on the part of the United States' gov- 
ernment. For in the extension of her treaty stipulations 
over her citizens residing in foreign countries, she fully and 
absolutely guarantees their individual protection, and secu- 
rity in the peaceable enjoyment of their acquisitions. To 
effect these ends, the government of the United States ap- 
points generally efficient men as high officials, with special 
powers to watch, in foreign lands, her own interests and 
welfare, and those of her citizens. The ruling party in Te- 
pic, in order to compass the end alluded to, were instrumen- 
tal in having Senor Collier implicated in the conspiracy but 
shortly mentioned in a prior paragraph, and denounced by 
the ladrone, who, only a few days before, had been de- 
nounced by himself and imprisoned in el carcel de la ciudad 
by the police authorities. That the sufficiency of an oath 
of a robber, or one laboring under that accusation in the 
confines of a prison, could be received and acted upon in 
any civilized country, to the effijct of arresting a person, 
even supposed to be guilty, before the party denounced or 
accused is finally acquitted and restored to citizenship, is a 
question which should put a savage horde to the blush ! 

The case of Senor Collier tlius mooted, passed on till 
Tuesday night at 12 o'clock, when a policeman came to the 
gate of his residence, desiring to see him on pretended bus- 
iness ; his reply was couched in laconic terms, that there 
had been, and perhaps would be, day-light enough to trans- 
act ordinary business ; and as for any other, he was not 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 143 

aware that be had made himself obhgatory to any individ- 
ual. The policeman departed for the night, deeming him- 
self insufficient to wheedle Senor Collier into a snare at 
that time of the night ; though the next morning, another 
came with a request from the Alcalde, the chief of the po- 
lice, desiring Sefier Collier to repair to the city on special 
business, as if related to some concernment of pressing, vi- 
tal importance. 

When Senor Collier had arrived and presented himself 
to the Alcalde, he was informed more specifically o^ the de- 
nouncement made by the ladrone, whereupon he was cast 
into prison without a hearing ; without even being con- 
fronted by him who had made the charge of his having 
been connected with the conspiracy, and in fact, without 
any of the formal solemnities by the means of which a man 
could possibly know how to confront the allegations which, 
in a country like this, might be brought against him by the 
vicious and the pampered ! Senor Collier was not thrown 
into the common city prison, but into that in another part 
of the city, where the others accused of conspiracy were 
incarcerated. When he was taken from his home and em- 
ployment, his wife had been ill some time, and mostly con- 
fined to her sick chamber ; he himself had served the firm 
of Barron & Forbes in the special capacity of Superin- 
tendent of their cotton factory ; — ilot in that of a political 
intriguer or meddler with the affairs of the Government. 
He had lived near the city of Tepic for fifteen years, and 
had during that time borne an unblemished moral charac- 
ter ; and further he had never been known during his res- 
idence here, as having been, or being connected with either 
party of the Government ; but as throwing himself solely 
on the protection guaranteed by the treaty stipulations be- 
tween the two Governments. In a day or so after his im- 
prisonment, I was allowed the special privilege of visiting 



144 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

and holding conversation with him, though in the presence 
of three other room-mates, and of one of the Castanos fam- 
ily who understood English. Many questions were put to 
this Seiior Castanos with reference to the nature of the 
charges prefered against Senor Collier ; but nothing defi- 
nite could be inferred. When he was told that in any en- 
lightened country, the oath of a prisoner could not be taken 
until the guilt of that accusation was absolved from him, he 
simply replied that Mexicans were governed by circum- 
stances. When he was informed that the Mexican Gov- 
ernment would be made responsible for the attack made on 
Seiiors Collier and Hale, and for the false imprisonment 
of an innocent American citizen, he shrugged his shoul- 
ders and said that he did not know ; though he seemed 
somewhat surprised to think for a moment that the United 
States Government should hear of this case. Upon this, 
he was further informed that the United States had many 
children scattered over the earth among all nations ; and 
in case of their happening to live among civilized people, 
it was the policy of their government to fully watch over 
them by her international treaties and compacts entered 
into by the consenting parties, in the same manner, and as 
effectually as if they were living under the banner of many 
stars and stripes. Even this young Castanos, who seemed 
to be a gentleman of refined sensibility, could not as he 
frankly stated, belive Seiior Collier guilty of any offence ; 
but he observed that it had, at this critical conjuncture of 
pohtical affairs and intense municipal commotion, become 
necessary to gather evidence, to hear testimony, and decide 
with the weight of proof either in favor or disfavor. Never 
before was I in a prison where citizens for political offences 
had been incarcerated, and this present spectacle before me, 
taking a view of the whole matter, I must confess had a sad, 
sickening effect upon my spirits, to be sensible of the un- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLEEA. 145 

just imprisonment of one of my own countrymen, with 
twenty Mexicans of rank and character, confined in differ- 
ent apartments, under the strictest surveillance of Mexican 
guards. Not less than one hundred guards were on con- 
stant duty ; a cannon ever engineered for instant action at 
the entrance of the prison, and several others in the rear ; 
much ceremony was necessary before one could be permit- 
ted to see or converse with a friend ; and at night in ap- 
proaching within a square of the prison, the watch-word of 
the patrol was given, and it became absolutely necessary 
to respond satisfactorily to it, or stand still until he came 
up before passing on as intended. 
Adios, 

Senor, 
Agrtcola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



146 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XXX. 



Factory Operatives discharged "when SeSor Collier was Imprisoned— Its effects — 
Present at the Searching of the Factory — Appearance of the Soldiers— Govern- 
ment Appropriation of the Artilleiy for the Defense of the Factory— C elebratioii 
in Tepic of the taking of La Puebla— Military Parade on the occasion. March 
26th, 1856— General Review and Parade also the next Day— Thoughts as to them 
—Relations of Peones to Citizens— Their Slave-like appearance— Pittances paid 
to the Clergy— Market-time— Reason thereof— Provisions— Fruits-Prices of the 
same. 



Amigo Mio : — In consequence of the incarceration of 
Senor Collier, and his being under the strictest surveillance 
of Mexican military discipline, the cotton factory, and even 
the whole establishment including, was suspended by Senor 
AUsopp's discharging, on the morning of Senor Collier's 
arrest, all the operatives long inured to look there for daily 
meat and bread. 

This to the poor Mexican operatives, who had then no 
other means of subsistence, from their long continuation in 
this employment, was most truly the reception of a shock, 
not anticipated to rebound %o forcibly and eloquently ! 

I was present at this scene ; having arisen quite early 
for this country, I arrived there from town shortly after sun- 
rise. Suspicion was entertained by the Castafios' party, 
that one of the conspirators was working at the factory, and 
one, as reported, quite forward in the design to overthrow 
the ruling power in Tepic. Taking the report as true, a 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 147 

body of city guards, numbering fifty, all armed for the occa- 
sion with bayoneted carbines, came out to the factory under 
the head of the Captain of the city police, with full power 
to arrest even one man, if found. It was now near ten 
o'clock, and breakfast hour with a part of the family ; for 
Seaors Collier and Hale had departed before this for Tepic. 
The head machinist^ the brother of the Superintendent, 
boarding in his family for the society they might be to each 
other, was present with me at the table when these guards 
arrived, and the Captain placed a ragged, lousy, and sneak- 
ing Indian soldier at every avenue, entrance, and place to 
exercise more watchfulness. The first announcement we 
had of it was the sound of arms, as the horsemen redoubled 
their speed, to gain their respective positions. A soldier 
was stationed near the gate of Senor Collier's residence, 
ready to dispute the departure of any one wishing to go to 
the factory or the garden. I never before saw Mexican 
soldiers actively engaged to carry out an object ; and I 
must confess, they bear in their countenances, the ineviable 
marks and signs of a picturesque grimness, which death, in 
its last gaspings, would blush to imitate. 

Having made a most diligent search, during two hours, 
to discover the whereabouts of the person suspected of con- 
spiracy, they concluded to desist ; though not without taking 
from the factory all the artillery, which the firm of Barron 
& Forbes had purchased for the defence of their property. 
The whole establishment was then completely dismantled, 
and stood, in a country beautiful by nature, a model of bold 
and grand conception, yet now a stature, helpless and for- 
saken, at the mercy of the marauding ladrones who lurk 
about the city of Tepic, like vultures about the mountain 
flocks, in almost endless numbers, to sack and demolish 
where their caprice or avarice may mark out a fertile spot 
for their fiendish actions. The artillery of Barron & Forbes, 



148 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

the trophies of the occasion, were borne into town triumph- 
antly, by the same shabby looking soldiers who had con- 
stituted the brave force in the seizure and confiscation of 
this private property, that which, in a country like this, 
forms the rampart, the bulwark in defence of invaded per- 
sonal rights ! 

I must not omit to mention that, nearly at the close of the 
month of March last, 1856, news of a brilliant character 
arrived in Tepic, to the effect that the army under General 
Comonfort had, but a short time previous to this, taken la 
Puebla, situated between the city Mexico and the port of 
Vera Cruz on the Gulf of Mexico, and noted in Bullock's 
time for being the hot-bed of Catholic priests. Near the 
north-east part of the city of Tepic, being close by the dry 
creek alluded to in my topographical letter respecting its 
site, several of the city ordnance were hauled out from their 
strong holds by virile force and soldier-like drudgery, to 
report the sad intelligence to some, and to others, the joy- 
ful news, of the victory won by the liberalists under Com- 
onfort, at la Puebla, over the self-conceited ramparts of his 
most inveterate enemies. In the accomplishment of this 
victory, several padres, in the midst of their hosts and 
legions, (though not of yore,) unfurhng and carrying aloft the 
banners of their Apostolic faith, and shouting aloud for vic- 
tory, lost their most holy lives ; for, in this struggle for the 
resurrection of man's primitive rights, the whole Mexican 
clergy have wielded a most gigantic power and influence to 
effect its ultimate overthrow and oblivion, and reinstate, in 
the twilight of departing sun-shine, papal darkness and 
tyranny ! Hence, night may again overshadow the fair and 
beautiful plains of Anahuac ! 

Many of the private, and all the public buildings in the 
city were illuminated ; — bonfires were constructed ; and the 
public square was more cared for than usual, being well lit 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 149 

up and promenaded by the gay, the intelligent and the re- 
tiring ; — and also, by ihsii fearful mixture which rises like 
a slow cancer, on the body politic, absorbing the life-blood 
of progress and improvement. I noticed that many of them 
hung their heads in mournful silence, thinking that misrule 
and priestcraft had arrived at the goal of their corruption, 
where, in connection with the general progress of events, a 
descent and reformation must be contested by the sword. 

The next day, the commanding officers at Tepic, sum- 
moned the military force to assemble at la plaza de armas, 
with the purpose of preparing for a review, and afterwards, 
march about the city in general parade. 

For Indian troops — I know no other epithets to distin- 
guish them by — ^they obeyed the word of command with ease 
and promptness ; passing through the simple evolutions of 
Mexican tactics in a manner indicative of aptness, skill, and 
willingness. A more motley, a more heterogeneous mass, 
and a more God-forsaken set of human forms, of almost 
every shade of color, I never before saw than this simple 
hearted, yet ferocious band of Mexican patriots, if I mistake 
not the application of this term, marching and counter- 
marching near la Fonda de Oro, — on the balcony of which 
I took my position, to observe the timed maneuvers of Mexi- 
can soldiery. 

When they had passed and got far beyond the reach of 
sight, I took my seat by the side of a large column, and 
throwing my feet on the balustrade, I sat musing in my own 
mind ; — how easy it was for a man of the least adaptability 
and shrewdness in the study of human nature, to mould 
those plastic forms to his designing will ! 

Many times, I have felt much amused to observe the re- 
lation of the country people to those in town, and the mode 
of paying homage to the shrine of their God. Most of 



# 



1B6 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

these people are peones, or mere laborers for the wealthier 
classes owning the land and living in the town ; and not 
uncommonly, the fee-simple of the land is invested in the 
clergy, to whom these peones pay a small rent. Though 
they are said to be free, and boast of their freedom, yet in 
every expression to which we can apply epithets of the Eng- 
lish language, they would appear to be slaves in the dis- 
charge of those offices peculiar to such in the bands of an 
organized community, adopting the principles in the rela- 
tionship of bondsmen. 

The period usually adopted for Mexican peones being in 
market, to dispose of their produce and manufactures of 
various kinds, I have noticed, is Sunday morning, which, 
it would be reasonable to suppose, is not wholly objection- 
able on the part of the pious and good clergy, who are then 
sure to get a small pittance bestowed on them, in the way 
of forgiving the sins of these poor market-men. For like 
many good and holy Christians, they most devoutly believe 
that these padres, clad in the sacred gown of the church, 
yet the most intriguing and stealthy politicians in the whole 
Republic of Mexico, have, by divine inspiration, the power 
of forgiving sins as often as they are committed ; provided, 
a sacred donation is offered in atonement. This really looks 
as if God, in his infinite wisdom and goodness, was in the 
habit of visiting the earth in some visional form after hav- 
ing pronounced it " good — yea, very good," and receiving 
gold from man, as if he did not own the whole creation ! 
There might be a political as well as politic question pro- 
pounded with regard to where this gold has, for ages, been 
deposited ; perhaps, though, it is securely safe in the hidden 
coffers of His most pious Vicegerents ! 

The reason of Sunday morning being the time chosen 
for marketing in most Mexican towns, struck me that it is 



OF THE MEXICAN COKDILLERA. 151 

a fashionable policy got up by the clergy, to make them- 
selves sure of obtaining these petty market gains. When, 
if the time were set for any other day, the leaching and ab- 
sorbing coffers of the church might not be so piously re- 
spected, nor so conveniently open to receive the golden 
toils of fair Anahuac. 

In Tepic, over the surface of the Plaza, bordering the 
promenades, these country market-men have their several 
productions spread on mats made of a species of Tule, near 
which they sit, either on a stool or on mother earth, seem- 
ingly indifferent as to their sitting posture, and staring at 
the passers-by with a longing and solicitous look, as if to 
wheedle and enchain them to the spot till they had despoiled 
them of their purses for holy purposes. It is not uncommon 
to see market-women also dispersed among the market- 
men, to season the occasion with their harmonious drollery. 

Beans, Chili pepper, onions, garlic, corn, Irish potatos, 
sweet potatos, lettuce, pumpkins, squashes, turnips, toma- 
tos, eggs, fowls of various kinds, young pigs, lambs, calves, 
fresh beef and pork, and fruits of various kinds, such as 
limes, oranges, plantains, bananas, and several species of 
the custard apple, and also chairs and earthen ware made 
in the country, including some foreign merchandise, abound 
in this market, and receive their respective spots, as I have 
before mentioned in this letter. The prices for most of 
these articles range nearly on a parallel with the prices in 
most parts of the United States for the same or similar 
ones. 

Among the several species of tropical fruits, I noticed 
the custard apple, which is most delicious ; it is cone shaped, 
twice the size of a goose egg, of a yellowish pulp, sweet 
and fragrant. I was told, when traveling within the trop- 
ical regions of Mexico, and on low altitudes, that any of 
the species of custard apple would prove injurious to a for- 



152 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

eigner just having come into the country, causing him to 
incur constipation, and then fever, common to such regions. 
Adios, 

Senor, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 153 



LETTEE XXXI. 

Distance to Colima from Tepic— Trail— Eich Soil— Ladrones— Kanchos y Haciendas 
— Productions— Forest Trees and Vines. 

Amigo Mio : — Ere I have taken leave of this region, 
carrying you in mind further from home, my pen will ac- 
company you on a short jaunt in a south-easterly direction 
towards Colima, from the city of Tepic, distant about sev- 
enty leagues. The only manner of traveling through this 
portion of country, either on business or to explore its fer- 
tile plains of small extent, its rolling hills, its jagged shapes 
of lengthened ridges, and its mountainous peaks, and record 
them upon the notes of time, is by trail, where mules tread 
in single and careful file, and that too, lonely and danger- 
ous. This trail is not much traveled ; commerce through 
this part having a few links to bind, and but little to receive, 
and still less to impart. In any other country, some atten- 
tion would have been paid ere this to have unbosomed such 
a vast, rich and tropical region, now comparatively buried 
in the decomposition of its own mouldering vegetation. 

With this natural view in mind as to this part, where 
tropical growth abounds in such a high state of perfection, 
it is a wonder that the fecundity of the earth is not furrow- 
ed by the plow, and made to receive those generous seeds, 
the productions of which are now most exclusively import- 



154 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

ed, and that, too, for immediate home consumption ; as cot- 
ton, for the manufacture of clothing. 

The serious apprehension of danger, with respect to 
traveling through the Jalisco and Colima territories, pro- 
ceeding from the scattered bands of ladrones, so commonly 
infesting every district, with the hope of stealthy gains, the 
loneliness of the trail, the rugged points and deep ravines, 
all conspire to drift the travel a circuitous route of near four 
hundred miles, by the way of Guadalajara, Zapotlan, and 
thence to Colima. Mexicans take this long route, and 
advise foreigners to do the same, seemingly not desirous 
of having their country explored by mind, nor capacity to 
judge ; or so supinely and intolerably inclined to inactivity, 
that they really conclude others have no more locomotion 
than themselves. 

Being anxious to travel farther into the interior, and 
make a circuit by the way of Guadalajara and Man- 
zanillo, I preferred the most traveled route, for the purpose 
of gaining more general information, though not chosen so 
much for safety ; for among the lower classes, consisting 
mostly of Indians and their compounds, I consider that 
there is little difference in any portion of the RepubKc, with 
reference to their natural thieving propensities being man- 
ifested or suppressed, as opportunity or policy might in- 
dicate. 

The intervening tract of country, both directly and indi- 
rectly between Topic and Colima, is divided into ranchos, 
or liaciendas, owned by the clergy and a few private indi- 
viduals ; thougli a small portion of this domain is yet pub- 
lic, and invested in the Mexican government, subject to 
grant. The proprietors live in towns and cities, not far 
distant, and form out many small fertile tracts, in their large 
possessions, for a low rent, taken in produce or in money. 
Here the tenants at will are under the special control of 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 155 

the proprietors, and are subject to a removal when they 
have taken their first sown or planted produce off. But 
tenants for years are more independent, and plant and sow 
what they please, and are, in proportion to the amount of 
labor expended, remarkably prosperous ; and they, like 
tenants for a term of years, not only plant annual seeds and 
growths, but they set out plants and trees, which take much 
time for them to arrive at maturity. A reasonable time, 
and a reasonable recompense are, by the rules of the civil 
law, and customs of policy, guaranteed to such occupants ; 
though seldom, I have heard of litigation arising from the 
inattention of the proprietors to collect their rental dues, 
and though the tenants had been years in peaceable pos- 
session. 

This information touching a region of country over which 
foreigners have seldom or never trod, was obtained by con- 
versing with an intelligent Mexican, who had traveled it over 
many times, and who seemed to be well acquainted with 
its general figure and productions. La vista general de 
esta pais presents in an eminent degree the natural simili- 
tudes which I have already alluded to ; and the produc- 
tions are on a small scale, consisting of such vegetables 
and fruits as were previously mentioned in the market at 
Tepic. 

The agricultural growths are limited, and consist of 
sugar and cotton ; the forests abound in valuable dye-wood, 
and furnish fine finishing and cabinet lumber for home use 
and exportation, along the coast and in the interior, in 
proximity to the sea ports of San Bias and Manzanillo. 
This branch of industry is represented as rewarding amply 
those who immerge into the wilds of forest shades, and 
bring their work to light. On the coast between these two 
ports, no stream of moment flows into the ocean, yet I was 
told that there were some small inlets or coves where 



156 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

smuggling is not unfrequently pursued. Yet this part 
abounds to a great extent with indigenous palm trees, out 
of which the well known palm oil is manufactured ; which 
subject I will more fully remark upon when I shall have 
journied with you on my circuit to Manzanillo, where these 
trees flourish in great perfection and exuberance, extend- 
ing over millions of acres, contiguous to the coast. 

Sarsaparilla is another natural production incidental to 
this region, in which these forests abound most plentifully ; 
and which, of late years, has been of growing importance 
to commerce, and noted in the medicinal vocabulary for its 
soothing and remedial properties, even in cases of severe 
pulmonarg complaints. This plant I shall allude to again 
when at Colima. 

Adios, 

Sefior, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. * 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 157 



LETTER XXXII. 

Thought of leaving Tepic for Guadalajara— Eich surrounding Country— The Aspect 
and Productions near Tepic— Distance— Departure at 11 o'clock at night, in the 
Stage— Previous Precaution— Senor Augsburgh and Family— Thick Fog— Scen- 
ery— Agriculture— First Station, its Aspect— Second Station, its Peculiarities 
and Buildings. 

Amigo Mio : — Being still at Tepic, and having observed 
much with reference to a region of country which may, 
from its uniqueness and picturesque scenery in rich and 
beautiful vallies and mountain landscapes, strike you favor- 
ably, (though I trust not wholly so) and hold forth induce- 
ments to fearless and hardy adventurers, I shall now 
wave any further details of this part of fair Anahuac, till I 
conclude these letters-, when it will be my intention to briefly 
recapitulate my ground; touching and investigating the 
historic, civil and scientific field lying on the western slope 
of esta Cordillera. 

Notwithstanding the novelty and information arising from 
travel in this strange and often distracted country by intes- 
tine commotions — the result of revolutionists and ladrones. 
and that too, in the richest and most cultivated portions — I 
must confess that I have often felt an inward reluctance to 
set out again renewing my explorations and encountering 
anticipated dangers, especially after having enjoyed a fine 
climate and the luxurious comforts embraced in some of 
the beautiful cities of western Mexico. Here the aroma, 



158 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

rich in nature's crystal urns, arising from mountain flowers, 
plants and trees ; also from the fields of coffee trees, sugar 
cane, plantains, bananas, cotton and maize, conspiring to 
make fragrant the scene, I inhaled with a grateful sensa- 
tion in thanks fully and feelingly expressed to the Great 
Cause, for these many peculiar and useful bestowments 
upon man. 

These incidents though small, include much ; and I men- 
tion them to show the peculiar adaptations of this region, 
and how grateful man should feel to be assigned this, his 
happy and bountiful lot here below — comparing it with the 
frosts of Lapland or the bleak winds of Greenland's icy 
fields. Here the fertile field is sown and harvested, or na- 
ture, in her prolific and seed-bearing bosom, plants the de- 
sired spot, and man lifts his eyes and plucks the fruit ; but 
there nature seems shrouded in the forbidding aspect of her 
own dreary solitudes ; — hence her vegetation is unmatured 
for man, and her supplies are small at best, and her sons and 
daughters have to seek a loathsome and precarious subsist- 
ence. 

My mind being made up to leave the city of Tepic for 
that of Guadalajara, near two hundred miles in the interior, 
I had learned that I could avail myself of traveling in 
company with Senor Augsburgh and family, the French 
Consul for these cities, or rather the whole State of Jalisco, 
who had hired the stage on this occasion for his own use, 
but without filling all the seats, I embraced it readily, hav- 
ing previously heard too much of the dangers of the way 
to venture compatively with Mexicans alone, or without 
company well prepared to meet incidental emergencies. 
The necessary arrangements for this tedious journey hav- 
ing been effected, and taking a final farewell of my friends 
and acquaintances of recent date, I took myself to rest till 
the hour of eleven o'clock had nearly arrived. This is the 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 159 

Mexican set hour for leaving cities by stage, which we al- 
most instinctively obeyed, yet with dismal forebodings as to 
our personal safety ; wending our devious way over the sto- 
ny streets, which seemed to jar the very construction of the 
coach ; the mules six in number being on a full bound. 
Senor Augsburgh, I soon discovered, possessed in a high 
degree those peculiar , Germanic characteristics, which, 
rather slow in being moulded to acquaintanceship, yet when 
knowingly tapped were warm, cordial, congenial and in- 
structive. He is a German merchant of wealth and high 
respectability, and has lived in the Republic of Mexico ten 
or more years, following commercial pursuits in both Tepic 
and Guadalajara. Not many years since, he became en- 
grafted to a Mexican lady of an intelligent aspect and cor- 
dial heart, in the city of Tepic, where she loves to go oc- 
casionally to see her relations and attend to her patrimony. 
Thus Senor Augsburgh resides alternately in either city, 
though prompted by motives to perpetuate the health of his 
family, he prefers la tierra templada surrounding the city 
of Guadalajara to la tierra calienta a cercd, Tepic ; hence 
he resides mostly in the former, and at a country villa a 
few miles out of the city. 

In departing from Tepic we were all cautious to be well 
armed, having in and on the coach one hundred rounds of 
ball, in a species of artillery which would have been fear- 
lessly aimed and discharged had there been any necessity 
in an attempt to the application of them. 

The early part of the night was of a bright star-light ; 
and the city of Tepic with her dusky sentinels patroling 
the streets, and every half hour exclaiming to the full 
height of their rough voices, " Bien es todas, la ciudad Dios 
consecre,^' as the occasion seemed to require, forcibly re- 
minded me that, though I might be among the sleeping 
tombs of the dead, yet there were a few wakeful passen- 



160 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

gers who had not gone on their dark or sunny way, weep- 
ing or rejoicing. Near midnight a thick fog had spread its 
misty mantle over this fragrant region, shedding almost a 
cool and gentle shower for a time, even penetrating my se- 
rape, and falling from my eye-lashes and face in bountiful 
and crystal-like drops. This at first greatly bedimmed my 
sight and the extent of my visional observations ; though I 
discovered that it was nearly a level, or a gently undula- 
ting surface we were passing over. In fact the general 
aspect of this region so far as my eye could extend through 
the dim mist, till our arrival at the first station, presented 
of varied beauty, a scenery teeming with cots, trees, and a 
substantial enclosure along the road for many a mile, en- 
compassed with heavy and high stone walls on either side. 
It was in the month of April I passed, and near the road 
in this spacious field at either view, I saw bands of mules, 
horses, cattle, sheep, goats and hogs herding promiscuously. 
Observing this enclosure, and that nothing had been plant- 
ed in it, as the time for planting in the temperate zone had 
just begun or was drawing to a close, especially in the 
south of the United States, I was naturally led to en- 
quire why this was not plowed for planting ? I was res- 
ponded to intelligently, that the Mexicans never forced a 
bountiful supply, and scarcely made use of the regular 
planting seasons as they approached. Moreover, I was in- 
formed that the rainy season would set in during the latter 
part of May or the first of June, and then after the crude 
manner of Mexican agriculture, this vast enclosure would 
perhaps be planted with cotton ; rice ; maize, the staff* of the 
Mexicans ; pumpkins ; squashes ; and a full variety of 
Mexican plants and vegetables susceptible of maturing 
within the season required for the aforesaid specific pro- 
ductions. In most of the fertile portions of Anahuac, on 
the western slope of the Cordillera, the dry season contin- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 160 

ues too long for the husbandmen to successfully grow many 
of the long-seasoned staples ; such as coffee, cotton, sugar- 
cane, and rice, without having at their will the most ample 
means of irrigation ; though, would the Mexican agricul- 
turists and gentlemen of means adopt the system of Arte- 
sian well boring so extensively pursued by the Ameri cans 
in the State of California, particularly in the valley of San 
Jose, they might live in a country abounding in perennial 
verdure and bloom.. 

The drive to the first station, being la Hacienda de Trigo- 
mel, took but a short time, the distance being ten miles only 
from the city, and the mules let go at the height of their speed. 
Having arrived, I immediately descended from my seat 
on the top of the coach, where in traveling through Mex- 
ican States I have usually chosen to sit, in order to be on 
the alert for coming danger ; and having straightened my- 
self for a moment, and taking a quick glance at the prem- 
ises around the station, I discovered that there were only 
a few Indian huts or cots in proximity with la casa de el 
Superintendente, — the proprietor of the soil living in the 
city. 

In a few moments we were all ready por paseando^ as it 
takes the Mexican hostlers a short time only at the stations, 
to regulate their relays, and be in readiness to meet the 
anticipations of the vao^t fastidious and go-ahead traveller. 
The same aspect near the road and at a distance, with roll- 
ing hills and mountain peaks, presented itself to the trav- 
eler's thoughtful vision, as had in arriving at the first sta- 
tion ; though of the two, this appeared most broken on 
approaching the second station, twenty-one miles from the 
city, which is called la Hacienda de Labor. The fog had 
now nearly lost itself in the constant absorption of earth's 
unslaking thirst ; and the night, having been more than 
half spent in a dreary and watery shroud, was then resum- 
G 



162 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

ing its silvery gems to light up awhile, and delight us with 
the scenerj around, and which we were about to pass 
through. Near this station I saw a large and well conduc- 
ted Hacienda dwelling, which, en la vista general, more 
resembles some antique castle with its cots and dilapidated 
outbuildings, of which we have often read in descriptions 
of European fortresses in times of yore, than any order of 
architecture of a more modern date. It stood alone upon 
a slight elevation, almost solitary, and truly with nothing 
companionable about, occupying an area of two thousand 
four hundred feet, and being two stories high, and also orna- 
mented with heavy columns, arches, balconies, balustrades, 
large and heavy doors and iron gratings for windows, and 
having a wall three feet thick with a terraced roof and a 
parapet near three feet high above its surface. 

Being wearied of wielding the pen for the present, and 
feeling a desire to open a new account with you ; though 
following the same descriptive thread, and to relax from 
care ; I presume that this motion you will not waive, since 
it emanates from so generous yet ihoughtfid a friend. 
Adios, 

Senor, 

Agricola. 

ClNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 168 



LETTER XXXIII. 

Population of La Labor— Indian Character— Traveling Speed— Hacienda de San Leo- 
nel— Aspect— Soil— Productions— El Rancho de Mirador— Its Population— Ean- 
cho de Galindo— Scenery— Springs — Kancho de Lagunilla, and that of San 
Ysabel— Occupation, and Stock— Milk. 

Amigo Mio : — Again for your amusement and hypo- 
thetical instruction, I resume my pen in transmitting such 
portions of my travels in Mexico as I hope will interest you 
most. In this view I will lead your thoughtful humor to 
the concluding part of my last letter at the second station, 
la Hacienda de la Labor. The population at esta hacienda 
is about six hundred, consisting, for the most part, of labor- 
ing Indians, who like the southern slaves obey the voice 
of their master ; and that too, in a far more humble form 
of outward acts of servility. Though Mexico boasts of the 
freedom of her sons and daughters, yet most of them serve 
under a yohe of bondage, with a clear conception of its 
character, and an evident conviction of its consequences ; 
I mean that of ignorance the most willful, and tyranny, its 
natural sequence. If the Mexican servant desires any 
information or other object of the proprietor or of a supe- 
rior, or has to enter his house to see him on business, he 
puts his hat under his arm as if by natural impulse, and 
retains it there till he has left the immediate presence of 
his lord. The relation in which these peones stand to those 



164 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

who give them employment, I have ah*eadj mentioned in 
a preceding letter, as being below that of a southern slave ; 
and without the obligations of a master's care and purse, 
in case of sickness and the trembling infirmities of age. 
The proprietor of esta hacienda, with his family, resides here 
most of the time, and he is engaged in the production of 
maize, frijoles or beans, and sugar cane, with such vegeta- 
bles as the market and the Indians may require for suste- 
nance ; and also, in the growth of stock. I was also inform- 
ed that he had been many times attacked by the stealthy 
bands de banditos, who prowl about on the fertile plains, 
yet as often he had forced them to retreat from his strong- 
hold, repelling them by the gentle, still manly persuasion 
of arms. 

The rate of our traveling, I should imagine, would 
range about six miles an hour, and on an average, we 
must have received fresh relays every ten miles' travel ; 
the number of traveling hours being thirty, and on the road 
thirty-six in all, between Tepic and Guadalajara. Many 
parts of this route we found rough, precipitous and stony, 
which much retarded the speed of the mules. In a geograph- 
ical line, the distance is not so far ; the main road being circu- 
lar to avoid the passing through deep gulches and over 
mountainous districts. 

Having anticipated the speed of our traveling, the dis- 
tance of the journey, and somewhat of the character of 
the road, I will now accompany you, amigo mio, to my 
resuming more fully my departui'e at the second station. 
Every one and everything being properly adjusted, we 
sallied out on a bounding trot at two o'clock in the morning ; 
the stars shining brightly, and the milky-way being in the 
zenith of its splendor, serving us not as the " pillar of light " 
in days of yore, to the nomadic tribes of Israelites, in the 
full execution of ancient prediction ; but as a gentle hand- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 165 

maid with many pleasing characteristics, to light us on our 
way, and aid in making observations upon the beauties or 
deformities of nature or of the surrounding and passing 
objects. 'Ere we had gone far in tracing the happy land- 
scape of nature, and launched out into the full contempla- 
tion of what we may have heard or were then seeing, our 
vision was again rescued from too much intensity by our 
passing la Hacienda San Leonel, three miles from the for- 
mer. Esta Hacienda apeared to be surrounded with simi- 
lar building improvements, and pursuits, and with a popu- 
lation of near nine hundred, most of whom would fully 
characterize the peones in habits or general appearance, 
especially in the peculiarites of ignorance, stupidity and 
slothfulness. 

This region appears well watered, abounding in build- 
ing and fencing stones and rocks, yet with a scarce supply 
of forest trees for any purposes, except fuel. The land is 
productive, even during the dry season, when properly irri- 
gated ; and in abundance within the gulches and canadas 
you would see, as passing along, the yellow harvest of the 
plantains and bananas, ready to be plucked and eaten ! 
The soil here, and in fact through most of this region of 
country, is volcanic, presenting those ingredients so gen- 
erally commingling with its nature, silex alumina, lime, 
potash and iron ; and these, in some portions, were decom- 
posed, having united with their particles vegetable mould, 
and in others they were decomposing ; trap rocks occurring 
in large tabular masses, rising one above another, like steps. 
In other portions of the same region of country, you may 
cast your eye and behold it capt with the rock of ages, 
granite, with its apparent compositions^ quartz, feldspai* and 
mica ; while the soil in other parts possesses a substratum 
of argillaceous deposit, with an overlayer of calcareo-ar- 
gillaceous and loamy contexture, — presenting upon its sur- 



166 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

face, an infinite luxuriance of vegetation. This kind of 
soil, it is mj impression, in regions where tropical rains 
prevail with so much violence, might be more lasting, as it 
would not admit of too free a drainage, but retain mostly 
the rich decomposition of vegetable growth. 

A variety of elevations now became more conspicuous ; 
and lofty peaks near at hand and in the distance changed 
the scene, showing on their whitened or brownish sides, the 
grandeur of magnificence ; while el camino de coche winds 
around the base of many a hoary sire, then down a gulch 
furrowed out by the mountain torrents, and thence along a 
sloping plain, jagged in form, till it struck a beautiful 
level ; where bounding, we passed on our wayward course. 
In the lapse of an hour from the last station, we had 
arrived at el rancho del Mirador^ twenty-seven miles from 
the city of Tepic, surrounded by poor huts to mark the 
existence of human tenements. The population is near 
one hundred, consisting mostly of Indians ; and the pur- 
suits for a subsistence are grazing on a small scale, and the 
cultivation de frijoles, ajos, cehollas miez y pimento de chile, 
including fruits, melons, and the like. These are the kinds 
of productions which tend much to support the lower 
classes in Mexico, and enter largely into that of the higher. 
The next habitation we hailed is that of el rancho de Gal- 
indo, thirty miles from Tepic ; here I noticed a similar pop- 
ulation to what I have already described, consisting of one 
hundred, and mostly Indians, with pursuits of a similar 
character to those above mentioned. 

The country had now become more than undulating ; it 
was rather rough, and in many places mountain peaks were 
presenting themselves near el camino^ lending romance to 
us lonely sojourners, peeping one above another in quick 
succession, and seemingly floating along in ethereal mist. 

We saw not las estahlecimientos de el rancho, where we 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 167 

were to receive relay mules, near the road, as we had 
ascended quite a hill ; but near a forest tree we beheld the 
mules harnessed and ready for immediate service, with an 
hostler on the alert to perform his required duty. After- 
war.ls, in passing along, we saw the buildings in the gulch 
below, which spread out into a rich bottom land, where the 
usual productions peculiar to a climate bordering on the 
temperate zone, as the result of altitude, were grown in per- 
fection and abundance. The reason that many rancho and 
hacienda buildings, are not situated on the roa I, is that 
springs of water cannot always be conveniently had for 
household and rancho purposes. 

Our relay of mules being all ready for the sounding thong, 
we soon took leave of this lonely spot, which to me, having 
come from the whirl of a California life, seemed so deso- 
late ; and we passed on, meeting with a few changes, such 
as seeing clumps of scrubby oaks, white, red, and black, that 
were fitted for no other design than that of fuel. 

Nothing of moment met our eyes to whet up our obser- 
vations and make us chronicle events, till our arrival at el 
rancho del Ocotillo, forty-two miles from the city of Tepic. 
Msto rancho consists of a population of nearly two hundred 
Indians, who are engaged in its cultivation. Iveceiving our 
relay of mules we traveled on, seemingly without the note 
of time, passing el rancho de LaguniUa in the distance of 
three miles, with a population of mostly mixed breeds, 
numbering two hundred ; and in that of three miles fur- 
ther, that of San Tsabel, forty-eight miles from Tepic. 
The population here is varied and numbers about six hun- 
dred ; although Shem's apparent race is quite visible in 
the general contour of their facial regions. The chief 
objects of occupation and pursuit are very similar with 
those I have already mentioned. Small tracts or patches 
are here and there cultivated on each of these, in the usual 



168 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Mexican manner of tilling land, coupled with grazing. 
The stock consists of cattle, horses, mules, sheep, goats and 
hogs ; though I did not discover that any of these abounded 
superabundantly in any of this region of country. 

JEstos ratichas are remarkably well watered, the water 
rising from the mountain solitudes and springs on the 
sy phonic principle. Feeling that the length of this let- 
ter may weary you and encumber myself with too much 
writing at one time, I will close this and renew my jour- 
ney in another letter. 

Adios, 

Senor, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 169 



LETTER XXXIV. 



Hacienda de Tetitan— Aspect— Productions— Rancho de Vreto— Breakfast thereat 
and its Kind— Its aspect— Humid Lands— Manners and Customs of tlie Indians 
generally— Mode of Living— Amusements— Chapels on Haciendas— Moral Infor- 
mation gained under the influence of Religion— State Religion, impolitic. 



Amigo Mio: — One soon becomes really fatigued in 
thus traveling half of the night or more; especially, como 
no hay minguna fonda, where we could have obtained, 
early in the morning, a cup of coffee or chocolate to grat- 
ify our longing appetites. All ready, we took leave of el 
Rancho de San Ysabel, and in traveling six miles we 
reached the large and beautiful Hacienda de Tetitan, which 
is possessed of very good improvements and of a population 
of twelve hundred, eleven-twelfths of whom are Indians, ser- 
ving in the capacity of peones. This is surrounded with stock 
of various kinds, sufficient for practical purposes. The 
productions at this place are the same as those which I 
have already mentioned as being grown at Haciendas. 

However, I must not omit mentioning, that prior to our 
leaving San Ysabel we purchased some milk of a Senora, 
whom we saw milking, on our arrival to receive our relay 
of mules. Senor Augsburgh having traveled the road sev- 
eral times, and well understanding the requisites for per- 
sonal comfort on a long jaunt, had laid in a bountiful supply 
of cooked provisions which he now shared with the other 
passengers most liberally, and for this act of attention, I 
*a 



170 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

here beg to acknowledge the most welcome reception of 
on my own part. 

The hours of breakfasting when traveling in this coun- 
try, either in the stage or otherwise, is at ten o'clock. A. 
M., and this morning, more than usual for myseif, I felt a 
keen appetite, having traveled since eleven o'clock the 
night before till the present, about nine o'clock. 

The next place in succession on my journal is el Bancho 
de Vreto, sixty miles from Tepic, and where if I mistake 
not, we received our relay with a most cordial good cheer ; 
for in receiving this, we also received elalmuerzo de nosotros 
de rancho. Our rancho breakfast was at rather a mean 
looking hut ; consisting of two front rooms on the ground, 
of adobe construction, of a thatched roof, and of not a few 
bushes in front of la casa, to serve in the grateful capacity 
of a covered piazza. 

Having dismounted from our seats, we soon saw our 
hostess busily engaged in anatomical dissections of fowls, 
beef, and other eatables, which she had been, and was hav- 
ing cooked in a most hurried manner. We hailed it as a 
luxury after a wearisome jaunt of sixty miles, to halt even 
at a hut, wash our dusty faces, and comb our hair ; though 
without the convenience or rather refinement of a toilette 
glass to peep into, in order to straighten our locks and deck 
our brows in proportions just, like some blithsome sylphs. 
This over, we cast our eyes about for a lounge to rest our 
limbs for a few moments, and saw dry ox hides strewed 
over the ground flowers under the bush piazza roof, and on 
these there were soon spread blankets where we severally 
threw ourselves till the unwonted call for breakfast rang 
coarsely through our ears. The time had now arrived for 
this call, and to me at this hour of the day, it seemed an 
unnatural one, yet almost instinctively I obeyed its dicta- 
tion, and arising, not from my downy bed, I went to the 



OF THE MEXCIAN CORDILLERA. 171 

breakfast-board in quite a small room, so much so that we 
could scarcely pass each other to be seated. 

This did not look superabundantly supplied, nor as if 
the fields and gardens had been robbed of much of their 
golden fruits ; still there was a sufficiency to eat and satisfy 
our hunger, consisting of coffee with milk, chocolate, beef- 
steak roasted on coals, eggs boiled, bread, tortillas, frijolas, 
y came con Chili Colorado ; and after this, as it is the cus- 
tom of the country, we were presented with paper cigars, 
called cigaritos, of which I soon discovered that all persons 
without regard to sex enjoyed the luxury, except the first 
class of young ladles ; and this if they do, they indulge 
in secretly, as an exhilarant custom. 

Breakfast being over, and feehng myself much refreshed, 
I took a stroll out to behold the liones de el rancho, but I 
discerned them not. I contented myself with observing its 
beautiful location in a fertile district of country, adapted to 
grazing or agricultural pursuits, with a fine mountain stream 
running through it, sufficient to fertilize the parched earth, 
and make it most productive at any season of the year. 
The population is estimated at two hundred, and I should 
imagine that nineteen-twentieth s of it were of Indian pro- 
genitors, and these mostly serve as peones. The produc- 
tions are the same as at otros ranchos, though limited I as- 
sure you, amigo, in comparison to what they might be made 
by the hand of industry and well directed labor. The hills 
and mountains were dry and seemed to affiDrd, in the month 
of April, a scanty supply of verdure to maintain animal 
existence, except in low and humid lands. These abound 
between mountainous ridges and spurs towering into the 
misty clouds ; and in the dry season they resemble oases 
in the desert land of the Great Sahara. There, as at the 
other localities where we passed, the spirit, the manners, 
the customs, and knowledge of the country people or Indian 



172 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

peo7ies, or paisanos de Indianos, are very much the same ; 
which I will now allude to, for the purpose of no other 
object than to represent verified characteristics as they fell 
under my observation, in passing through this and other 
regions of Western Mexico. 

But little of a commendable spirit did I see in the gen- 
eral improvements of the country to render the habitations 
of man the greatest desiderata, yet a personal spirit of re- 
venge and hatred did I frequently witness this class ex- 
tend to each other. In their habits they are extremely 
lazy, prone to misrepresentations, filthy, hair long and 
knotted, faces dirty, bare-footed, and often bare-headed, 
with a loose pair of pantaloons, shirt, and sometimes a 
round-about, and with a blanket they are sometimes blest 
as comprising a portion of a wardrobe. Frequently en 
paseando los ranchos y haciendas, I beheld them extended 
on the ground, and many times under an imperfect shade, 
very dissimilar to that humanity which I had been wont to 
see in other lands. By the extreme force of hunger, and 
the remonstrance and persuasion of the proprietors of these 
establishments, are these Indian peones urged and brought 
into the performance of manual labor, to obtain a mere sus- 
tainment ; though this requirement of nature they would 
not obey, were there ample opportunities of stealing; rob- 
bing and escape, blended together. I saw many of them 
on horse-back, tilting about the plains with ease and grace- 
fulness in their motions ; keeping their bodies in a flexible 
position with the gallop of their steeds. 

The dresses of the females, like the clothes of the males, 
are made of cheap calico of the most flashy print for the 
skirts, with scarcely any notions of propriety or decency 
about them. This fashion, if it deserves a comparison, 
looked like that of the antique ages of the world, perhaps 
shortly after the creation, when human beings discerned 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 173 

their nudity; for in adapting them. to their dusky frames 
they gave their dresses ample measurement to admit the 
cool air to freely circulate ; and seldom, was I informed, 
they wore any underclothes : perhaps a chemise without 
any addition. Their dresses, though made with skirts and 
sometimes sleeves, are seldom raised to a comely position, 
merely lashed' SiYound their waists. Over their heads and 
shoulders they usually wear los rehozos or long shawls, 
mostly knit of cotton thread, dyed with varied hues. These 
shawls or rehozos they extend gracefully over their heads, 
supplying the custom of wearing bonnets, and fully pro- 
tecting their oval, brawny forms to the lower part of the 
waist. This class of female peoiies, doing what they may 
in the form of domestic employment, ever retain sus reho- 
zos, seldom using pins as in other countries. These In- 
dians generally sleep on the ground floor of their huts, 
having dried ox hides beneath, and in this manner they 
pass long nights enfolded in their blankets, rehearsing an- 
cestral achievements, and the feats in which they themsel- 
ves have been engaged, till nature exhausted, closes their 
eyes in the oblivion of night. Their diet is simple, consist- 
ing of came con Chili Colorado, tortillos, sweet potatoes, 
bread made of a plant called j atrophia, fruits common to 
the country, ajos, cehollas, without coffee or tea ; however, 
cold water is commonly substituted. The chief amusement 
of this class consist in cock-fighting, bull-fighting, running 
horses on the plains, throwing the lasso when on a full gal- 
lop with unerring certainty, and fandangos accompa^nied 
and enlivened with violins and guitars, and also tamborines, 
and sometimes with jolly vocal music, and generally end- 
ing in a fight, with one or two deaths to pay a small trihute 
to pleasure. 

On most of las Haciendas there is a chapel where the 
hacienda peones, with the country people on los ranchos 



174 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

near at hand attend chnrch of a Sunday morning,kneeling 
and ejaculating a short prayer in imitation of the sainted 
padre who has, perhaps, come from a distant city or some 
humble village, to bless his flock in sowing good and right- 
eous seeds, but with godly and pious care to reap his har* 
vest ere the setting sun had shut in his golden fieece. With 
all the pious care and instruction ; with all the external 
forms of ceremony and godly invocation ; christianed. un- 
der the holy banners of the faith, and surrounded by godly 
fathers ; taught to kneel before the altar and the Saints, 
and repeat in chorus loud, sacred anthems, attuned by 
the instrumental choir ; adoring one set of men as media- 
tors between an offended God and offending man, and pay- 
ing these tribute to plead their cause and express their elo- 
quence to the admiring crowd ; it would, most assuredly, 
beggar truth to give the red men of the forest a higher po- 
sition, either mentally, physically, morally, politically, ar- 
tistically, or scientifically, than their ancestors possessed 
at the time of the conquest of Mexico, under the iron sway 
of Montezuma. 

Hence the amount of moral, artistic and scientific infor- 
mation of which one would observe these Indians to be in 
possession, has been far excelled by a long line of ance - 
tral births, if we can credit astute pages of history, whi -h, 
in bold relief, reflect the manners, habits, customs, arts dnd 
sciences of the ancient and sagacious Aztecs. 

In these remarks I do not intend to advocate brt that 
religion in a State is iiecessary to its moral prese vation 
and advancement ; though this religion should adv.;cate as 
little for self as possible, that it may inculcate mo^ al duties 
efficaciously ; but that of a State the past histr vy of the 
world forbids ; as all the elements, whether goo I or bad in 
such a State, are concentrated in a few, and brcome locked 
up under a preconcerted seal, the stamp of which would 



OF THE MEXICAN COKDILLEEA. 175 

'paralyze the soul of any commonwealth. Nor should the 
whole of a religious school or sect be condemned because 
of the tendency of its bad principles or advocates, except 
so far as they may impose themselves upon the political 
affairs of a State ; nor should we question but that under 
all forms of religion there must be some good and truly 
pious souls ; though perhaps, all mankind may bear watch- 
ing to keep them good. 

Feeling that I have partially discharged the object I had 
in the design of this letter, I will w^aive any further details 
which might be embraced in its peculiar characteristics, 
and submit it to your personal and indulgent care, resuming 
in my next, the even tenor of my way. 
Adios, 

Senor, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



176 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XXXV. 



ElRancho de Yreto— Scenery— Trees— Yolcanic Remains— Eancho de Marqnesado— 
Features of the Country— Solar Heat— Mineral Aspect— La Villa de Ahuactlan 
Population— Scenery— rueblo de Ceatan— Aspect— La Villa de Ystlan— Popula 
tion— Country— Productions— Fious J^inner— ^loistened Spots— Eancho de Saa 
Jose de Gracia— Mixed Breeds— Indu'cements— Plan de Barrancas— Description 
thereof— Wild Scenery— Productions— Dwellings— Terminus of the Tepic Stage 
Eoad— Hotel. 



Amigo Mio : — At eleven o'clock, A. M., we departed 
from el RaHcho de Vreto, feeling ourselves quite comforta- 
ble and awake for new and coming scenes. The country we 
were passing through, and had been, appeared much broken 
on the road, and in the distance, presenting numerous spurs, 
continuous from the sloping Cordilleras. 

Scarcely any forests, shrubs, or bushes, arose on our 
vision to blend their verdure with life, or contrast it with 
decomposing scoria which line the mountain slopes in trapic 
forms. Volcanic remains still continued to bound the angle 
of vision, and their crumbling fragments serve for man to 
wend his way o'er plains, o'er slopes and peaks, — works of 
a mysterious convulsion. 

The next place of note worthy of mention in the line of 
my travel is el Rancho de Marquesado, sixty-six miles from 
Tepic, with a mixed population of three hundred, mostly 
Indian peones, who serve in the capacity of tillers of the 
soil, drawers of water, and hewers of wood, and also, of 
herdsmen. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 177 

The sun became mucli hotter as his golden rays beamed on 
our doomed heads almost vertically, and reflected his heat 
from the parched objects which we were passing, instead of 
absorbing it as they would have done had they been ver- 
dant. The geographical constitution and features of the 
country appeared as usual ; and I should be under the im- 
pression in comparing this region with the numerous ranges 
of the Cordilleras in California, particularly in the extreme 
northern and southern, as well as middle mines, that un- 
known mineral wealth must exist here in boundless profu- 
sion, and that it only wants a firmer hand, a stronger muscle, 
and a wiser policy, to here awaken and astound men in the 
discoveries of many a new El Dorado. 

Continuing our journey through similar regions, at one 
o'clock, P. M., we hailed la Villa de Ahuacatlan, seventy- 
two miles from Tepic, situated in a beautiful, undulating, 
yet fertile district, and laid out with some notions respect- 
ing the conveniencf^. and adaptation of a small town. The 
population is near fifteen hundred, and well mixed with our 
ancestors, father Noah's proscribed races, presenting even 
nicer divisions of shade ; and here for the first time on this 
road, I noticed una fonda regulada, una iglesia, and several 
stores, 6 las tiendas ; tambien una plaza, shaded with beau- 
tiful rows of orange trees in bloom ; and where the^^moun- 
tain streams have fed, for many a setting sun, the artistic 
fountain, to which all come and take of the limpid water to 
slake their thirst, or to boil their potage ; though I presume 
not such iis Jacob sold unto Esau for his birth-right. Who 
knows but that by this act and at this time, arose in man 
the assumed right, the accursed precedent, tolerating primo- 
geniture ? So far as I noticed the construction of the 
buildings, those especially embracing the plaza, — they ap- 
peared to be one story high, and made of adobes or soft 
burnt bricks, and plastered inside and outside, having flat 



178 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

roofs with small parapets, and court-yards in the center ; 
some of ^vhich are ornamented with trees, tropical in their 
nature and fruit — bearing ; and also, rills and fountains. 
I should be induced to think from ny own personal obser- 
vations that, out of the population of this village, fourteen- 
fifteenths of the citizens were Indians or of mixed blood. 

Departing from la Villa de Ahuacatlan, we passed on 
over the same unique and picturesque region, though un- 
cultivated, as before, till our arrival at el Pueblo de Geatan, 
seventy-six miles from Tepic. Here we received a relay 
of mules, and soon passed on ; though I had, during a mo- 
mentary suspension of our travel, embraced an opportunity 
to learn the extent of the population, which amounted to 
five hundred souls, formed by sinfjular combinations and 
characteristics of consanguinity. Here also, I beheld a 
beautiful crystal stream running through el Pueblo, supply- 
ing the people with an abundance of water for irrigation. 

Pursuing our journey with slight changes of scenery, our 
coach soon reached la Villa de Ystlan, eighty-one miles from 
Tepic ; having a population of two thousand four hundred, 
and fully eleven-twelfths of whom I should set down as 
mixed races and Indians. This town was conceived in 
times predominating with regular notions ; the streets cross- 
ing each other mostly at right angles, though narrow, but 
paved with cobble stones, and also, the side walks, as it is the 
usual practice in Mexican towns. La plaza I saw near the 
center of the village, ornamented with running rills, a foun- 
tain, and fruit-bearing shade trees. Many of the hoifses, 
6 las casas about the square, presented a neat aspect to one 
passing through ; being constructed in the usual Mexican 
style, and white-washed on both sides. On either side of 
la plaza, I saw a few stores, shops, and dos Fondas puhli- 
cas, all of wliich betokened a considerable commerce. I 
was informed that there were here several public schools, 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 179 

conducted, thougli on the principles of all public instruc- 
tion in the country where the youth are taught n\ore to 
imitate than penetrate, more to move the hand gracefully 
from head to heart, and from arm to arm, than the head into 
the truthful studies of arts and sciences. As yet, I beheld 
much the sameness with referenc to the industrial produc- 
tions of the country, and the same broken aspects flitted 
before my view, adding now and then., notwithstanding, 
novelty to what I had seen. In this Villa there is una 
iglesia, where all, whether pure or spotted, go to confess 
their many sinful thoughts and marauding actions once a 
week, a month, or year at farthest in set time, and endea- 
vor ever afterwards to live a pious and holy life. And 
while in church on bended knees, with one hand on the 
breast and the other extended toward heaven — with eyes 
half closed in divine imitation, and under divine inspiration, 
resting on the holy father and a man of fashion in the same 
attitude of worsliip, though with his delicate white hand- 
kerchief half suspended from his pocket ; a pious sinner 
most dexteriously rids this goodly man of his superfluous 
appendage. 

Having surveyed this city to the extent of our ability, 
and expressing a temporary regret that such fair spots 
were so little cared for by man, we continued our traveling 
over broken ridges, spurs of the las Cordilleras, over plains, 
and across brooks, and through clumps of scrubby forest 
trees, passing here and there moistened spots, which, in 
this present conjuncture of the seasons, singled themselves 
out to our vision, with peculiar attraction. Here animals 
and birds come to slake their feverish thirst, returning 
natural thanks to an all bountiful Provider, by a kind ex- 
pression in the position of their heads and eyes, unlike the 
Indians at the altar, without stealing a hair or a feather, 
and afterwards nip the tender blades which are constantly 
shorn of their coming growth. 



80 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Arriving near el Rancho do San Jose de Gracia, we 
had but a few moments to make observations, yet these 
were indulged in to the best advantage, as they were ex- 
tended to us by our kind coachman. The buildings we saw 
in a few moments were of a miserable construction, being 
no more than Indian huts made of most flimsy contextures, 
with a slight exception in the dwelling of the proprietor. 
The population of this rancho approximates eight hundred, 
who are mostly mixed breeds and Indians, and perform the 
labors required for the occupancy of their tenements. 

Este rancho is laid down on my journal as being eighty- 
seven miles from Tepic. It is an old adage that " time 
waits for no man," and we found this invariably the case in 
Mexican stage traveling ; for the coachmen seemed ever 
to be as desirous of passing rapidly through, as expressmen 
in the State of California when on missions of the greatest 
magnitude. Therefor^ \\c were lorcea .c y/'^nd our vis- 
ional search ove^' lais fair land most hurriedly, taking "/: at 
a glance th . whole compass of the scenery ; hill and dale, 
moun'"* and mountain, rising and departing with a peculiar 
i'lpression on the mind. Not having passed on far, we 
hailed another rancho called el Ra^icho del Ocote, ninety 
miles from Tepic ; from the note on my journal, there is a 
heterogeneous population of near one hundred human 
beings, the mixed and Indian races prevailing. The culti- 
vation, ihe productions, the tone — public or private — of the 
community, the constitutional features of the soil, of the 
streams and mountains, combine but slight shades of dif- 
ference in passing through this portion of the country, offer- 
ing to strangers at present few inducements to settle, except 
in Los Pueblos or the large commercial cities. While 
sojourning in this country, I discovered on close observation, 
and conversing with men of intelligence, that the great and 
paramount causes of settlements not having been generally 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 181 

made throughout the country and kept up in a prosperous 
condition, are reduced to two-fold ; first, large grants which 
divide a large tract of country among a few, and often these 
grantees are destitute of every principle and virtue, intel- 
ligence and responsibility, constituting men ; and secondly, 
the want of will and concentration in the general govern- 
ment to suppress the devastating crime of robbing los ran- 
chos y las haciendas^ and to encourage the husbandmen, 
the mechanics and the merchants, in their several and 
varied pursuits ; promoting and giving place at the same time 
to the combined effect of the arts and sciences. For if the 
husbandmen should plant the fertile fields off from the pro- 
tection of settlements, yielding them an abundance, and 
gather in their promised harvests ; — the very next day 
they might be robbed of their hard earnings ere they had 
tasted a morsel of their new leaven bread. 

The next object we noticed in the line of our travel, and 
on this old thoroughfare, constructed by the Spaniards 
many years since, was the Plan de Barrancas, ninety-six 
miles from Tepic, of hard traveling over craggy, jagged 
and mountainous slopes. El plan de Barrancas signifies 
the first surface or the edge of deep breaks or gulches fur- 
rowed out by mountain floods. The perpendicular depth 
of las Barrancas I should set down as near two thousand 
feet, being two miles down by the winding of the road, 
which in many places appeared to be on an angle of forty- 
five degrees with the horizon for a very short distance ; and 
the greater part of it would seem from close observation 
on an angle of thirty degrees, winding much at that. As 
I before remarked, it was constructed when Old Spain bore 
her iron rod over this fertile region of Anahuac. It is 
paved from the top to the bottom, with a few exceptions, 
by round cobble stones, and on the side of this road lead- 
ing off to the precipitous abyss below, there is a substan- 



182 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

tial wall of stones laid in mortar and about three feet high, 
which serves as an apparent barrier against threatening 
danger in making a careless or hurried descent. In many- 
places it was necessary to blast the granite rocks and touch 
the projective points of basalt and trap, in order to clear 
the passage for the road, in which case it required no cob- 
ble stones for paving. As I have already observed, this 
road wound much, even to be at all practicable for staging 
or wagoning ; notwithstanding, our experienced coachman 
let the mules, ten in number, go at a lively rate most of the 
way down las barrancas, which to me seemed to demand 
much dexterity in handling the reins and turning sharp 
angles made by excavations for the road. Volcanic 
rocks, scrubby oaks, and various stinted growths, altern- 
ately presented their shaggy aspects to my sight, while 
descending, either in front, to the right or the left. This 
chasm had the appearance of extending up and down on 
either side of the road, and that too to some distance ; 
though meanderingly. 

In the formation of the granite and basalt en las barran- 
cas, I noticed layers of shale frequently intervening, which 
impressed in my mind an uniqueness as to their physiog- 
nomy, so far as I could judge from passing through and 
casting a momentary glance upon the objects before, and 
on either side. The bottom of las barrancas is near three 
miles wide by the way of the road, and is considerably 
cultivated in tropical fruits and productions, commonly 
grown in this part; such as the banana, plantain, pine 
apple, the different species of custard apple, oranges, limes, 
citrons, sugar cane, coffee trees and cocoanut trees, the lat- 
ter of which are much grown in Mexico, especially along 
the sea coast, and of which as well as several other produc- 
tions, it will suit my convenience and taste to mention more 
at large when I shall have arrived at Colima in the nar- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 183 

rative of my travels and observations through much of 
the western slope of the Mexican Cordillera. 

There is a small stream running through this alluvial 
bottom, serving the peones or laborers the purpose of irriga- 
gation and other required objects usually embraced in a 
small settlement. The water is clear, cool, and I should 
think healthful ; notwithstanding the rank growth of vege- 
tation on the margin of this brook. It was dark, or star- 
light when we arrived at the base of the gulch on the oppo- 
site side ; having passed the small settlement known as el 
plan de Barrancas, sobre el camino de Tepic. The popu- 
lation here approaches four hundred, and is much mixed ; 
though the Aztec features prevail. Here I saw few of the 
domestic animals adapted to the common wants of man, 
except hogs and goats ; fruits and sweet potatoes furnishing 
the staff of life ; and a little traffic in bananas and other 
fruits packed on burros, simply furnishing estos peones with 
colored cotton domestics and calico, and blankets for cloth- 
ing and bedding. Here also, I saw a few adobe houses, 
and also soft burnt bricks and granite used for building 
materials, which I confess in this strange abyss, though not 
that of Pluto, indicated a domestic neatness far from being 
expected. The huts and the better dwellings appeared, in 
passing, but one story high ; and the latter white-washed 
on both sides. The cocoa palm, the banana and orange 
were the chief ornaments which surrounded many of these 
habitations. 

Here, even here, two thousand feet in the bowels of the 
earth, I saw a place of Divine service, a church erected 
whereat to mould the colored man, the red man of the forests 
for whom christian people, and most christian governments 
have entertained so much sympathy, and have even 
expressed it to the end of occupancy and partitions of the 
hunting and fishing man's grounds and ponds, and rivers, 



184 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

among a new race. Where would not these sainted fath- 
ers, these holy men, go to propagate their trinitarian creeds 
and Jesuitical dogmas ? To another planet, were the elec- 
tric wire once straightened on the way ! 

On the opposite side de estas barrancas, there are two 
huts belonging to the stage company, where they keep their 
relays. At this point the road from Tepic terminates, 
and the same stage in which we rode till our arrival, will 
return the next day, leaving this station at one o'clock 
A.M. 

The ascent on the easterly slope is quite steep and rug- 
ged, being remarkably difficult for mules to ascend with 
men, or even any persons mounted on them. It is a wind- 
ing trail, paved most of the way with cobble stones, which 
prevent the tropical rains from washing, so as to make it 
impassable. It took a full hour to make the summit, after 
dark, and the family of Senor Augsburg became rather 
wearied, especially the smaller members of it. 

La Fonda de Frances on the summit, is a hotel kept by 
a Frenchman ; having been in the country some time, he 
has located here to serve himself better, though the out- 
ward object to serve the public when arriving either from 
Tepic or Guadalajara ; this being half way, or the half 
way house. 

Feeling that you may desire a relaxation from the peru- 
sal of these letters as I do from writing for a few hours, I 
will consider a good night's repose and untrammeled 
thought of infinite advantage to us both ; beginning with 
the morning anew my journey and my toil. 
Adios, 

Senor, 

Agricola. 

ClNClNNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 185 



LETTER XXXVl. 

^'arther Description— Dinner— Sleep— Departure— Scenery— Exchange of Coach" 
man— Hacienda de Mochitillte— Country Aspect— Hacienda de San Tomas — 
Danger of an Attack by Ladrones— Hacienda de Quemada— Population— La Villa 
de Magdalena — Population— Eesidences-Plaza— Lake Magdalena— Sunrise- 
Pursuits— Schools— Scenery of Mountain Landscape— Tequila— Its Population- 
Spanish Policy -La Plaza— Breakfast— Stroll— Mexican Feelings towards Amer- 
icans— Beauty of this Town-Schools— Churches— Stores— Maguey, or, Agave 
Americana. 

Amigo Mio :—JEsta Fonda, or this hotel, is situated 
rather on a plain, compared with much of the country 
we had recently passed through. All of us being much 
fatigued on our arrival at eight o'clock P. M. and after 
washing our hands and faces thoroughly, several of us 
being so much wearied, betook ourselves to a low couch for 
a few moments ; — awaiting the welcome sound of the din- 
ner and supper bell. 

It came as one euphonious sound, resounding through 
the hall and thick walls, and elicited even now a momentary 
smile ; though we all felt too ill-humored and exhausted for 
want of rest, to be really agreeable to ourselves. The table 
was not sumptuously supplied, nor with such as might have 
been purchased for its use at el plan de Barrancas ; yet 
there was enough to satisfy hunger, and as much as we 
could reasonably expect a French hotel on the western 
slope of the Cordillera to be supplied or burthened with. 

In the order of our repast, first came la supa^ which was 

H 



186 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

quite warm and palatable, but just so much, no mas ; then 
came on, pell-mell, roasted beef, salad, bread, eggs, tortiljas, 
frijoles, y carni del buey con cJdle Colorado, claret and cof- 
fee ; notwithstanding these many dishes, there seemed to 
be wanting that ample fullness to complete a good dinner, 
which is so easily obtained at any good hotel throughout 
the valley of the Mississippi. 

It is not so much in want of materials raised in the coun- 
try to be cooked, as it is a knowledge and disposition in this 
class of hotels to present every dish neatly, and in an invi- 
ting and cordial manner. And in this view, how few there 
are, who, keeping public entertainments on highways, or in 
towns or cities, endeavor to thoroughly study their avoca- 
tions in ail their peculiar departments, meeting in a reason- 
able manner the exigencies of the traveling loilL And 
consequently, their many bankruptcies and entire failures 
must naturally ensue, involving themselves and others in 
comparative poverty and misery, from the want of sheer 
attention. 

Dinner being over at nine o'clock, P. M., we severally 
repaired to our bed-chambers where we had hoped to rest 
a few hours ; and it was a few hours, for one o'clock in the 
morning we had understood to be the appointed hour of 
departing on to Guadalajara. I must not omit to confess 
that, on this occasion, though on a hard bed for the primi- 
tive and golden days of California, in the record of Amer- 
ican history, sleep — not downy sleep — came and went 
quickly ; as the transit of three and a-half hours had not 
seemed to have begun, when a loud call awakened us from 
our midnight slumbers to be up and ready. 

Having arisen and washed ourselves, not deigning to 
use the toilette stand, but to comb our lengthened locks ; 
we all repaired to the dining saloon to take a luncheon and 
a cup of coffee, or chocolate, before departing. Our party 



OP THE MEXICAN COBDILLERA. 187 

consisted of Senor Augsburgh himself, wife, three children, 
two male and two female servants, with a Mexican gen- 
tleman and myself. From the appearance about this hotel, 
and what we could see on departing, I should infer that 
little attention is paid to any thing else than hotel callings ; 
though in a comparative paradise for the cultivation of va- 
rious productions, indigenous to this favored country. La 
Fonda looked rather capacious, and possessed of several 
apartments, not arranged so much for the convenience of 
the traveler, as that of the landlord ; it is one story high, 
and has a portico about fifteen feet wide on either side 
with arches and archivolts, and also entablatures, as usual 
for the better class of dwellings in Western Mexico. It is 
constructed of soft-burnt bricks ; and after having been 
plastered on both sides by a species of hydraulic cement, 
it is white-washed, which gives this travelers' mansion a 
quiet neatness, — yet not a " mansion in the skies." Having 
made all the observations consistent with so short a delay, 
and being all ready for departure — our trunks having been 
secured on the stage boot behind the box, in the usual 
Mexican style, as security against ladrones — we set out at 
the hour designated, at full speed, yet the road being full 
of gulches and spiral ridges coming down from the sum- 
mit range of las Cordilleras, the coachman had to slacken 
or increase the speed of the mules, according to the charac- 
ter of the region of country we were passing over. 

As I observed, we had exchanged our coachman, or el 
cochero de nosotros, and got another who appeared to well 
understand his business, and the dangers of the road. So 
far as Mexican coachmen have, on the public roads, come 
under my notice while traveling in this Republic, my con- 
viction would lead me to judge them highly meritorious, 
and as being remarkably attentive to the full performance 
of their several duties. Passing on leisurely over eleva- 



188 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

tions of rather small magnitude, we soon came to la Haci- 
enda de Mochitillte, one hundred and six miles from Tepic, 
commanding a beautiful aspect, which I found well watered 
and adapted to a bountiful supply of the necessaries of man. 
It possesses a population of near seven hundred souls, nine- 
teen-twentieths of whom at least, flow from the mixed 
breeds, and perform the labors required at esta Hacienda. 
"With a new relay of mules six in number, and a pause of 
a few moments, we continued our course carefully, meas- 
uring our pace and being on the lookout for a band of la- 
drones infesting this region of country, and expecting from 
them an attack at any moment. We quickly escaped from 
these anticipated dangers, reaching la Hacienda de San 
Thomas, one hundred and fourteen miles from Tepic. The 
population at this place numbered about two hundred, and 
that consisted mostly of Indians, who seemed to live in poor 
miserable huts, and barely produced fruits and vegetables 
enough to yield themselves a livelihood. 

Having adjusted a new relay, for relays are necessarily 
frequent through gulches and over mountains, we went on, 
sleepy and fatigued, passing checkered scenery, deep ra- 
vines and mountain peaks, yet not daring to sleep for fear 
of an immediate attack. Even when no attack should be 
designed, one's suspicion becomes so much excited from 
hearing the many flying reports, 6 noticias muchas volantas, 
that he feels his own personal safety devolve on his alert- 
ness and will in self-defence. Continuing our star-light 
traveling, as I have just observed, our minds were but little 
diverted from the road in extending the acuteness of our 
vision ; for objects many times appeared rather too indis- 
tinct, to conceive in the bound of reasonable thought, just 
and correct notions of their formation. 

Not having traveled far, our attention was arrested by 
arriving at la Hacienda de Quemada, distant one hundred 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLEEA. 189 

and six miles from Tepic. The population here is incon- 
siderable, amounting to one hundred, and at least nine-tenths 
of these are Indians ; though I must confess that I did not 
notice much their phrenological developments, nor the 
texture of their skins ; but I soon became fully convinced 
from the scintillation of the silvery gems above, that they 
had not fully erased, by washing themselves, their dusky 
hues, which cast a glossy reflection as the position of their 
bodies was turned to light. 

Having breathed a moment and cast our eyes to Heaven 
for a little more light (not " canister " as in the battle of 
Vista Buend) we sallied on, seemingly indifferent as to the 
surrounding dangers. Near seven o'clock in the morning, 
we had arrived at la Villa de Magdalena, one hundred and 
twenty miles from Tepic, with a population of twenty-five 
hundred souls. The complexion of the Mexicans at this 
town appeared as usual, and I should set down fully eleven- 
twelfths as possessed of a dusky or brownish mixture. Esta 
villa is situated on a beautiful plain surrounded by lofty 
summits, cleaving the floating clouds. It is regularly laid 
out, and near the center there is an area of five acres, ap- 
propriated como Plaza Puhlica, surrounded by public and 
private buildings ; consisting of a church built in modern 
Gothic style, a school-house, and an institution of learning 
for both sexes, a Hall of Audience, Plaza de Armas, and 
also of stores, and una Fonda, con casas privadas. Private 
residences and the public square, I noticed to be ornamen- 
ted with running rills, fountains, and moreover with tropical 
fruit-bearing trees, commingling their rich fragrance, to be 
wafted by the mountain breeze, like the far-famed aroma 
on the desert shore of Arabia, which makes the Arab 
sigh, and impatient for his home — the balmy land of his 
fathers. 

The same order of architecture, and the same manner of 



190 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

irrigating the town, and of paving the streets and side-walks, 
are observed in esta villa, as I have heretofore mentioned 
with reference to pueblos and villas of a similar magnitude. 
Within a short distance from this town in a north-east 
direction, there is a lake of the same name, el lago de Mag- 
dalena. It is the first lake bearing with it this signification 
in appearance, which I have noticed in the course of my 
recent travels on the Western Slope ; and though compar- 
atively small and unadapted to the furtherance of inland 
commerce, yet nearly on a level with much of the surface 
of the surrounding country adjacent to this villa, and en- 
compassed at no great distance, by elevations of different 
magnitudes, with sloping declivities peculiar to volcanic 
convulsions ; I could not but admire this pleasing contrast 
with my past observations, as the rising sun reflected his 
golden rays over this lake of crystal water. This was on 
an April morning, and the sun enlivened all surrounding 
objects ; the aromatic breeze arose from the mountain 
peaks, and coming down, and accompanying us whither- 
soever we might go ; we felt cheered, not so much by 
the sallies of youth, as by the happy spot which we were 
then humoring ourselves to note. 

The pursuits, in this villa, are various, combining that of 
teniendofondas, with commercial, agricultural, horticultural 
and grazing. These are somewhat advanced, though on 
a small scale, and the productions are much the same as 
those heretofore mentioned, growing in this most prolific 
and congenial climate. 

With reference to the schools, I understood that the same 
system of tuition prevailed here, as in other places having 
come under my notice ; the youth being taught more the 
notions of motion and graceful evolution, characteristic of 
the faith, than those of the arts and sciences, which radiate 
their benign influence upon the body politic, singling them- 



OF THE MEXICAN COKDILLERA. 191 

selves out as guides of domestic and public happiness and 
prosperity, promoters of tlie public peace, and bulwarks in 
securing and maintaining the safety of the State. 

Having remained at this. Vjlla no longer than to take a 
peep at its site, and its general characteristics, and to be 
supplied with a new relay of mules, we were soon ready to 
proceed. It had now become quite v/arm, as the sun was 
fast approaching his meridian height, though forward we 
rolled on over the stony pavements, thundering like distant 
artillery, and soon by rapid pace, we skirted the south side 
of the lake, riding along with a beautiful plain in front, on 
the right and behind us ; yet at a distance, our admiration 
was much more excited in beholding the picturesque scenery 
of mountain landscapes, in all the varied forms of conic or 
transverse contours, which volcanic heat can mould. 

In the distance of eighteen miles, no characteristic differ- 
ence in the general constitutional features of the country 
could be noticed, nlthough I do not desire to be understood 
that it is a compjete monotony, nor that the lake, nor this 
particular valley a< companied us ; but that changes, pecu- 
liar to a naturally convulsed country, were constantly 
arising to our view. 

Effecting one relay in this intervening space, at ten 
o'clock, A. M., we arrived at la Villa de Tequila, one 
hundred and thirty-eight miles from Tepic ; being a city 
of considerable size, as the population is estimated to be 
over five thousand, citizens of various shades included. So 
far as I could conceive in my mind the characteristics of 
this villa, it occurred to me that the streets crossed each 
other at right angles, and that the streets and side-walks 
were remarkably narrow, as common in Spanish and 
Mexican countries, which policy, being too manifest to be 
contested, rather indicates, notwithstanding Spain had, in 
the days of her brightest prosperity, scarcely any setting 



192 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

sun, that she possessed then, as now, a constitutional jeal- 
ousness and suspicion, natural principles of her government; 
those 0? policy and of domestic regulations, too niggardly, too 
parsimonious to be long prospered. Instances with refer- 
ence to these points rise in endless succession, as one 
explores the boundless scope of her once almost unlimited 
possessions. 

The lands where her new and proud cities were erected 
had not been the happy recipients of the contending parties 
in the concessions of mutual rights ; one receiving land, and 
the other party, an equivalent ; but the one came to an 
unknown land, with sword and cross in hand, guardian 
angels, emblems of mercy, love and peace, demanding an 
unconditional surrender of all their natural rights, and the 
erection of their cross, the sacred symbol of their faith, over 
the most holy and ancestral rites which bound these poor 
Indians to their God ! From this consideration of Spt.in, 
one would naturally come to the conclusion that she might 
have granted a sufficiency of land to her rising cities, to 
have admitted of spacious streets, invaluable acquirements 
to the promotion of health within the tropics. 

La Plaza, or the public square, is laid out neatly, and 
ornamented with some degree of taste and convenience, 
having respect to the increase of pleasure in social prom- 
enading. It is watered by the turning of a small stream 
through the city, which I now remember ran most beauti- 
fully in the piazza over a pebbly bottom of various hues, 
near la Fonda de Tequila, where we had put up for 
breakfast. 

Our breakfast this morning, as usual in traveling or 
otherwise, came on at ten o'clock, and consisted of nearly 
the same varieties as our dinners had the preceding night 
at el Plan de Barrancas, with the addition of good chocolate 
and milk, and of an abundance of all the other substantial 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 193 

nourishments grown in this country, all being well cooked 
and most cordially served. This over, I walked about esta 
casa a few moments, and noticed that mine host and hostess 
were Mexicans, almost white, good natured and courteous 
to travelers. 

There may be an implacable hatred harbored in the 
bosoms of the Mexican people towards Americans, and this 
may rise and fall like the pendulum to a clock or the ebb 
of the sea ; there may be the ranklings of the war, prob- 
ing their hearts and cankering their reasons ; there may be 
corrupt and out-lawed Americans treading their generous 
and forbearing soil ; and there may be foreign and intestine 
enemies to the Americans, moving their dormant spirits to 
action against the apparent policy of the United States ; 
notwithstanding these circumstances and considerations, so 
natural to a mercurial people, it would have been extreniely 
difficult for me, in most cases, to have discovered any ten- 
able grounds, whereby I might personally utter any com- 
plaint against these people, either nationally or privately, 
as infringing upon the conceded rights guaranteed by the 
treaty stipulations existing between the two Republics. 

Having rested myself on a lounge awhile, I Avalked out 
into the Plaza publica, where I saw a murmuring rill, and 
a crystal fountain, jetting up its silver drops into the air, 
and then receding like mist from the clouds. There I 
beheld a permanent reservoir encircling this fountain, con- 
structed of stones and cement, with a circular basement 
around it, and with octangular promenades laid in flag- 
stones, leading off divergingly and uniting with the main 
promenade, which embraces the area of the whole square. 

Orange trees are set around the plaza, and along the 
promenades, about twenty feet apart, which I was informed 
were in perpetual verdure, blooming and bearing the whole 
year. This is not Eden of yore, but then, I thought an 

*H 



194 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Eden might be made of it under the indulgent and foster- 
ing care of the arts and sciences. 

In this town there are several schools or institutions of 
learning, and while here, I understood that they were gen- 
erally attended by a few hlondish, yet mostly dusky tints ; 
indicating strange tastes in the gf^rminal and conceptive 
apprehensions, without awakening the judgment as to con- 
sequences. Here I also saw a church and other public 
buildings, such as the Hall of Audience, and la plaza de 
armas, situated fronting the public square. Here too, front- 
ing la plaza puhlica, I noticed many stores possessing for- 
eign and domestic merchandise, shops of various kinds 
peculiar to the avocations and demands of this region, and 
private residences wdth piazzas in the center, and these 
generally ornamented by the tropical growths of the coun- 
try,. and playful fountains. The streets and side walks are 
paved with cobble and flag-stones in the usual manner, 
with reference to the notion of drainage. 

Here I saw not, nor heard of any place of public amuse- 
ment, nor of a public library, nor gallery of paintings, nor 
of sculpture, except de un cereamiento para las battalias de 
toros, or a place for bull-fighting. 

The productions, in every respect, appeared the same 
throughout this region, with the exception of the cultiva- 
tion of the Maguey or Agave Americana. This kind of 
agriculture abounds near this villa and region, almost to 
the exclusion of other productions, profitable in themselves, 
and of as much benefit to the promotion of man's happi- 
ness and prosperity. 

In my next, amigo mio, I will give you a description of 
this plant, and its utility to man in by-gone days, as well as 
at present. 

Adios, 

Saner, * 

AttRICOLA. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 195 



LETTER XXXVII. 



Description of El Magaiey at Tequila— Known to the Aztecs -Its Uses and Adapta- 
tions among the Aztecs and Mexicans— Departure from Tequila— Pueblo de 
Amatitlan- Population— Country Scenery- Guard of thirty Soldiers— Fears of 
Ladrones— Hacienda de Haastla. 



Amigo Mio :— El Maguey or Agave Americana - is a 
plant recognized to have been well known, and its peculiar 
properties thoroughly understood and appreciated by the 
Aztec race, who had swept over the fair plains of Anahuac, 
years prior to the coming of the Spaniards. Their appli- 
cation of it in their domestic requirements, as well as those 
of State, I shall fully allude to hereafter. This plant is 
indigenous to the country and grows wild in almost every 
portion of it, being remarkably hardy and capable of endur- 
ing most incredible and inconceivable draughts. Its growth 
is slow, or accelerated in proportion to the fertility or 
humidity of the soil ; though of the two, a tolerably arid 
soil is the better. Its leaves are from four to eight feet 
long, nearly a foot wide, and from one half to an inch and 
a half thick in the center, possessing a deep green color, 
and full of prickles or thorns on the edges and terminus, 
and in form, rather lanceolate. Its stem not unfrequently 
rises to the height of twenty feet ; and it is my present 
impression that I have seen the stem of this plant in its 



196 TRAVELS OK THE WESTERN SLOPE 

flowering season, extend up to the height of forty feet in 
this region of country, or rather on the western slope of 
the Cordillera, as well as elsewhere. 

While at Tequila, I heard this plant not inaptly termed 
the vine of Mexico ; and one would very naturally come 
to that conclusion, having a thorough knowledge of its 
peculiar properties. Where the soil is good and the culti- 
vation of it has been attentively pursued, it is ripe in five 
years from planting ; but in case the soil not being gener- 
ous to promote its growth, then it takes from eight to ten 
years. The manner of its propagation is by the means of 
slips, just having sprung from the mother-plant near the 
surface of the ground ; these are set about four feet apart, 
although I saw them set somewhat further. From this time 
on till maturity, the chief object would appear to be, to 
keep this plantation free of weeds ; and in this country it 
is done by the Indians, using hoes, similar to those used by 
the negros in the southern portion of the United States. 

Owing to the uncertainty in the length of time requisite 
for this plant to mature, the period of its flowering is quite 
uncertain, yet this is the moment of its fast coming into 
utility; and consequently, the exact time is attentively 
watched, when the stem of the flower begins to shoot up. 
The top is then cut off, so as to leave an impression or con- 
cavity for the reception of the juice, which is constantly 
flowing for the space of several months. In the depres- 
sion of this incision, the arteries deposit the rising juice, 
which would have naturally flown to expand the blossoms. 
The bundle of central leaves having been cut away, the 
wound is gradually enlarged as the occasion may require, 
and covered with green foliage, which is drawn close, and 
tied at the top. 

A single plant, well matured and grown in a rich soil, is 
frequently continued to flow from three to five months, pro- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 197 

ducing each, day from twelve to fifteen pints, or cuartillos, 
which would be on an average, from six to seven quarts per 
day, worth at least twenty -five cents a gallon at las Hacien- 
das. The juice or honey issuing from this wound, is of a thick 
consistency, and its taste is agreeable, not unlike that of a 
subacid. Its fermentation is easily effected from the amount 
of sugary or mucilaginous substance, so abundant in its 
constituent properties ; and when impatient to have it im- 
mediately fermented, it is accomplished by simply adding 
a little pulque, and in three or four days its taste resembles 
that of new cider, though emitting a disagreeable odor, like 
that of putrid meat. This is owing to the rich vegetable 
matter in the juice, which has not wholly decomposed and 
worked off by fermentation. Like most of the other fer- 
mented juices in a partially crude state, I discovered that 
the drinking of it was a habit, and that, too, very soon ac- 
quired, and also that an inveterate dislike for its use might 
be soon overcome by partaking of it in its freshest state. 
Europeans and Americans seldom relish it at first, but re- 
maining a few years in the region of its growth and partak- 
ing of it as a beverage frequently, they become as fond of 
it as the Mexicans themselves. 

By distillation, a very intoxicating drink can be made of 
it, which in some parts of the Republic where the plant is 
much cultivated, has been pursued with great diligence and 
profit. The alcohol and brandy made of it, have been rep- 
resented to me as being equal, in point of spirituous prop- 
erties, to those liquors made of grain and vegetables better 
known to us. "Without this process of distillation, it sel- 
dom intoxicates, having not, in what an ordinary man would 
drink, enough of those baneful properties to produce any 
injurious effects ; but on the contrary, it is considered by 
physicians and those well acquainted with its medicinal 
characteristics, as nutritive, cooling, invigorating and stom- 
achic. 



198 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

The stem of this plant, which bears the blossoms, rises 
from the center of the leaves, and the branches issue from 
every side, and in such a manner as to form a kind of pyr- 
amid, composed of greenish-yellow flowers, which stand 
erect and are seen in thick clusters at every point. When 
in full blossom it presents an appearance really magnificent 
and splendid ; and in this most favorable climate, where no 
cold winds nor frosts prevail, blossoms succeed blossoms for 
several months without interruption, heightening its expres- 
sive beauty by its spiral stem, which shoots up as if by the 
plumb-line of a master workman. The ancient Aztecs 
well understood the nature of this plant, and its varied uses 
as applied by different nations — barbarous, civiKzed or en- 
lightened, in more modern times. In their onward march 
of emigration, amalgamation and constant collision with 
heterogeneous tribes, light was ushered in upon their dim 
past ; particularly so by following the footsteps of the an- 
cient Toltecs, who had but just passed away, leaving the 
crumbling monuments of the arts and sciences in their wake, 
which our Prescott has deciphered from the sacred scrolls 
of antiquity, embalmed by a few holy fathers of the Church 
at the time of the conquest, and recorded upon his historic 
page as an heritage to coming years. The outside bark of 
the Aztec Maguey, .after having been carefully peeled off, 
was macerated, and then a softening and bleaching process 
was continued with it till the fibres were rendered fine, 
which adapted them for immediate use, or that of manufac- 
turing. It was applied for clothing and various other pur- 
poses and requirements in domestic life ; and further, the 
hieroglyphical figures of the Aztecs were painted on paper 
made of these fibres thus macerated and softened, and after- 
wards disposed in layers. The prickles or thorns already 
alluded to, on the edges of the leaves, served these simple 
people with pins, needles and nails ; and the priests, to carry 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 199 

out their piety and religion in swaying the masses of the 
ignorant and unreflective, and impressing their sacred im- 
portance, pierced their arms and breasts with those thorns, 
performing their penitent acts of expiation in this cruel 
manner, as if pleasing to an All-wise Providence. The 
Aztecs too, understood the season of its inflorescence, and 
watched its coming on with anxious care, and when the 
time had drawn nigh they obeyed the same laws which 
govern the Mexicans at this time in the process of its use 
by tapping it, though they did but make its juice into pulque, 
which they drank as an exhilerating beverage on festive 
occasions, yet seldom to intoxication. And out of the rojot 
of this plant, they formed most palatable dishes, even, so 
said, for fastidious epicures, which w^ere reputed to be highly 
farinaceous as well as very nutritious. 

El Maguey, or Agave Americana of Mexico, is consid- 
ered one of the most valuable of the extensive tribe of 
aloes, now so well known for their medicinal properties and 
useful purposes in each division of the globe. There is 
one kind called Pita, which is mentioned as possessing re- 
markably delicate fibres, out of which fine thread and cloth 
are said to have been manufactured by the Aztecs. The 
paper made of the macerated, softened and bleached Mag- 
uey, is represented as having been remarkably pliable and 
far more beautiful than the papyrus of the Egyptians, or 
the parchment of more modern times. The Aztec Maguey, 
like the Egyptian papyrus, or the European parchment, 
afforded them a very material scroll to inscribe their history, 
their arts and sciences upon, in the form of emblematical 
characteristics. It was moreover, well disposed to retain 
the impression of various brilliant colors dyed or stamped 
on it by the Aztec artists, and to set them out in hasso re- 
lievo. The leaves of this most valuable plant were then 
as now, used for thatching the roofs of buildings where 
wood is scarce or inaccessible. 



200 TRAVELS ON THE T7ESTERN SLOPE 

In the fair and beautiful valleys, on the rolling plains 
and sloping declivities of the mountains, throughout ancient 
Anahuac and modern Mexico, this plant was at the service 
of the husbandman for not only the varied purposes which 
I have mentioned, but it served as a hedge when set in 
rows to enclose the planted field ; as beams for the roofs of 
the Aztec buildings, its trunks were applied ; and its juices 
to that of making sugar and vinegar. 

The fibres of this j)lant are now used in Mexico in the 
same manner as hemp in the United States for manufac- 
turing rope, cordage and bagging ; the bags made out of 
them for packing and other objects, are generally worth 
from fifteen to thirty dollars per hundred, and in good de- 
mand — though depending on their quality and size. From 
my own observation with reference to the staple of these 
macerated fibres of el Maguey, I should apprehend that 
the texture of the ropes and bags would not endure what 
the manufactured hemp might in the United States ; for 
this staple does not seem to possess in its nature, those strong 
and tenacious qualities so well known in the other ; notwith- 
standing, these fibres thus manufactured subserve the ends 
of inland commerce in thousands of different ways, and all 
useful. Considering the manifold applications of this ex- 
tensive tribe of aloes, and particularly the one known as 
la Agave Americana, to the wants of man in all stages of 
human progression, especially within tlie tropics, we can 
notice but few plants known and recorded on the pages of 
history, encompassing within their folds so many useful and 
needful properties. 

Tlierefore, in the contemplation of this plant, so well 
known in hot climates, we become more excited to study the 
book of nature ; to discover new arrangements and combi- 
nations in the structure, qualities and in the properties of 
the vegetable kingdom, of which we can form no adequate 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 201 

conception within our present sphere of knowledge, and to 
feel more keenly our dependence on an All- Wise and Di- 
recting Hand to lead us up that rugged hill of Natural 
Science. The uses which man has made of the larger species 
of these plants, in the primitive ages and developments of 
the past, as well as in the more refined age of human ad- 
vancement, have been manifold and well adapted to promote 
him in the acquirement of his wants. In this view, the 
Negroes of the western coast of Africa have made ropes 
and woven nets of the fibrous parts of the leaves ; while the 
Hottentots have hollowed out the stems of one of the kinds 
into quivers for their arrows; while the inhabitants of 
Jamaica have supplied themselves with fishing lines, bow 
strings, woven stockings and hammocks out of the fibrous 
parts ; while eastern countries have used their juices in em- 
balming, in order to preserve dead bodies from putrefaction ; 
while the resinous parts of this juice have been adopted in 
hot climates to preserve ships' bottoms against the attacks 
of marine worms ; while in the East Indies its juices have 
been applied as a varnish to preserve wood and skins from 
the attacks of destructive insects, and even living animals 
have been smeared with them for the same purpose ; while 
the Mohammedans have consecrated, especially in Egypt, 
the aloe as a kind of symbolic plant, by dedicating it to the 
ofiices of religion, and by the pilgrims, in their return from 
Mecca, suspending it over their doors, to show that they had 
performed that holy journey ; and while its properties in 
medicine have long been known and established, and also, 
in the arts, as the leaves of the Socotrine aloe have been 
particularly distinguished for affording a beautiful violet 
color, without the aid of a mordant to fix it ; in ancient 
Anahuac, and in modern Mexico, the American aloe had, 
and has been, applied by the Aztecs and Mexicans, to almost 
every purpose of life. 



202 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Having taken our breakfast at Tequila and paused awhile 
to reconnoitre the site de la Villa as I have already remarked, 
we departed on our way, observing the country, as before, 
and seeing little worthy of note, till our arrival at el pueblo 
de Amatitlan, one hundred and fifty miles from Tepic, and 
with a population of four thousand citizens or more, and 
fully eleven-twelfths of whom are either Indians or mixed 
colors. The country approximating this town is truly beau- 
tiful, abounding in gentle undulations, level plains, and the 
picturesque scenery of mountain landscapes. Thence come 
the streams which refresh the earth and make a few spots 
produce sustenance for thousands. And to these hoary 
peaks, towering into the skies and cleaving the misty way, 
from which the liquid showers descend, man should look 
up with reverence ; for they serve as the electric rods to 
arrest the passing scuds positively electrified, and thereby 
moisten the dry yet fertile earth. 

This town is laid out much after the manner of Tequila, 
with reference to its streets and side walks, and also la plaza 
publica, which is ornamented with a city stream and foun- 
tain, and orange trees ; and in front of it with buildings, 
both public and private, of a similar character in their archi- 
tectural construction. Receiving our relay of mules, we 
journeyed on over a country equally as broken as any we 
had passed ; presenting^a full variety of checkered scenery. 
Ere we had traveled far, the guard of some thirty Mexican 
soldiers fell in by degrees to defend us in case of an attack 
made on the stage by los ladrones, infesting this region of 
country and inhabiting las caiiadas and fastnesses of the 
mountains, which here single themselves out in alto-relievo, 
as being peculiarly adapted to such pursuits. This guard 
had been engaged by Seiior Augsburgh prior to our passing 
through, as it was considered unsafe, especially with a 
family ; for many times the stages had been attacked, I was 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 203 

informed, with ladies in them, and no distinction was paid 
to sex by the merciless ladrones ; as clothing and jewelry, 
and whatsoever valuable, frequently whether on or off of 
their persons, were appropriated without taking life, if no 
resistance should be offered. In such cases, the outraged 
travelers would have to pass on in the stage nearly in a 
state of nudity, till having arrived at some station or town, 
where assistance might be granted ; which I have been told, 
is usually bestowed with a cordial good heart. 

Our guard were variously tinged, consisting of Mestizos, 
Mulattos and Zambos, with a few pure blooded Indians, 
all mounted astride, and armed with knives, lances and 
bayonetted carbines respectively. They presented to us 
rather a military aspect, riding on the full bound to keep 
pace with the stage, and on the side, and ahead of it a short 
distance, ready in case of instant attack, which we were 
expecting from the flying reports that we had heard along 
the road. They carried in their countenances a fierce de- 
termination, though now and then, they were enlivened by 
smiles and gesticulations, as they approached us nearer by 
the angles and curves of the road, and as they appeared to 
be amused by the motion of the mules, ten in number, 
traveling before the stage on a full lope, and themselves in 
close proximity. This scene to me, was truly lively and 
unique, and perhaps it would not have diminished much in 
this respect, had we had an attack ; for on our part, it 
would have been a determined one at least. Moreover, it 
carried with me that appearance, from the fact that it was 
the first time in my life I had had the honor of being one 
of a company under the protection of a body guard. As 
near as I recollect, I submitted to it with due composure 
and complacency, however, against my democratic princi- 
ples, and notions of policy. 

The road through this region, led over some level, yet 



204 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

mostly an undulating and broken surface. Passing on, we 
soon reached la Hacienda de Haastla, one hundred and 
fifty-six miles from Tepic, and with a population of four 
hundred souls, characteristic of the country. Our stay was 
short, still long enough to take a visional glance at sur- 
rounding objects, both natural and artificial ; the former 
might, under the guidance of a cultivating hand, and just 
laws thoughtfully administered, be made to cheer and wel- 
come the bosom of many a cottager, yet the latter seemed 
adapted to the native peculiarities that inhabited them and 
cultivated one rod around. 

Turning an obtuse angle of the road, and in close conti- 
guity with mountains heaped upon mountains on the left, 
and on the right with a beautiful extent of a rolling plain, 
stretching many a mile, we beheld that fatal spot, which 
had been marked by travelers' blood, and near it crosses 
are erected to indicate to passers-by, the spot where the 
deed took place. Here the blood-thirsty and marauding 
ladrones had come from their mountain dens, most impene- 
trable fastnesses, robbed the stage, and in the conflict, 
killed three travelers. At this moment our guard seemed 
to hover in around the stage, as if av^are of a preconcerted 
spot, and to throw carefully around us their mantle of pro- 
tection, not like that which Ccesar threw around himself, to 
hide his face and die, when he beheld in the Roman Senate 
Chamber, his beloved Brutus, on that fatal hour ! 

My next will be short, as this has been extended far 
beyond my intention at its commencement ; still I hope it 
may reward you for a perusal. 

Adios, 

Seiior, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 205 



LETTHR XX:5tVIIl. 

Kancho de Canada— Population— Unique appearance of the Guard, all MoUtited— < 
Necessity of close Vigilance— A Horseman seen at the base of the Mountain— A 
Ladrone— Scenery— Pueblo de los Cedazos— Population— La Pais— Los Pu^ 
eblitos. 



Amigo Mio :— Continuing our journey from this fatal 
spot, with a thrill of discomposure, and our vision being 
bounded by unique and picturesque beauty on either side, 
and also in front and rear ; soon we hailed with a joyful 
heart el Rancho de Canada, one hundred and fifty-nine 
miles from Tepic ; having a population of near two hundred, 
possessed of the same facial contours and dyed by the same 
indelible colors, without the necessity in the use of a mor- 
dant to stamp them deeper, as have so frequently fallen 
under my notice since coming into this Republic. Being 
supplied with a new relay of mules, and our guard with an 
exchange of horses, we journeyed forward with care and 
prudence on the wing, keeping a good lookout all around 
us, sending some of our fleetest horsemen into the near 
ravines and canadas, while others cut the curves of the 
road, and a few kept in pace with the stage. It now and 
then seemed all din of armor and " horrible discord " in 
our onward speed, with horsemen galloping, and not unfre= 
quently exclaiming " miren ! miren, Ustedes !" 



206 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Ere time had seemingly stolen tlie march of our travel, 
we came upon el Pueblo de los Cedazos, one hundred and 
sixtj-two miles from the city of Tepic. The population 
here rises to near three hundred, possessing the same 
average, from all appearance with regard to various colors, 
as at el Eancho de la Canada. The same advantages with 
reference to agriculture and grazing, and the same produc- 
tions and avocations of the community, appeared to prevail 
through this region of country, and impress themselves 
upon the mind of a tourist, as have quite commonly excited 
my curiosity and struck my attention in traveling thus far 
into this portion of Western Anahuac. 

Having paused to breathe awhile and water our mules 
and horses, and to awaken in our guard the necessity of 
exercising the most rigid vigilance, with respect to seeing 
distant horsemen riding along the skirts of the mountains 
on either side of the road, as they were not far from it. 
Ere a few moments had elapsed, we all espied a lone horse- 
man passing lonely and cringingly along over broken slopes, 
near the base of towering peaks, and all made ready for an 
instant attack, as the party with us formed the impression 
that he was acting as a sentinel ; and, by a certain motion 
of his horse, or a preconcerted signal, he could have com- 
municated to other sentinel?, rallied around himself his force 
of marauding ladrones, and have taken our effects, as well 
as all about our persons, which is too frequently the case. 
But this horseman soon discovered, in taking a more 
minute telescopic survey of our arms and men, that it 
might be a contest of no pleasant undertaking, and hence, 
we passed on as yet unharmed. 

In less than one-half hour, we arrived at la Hacienda de 
Hastillen, not being extensively cultivated, nor surrounded 
by those substantial walls which marked and lined the 
sides of the road in passing out from Tepic. La casa prin- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 207 

clpal and the outbuildings seemed not distinguished by any- 
peculiar characteristics which I have not mentioned, when 
las Haciendas have presented themselves to ray view since 
leaving Tepic. The population, I was informed, amounted 
to one hundred, and with few exceptions it is much mixed, 
consisting of all the shades so peculiar to this country. 

Our guard keeping pace with the stage, or nearly so ; the 
security which they apparently afforded us, and the life and 
exciting influence that they produced, with a rolling surface 
under our feet, and matter once chaotic and melted in the 
depths of volcanic fires most gaseous, and shot up with 
many a surging throe, with many a winding flame, and with 
many a thundering roar, making the hills xo shake, and 
lastly moulded into mountains, whose various and lofty sides 
and peaks bewilder the imagination to fathom or describe ; 
all these circumstances, at this particular conjuncture, com- 
ing into mind and asking a moment's pause in thought, pro- 
duced in us sensations peculiar to the occasion, of fear and 
indifference, of excitement and composure, of disgust and 
admiration, and of amazement and consternation. 

Passing through these events thus excited, we seemed 
not to note time, but we passed on, exerting the utmost of 
our vision to record in our minds the passing scene of val- 
leys and mountains in all promiscuous shapes, with scrubby 
trees, running streams, and projecting rocks upon rocks. 
In this speedy march, we quickly reached los PueUitos, 
where we received a new relay of mules, and where our 
guard mostly dispersed, deeming that they had protected 
and delivered us from the dangers of the way. Thence to the 
city of Guadalajara being but six miles, and through settle- 
ments, and one hundred and seventy-four miles from Tepic, 
we felt as if we could comparatively travel alone over this 
part of the road, and effect our arrival in safety. 

Los Pueblitos will elicit my attention after my arrival 



208 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

in the city of Guadalajara, and when I shall be extending 
my survey over its rich and beautiful valley. 

Wherefore, I will bid you adieu, resuming my pen when 
a good and exhilarating ablution and repose shall have 
refreshed myself, now in deshabille, and wearied by too long 
and sleepless nights, having passed without due account. 
Adios, 

Senor, 
Agricol 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 209 



LETTER XXXIX. 



Arrival at Guadalajara— Fonda de Frances— Keview— Description of this Hotel— 
Court-Yai-d Ornaments— Site of the City— Dinner— City Water-Streets Side 
Walks —Extent of the City— Las Plazas— Their Ornaments— Mexican Acquaint- 
ances—An American— Climate— Buildings, Public and Private Ai'chitecture— 
Cathedral— Promenades— Portales—Alameda-Churches— Institutions of Learn- 
ing— Beggars Bishop's Palace— Theatre— City Mai-ket-Fruits- Productions- 
Thoroughfare from San Bias to Vera Cruz -Population— City Garrison— City 
Animation— Pursuits. 



Amigo Mio : — Happy am I to have arrived in the city of 
G uadalajara, safe from the tediousness of the road, and the 
thousand and one dangers which surrounded the fertile 
vspots where man should plant and gather in peace ; and safe 
from the road which, binding the Gulf of Mexico and the 
Pacific ocean, as a natural band to annihilate comparative 
distances, should be the pride and rallying point of archi- 
tectural genius, in the progress of steam locomotion. Thrice 
happy was I to book my name on the register at la Fonda 
de Frances, and to feel that I was again restored to the 
bands and within the pale of civilized security. We arrived 
at five o'clock Saturday afternoon ; and having been shown 
my apartment, fronting the piazza, though small yet beau- 
tifully ornamented with shrubs and flowers, all in bloom, 
and receiving my baggage, I felt a joyful thrill of most cor- 
dial emotion, enliven and bid me be thankful, contemplating 
the anticipated dangers, the fatigues and scenes we had 
I 



210 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

passed through in traveling over this tedious, though inter- 
esting, yet to an American, a lonesome road. 

Ha\ ing refreshed mjself thus, I walked out of my room, 
and taking a leisurely survey of the court-yard in the cen 
ter of this hotel, I noticed that in construction and orna- 
ment, it much resembled that de la Fonda de Oro at Tepic. 
Consequently I felt much at home, so far as the interior 
part was concerned ; but not so much thus with reference to 
the exterior balcony, the site of the building, its non-com- 
manding position, and mine host ; though he is a very good 
Frenchman, de vista urbana ; todavia tacaJio en sripliendo 
la mesa de suyo^ con los provisiones requeridos para tal una 
casa. 

This evening I contented myself in remaining at the hotel, 
and on the balcony in front of /« plaza ; and taking a chair. 
I sat down composedly and quietly, amusing myself, and 
observing whatever around or askant might attract my 
attention or appear instructive. With pleasure did I observe 
the rail of the balusters forming the balustrade, strewed 
with plants, flowers and small shrubs, vivacious with green 
foliage and full of buds, and of opened and opening blos- 
soms, emitting within the balcony where I was seated, fumes 
of sweet fragrance. Then too, I noticed climbing rose 
bushes having wended themselves up each column and 
turning the architrave^ having shot along the the entabla- 
tiirsj — there having wound themselves into beatuful fes- 
toons, and still extending their greedy tendrils ; these I 
beheld in bloom, with expanded beauty, waving in a gentle 
breeze. Here, I conteni])lated my geographical position 
compared with the United States, and other foreign coun- 
tries, and the general aspect of this region of country, as I 
entered the city, and concluded tliat this country is like a 
block of marble in the quarry, needing the chisel of a Phi- 
dias, and the eliciting and protecting genius of a Solon, to 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA* 211 

show its latent properties in alto-relievo,, In supervising an 
universal map, I beheld the site of the city of Guadalajara, 
occupying latitude north twenty-one degrees and nine min- 
utes, and longitude west from Greenwich, one hundred and 
three degrees, two minutes and fifteen seconds, with an alti- 
tude of some more than three thousand feet above the 
level of the sea. 

The hour of dining arrived at six o'clock, p. m., and the 
bell ringing a particularly melodious sound, though in a 
strange land with dissimilar tongues,— I repaired to that 
ever welcome saloon after a hard day's ride, and partook of 
mine host's good cheer, which I found on casting my eyes 
over the spacious board, quite ample for those present, and 
much the same as I have heretofore noticed with reference 
to Frenchmen's boards in western Mexico. Shortly after 
being seated at table, and looking about to observe the 
guests, I recognized my Mexican traveling acquaintance 
with his wife, sister-in-law and brother-in-law seated by 

themselves ; and also an American, called Col. McC— , 

known by report to have been connected with Col. Zimer- 
man's expedition bound apparently for Acapulco in aid and 
furtherance of Gen. Alvarez's Revolution, which has placed 
Gen. Comonfort President of the Mexican nation. My 
Mexican friends seemed quite happy here ; the family being 
mostly together, and having fled from cruel persecution 
one hundred miles in the rear of Mazatlan. Owning a rich 
silver mine there, which has been in litigation several years, 
they were forced to depart for personal safety, as it is said 
the opposite party is being mainly successful in its reten- 
tion, by siding there with the new government party, and 
threatening them with imprisonment and expulsion from 
the country in case of a continuance of their pertinacity to 
defend their patrimonial rights, and lodge themselves in 
their just possessions by an appeal to the supreme tribunal 



212 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

of the Republic. They informed me that they intended to 
press the matter before that tribunal and the Mexican Con- 
gress this season ; for the receipts from the esta minera 
amounted to several hundred thousand dollars per year. 
Quite enough to keep up a knot of contention, especially 
moreover, when in possession. 

In alluding to the Colonel, I cannot but express my sur- 
prise to have been informed from his own lips, that he had 
been so badly duped by shrewd maneuvring in San Fran- 
cisco, as to have got himself thus entangled in a foreign 
country, with the appellation of filibuster, and that too, 
among a people who could express no sympathy for Amer- 
icans. He appeared at least sixty years old, gray-headed, 
yet healthy, active and intelligent, but somewhat dejected the 
evening of my arrival and first interview with him ; for he 
was still a prisoner, and ordered by the Governor to leave 
in a few days for the city of Mexico, where his fate was to 
be f'ecided. 

Having rested myself much by a good night's sleep, I 
arose at early dawn and sallied out to take a view of the 
city, when still in slumber of the past night's mirthful pleas- 
ure or debauch. The position and height of the city of 
Guadalajara, in connection with its proximity to rich min- 
ing districts, and being immediately surrounded by a highly 
fertile valley, afford it many valuable and most important 
considerations, with reference to business and residence. 
In addition to these advantages, it possesses a climate 
unsurpassed by any region of country, and called in the 
Spanish language, tierra templada ; it seldom varies more 
than five degrees of heat or cold, — the mean annual tem- 
perature standing at sixty-eight degrees. During the sea- 
son of winter, when the cold winds sweep down the Cor- 
dillera and cause the old citizens with hoary locks, to 
exclaim, niny frio, miuicho fresco^ esta ma/iana, SeJior ; a 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 213 

man from a northern region would litirdly feel a change 
from perpetual spring at snch a time, and barely would 
there be a slight hoar frost to tinge the most delicate blos- 
soms. 

This city is supplied with water from el Cerro del Col, 
nine miles from the city, and is led in by the means of an 
aqueduct, affording an abundance of the crystal fluid for 
private and public appUatices* This city is laid out with 
quite liberal notions, compared with many I have visited, 
with respect to the streets and public squares, or plazas 
publicas. Most of the streets cross each other at right 
angles, and will nearly average thirty feet in width ; though 
the side-walks are narrow. They are all paved in the 
usual manner ; cobble stones are used for the streets, and 
flag stones for the side-walks and narrow walks across the 
streets. I noticed that the streets had been paved in a con- 
cave form, so as to admit of easy drainage. So far as I 
could observe, the early occupants of the city had but little 
notion for civil engineering, as the grade of the city pre- 
sented near the same appearance that it immediately 
assumed after the respiration of its site, from chaotic con- 
fusion. 

The city is made to extend over a large surface, fully 
two miles square ; though the buildings have appropriated 
to them, but a small extent of that spacious firmament above, 
being generally one story high, with level and large court- 
yards in the center. There are at present sixteen public 
squares, or plazas publicas ; still some are small, varying 
much in size, and in ornamental beauty. La Plaza de Armas 
near the center of the city, ranks among the largest and 
carries with it more of the general appearance of business 
on a commercial and financial scale, than those situated in 
other portions of the city. I saw on the north side de esta 
plaza, a spacious edifice, the spire of which towering two 



214 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

hundred feet in the aerial region, with proportions just, 
occupying the lower space, impressed me that this pile, 
made by human will, not like the tower of Babel, is conse- 
crated to holy uses ; and rising above all others and clad 
in fatherly ostentation and pedantic meekness ; that it should 
receive the homage of unknown, or merely known thou- 
sands, at day or night, when the majesty of Heaven is radi- 
ating his beams into the utmost recesses, without bending 
man upon his knees^ or suspending the peispirative throe of 
required labor, surpasses the known law of Nature ; and 
that too, far beyond reasonable conception, when man, the 
reputed image of his Creator, should prostrate himself at 
the tinkling of a bell. 

This building is the cathedral of Guadalajara ; and its 
style of architecture presented a combination of the Ara- 
bian and Moorish, known as the modern gothic style, with 
its pointed arches, clustered pillars, lofty towers and flying 
buttresses. In approaching the city, its conspicuous height 
and peculiar construction, indicate its design in its most 
favorable aspect to the observer, and convince him of the 
solidity and graudeur extant in the concentration of this 
mixed architectural taste. 

The Government House of the Department of Gaudala- 
jara occupies a position in front de esta Plaza, and is a com- 
manding edifice in its external construction, and seems de 
la vista internal to be well adapted, in point of commodious- 
ness, to the exigencies of its design. Its style of architec- 
ture resembles the Doric order, presenting a massive and 
grand appearance ; nevertheless, rich and graceful. Los 
Portales de Comercio, consisting of arcades around three 
large square blocks of houses, are also numbered among 
those noted edifices of this city, which bear their pro})or- 
tion in ornamenting la Plaza de Armas. The streets 0])po- 
site to estos Portales are wide and well paved ; los Portales 



OF THE MEXCIAN CORDILLERA. 215 

are two stories high, abounding in the same columns, arches, 
balconies, and balustrades, as are usual in this style of arch- 
itecture, which to the eye, resembles a mixture of the 
ancient Doric, with the modern combinations of Arabian 
and Moorish. 

The sidewalks under the archivolts of the arcades are 
mechanically paved with square slate-colored flag-stones, 
which are laid remarkably even ; and this united to their 
cooling characteristics, creates and promotes a desire in the 
citizens to promenade here frequently. 

In this city, estos Portales are the chief centering ren- 
dezvous for all classes, from the meanest beggar that dares 
walk the streets, to those who wield millions at their nod ; 
and when one takes his stand in this vicinity and reflects 
upon the characteristic contours of the facial organs of 
man, he is most forcibly reminded of Broadway, the Astor 
House, or City Hall, in New York city, or during the fall 
and winter, the Levee, La Fayette Square, or the St. 
Charles Hotel, in the city of New Orleans. I do not mean 
to say that there are as many foreigners here as there ; but 
that there are equally as many strange peculiarities, which 
would greatly stagger the penetration and judgment of most 
men to analyze and adjust the several classes with method 
and propriety. The upper stories of estos Portales are 
generally occupied by the lessees of those below, with few 
exceptions ; and these are divided into small apartments, 
consisting of stores and shops of various kinds, where Euro- 
pean, Chinese and Mexican manufactures vie with each 
other for purchasers ; though I am not aware that they 
exactly come into collision, so as to have a real gentlemanly 
side-walk fight. However, I have been informed, since this 
notice of them, that they use loud and threatening words, as 
to smuggling, non-intercourse, and high duties. In estos Por- 
tales there are many stalls, and on the side-walks near the 



216 TRAVELS ON THE AYESTERN SLOPE 

columns, tliere are also stands, wliere many of the domestic 
productions and manufactures are exposed for sale, as Mexi- 
can saddlery, shoes, boots, as well as much more of a similar 
nature ; and images, rebozos,serapes, birds of various kinds, 
and of beautiful plumage ; and Chinese baubles, to attract 
the attention, but not to enhance, for a moment, any real, 
but fjxncied pleasures. In fact, all the buildings embracing 
this square are two stories high, and noted for their size, 
commodiousness, adaptation to trade, and their generally 
imposing and architectural construction. Estos Portales 
are held as ecclesiastical property by the convents, and are 
rented out for a small annual consideration. 

El Paseo is another public square for promenading gen- 
erally and evening pleasure ; and which is encompassed on 
either side by commodious buildings ; though it is someAvhat 
in the form of an avenue, shaded with a double row of beau- 
tiful trees, extending their long arms of green and glossy 
foliage, as god-sends m a heated day, when the sun has 
risen to his meridian height, and is vertically emitting his 
beams upon selected spots, rendered concave by circidar 
volcanic fires. To enliven este Paseo and give it rather an 
Elysian enchantment, a crystal rill pours over various-color- 
ed pebbles of small magnitude, murmuring with a gentle 
voice, still not complaining nor accusing ; but whispering, 
come with rae, come with me! This promenade leads to 
plaza alguna, called la Alameda, which has, in point of de- 
sign and combination of beauty in the adjustment of its 
elegantly conceived symmetrical proportions, far exceeded 
any other })lace for public walking, as having fallen under 
my observation in this city. The tasteful arrangement of 
the trees on esta plaza, does not exactly resemble an army 
in battle array ; but they are set promiscuously and some- 
what forest-like ; and la plaza is made to extend over a hirge 
surface, with irregular alleys neatly paved in llig-.^toiie 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 217 

shape. All tlie plots between the trees are ornamented 
with plants, flowers, rosemaries, Castilian roses, and shrubs 
of various kinds of tropical growth, and also, with acacias 
and junipers, — most of which for nine months in the year, 
exhale their rich fragrance, with the addition of perennial 
orange blossoms in close contiguity. In the center of la 
Alameda, there is a beautiful fountain, streaming up by the 
force of internal pressure exerted on higher elevations, and 
darting off in a misty scud, tending to cool the spot and 
emit its genial influence to surrounding objects. Then all 
around the exterior de esta plaza, there flows one of nature's 
limpid rills, over pebbly shapes of hues unlike. 

When man walks into this selected spot by morning or 
evening twilight, considering what is here deposited to 
please his fancy, or enliven his soul with a warm response 
of thankfulness ; contemplating the waving gracefulness of 
perennial foliage, and blossoms of various shades of loveli- 
ness, with the inhalation of their balmy fragrance wafted 
on the breeze ; and hearing the varied notes of the warb- 
ling songsters, like those of the birds of Paradise, and the 
far-famed nighingale ; he feels entranced at the sight of such 
natural representations of a " Deity believed," and volun- 
tarily to exclaim, " How thankful am I for an existence, to 
behold the beauties of nature, the combination of art natu- 
rally extended, and hear all this praised within these lovely 
bowers, by His aerial passengers." 

In this city, aside from the Cathedral, there are nearly 
twenty other churches for divine worship, and these are 
generally spacious buildings, the basements being large to 
accomodate the congregation ; notwithstanding, they would 
not begin to hold all the citizens, were they as much of a 
church-going people here, as I had conceived them to be 
in most catholic countries, before having fallen under my 
notice. But I discovered, as I have heretofore observed, 



218 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

that the gentlemen attended chuicli iiere generally as else- 
where in Mexican cities, leaving this ceremony and 
courtesy to the gentler sex and Indians ; though if any of 
them have committed enormous sins, and evil report should 
get out to this effect, convincing them that they would 
thereby lose some of their " loaves and fishes," they might 
go to church, kneel before the consecrated altar and the 
Saints, saying over a short prayer, and then retiring to the 
confessional where sits the wonted Confessor — the reputed 
vicegerent of the Deity — and to him confess, asking regen- 
eration, and paying a small pittance ! Having thus quieted 
and absolved themselves from all srn, even to many genera- 
tions past, if their sins had not been forgiven, they have 
fitted themselves for occupying their former position in 
society, it making but little difference what sins they might 
have committed. 

These churches alluded to, combine much of the modern 
Gothic style of architecture ; though I could trace by close 
observation, designs of the Byzantium style in their cupo- 
las, slender pillars with tasteless capitals, and in their many 
minarets, though arranged somewhat in confusion. Con- 
nected with these edifices, there are numerous monasteries 
and convents applied for the education of the Clergy in all 
piety and religion, and for the infusion and transmission of 
Catholic tenets and dogmas, whether clear or enigmatical, 
through the influence of female pliancy and delicacy, as 
the characteristics of these institutions might seem to de- 
mand. While here, I was informed that there is quite a 
number of ecclesiastical institutions of learning; though 
both sexes are never taught in the same apartment. The 
institutions of a classic character for both sexes, as well as 
those of an elementary cliaracter, are all endowed and sup- 
ported with liberal donations and franchises for the purpose 
of obtaining books and other requirements to prosecute the 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 219 

arts and sciences, and for their present and future mainten- 
ance and advancement, and also with annual appropriations 
to secure the ends of their organization the more effectually. 
Here I saw manifested much of that highly laudable solic- 
itation on the part of many of the citizens, with reference 
to the progress of the arts and sciences, and also a national 
ambition with respect to the position which these institu- 
tions might sustain, and acquire in the progress of time. 
All or most of the arts and sciences are taught, I have 
been informed, in these halls of learning, and that too — for 
this country — with a great degree of success. The young 
gentlemen and ladies in these institutions are not only 
taught piety and religion as in the more elementaiy schools, 
but they are taught those departments of learning with all 
the touches of thought and of action, which so eminently 
commend their results to the taste and admiration of the 
world. 

In this distant land, and too often traduced, supposing it 
to exist without a soul, I was most happy to note that there 
is also demonstrated a noble public spirit, with reference to 
a careful regard for the sick and infirm, by the erection of 
an hospital and its liberal maintenance ; and also by con- 
tributing to their wants when allowed to appear in the 
streets asking pittances. This is granted in most of Mex- 
ican cities one day in a week, and where I have traveled 
in the llepublic, it appears to have fallen on Saturday. 
During a sojourn of near five months on the western slope 
of the Cordillera in Anahuac, and visiting many of the 
most important towns and cities, traveling at the same time 
much through intervening districts of country, my sympa- 
thy and sensation of charity were seldom pained or excited 
by persons begging, except on prescribed occasions. Ow- 
ing perhaps partly to climate, and partly to the political 
institutions of the Mexican people, a few establishments 



220 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

of an eleemosynary character, I have noticed within the 
bounds of my travels, or through the reports of intelligent 
gentlemen who have explored the country much more than 
myself. 

When the beggars are privileged to appear in the streets, 
it is seldom that they walk about to the annoyance of the 
citizens ; but taking their respective stands, as if divided 
into districts among themselves by mutual consent, they 
either sit down on the edges of the sidewalks, or stand up, 
looking with a desirous gaze upon the passers-by, and on these 
occasions strangers generally bestow small pieces of money, 
while the citizens give them old clothes and food, with 
scarcely ever any money, which really contribute far more 
to their necessary wants. 

The Bishop's palace, the Government mint, and the pub- 
lic theater, are edifices occupying conspicuous positions 
near the center of this city, combining beauty with gran- 
deur and commodiousness, and possessing in their architec- 
tural designs and construction, all the refined and elevated 
characteristics of the Ionic, the Doric, and the Corinthian 
styles, with more modern touches peculiar to each order. 
The public Square, for selling provisions and vegetables, 
near la Plaza de Annas, is made to extend over a 
large surface, presenting to an American a peculiar unique- 
ness, which is certainl}' uncommon except in Spanish coun- 
tries. 

Apparently, all that goes or tends to go for the mainten- 
ance of human, or the lower animal life, is included in this 
market ; and that too, in abundance, suited to the wants 
and tastes of this, a strange people. Such are sold in stalls, 
if I may be allowed tlie expression, mostly open to the air, 
yet covered with Maguey or tule roofs, wliich are sup- 
ported by crotched stakes driven in the ground. In case of 
rain, mats made of tule or Maguey are hung up on the 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 221 

weather side, leaving the rest exposed, except in cases of 
continuous cold storms, or such as the natives term to be 
of that character. 

Here the city market men and women live apparently 
for ages, rearing their little ones about them, who, for pe- 
culiarity of dress and appearance, as also of traits in cant 
and trite sayings, would compete with any of this character 
I ever saw in other cities, and in distant countries. These 
characteristics purchase their supplies of the countrymen 
who surround this city, living in sparse numbers, dispersed 
over the fertile and undulating valley of Guadalajara, 
though at no great distance, in arroyos, caiiadas, y barran- 
cas, where, in this altitude, the finest fruits of the tropics 
are successfully cultivated. Corn, shelled or in roasting or 
boiling ears, beans, or frijoles. Chili Colorado, water and 
musk melons, garlics, fresh meats of various kinds, and also 
poultry in abundance, eggs, whitish butter, of a miserable 
quality, lard, tallow, manioc, potatoes, both Irish and sweet, 
lettuce, radishes, fruits of various kinds, as bananas, plan- 
tains, oranges, citrons, limes, also the mamey Colorado and 
chirrimoya, earthen ware for most all domestic uses, and 
various other articles of home-made manufacture, constitute 
the chief productions which I observed in this market. 

While I was walking through this market of an early 
and bright morning, many of the countrymen, and some of 
the lower class of citizens I noticed seated or standing near 
a luncheon board, partaking of coffee, chocolate, and other 
refreshments, though mostly out in the open air. Nothing 
so much won my attention as the desirable mode of making 
their rich chocolate out of the cacao nuts, which are pul- 
verized, and then boiled in milk, and perfumed with fresh 
and unadulterated vanilla. This dehcious and nutritioi s 
beverage, made in such a manner, cannot be excelled by 
any other people ; still the historian's page traces its com- 



222 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

mon use to the ancient Aztecs, at the time of the conquest. 
Hence the Mexican custom of exposing it for sale in their 
market squares may be traced, as it was customary with 
those people to expose, on certain days, for sale in the pub- 
lic markets, their country productions and manufactures ; 
at which times thousands of the citizens, especially in the 
city of Tenochtitlan, would assemble. 

In my walks throughout the city I noticed other coffee 
and chocolate resorts, which appeared tolerably kept, both 
with regard to neatness and the drinkables and eatables set 
for the accommodation of the public. 

So far as I observed the public houses for the accommo- 
dation of the traveling community, both foreign and native, 
and that of the citizens, I should regard as about equal to 
the fourth class hotels throughout the United States. I 
noticed two Fondas de Frances, and as many as twenty 
Fondas nativas in this city. 

In comparison with similar throroughfares in the United 
States, this, embracing the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific 
Ocean, and passing through a populous city, as Guadalaja- 
ra, of more than 60,000 souls, presents but little travel, as 
the dangers of the way have to be necessarily encountered. 
Consequently few gentlemen travel for pleasure or explor- 
ation ; and seldom have I noticed or heard of ladies of the 
best class in society traveling in this country, from place 
to place, as in other countries, except being connected with 
business of an important nature, or under an escort of Mex- 
ican soldiers. And as most of the citizens live in private 
houses, and prefer this to that of boarding, scarcely any 
patronage, of whatever kind, is extended to las Fondas 
puhlicas. 

The city garrison consists of an extensive series of old 
Spanisli buildings, fronting three streets, and the east side 
of tlio Plaza de Armas, and extends over two-thirds of an 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 228 

entire square. Tliis block of buildings, erected by the 
Spaniards when in possession of the country for a work- 
shop, and being commodious and well adapted, in point of 
location, to the present object, the Mexicans have, since 
taking possession of this portion of the country, retained as 
a fortification, where the government keeps constantly sta- 
tioned from five hundred to one thousand soldiers, as the 
occasion wt^uld seem to require, and ready to obey instant 
orders. Fronting the Plaza de Armas, and the streets near 
the city garrison, a strict patrol is exercised at all hours, 
and no one is allowed to pass on the sidewalk near this cit- 
adel, as a soldier would immediately approach in such a 
case, and order the intended or accidental trespasser to 
walk elsewhere. This looks like arbitrary power assumed 
by a few epaulettes, trimmed with gold lace to show their 
ostentatious moves. Notwithstanding, in this miserably 
governed country, and this miserable material, for the most 
part, to govern, it may be necessary to draw such lines of 
demarcation between citizens and soldiers, for the public 
good ; as the latter might be easily led astray if allowed to 
commingle freely with passers by, which, perhaps, could 
not be well prevented otherwise than as mentioned. 

Like cities of the size of this in other States, it is far 
from being all life and vivacity in the display of business, 
of literature, of fashion, or of amusements, except in the 
grotesque customs of ecclesiastical processions. However, 
in the suburbs of the city, and in the streets seemingly de- 
serted, many of the lower classes are engaged in their own 
houses, where they exercise trades of various kinds, and 
manufacture many articles of commerce, which are con- 
stantly exposed at the public stalls, las tiendas y almacenes 
en los Portales. 

The industrial pursuits in this city are much varied, em- 
bracing carpenters, masons, silversmiths, blacksmiths, hat- 



224 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

ters, shoe-makers, weavers, tinners, tanners, tailors, paint- 
ers, sculptors, barbers, and potters ; also such others as the 
wants of the city and country may seem to demand. These 
do not embrace the fine shades of distinction so common in 
the United States, and among other enlightened powers of 
the globe. 

Longer than I should have done I have required your 
indulgent patience in the perusal of this ; but having felt a 
lively and deep interest in what has, in this city, fallen un- 
der my notice, I had forgotten to revert my attention to the 
consideration of the length of this letter, till now. 
Adios, 

Senor, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA, 225 



LETTEK XL. 



LenmecT Professions - Climate good for Talent Causes aaraiiist Mexican Progress - 
Statesmen —Weekly Gazettes— Patriots— Population i f he City— Wealth there- 
of Country Improvements— Govennnent Expenses— Clergy Exempt - Las Fab- 
ricas de Algodon y Papel de Atemajac— Description of these— Senor Newton. 



Amigo Mio : — Though I am fond of tracing the figures 
and natural positions of countries, both physically and physio- 
logically, to deduce for myself, their constituencies, and learn 
their peculiar characteristics, yet now and then, I love a 
moment's repose ; however I may be attracted and en- 
chained by the ornaments and beauties of nature, every- 
where around me. Thus, amigo mio, I have rendered you 
my apology. 

Turning my attention to the consideration of the city, I 
may observe that, from the information I was able to acquire, 
the learned professions of law and medicine, as well as those 
of tactics, and of divinity, are pursued and cared for by gen- 
tlemen's sons, more for their monied value and gleanings 
of office and position, than for any particular regard or am- 
bition of rendering their names worthy of being transmitted 
to after ages, by the Herculean manifestations of talents 
latent or open, the indigenous productions of other countries ! 
The causes of this indifference to become distinguished in 
the arts and sciences, which so generally prevails in this 
Republic, I trace not to the climate ; for the climate is as 



226 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

varied as the circumstances of that requirement may be 
necessary to promote a healthful pursuit in the attainment 
of those branches of literature, so useful and elevating to 
man in all the various offices of life. 

Owing to the peculiar position which this country occu- 
pies geographically, it is divided according to its altitudes 
into three distinct climates ; to wit : The first embraces the 
plains along the coast, called by the Mexicans tierras call- 
entes ; producing cotton, sugar, indigo, plantains and other 
tropical fruits ; the second the declivities of the Cordillera, 
called tierras templadas, producing many of the grains and 
fruits of the temperate zones on their rolling slopes, but en 
arroyos, canadas, y barrancas ; the staples and fruits of las 
tierras calientes ; and the third, the plains elevated more 
than seven thousand two hundred and eighteen feet above 
the sea, termed tiei^a^frias, encompassing the whole table 
land of Mexico, and considered cold by the natives, although 
the ordinary warmth is much the same as that of Rome. 
And did Rome have no scholars in the arts, sciences, or 
tactics, in the days of her glory when she was not bound 
hand and foot, mind and matter, in one single notion of 
Church and State ? There are other causes than this, 
which operate most powerfully and naturally against the 
progress of the Mexicans ; and the chief of which results 
from the intermixture of the different races, white and In- 
dian, mostly. The one becomes degraded, while the other 
rises in the scale of progress. Another cause is the right 
of suftrage being extended to all colors, which nearly levels 
the white man, with all his boasted line of ancestral birth, 
in such a country, to the condition of the wild man of the 
forest ! 

In this city, I had the jjleasure of becoming acquainted 
with a few Mexican statesmen ; though prior to this, in 
Mazathm and Tepic, the same acquaintance had been ex- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 227 

tended to me, during my short sojourn in each. Usually 
they are gentlemen of refined tastes, polished education, 
and of general information, having been educated in distant 
lands ; and however good and talented they may be by 
nature or education, their task, for the onward improvement 
of the country, in an agricultural or scientific point of view, 
is a hard one, fettered and entrammeled by the influence of 
the clergy, continually binding like the grasp of Hercules, the 
iron hands oi Church and State together, a moral and politi- 
cal curse and ruin to the fairest spot of God's footstool ! 
While here, I noticed that there were published several 
weekly Gazettes ; though they were extremely small, pos- 
sessing little or no information, and no independence of 
character or of thought, being either under the strict sur- 
veillance of the Clergy or the Government. Freedom of 
speech, freedom of action, and freedom of the press, being 
accountable for a misuse of the same, constitute, according 
to natural law, a free and sovereign people ; and until these 
points of natural rights are arrived at in a State,- — can that 
State be free ? Is Mexico free of thralldom, not special 
but common ? The patriots of other nations should mourn 
for her, so fair and beautiful, so full of romance and tower- 
ing thought, so abundant in the fecundity of nature, yet as 
plaintive for rule and order ! 

Conversing with a gentleman of intelligence, a native 
Mexican, I discovered, from a recent computation of the 
citizens in la ciudad de Guadalajara, that the population is 
estimated at some over sixty thousand, and fully eleven- 
twelfths of whom are at least mixerl, and representatives of 
most any other race than the Castilian. This latter class 
and also a few of the former, are rich, possessing much val- 
uable city property, and landed estates in the country, con- 
sisting ofranchos y haciendas where they have persons call- 
ed Superintendentes reside and take chargeof their affairs, 



228 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

who are allowed to employ help under their direction, though 
generally as the occasion may require. JSstos ranchos y 
estas haciendas produce, in portions of them, the grains of 
the temperate zones, and in other portions, cotton and sugar- 
cane ; and besides these productions, grazing in all its de- 
partments is much attended to ; though I saw in this region 
of country no improvements to reduce agriculture to a regu- 
lar system ; but such as the Romans and Aztecs had used 
by long inheritance, even before the Goths and Spaniards 
took Espana and Anahuac. If such were introduced and 
used, they would have a wonderful influence and spring of 
action to promote this branch of industry and make much 
more certain the common productions of the country, by 
preparing mainly the ground and cultivating it deeply during 
the dry season to obviate the effect of the drought. In my 
observations w'ilh respect to the stock of the country, such 
as horses, mules, cattle, sheep and hogs, I could see no pro- 
gress of improvement in the way of importing foreign stock 
for crossing with choice home selections which is so univer- 
sally acknowledged to be the only means to attain such an 
object ; as developments can be obtained only through this 
process towards perfection both in the animal and vegeta- 
ble kingdom. 

Scarcely any attention is bestowed either publicly or 
privately concerning the improvements of the roads, the 
construction of bridges generally, the application of ferry- 
boats, or tliat of the grading of hills and mountain slopes. 
From this city there are wagon and carriage roads leading 
to San Bias on the west, to Santa Fe on the north, to Vera 
Cruz on the east, and to Za])otlan and Morelia on the 
south ; however, they have not been much improved since 
the date of Mexican Independence. The same custom as 
to using pack mules prevails now, as did in the period of 
S))aiiish (loniination. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 229 

The manner of defraying the expenses of the Mexican 
Government, and that of the city, are by the imposition of 
enormously high duties on foreign importations, and by 
granting certain privileges and franchisesj commensurate 
with the objects and emoluments of trades and commercial 
pursuits. Direct taxation on personal or real estate is 
light and but seldom resorted to, except in case of great 
emergency ; consequently, the poor man with a large 
family, not being worth one thousand dollars, but being 
a large consumer, is taxed frequently much more than those 
worth five hundred thousand, or even a million of dollars. 
In this view, two-thirds of the whole landed estate in Mex- 
ico, are exempt from any contribution towards the support 
of the Government, as they belong to the Clergy. The 
latter class being few in comparison with the body politic, 
and only one-third of the landed estate being divided 
among the mass, the burden of the Government devolves 
upon the remarkably few owning real estate, and the 
masses who toil for a mere subsistence. The city, as well 
as the country rents are low ; the proprietors usually 
intending to rent or farm out their property, so as to nett 
them five per cent, on their investment or valuation of the 
possessions so rented. 

Near a league from Guadalajara, T rode out in a city 
coach, on the first morning after my arrival, to pay my 
respects to one of our own countrymen, Frederick Newton, 
who hailed from Massachusetts. It was in the early part 
of April, and the morning sun shone brilliantly on sur- 
rounding objects, while the giddy horses and coachman 
pranced along in joyous expectancy of a little earning for 
rented labor ; and while I cast my eyes from the coach 
windows to whichsoever way, to inform my reason, and 
inspire my soul with new notions of a peculiar and strange 
people. The intervening tract seemed little cultivated or 



230 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

subdued by man, after leaving the suburbs, till my near 
approach to la Fabrica de Algodon de Atemajac, which is 
situated five-sixths of the distance ; though I must not 
omit to mention our crossing a heavy and well constructed 
bridge, made over a mountain stream, called Atemajac ; 
yet comparatively dry, except in the rainy season. Este 
puente is near a mile and a-half de la ciudad, of more 
than three hundred feet long, and built upon stone arcades, 
and composed wholly of stones, both round and flag ; the 
surface being paved with cobbles of an average size. This 
being north of the city, and apparently upon un arroyo seco 
de el rio de Santiago, which in summer, rises superfluent 
with water, is a point of great consideration to the Govern- 
ment. At the terminus of this bridge on the north, there is 
la Garita of the Government for receiving the imposts 
laid on agricultural productions, which would seem to minds 
of other nations like an unjust imposition upon the industry 
of the country. For the bulwarks of nations are not the 
individual governments themselves, but are composed of 
the industry, the contentment and prosperity of those who 
form the moving machine, the locomotive power of govern- 
ment. Therefore, a government, or those who are promoted 
to look out for the public good, should never directly over- 
tax the industry of the country, but encourage and protect 
it in all possible ways ; nor indirectly tax by imposts more 
than enough to set in motion, and sustain the tvheeh of the 
body politic, in the most frugal manner. For, if the indi- 
viduals composing the nation are prosperous and rich, the 
government is also, and ready to meet any emergencies. 
The object de la Garita is to collect an impost otf of the 
agricultural producer, for the privilege of selling tlie effects 
of his labor in the city. J^stas Garitas are established on 
all the thoroughfares a short distance out of the city, and 
ibr the same purposes as heretofore mentioned. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 231 

Most of the surface of the valley of Guadalajara is much 
broken and cut into gulches, formed by the heavy tropical 
rains in summer, which seem to deluge the country, and 
devastate many a fertile field, which, in the days of yore, 
was clad with many a shrub, and many a blade of grass, 
and many a flower waving in the gentle, zephyr breeze- 
Turning my attention again to my first morning visit, 
the great object of note which invited my notice after leav- 
ing the bridge, was la Fabrica de Algodon, and the ground 
about it. It is situated on a slight declivity from a level 
surface, and supplied with an abundance of water from an 
aqueduct, which is led from a small mountain stream 
formed by springs ; this serves also for the purpose of 
irrigation, and likewise, for that of propelling una Fabrica 
de Papel, owned by the same company, and another Fabrica 
de Algodon, further down the stream and owned by another 
company. This aqueduct in part, and the dams for hold- 
ing the water, consist of solid masonry. La Fabrica 
prima is near three hundred feet long, and one hundred 
feet wide, consisting of two stories in height, and of as many 
apartments as aie adapted to the wants of the establishment. 
It is constructed in the form of a hollow, oblong square in 
front and rear, including all the appurtenances and buildings, 
which in front of the main building, extend near six hun- 
dred feet on either side ; and this plot is ornamented with 
many orange trees promiscuously set out, and with a gentle 
rill purling among them ; and which in rear from the main 
building, extend about sixty feet, having in close proximity 
a beautiful and highly ornamented pleasure garden, with 
streaming fountains and rare collections of flowers, plants, 
shrubs and trees from different zones, that here, like in 
their father-land, find a nurturing care and the distilled 
dews gently descending from Heaven. Esta Fabrica runs 
ninety looms, and employs two hundred native operatives, 



232 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

besides several American mechanics, and one machinist, 
with a Superintendent ; and the machinery including the 
whole mechanical apparatus, is constructed on a scale in 
proportion to the demand of the labor just mentioned. La 
Fahrica de Papd is near half a mile from this, and occu- 
pies a seeming concavity compared with the country around. 

La Casa for tiie superintendent is detached from the 
paper factory near three hundred feet, having a neatly dec- 
orated yard in front, with a variety of flowers, plants, 
shrubs, and trees, mostly in modest bloom, filling the air 
with odoriferous perfumery. And in the rear of the main 
residence, are adjusted the out-houses and appurtenances 
of such a character as to impress one with order and con- 
venience. 

The Superintendent of this establishment is Seiior New- 
ton, as I before mentioned, v.hom I found, on a short 
acquaintance, to abound with courtesy, frankness and intel- 
ligence. He possesses to a remarkable extent, all those 
noble characteristics so becoming an American in a foreign 
land, with eyes, countenance and heart, open to be the 
medium of pleasure and information to one of his country- 
men. He had been in this region of country for eight years, 
and since the construction of this factory. He now speaks 
and writes the Spanish language with propriety and ease ; 
and he receives a liberal remuneration for his skill and 
knowledge in superintending this establishment. Through- 
out the pleasure-grounds and the several departments of 
this factory, Seiior Newton conducted me, taking a lively 
interest in imparting much with reference to what we were 
noticing, and the character and past history of tlie country, 
especially since his arrival. 

Here I saw imported, all the most common improve- 
ments made use of in the United States, and adjusted in 
the combination of requirements, to ejffect the same ends. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 233 

From my knowledge of mechanism, and its application to 
man's convenience, I was much impressed with the neat- 
ness and system of the several apartments, and of the 
machinery in the respective positions, which it seemed to 
occupy, in order to complete the design of the constructor. 
In these respects it indicated labor-saving ; and in fact todas 
las Fahricas de algodon y de papel, throughout the Repub- 
lic, are the only examples of this intention, which forcibly 
drew my admiration, causing me thus to observe in this por- 
tion of my journal. 

The water wheel propelling this factory, is made of cast- 
iron, and was imported from New Jersey several years since. 
It is forty feet in diameter, well proportioned, susceptible 
of being taken apart, yet constructed with a view to com- 
pactness, strength and symmetrical beauty. The location 
where it is adjusted, is in the form of two capital Ls inverted, 
and on the west side of the main building. It is enclosed by 
a high stone v,^all ; however, there is a shed projecting out, 
which amply protects it from the influence of the weather, 
beating rains, or tropical sun. Its position is such when 
hung upon its axis that its lower surface is twenty feet 
below the common level of the ground ; and it is set and 
continued in motion by the means of the water from the 
aqueduct before alluded to, flowing through a small sluice 
constructed upon arches, with the form of continuous 
arcades, having a horizontal upper surface. Its motion is 
easy, graceful, and grand, — the water pouring upon it about 
five feet from its upper surface, and twenty-five feet from 
the basement floor. Its steady, strong and planetary move- 
ments, from sun to sun, and the consequences which it dem- 
onstrates in the performance of labor, combine to excite 
the wonder and admiration, the applause and reverence of 
the whole community. And many of the lower classes 

T 



234 



TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



have been known to ask ; " Is there another such in that 
strange land?'' 

In my next I shall close my description of this factory, 
and I shall have passed on to other considerations of equal 
interest to you. 

AdioSj 

Senor, 
Agricola, 

ClNClNNATtJS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 235 



LETTER XLI. 



Further Description of the Factories aforesaid— Their Architecture— Pen of Olassa- 
gara— His Education and Principles— His Cotton Factory— La Fabrlca de Algo- 
don de Escoba— Superintendent thereof— Description of the Residences of Seiior 
Lowrle, and Seiior Olassagara, and of the Cotton Factory- Cotton stuffs -Cot 
ton Imported -That groivn ifl the Country- Stocis thereof one year in advance 
—Prices of Cotton Cloth. 



Amigo Mio : — Resuming my labor at early morn, with 
the sun shining most brilliantly, 1 now invite you to return 
to the consideration of the paper factory, where I left off 
at the close of my last. 

The cost of this iron wheel, delivered at this place by 
the way of Vera Cruz, on Mexican carts and wagons, arose 
to the sum of ten thousand dollars. The number of hands 
occupied in this factory generally rises to that of seventy- 
five, with fourteen engines and two machines, all of which 
are worked twelve hours per day ; and these considerations 
will indicate nearly the amount of paper, of various kinds, 
manufactured in this establishment in the course of a year, 
supposing the whole apparatus to be kept in successful 
operation. 

These two factories, cotton and paper, I was informed 
had cost the sum of seven hundred thousand dollars, when 
their whole appurtenances were completed for running; and 



236 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

that both, after deducting all disbursements, return to the 
common stock company a nett annual profit of one hun- 
dred thousand dollars. The style of architecture observ- 
ed with reference to these buildings under consideration, 
may be referred somewhat to the modern Gothic and Tuscan 
orders, however, to me it seemed rather difficult to trace any 
other orders than those of primitive convenience. 

Returning to the city, and in a few days after having 
visited these establishments, I became acquainted through 
the kind office of Seiior Augsburg with Seiior Olassagara, 
of Guadalajara, a gentleman who has figured much in the 
arena of Mexican politics, during the iron sway of Gen. 
Santa Anna ; however, he is possessed of liberal and exten- 
ded notions with regard to government affairs being con- 
ducted on such principles as will affiDrd stability and char- 
acter to the governed. He was educated in England, hav- 
ing gone there when young, and has traveled extensively 
on the continent of Europe, and also on the American. 
Consequently, naturally quick of perception, and the appli- 
cation of new principles founded on reason and sense, he 
now stands like a pillar of light before his countrymen, in 
the advancement of the arts and sciences, and in the proud 
progress of horticultural and agricultural pursuits. He has 
a family of several children, upon whom he has exerted a 
parental and powerful influence with reference to their 
attaining a liberal education ; and a portion of them 
were educated in the United States. And I was informed 
by a member of this family, that there were several Mex- 
icans of this city, who have been educated there and also 
in Europe. 

Learning that Sefior Olassagara had una Fabrica de 
Algodon, near five leagues from tlie city of Gaudalajara, in 
a northwest direction, and receiving an invitation to visit it 
with liim^clf in a few days, I deferred waiting that time, 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 237 

owing to other engagements in contemplation, and again 
received the kind office of Senor Augsburgh in hiring for 
my use a servant and two horses well caparisoned, to 
accompany me to la Fahrica de algodon de Escoha. I felt 
as if I might hazard my life thus far, comparatively alone ; 
for in the morning of the same day, report came into town, 
that a market-man on the same road had been robbed of 
his hard earnings ; and that the day before, three or four 
ladrones had been shot, closely pursued by the police. 
However, having armed myself well for the occasion, and 
being determined I would not be overcome without a strug- 
gle for life, I sallied forth at ten o'clock, A. M., with my 
servant in the rear, on a bounding lope through the streets, 
the common gait of the country ; for at this time of the day, 
few persons appear walking about, as the sun increases his 
vertical heat. 

Taking the road leading towards Tepic, with a good 
horse under me, and supple in motion, I soon came out into 
the open valley of Guadalajfira, the configuration and 
apparent characteristics of which, I shall dwell somewhat 
upon, after I shall have written what I have presently in 
view. 

I traveled on, pasing in my way wheat and barley fields 
ready for the sickle, which were sown in September or 
October of last year, (1855). In noticing the growth and 
condition of these grains growing on the ground, I soon 
arrived at the conclusion that Geres, the guardian of corn 
or grain, had not of late years extended her care over this 
once most fertile region ; for no forethought seemed to 
have been exercised in the endeavor to retain in the soil, 
its natural fecundity. Now and then I passed places where 
my guide would exclaim : Cuida, Guida, amigo mio, mirn, 
mira, aca, olid I and that too, with a loud voice. 

I must confess that, when I looked into the gulches 



238 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

many times on each side of the road, as I passed along, 
seeing that they were from twenty to thirty feet deep, I 
thought them fit habitations for ladrones. Sometimes T rode 
forward in this disagreeable suspense between an instant 
attack and defence, and that of life or death, not daring to 
turn back for fear that it might indicate a want of courage ; 
therefore, I pushed on, and soon found myself descending a 
slight declivity towards a beautiful concave surface, where 
stood, in self-respect and in self-confidence, la Fabrica de 
Algodon de Escoba, with its neat residences, w^ell-arranged 
outbuildings and comely church. As near as I could 
observe these from their present appearances, they were 
constructed out of soft-burnt bricks, plastered on both sides, 
and also white-washed with a finished degree of neatness, 
possessing one story in height, and usually thick walls. 
They were appropriated severally to the Superintendent 
with his family, and also to the numerous operatives 
attached to the establishment. Here, by Seiior Lowerie 
and family I received a most cordial welcome, and felt 
rescued from the almost imminent danojer attending the 
travel of this road. After a wash and tasteful repast, we, 
in accordance with the custom of the country, poured from 
the liquid urn, an oblation in remembrance of our father- 
land ; then we turned our conversation in the current 
where our minds had been lately most excited, for near 
here, two days previous, two ladrones had been killed. In 
a moment I related my excited suspicions as to the safety 
of traveling in this region, and what I had undergone in 
mind on my way out. He confirmed what I had heard 
and said ; then he mentioned an instance of his intending to 
go to the city only a short period prior to this, and an attack 
on him by a party of ladrones, not far from his residence, 
who, having robbed him of a gold watch, his purse, horse 
and pistols, tumbled liim into one of those deep gulches, 



U 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 239 

which they told him he mutst not leave on pain of death, 
nor speak aloud, till dark, for there were several others 
robbed and nestled down in the gulch who had been as 
kindly cared for as himself. When night had rolled her 
sable mantle with silver locks sometimes apparent over 
•the overt acts of man, Senor Lowerie carefully wound his 
lonely way up the precipitous ascent, where he had been 
hurled by the marauding vultures, and worked himself 
home, much bruised and severely dealt with. 

That time his revolvers missed fire, and he suffered the 
penalty of carelessness. After this interview, he informed 
me that he had been in the country near fifteen years, and 
comparatively raised his family of children here, consisting 
of several sons and one daughter. Though most of his 
sons had been sent to the United States to receive the 
advantages of an education, yet his wife could not persuade 
herself to spare their daughter, as she is the only one, and 
so much an associate for her mother, especially when Seiior 
Lowerie had necessarily to attend to the requirements of 
the Factory. 

The residence is commodious, consisting of several 
apartments, the height of twelve feet between the joists, of 
large and strong doors and windows, though the latter have 
iron rods on the outside with glass sashed and placed 
within, which combine defence with neatness. The style 
of architecture observed in this dwelling, reminded me of 
a mixed order, derived from those nations, who had years 
ago, made Spain the theatre of war, the pride of ambition. 
Therefore, you can see here borrowed, a little of the mod- 
ern Spanish, Moorish with the Arabian, the Gothic, and 
the Composite. I could but admire the basement, the walls, 
the pedestals, the columns, the arches, the entablature, the 
piedments, and the neatly terraced roof, with a small para- 
pet, raised as if for protection. On the south side are the 



240 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

outhouses adjoining, with a small garden of fruit-bearing 
trees, composed of apple, peach, plum, cherry and pear, 
with a small variety of tropical plants and fruit trees. 
Surrounding this plot, there is a wall near fifteen feet high, 
and over the surface of the ground, therQ pours a beautiful 
yet small rill, which animates the verdure, the plants and 
trees within, shedding a delightful and cooling influence. 
On the east and north sides de la casa, is situated the 
flower and pleasure ground, including plants, flowers, 
shrubs and trees, ornamental and elevating 1 They consist 
mostly, or rather in part, of pinks of different kinds, tulips, 
marigolds, lilies, daisies, hyacinths, rosemaries, varied rose 
bushes both in pots and otherwise, the pride of India, the 
juniper, the banian, the acacia, the holly, the locust, the 
Norwegian pine, and the cedar of Tyria, together with 
many others ; and these are all trained or eared for by the 
gentle, yet directing voice of Senorita Lowerie, an Amer- 
ican lady of refined taste and bland accomplishments. On 
the north, and near the house or main residence, there is a 
crystal fountain sentHng its limpid sj^ray high up into the 
air, which descends, as if by natural distillation, to cheer 
and enliven the varied growth from different climes. On 
the west, there is ?m« plaza or a park, composed of five 
acres, adorned with a fountain near the centre, and witli 
shade and orange trees promiscuously set out, also with a 
variety of rose bushes and slnmbs, beautifully adjusted in 
the plots between. 

There is a promenade Sivonnd esta plaza, with octangular 
walks converging to the center, whei^ many trees and 
shrubs wave to the wind ; and besides, to add to the com- 
fort and a charm to home, there is a row of brick seats 
made after the manner of those at Mazatlan, encircling the 
whole square, except one bench loft out near the fi'ont of 
the house, that the view, en masse, may not be interrupted 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 241 

either low or high. On the north, south and west sides 
de esta plaza, there is a row of houses for the occupation of 
the Factory operatives, where they all seemed to be com- 
fortably provided, with reference to a free circulation of 
air, to pleasure, sustenance, education and religion. Still 
further on westwardly, amigo mio, you may pass with me 
into another square, surrounded by the houses of the oper- 
atives, with a neat little chapel in the center, where sins 
are forgiven by a fatherly soul coming out from the city ; 
and the devout of heart are prayed for, yet, with small 
expectancies. Passing through this, and a narrow lane, I 
arrived, in company with Senorita Lowerie and one of her 
brothers, at the gate leading into the spacious and highly 
ornamented grounds of Senor Olassagara, where he spends 
a part of his time, and where some member of his family 
is mostly ever present. The area of his pleasure and 
orchard grounds extends over three hundred acres, and 
one-third of it is laid out with taste and elegance, combin- 
ing the useful and ornamental. La casa principal sets back 
at least five hundred feet from the stone wall at the 
entrance gate, and between this and the house, there is an 
alley twenty feet wide, ornamented on either side with 
shade and fruit trees, with here and there a flowering shrub, 
1 3 add variety and unique beauty to the scene in front and 
around whithersoever you turn your eye. 

The house is of two stories high, large — at least eighty 
by eighty feet — in the form of four Ls half inverted, both in 
front and rear ; and each of the recesses thus formed, is 
thirty feet long and fifteen feet wide. The base of the 
building is constructed of stone even to, or just above the 
level of the ground ; however, the chief materials are soft 
burnt bricks. The stories are high between the joists ; the 
walls are thick ; the doors and windows are large, and the 
piers between them are narrow. 
J* 



242 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

The recess in the front and rear of the house, is orna- 
mented with fluted columns and two pilasters resting on 
pedestals, both in the lower and upper story, and extending 
in each case to the entablature which encircles the build- 
ing. The style of architecture observed with regard to 
the columns, indicated the Corinthian order ; though in the 
construction of other parts of this residence, I thought I 
could trace that of the Ionic. From the verandah, below 
and above, you enter a spacious hall — twenty feet wide, 
which admits of a free circulation of the air, there being 
doors at each end ; still the lower verandah also leads into 
spacious vestibules on either side of the hall door, which 
are finished and furnished with taste and elegance. Balus- 
trades between the lower and upper columns are added to 
increase the massive grandeur of the style. The outside 
and the columns are plastered with a hydraulic cement ; 
and then the outer surface of the building is clouded and 
penciled in imitation of Cerulian marble, cut into oblong- 
squares. The inside surface is finished with the well known 
plaster of Paris. The several apartments, in respect to 
woodwork, are neatly finished with a fragrant cedar, some- 
what resembling the California redwood. This cedar, being 
so impregnated with its natural rich perfume, that it im- 
parts its balmy odor, combining with it, when one is housed 
in a room where it abounds, a most cordial and thankful 
welcome. The roof is terraced, with a parapet wall 
near three feet high ; and for each apartment there 
ascends a chimney six feet high above the terrace, and in 
this respect la casa much resembles the architecture of 
other countries. So far as I could observe with propriety, 
I noticed that the apartments, both below and above, were 
furnished in an appropriate degree to the establishment, 
receiving the stores of many a foreign country to contiib- 
ute to a rertned and cultivated taste. 



• OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 243 

The pleasure and fruit ground, being divided into appro- 
priate and suitable compartments and plots, contributes 
much to the pleasure of the scenery, and a residence at 
Escoba. From a distance there flows a crystal stream that 
gently ripples over this pleasure ground, feeding the misty 
fountains and the verdant, lovely aspect around. The 
promenades, walks and alleys, are laid out in tasteful curves ; 
however, some are with straight lines, yet all converging to 
join a circular walk around the terrace, encircling this man- 
sion. This terrace, near two feet above the level of the 
ground, is beautifully ornamented with tesselated pavement, 
and that too, in such a manner, as to imitate colors and gra- 
dations of painting. 

The promenades and alleys are fringed with grasses, kept 
green and shorn of their rapid growth, as the occasion and 
taste may dictate. On the plots of a curved, a square, a 
triangular, a rectangular, and an octangular shape, I saw 
promiscuously, yet with thought and elegance, rare collec- 
tions arranged of plants, flowers, shrubs, shade and fruit 
trees, mostly in bloom, uniting in one general assemblage 
those of the three zones, and presenting to the eye their pecu- 
liar characteristics, with all their varied shades and aspects 
of beauty, of which the mind can reasonably conceive. 
Sefior Olassagara has spared no pains in importing foreign 
fruit trees from the best nurseries in the States of New 
York and New Jersey ; and they all appeared to be doing 
well, having borne some fruit far surpassing any of the 
native of a similar class, both in point of size, flavor and 
beauty. The two-thirds of this ground are appropriated 
to the growth of the Lebanon cedar ; the seeds having 
been sown promiscuously a few years since. Many of the 
young trees are now from ten to fifteen feet high, and will 
very soon requite the labor bestowed, in their convenient 
application to agricultural and mechanical requirements. 



244 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

La Fahrica de Algodon is situated about three hundred 
feet northeastwardly of the residence of Seiior Lowerie, is 
large and commodious, being two hundred feet long, by 
eighty wide, and consisting of two stories in height. The 
wall is thick, and the piers narrow, abounding with glass 
windows and heavy doors, admitting however of free ven- 
tilation, besides many ventiducts, promoting thereby, health- 
ful apartments for the operatives. The roof is terraced, 
with a parapet extending four feet above its surface, on a 
line with the wall, and of the same thickness. In fact the 
roofs of most of the buildings here resemble a fortification. 
All the appurtenances requisite to perpetuate the move- 
ments of this factory, have their several apartments 
assigned to them, with commendable order and arrange- 
ment, and also skillful mechanics, together with an experi- 
enced machinist. It is propelled by water-power, consist- 
ing of a wheel thirty-eight feet in diameter, made of wood ; 
this runs one hundred looms through the year, with all the 
other requisites appertaining to the factory. 

The German commercial houses of the city of Guada- 
lajara, largely import cotton stuffs ; however, the prices of 
the home stuffs manufactured at all the factories, which have 
come under my observation in the country, average twenty- 
five cents per yard, yet sometimes more or less, depend- 
ing upon the quantity in the market, the tariff on such stuffs, 
and the quality of the home manufactures. Some of the 
raw cotton is grown in the country, but nearer the coast ; 
although a considerable quantum of the amount manufac- 
tured, and that of the finest and cleanest qualities, is impor- 
ted from New Orleans by the way of Tampico, on the Gulf 
of Mexico, and packed on mules across the country, in 
bales of one hundred and fifty pounds weight each, — two 
making a mule-load. Notwithstanding, I must not omit to 



*, 



OF THE MEXICAN COEDILLEEA. 245 

mention that these factories receive large importations of 
fine cotton also, from Peru in South America. 

When conversing with Sefior Olassagara with reference 
to the culture of cotton in the low, as well as in many of 
the high altitudes of this country, he seemed to think it 
wholly practicable, with the exception of the want of fixed 
or available labor at one's will. This year, I understand 
that it is his intention to plant one thousand acres of cotton 
near Lake Chapala, in company with a wealthy Mexican, 
owning una hacienda fertil alia, as well adapted to the 
growth of cotton, and possessing as fine and as long a sta- 
ple, as the sea-island cotton grown on the eastern coast of 
the United States. This enterprise succeeding, will be of 
the utmost importance in advancing the prosperity of the 
cotton manufacturing interests in this region of country ; for 
others will introduce cotton gins from the United States, 
and study the characteristics of cotton growing. All the 
cotton factories which I have yet seen in Mexico, are 
obliged to keep ahead one year's stock of the raw material, 
owing to the uncertainties attending its annual growth and 
maturity, from the defect of its cultivation or the season, and 
the adventures incurred by importing and packing it into 
the interior. That which is imported from New Orleans 
is worth, when delivered here, from twenty to thirty cents 
a pound, depending on the quality. 

Having remained a few days under the cordial enter- 
tainment of Senor Lowerie and family ; early in the morn- 
ing, ere the marauding ladrones had awakened from the 
effects of their prowlings, horses were saddled for myself 
and servant, and taking a coyish repast of chocolate and 
cake, and bidding along and happy farewell to amigos mios, 
I mounted my horse, being well armed and attended. Pass- 
ing along at a hurried pace, I soon bade adieu to the seen- 



246 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

ery so beautiful and tasteful around la Escoba, and quickly- 
made a safe retreat into the city of Guadalajara. 
Adios, 
Senor, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 247 



LETTER XLII. 

Description of the Valley of Guadalajai'a— Its Outline Scenery— San Pedro, a Fash- 
ionable Place of Kesort— Famine in Mexico— Want of Internal Improvements- 
Carriages Let— Dress among the different Classes of the Community— Rio de 
Santiago— Zapopan — Pueblitos. 

Amigo Mio .'—Having promised on my return to the 
city, that I would entertain you with a short description of 
some of the characteristics of the valley of Guadalajara, it 
is now my pleasure and time to absolve myself from that 
obligation, by an endeavor to a compliance. Its constitu- 
tional, or rather configurative shape, is grand and imposing. 
Measuring near ten leagues in diameter, with a seeming 
concave surface, yet rolling and broken in places ; with hillSj 
mountain ridges and peaks of various forms and. heights, 
encircling it, as if nature, in her volcanic throes, had de- 
signed this a fortress, consisting, in apparent view, of main- 
works, out-works, and particular defences. Many of the 
mountain ridges and peaks, many of their declivities, gulches, 
valleys and plains, extending far out, I observed capped, 
flanked, based, and bottomed, with primitive, secondary, ter- 
tiary, volcanic, diluvial, and alluvial rocks, stones, and lava, 
with their concomitants, and vice versa, showing the lapse 
of hoary ages ; slight indications and more distinct of organic 



248 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

remains of animals previously existing ; the scoria with 
lava recently erupted, or so late as not to have apparently 
decomposed ; and stones and gravels formed and located by 
the attrition of water, and the momentum of mountain floods. 
Notwithstanding much of the uneven surface of the valley, 
and its being cut up by gulches ; still, I noticed aside from 
the scenery just mentioned, that it abounded with pictur- 
esque landscapes of rare beauty. Its small mounds and 
undulating plains being studded with ranchos, haciendas, 
trees of various growths, though stunted, rills, streams and 
springs, and near by them, villas overleaping thought in 
beauty and luxuriance, gladden the heart, and animate the 
mind to a love and reverence of nature and art. 

Within two leagues of the city, and on the main road to 
the city of Mexico, there is a small pueblo called San Pe- 
dro, bearing eastwardly. This is the fashionable resort, 
like Balston Spa, or Saratoga Springs, for many persons of 
leisure and wealth, to go and spend a while, especially, 
when the sickly season prevails. There, the mansions of 
tlie rich are beautifully and elegantly ornamented, equal to 
any I have described. I am not particularly aware of any 
epidemic prevailing in this city, or that it is common for 
such, nor of any diseases, such as fevers and the like, 
which are not the products of warm climates. Still in 
various altitudes, sometimes, from the scarcity of provis- 
ions, and the extreme indolence of the mass of the lower 
classes, famine, in many parts ensues, bringing in its train, 
its car-load of overwhelming evils, diseases, sickness and 
death. However, this might be measurably or wholly 
avoided by internal improvements to facilitate inland inter- 
commui^ication. 

Near la Plaza de Armas, there are ever in readiness for 
hire, city coaches, at least, between sunrise and sunset. 
Their charges are remarkablv rea^sonable, beiiifir one-half 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 249 

dollar per hour, or nearly three dollars per day. I discov- 
ered this a matter of great convenience, both to citizens and 
foreigners visiting Guadalajara. There is, as usual at such 
stands both in Mexico and the United States, much strife 
among the coachmen to get preferred by the person desiring 
to hire a coach ; and this to a stranger becomes very 
annoying, and sometimes, even a curse to a seeming conve- 
nience. To prevent difficulties arising as to the time the 
hired coach is absent, there is a register's office near at 
hand, with a city officer to take charge of it, whose duty it 
is to record the name and number of the coach, at the time 
it leaves, giving also, such person a slip of paper with 
the rates of hire and the time of leaving ; otherwise the 
coachmen might impose upon the public. 

The manners of the upper class of citizens are easy and 
graceful, without ostentation, blended with courtesy and 
affability. Those of the lower class partake somewhat of 
their habits and occupations, seemingly, yielding to the 
old adage, " that those who are born with silver spoons in 
their mouths may keep them." The French style of dress 
is most observed, with the exception of wearing the low 
crowned and broad brimmed hats and serapes among gentle- 
men, though sometimes they wear short cloaks ; and 
rebozos made of silk, and dark colored dresses among the 
ladies of the first class. The common laborers dress in 
cotton stuffs, made loose, and without regard to fashion, 
wearing broad brimmed straw hats, and rebozos made of 
cotton. Their dress is light and well adapted to a warm 
climate. 

El Rio de Santiago, or the River of Santiago, rises in 
the Western Slope of the Mexican Cordillera, and passes 
the city of Guadalajara six leagues distant, at a point called 
Puente Grande de Tololotlan, which means the large 
bridge of Tololotlan. Much of tlie intervening tract of 



250 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

country is broken into deep gulches ; and the river, as far 
as I could observe, seemed to pass through most unfathom- 
able gorges or barrancas of more than two thousand feet 
deep. One of these I visited, going down las harra7icas in 
a meandering manner fully two miles, and there I saw near 
the margin of the river, a low, narrow bench of land 
remarkably fertile, and well watered by springs, producing 
most of the known tropical fruits in perfection and 
abundance. 

Six miles from the city on the road to Tepic, and upon a 
slight elevation sloping in either direction, there is a small 
settlement, called el Pueblo Pequeiio de Zapopan, and 
ecclesiastically, our Lord of Zapopan; because of there 
being much devotion appropriated to it throughout this 
region of country ! The population is computed to be eight 
hundred, with many mixed breeds and Indians, and among 
whom abound many ecclesiastical devotees, of the Fran- 
ciscan order, who have here a convent, and also, a temple 
dedicated to the Virgin, with an image, upon which they 
bestow most devout veneration. Perhaps, to a stranger, 
'tis fancy that paints the scene of man's usurped rights, 
when he beholds him in prostration to these Saints, the 
Altar and the Holy Stand. The style of architecture 
observed with reference to the construction of these eccle- 
siastical establishments, is truly grand and imposing, 
tending to awaken and excite the mind to solemn contem- 
plation, and combining the chaste proportions of the modern 
Gothic order. 

Pueblitos signify siniiU settlements, or pueblos pequehoSy 
and are situated about six miles north-westwardly of the 
city of Guadalajara. Between this and tlio former, the 
country is undulating, and in many places, it is cut many 
feet deep by tropical rains, which pour and sweep over this 
region with great impetuosity. El Puenie Grande sobre 



OF THE MEXCIAN CORDILLERA. 251 

el rio de Afemejac, is near mid-way between these two 
places, a description of which I have already mentioned. 

The population of estos pueblos is near eight hundred, 
and much mixed. Here I noticed a church, convent and 
monastery, which seemed to have required much care and 
design in the architectural arrangements of their construc- 
tion, and in the compartments within the inclosure of the 
two latter edifices. These buildings are massive, imposing, 
and tending to excite and impress thought, perhaps, into 
the mysterious works of man, to lead the blind ; and in their 
mechanical touches, resemble much the modern Gothic 
order of architecture. All other buildings besides, are 
of a miserable construction, showing the concentration of 
wealth to exist in the holy hands of God's vicegerents, 
shrewd financiers and pious impostors upon justice, sense, 
reason and judgment ! Official Mediators ! 
Adios, 

Seiior, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



252 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XLIII. 



Intention to leave for Colima— Preparation therefor— Exchanges— Gloom of Night 
Traveling— Configuration of the Country —Scenery— La Villa de Zacoalco de Tor- 
res—Its Population— Description thereof— Say ula Mountains— Caidad de Saj^u- 
la -Payula Range— Pine Lumber— Bees -Fabrica de Papel— Flour Mills— Maize 
—Shepherd Dog -Desci-iption of Sayula— Ai'chitecture- City of Zapotlan— Pop- 
ulation— Las Plazas— La Fonda -Noted for a Siege, talcen and saclied by Gen. 
Comonfort, in July, 1855— Comonfort censured. 



Amigo Mio : — Contemplating while in the city of Gua- 
dalajara, a return to California, and knowing that the 
Nicaragua line of Steamers were in the habit of touching 
at the port of Manzanillo once a month, on their upward 
trips to San Francisco, I decided to return to the coast by 
the way of Sayula Zapotlan and Colima, so as to unfold to 
my mind, new interests and new scenery. From Guadala- 
jara to Zapotlan, there is a Troy coach plying every other 
day, except Sunday, as stage traveling upon this day, is gen- 
erally excepted on the western portions of the Mexican 
Cordillera. Making up my mind to leave on a certain day, 
I prepared myself for the occasion, by seeing that my fire- 
arms were in a good condition, and taking a draft on 
Colima, not daring to take with me more than enough to 
bear my current expenses. And this is the manner of 
precaution which I would recommend to all foreigners 
desiring to visit and travel in Mexico, with any degree of 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 253 

pleasure or safety. Commercial houses residing in the 
different cities of the Republic, most generally confer this 
accommodation and apparent security with a slight charge, 
as exchanges and commercial intercourse are mutually kept 
up throughout the whole country. 

Having got myself ready, I repaired to the stage office 
and secured a seat, paying fifteen dollars, the distance 
being one hundred and twenty miles in a south-westerly 
direction. The hour of one o'clock, A. M., was set for our 
departure, and with this in view I repaired to my room 
that I might nap till twelve o'clock, and then be rested and 
ready in time to meet the appointed hour and the coming 
events of a fresh day. The hour had arrived on our having 
taken chocolate and a luncheon, when we were all ready 
for departure. Most of the stage passengers were Mexican 
ladies, composed of a few members of distinct families, who 
engaged their seats to go to Sayula, distant from this city 
one hundred and five miles ; however, there was one Mex- 
ican gentleman who continued in the stage as far as 
Zapotlan. 

That hour was starlight, and the milky-way had scarcely 
appeared to emit her soft combination of a silvery flood in 
our focal range ; therefore, there was a deep gloom I felt 
in this departure, uncommon for me to experience in this 
country. I was aware of ladrones living in the city and 
watching the movements of all strangers, and in fact, of all 
travelers ; and that this stage road was notorious para 
ladrones ; moreover, I was aware that of late, travelers on 
this road had been made to feel the scourging rod of their 
marauding feats ; hence, arose my precaution and fear that 
all might not be right in this excursion. 

All being ready and comfortably seated, we departed 
through the dusky streets, pressing the steeds, six in number, 
to accelerate their speed ; there being more danger at first, 



254 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPIC 

than after we had departed far from the city. As far as 
the eye might extend at night, I saw a little at first, to 
obstruct the penetration of my vision, but shortly, descend- 
ing scuds, misty in form, which seemed to be hovering 
over the landscape, and imparting a chilly freshness, 
causing one to draw closer around himself the garments of 
hoary winter. Continuing our journey onward through 
this chilly temperature at so late an hour of the night, we 
passed over an undulating surface at first, apparently 
productive, though sparsely wooded ; and in the travel of 
some twenty miles, we struck a region much broken, still 
mounds, hills and mountains abounding on the right or left, 
in front or rear ; however, there seemed to be a pass open. 
Notwithstanding, at times, we came into small valleys, and 
skirted fertile plains where lived some species of the human 
family upon ranchos and haciendas, with their herds and 
flocks around them, cultivating beans, maize, plantains, 
bananas, and various vegetables common to the country. 

In the distance of every tenth mile, it was the design of 
the Zapotlan Stage Company to have stations, when first 
organized, in order to receive a relay of fresh mules, and 
then proceed with rapidity. From having passed over the 
road, I should imagine that the Company had effected these 
ends in regulating their relays, as near as practicable. 

Bending our course on, and passing all suspected danger 
without interruption ; nothing of moment reminded me that 
I was traveling through a region much difierent from what 
I had seen, till I arrived at la Villa de Zacoalco de Torres, 
distant about fifty-four miles from Guadalajara. Although 
the district of country we had passed, abounded in springs 
and streams, which seemed suificient for agricultural pur- 
poses, and also, in stones and rocks for fencing ; still, I 
noticed but a few squads of trees dispersed here and 
there, serving the husbandmen for fuel and stakes. The 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 255 

whole of this distance presented nearly the same geological 
features as I. have heretofore mentioned as to other parts, 
showing frequently, the different formations intermixed, 
still, lines of distinction between them. Near the road, I 
saw no extensive improvements, nor villages worthy of 
your consideration ; therefore, I will draw your attention 
to la Fonda de Zacoalco, situated on la plaza publica. 

When we arrived, the clock had struck ten, A. M., and 
as soon as practicable, we were prepared for breakfast. 
This consisted of beef-steak, broiled chickens, eggs, fried 
bananas, frijoles, carne con Chile Colorado with onions, 
bread, tortillas, chocolate, and milk to drink. The price of 
this was one-half dollar ; and by the day, one dollar and 
a-half, and by the week, from four to five dollars ; still, by 
becoming acquainted, one could live as cheap in Mexico as 
in any part of the United States. The figure of this region 
is quite picturesque ; the valley of Zacoalco being sur- 
rounded by high mountains, and the surface mostly level 
or gently undulating. The productions here from what I 
could see, though this being the dry season of the year, 
would assimilate themselves much to the classes priorly 
mentioned in these letters, as growing in the temperate 
regions, that is, tierras templadas de Mejico. 

The population de esta Villa is computed to be not far 
from four thousand. Of course, the population here is 
mixed as usual, presenting a variety of characters to deal 
with ; though, generally pliable, if cautiously approached. 
It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing each other at 
right angles, with a public sqbare or la plaza publica in the 
center, ornamented with a fountain, which rises from a 
stream watering the town, and also, with orange trees, and 
surrounded by buildings of a public and private character ; 
consisting of a church, the Alcalde's office. Hall of Audi- 
ence, la Fonda, private residences, and stores and shops 



256 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

where one could see exposed for sale, foreign fabrics and 
staffs, with home-made manufactures, and trinkets also, to 
please the Indian <. 

Receiving 'our j-ciay of mules six in number, we traveled 
on, meeting with no particular exhibitions of nature, nor of 
art, nor of improvements to excite our curiosity, except to 
casually note the passing scenes of hills, mounds, mountain 
ranges and peaks, with their rocky declivities, and here 
and there, with thin clusters of trees of various growths, 
though mostly oak ; till our arrival in the afternoon, and 
that at a late hour, at la ciudad de Sayula, one hundred 
and five miles from Guadalajara. Las ranclios and las 
haciendas seemed some distance apart ; still, they animated 
the mind, wherever one could behold springs and streams 
of water. It was in April, and the heat of the sun at mid- 
day was intense, increased by the concentration of his rays 
in small valleys ; and, in many places, I should think this 
effect produced by the salinish character of the country ; 
for within the distance mentioned, I observed many salt 
ponds near the road, where some salt is made ; however, 
not to any extent. 

The city of Sayula is situated in a singularly picturesque 
valley, not far from the base of the Sayula mountain range, 
which abounds in pines and cedars, presenting a beautiful 
and striking contrrst to the dry and parched valley far 
below. This range of mountains is well adapted to saw- 
mills, from the springs and streams which rise in it, and 
there are several which not only supply the adjacent coun- 
try with lumber, but the city of Guadalajara. It is also 
said to abound in wild bees, which, I was here informed, 
are quite common in high altitudes, that is, from three 
thousand to seven thousand feet above the sea, throughout 
the Republic. 

Upon a mountain stream call«d Sayula, which also su^)- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLEBA. 257 

plies the city with water for domestic use, and that of 
irrigation, is situated la Fahrica de Papelde Sai/uIa,owned 
by a Mexican company, and superintended by Americans. 
Its characteristics much resemble la Fahrica de Papel de 
Atemejac, near the city of Guadalajara ; except the water- 
wheel, which is made of wood. The rags for these factories 
are obtained mostly in Mexico ; though of late, the compa- 
nies have at each factory sent to foreign countries to get 
supplies of some qualities, which do not abound at home. 
The stock invested in these factories is said to pay well, at 
least, twenty per cent, each year, free from all disburse- 
ments. On this stream there is also a flouring mill, but 
the quality of the flour is indifferent, owing to the stones 
not being kept in order, and having a poor bolt. Through- 
out the country, I neither heard of, nor observed many 
horse-mills for grinding corn or wheat ; but the usual mode 
on ranchos and haciendas is to grind the grain between two 
stones, one large and hollowed out, and the other small, 
rounded, and easily handled. Before the grain is ground 
in this manner, it is common for it to be soaked awhile in 
lime-water, that it may become easily hulled, and fitted for 
use. This custom, in Mexico, is an instance of a heritage 
descended from the Aztecs ; and it will probably, ever 
exist, or at least, as long as so large a majority of the pop- 
ulation is characteristic of Indian blood. 

The valley of Sayiila presents the ever agreeable aspect 
of much fertility ; the mountains on either side extending 
out near the city, which gives it rather the form of an 
ellipsis, being narrower near the entrance and departure 
to and from it. Maize seems to be the staple production ; 
still a variety is produced here, as different altitudes are 
easily attained. It is dotted with ranchos and haciendas 
which, as if of the ancient patriarchs, have around them 
their flocks and herds. Through this region I noticed with 



258 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

satisfaction and admiration, tiie great utility of the shep- 
herd dog ; he seemed only to want language to express his 
conceptions or act the human part ; for he was as watchful 
of his flock, as the eagle of his prej. 

The city of Sayula is neatly laid out, having a beautiful 
public square, ornamented and surrounded in the same 
manner as that at Zacoalco. The streets cross each other 
at right angles, arid are paved in the same manner as usual 
in Mexican cities. The style of architecture observed 
here, as in other Mexican cities, with reference to private 
residences, borders more upon the Moorish order than any 
other which suggested itself to my mind, when observing 
them; although the church is mostly constructed with a 
view to imitate the modern Gothic. 

Leaving this city at a late hour in the afternoon, it was 
somewhat dark ere vf e had arrived at la ciudad de Zapotlan. 
The configuration of this intervening tract presented no 
new nor peculiar characteristics which I have not described 
as being common to altitudes of two, and even three 
thousand feet above the level of the sea, and to latitudes 
twenty, twenty-one and twenty-two degrees north. After 
passing a tedious and lonely road, and after darkness had 
shut in for more than an hour, we safely arrived at la 
Fonda de Zapotlan, fifteen miles from Sayula. The city 
of Zapotlan is computed to possess a population of near 
eighteen thousand, and from conversation with an intelli- 
gent native there, and from my own observation while in 
the city, I should set down eleven-twelfths of the whole as 
having sprung from the mixed races, showing in bold 
relief, the Shemite and Hamite blood, Avith a slight tinge of 
the Castilian. This city is situated in a valley remarkably 
fertile, and nnique for its mountain scenery, being not far 
from the volcano of Coliraa and that of Nieve, which here, 
present their lofty and proud peaks clearly to view. This 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 259 

city is laid out with much regard to regularity ; the streets 
mostly crossing each other at right angles as at Sayula ; 
these and the side-walks are paved in the same manner as 
in other Mexican cities already mentioned. However, the 
streets are far too narrow for a large commercial metropo- 
lis, susceptible of being approached by navigation. 

There are two public squares or dos plazas puhlicas, 
near the center of the city, and in the smaller one of which 
there is a reservoir for supplying los ciudadenos with 
water, and it is fed by a small stream turned from its reg- 
ular course, not far off. Both of these squares are orna- 
mented with orange trees set in rows twenty feet apart, 
along the promenades and alleys, which encircle and divide 
them into eight plots, converging to the center, which are 
tastefully arranged and ornamented with ♦^rees also. These 
walks are overlaid with small gravels procured near by, 
though with flag-stones in the center of each square. One 
contains an area of two and the other of five acres. Front- 
ing these, there are stores ; shops of various kinds ; a 
hotel, la Fonda de Zapotlan ; and coffee and chocolate 
retreats ; and on the north side of the large square, there 
stands a single edifice, where many are wont to go, and 
bend, at the return of each early morn, on their child-taught 
knees, in the seeming presence of the Holy Virgin and the 
Disciples. 

With reference to the construction of this church, I saw 
nothing which would distinguish it from others already 
mentioned ; however, it seemed appropriate and suitable to 
the wants of a quiet inland town. This church looked aged 
and indicated on its sides an undeniable evidence of a fear- 
ful convulsion having taken place, which may have been 
radiated from the volcano of Colima, so near, and from its 
height, apparently hovering over the consecrated spot. 

In the rear and northwest of the city, there stands a 



260 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

mound near five hundred feet high, now proud in shape, 
overlooking the valley of Zapotlan, and far up the rocky- 
sides of volcanic Colima. In July of last year, (1855) this 
became noted in the pages of Mexican history, as being the 
stronghold where General Gomonfort planted his artillery 
to cannonade and storm the town, in case of not an imme- 
diate surrender of the Santa Anna party. This party hav- 
ing fortified themselves in trenches and behind redoubts, as 
though out of danger, and also, behind stone buildings, could 
not be persuaded to believe that the new recruits of Indians 
under Gomonfort, would be able to level their pieces so as 
to touch them ; therefoi e, they were determined not to 
relinquish their position till forced at the points of bayonets. 
A few rounds of canister and ball, soon convinced them to 
the contrary ; and the city force being small, were quickly 
overcome by the enemy, numbering several thousands, 
which had been gathered unto him, like a snow ball set in 
motion, down a moderately steep declivity. On account of 
the determined resistance of this city to the forces of Gen. 
Gomonfort, it was, when taken, given up to be sacked for 
two hours by his soldiers, without any restraint, which he 
promised them, at the commencement of the siege, in case 
of much delay to surrender, that he might thereby infuse 
them with ready and quick action, and with determined 
zeal for his cause ; although this determination on his part, 
he had communicated to the citizens, prior to their being 
overcome and forced to fly to their court-yard gates, which 
are a mere shell in form of a barrier against canister and 
musket balls. In this engagement, many lives were lost on 
both sides, but more on the defensive than the offensive ; 
and many of the stores and private residences were pierced 
by balls, dismantled, and sacked of all their valuables. For 
this act of cruelty and warfare towards the citizens of Za- 
potlan, Gen. Gomonfort has been much censured in his own 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 261 

country, and perhaps, it may carry with it the external 
aspect of an unnecessary infliction ; but before the pen, for 
this act, has shrouded his name in black, and deigns to 
transmit it to after ages, it may be well to enquire : " what 
were his forces ? how were they related to him, except by 
sanguinary exploits and heroic deeds, and large expecta- 
tions ? how had he created them ? how could he move them 
and retain them in his interest and reformation ? and finally, 
who were his opponents ? how had they treated reforms 
for the public good since coming into power ? and what had 
they apparently done to promote public peace and pros- 
perity in the country for more than twenty years past !" 
After this, Gren. Comonfort, in the rapid strides of his march, 
met with little or no opposition in the western portion of 
the Mexican Republic. Colima, and Guadalajara, as with 
other strongholds, fell into his hands, as if by natural im- 
pulse. 

Adios, 

Seiior, 
Agricola. 

Cjncinnatus. 



262 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XLIV. 



Productions of the Valley of Zapotlan— Volcano de Colhna— Departure for Colima 
on Muleback— Trail -Post Master of Colima traveled with— Country Aspect- 
Bright Morning— Plateau at the southeast Base of Mount Colima - Conception 
of it— Productions— Volcanic Matter Breakfast— La Garita de el Gobiemo— El 
Plan de La Barranca sobre el Camino de Colima Its Characteristics— Hacienda 
de el Plan de La Bari-anca, a Sugar Estate— Description of, and Machinery — 
Dinner— Sleep— Starlight— Departure -Tonila - Description of— Many Sugar Es- 
tates—Hacienda de Loma Alia— Quality of the Eice— Country adapted to Agri- 
culture—Country Configuration. 



Amigo Mio : — The productions of the valley of Zapotlan 
are similar to those of Sayula ; though I am under the im- 
pression that more sugar-cane is cultivated here ; still the 
advantages for irrigation, I should suppose, to be nearly the 
same. The manners, habits, aud customs of the citizens 
and the country people, and their dress, living, and style of 
architecture, reminded me of what I had already seen. The 
distance from this city to that of Colima, in a direct line is 
near forty miles ; but the volcano of Cohma, with its numer- 
ous ridges and gulches occupies such a position as to make 
it a circuit of eighty miles. This volcano will engage my 
pen for a while when I shall have arrived at Colima, and 
shall be considering the picturesque scenery of that valley. 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 263 

Having traveled to the end of the stage road in this direc- 
tioR, there being not a sufficient travel or energy to con- 
tinue it on to Colima, I found it necessary to engage a 
servant with three mules to take my baggage, and accom- 
pany me to the city of Colima. 

Being all ready on a beautiful morning in April, my 
baggage having been packed on one mule, and my servant 
on another, I surmounted the third, and bidding adieu to 
the city of Zapotlan at three o'clock, A. M., we departed, 
skirting the base of the volcano somewhat in the form of a 
half circle. Before I had traveled many miles, I fell in 
with a Mexican gentleman, his son, and servants, all well 
mounted and armed, and also, bound for Colima, whom I 
accompanied thus far, and whom I found, after my arrival, 
to be the postmaster of that place. He appeared, as I be- 
came casually acquainted with him, to possess in an emi- 
nent degree those bland and courteous characteristics, which 
single out well-bred Mexicans, I understood him to be a 
native of Guadalajara, but that he had hved many years in 
Colima, called tierra caliente, by the natives. He possessed 
a fund of information and was liberal in its distribution, 
when interrogated, and seemed desirous of knowing much 
of the peculiarities, productions, and settlements of Califor- 
nia, and the United States generally. 

We traveled on till ten o'clock, when we arrived at a 
mountain rancho in a deep glen or apparent gorge ; here we 
alighted and put up for three hours and took breakfast. 
The base of the volcano was on our right, and appeared 
broken into many ridges and deep ravines, however, in 
places, fringed with a scrubby growth of various kinds of 
oaks ; while bench and valley lands, still of a small level 
surface, stretched along under our feet, and extended far to 
the left. The mountain ranges through tliis region, had the 
aspect of newer formations than any I had as yet witnessed ; 



264 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

scoria abounding, and lava broken into fragments, commen- 
surate with any notions of geometrical measurements. 
Never did I behold a country before, presenting so gener- 
ally the inarhs and signs of having been once volcanic ; for 
thousands of seeming, yet small craters, attracted our atten- 
tion, hollowed out to our view, as if by intense heat and the 
action of gaseous substances far embosomed. 

This morning being bright, my spirits elastic, and riding 
along leisurely, I gave myself up to the contemplation of 
the volcanic chain of mountains, beginning in latitude forty- 
six degrees south, in South America, and traveling some- 
what ridged in form, till its arrival in latitude eighteen de- 
grees north, in North America, where I discovered it, in 
tracing its characteristics, prolonged in a great plateau, 
until it reaches the twenty-second degree. There is no 
doubt in my mind from the view which I was able to make 
of this present consideration, but that the plateau, in part, 
owes its existing form to the circumstance of an ancient 
system of valleys, in a chain of primitive mountains, having 
been filled up, to the depth of many thousand feet, with 
various volcanic products ; as earth and alkalies mixed, 
and ejected in intense ignition. 

The agricultural productions of this region of country, 
wherever susceptible of improvements and cultivation, 
possess the same characteristics as about ZajDotlan and 
Sayula ; maize, beans or frijoles, and sugar-cane, prevailing. 
Moreover, some portions of it abounded with flocks and 
herds, ix>amingon the hills and mountain sides. The cool- 
ing springs and streams we occasionally passed, lent a charm 
to the seeming solitude and grandeur of hoary ages, now 
and then rising to checker our vision. 

Here, as in Chile, volcanic matter must have, from exter- 
nal indications, burst through the primitive formation of 
rocks, and spread its liquid combinations over fields abound- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 265 

ing in luxurious verdure, leaving many a projection and 
peak, yet to be seen. 

Having breakfasted on bread, chocolate, eggs, chickens, 
frijoles, tortillas, and care con chile Colorado, and couched 
awhile to rest our wearied limbs, we had our mules 
re-packed and re-saddled, and on we went, taking a birds- 
eye view of the small valley we were then in, which and 
the tract we had to pass through till our arrival at el plan 
de Barranca, twenty miles distant, assimilated very much 
with what we had observed twenty miles in the i:ear of us. 
Upon a sm-all ridge of table land, after having traveled 
along near ten miles, we arrived at la Garita of the Gov- 
ernment, where w^e found it necessary to pay two reales, 
which I understood were to be used in repairing and 
improving the trail. This contribution laid upon the trav- 
eling and packing community, though small, is a common 
usage in Mexico, between large commercial cities and the 
ports ; and in the course of a year, at esta Garita, it must 
amount to several thousands of dollars, and I should judge 
for myself, that but little of it went to improve the trail. 
Este Plan de Barranca is the outer edge of a deep glen or 
Canada about two thousand feet descending ; both down and 
up it, there is a trail, for one or two miles, paved with cob- 
ble stones, and protected by a w^all three feet high, laid in 
cement. This labor, I was informed, had been performed by 
the Spaniards while in possession of the country. So well 
constructed and adapted with sewers and side passages to 
turn the tropical rains oif, that it stands the lapse of time 
w^ithout showing many evident marks of abrading or dete- 
rioration. On rising this gulch, it was sunset, and in one 
fourth of a mile, we reached an extensive sugar estate, 
where we all rode into a spacious court-yard, alighted from 
our mules, and put up till three o'clock the next morning. 
Esta Hacienda de el Plan de Barranca, is situated on a 



266 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

declivity, somewhat resembling a broad spur of the vol- 
cano ; although I discovered it to be considerably broken, 
yet remarkably productive, maturing sugar cane so as to 
cut from eight to ten feet long in one year, and averaging 
nearly two inches in diameter, and possessed of a saccharine 
matter, resembling the consistency of honey-dew. It is on, 
and to the right of the trail mostly, as we were traveling 
to Colima. The proprietor lives in the city of Durango, 
and visits this place perhaps once a year ; however, he has 
a superintendent to take charge of all his affairs and appur- 
tenances belonging to the estate. 

The residence is on the Colima and Guadalajara trail, 
and consists of a building made of adobes and plastered 
with a cement on both sides ; being one story high, one 
hundred feet long by eighty wide, having in the center, 
a spacious court-yard, and within, a portico all around ; and 
on the outside, a portico in front of the house. The walls 
had the appearance of being three feet thick, and the roof 
of being terraced and covered with cement. This build- 
ing is adapted to a family residence, the use of servants, 
the public travel, the storing of grain and produce gener- 
ally, work-shops, and in the northeast corner of it, fronting 
the trail, there is a small store for the accommodation of 
the operatives on the hacienda, numbering not far from six 
hundred. The sugar-house I did not see, as it is situated 
one mile from the residence. 

Several years since, the proprietor sent to the United 
States and imported a complete apparatus for making sugar 
on the improved system, as practiced in Louisiana ; but I 
was most lamentably informed here, that owing to there 
being no foundry or machinists in this region of country, 
understanding it, nor the keeping of it in repair, nor those 
principles which should govern its application, he had 
been, after repeated efforts, and sinking near one hundred 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 267 

thousand dollars in various losses, forced to abandon it and 
have resource to the old system, perhaps in use by the Chi- 
nese three thousand years ago or at the present, or among the 
Arabians at the close of the thirteenth century, when the 
sugar cane was first introduced into Arabia from China. 
This old system is in general use throughout the Republic ; 
and perhaps forty, yea, thirty years since, it may have been 
known among the Creoles of Louisiana ; and even it may 
be practiced among some of them up to the present time. 

The hour of our departure came, as we had been awak- 
ened by the noise of our servants in getting ready ; and 
footing our bills, being a dollar each for dinner and lodg- 
ing, we soon bade adieu to the fair environs of el plan de 
Barranca, and many a mile we rode along, ere twilight had 
won her course in the east. 

The distance from el pla?i de Barranca to the city of 
Colima, is considered forty miles, and the most of this tract 
of country seemed to flatten and widen out, presenting 
muchos ranchos y haciendas to either the right or the left, 
abounding with streams and springs of water farther up 
the mountain ; with horses, mules, cattle, sheep and hogs ; 
with sugar-cane, maize, and rice fields ; and also, with 
groves of orange trees, plantains and bananas, and the dif- 
ferent species of custard apple. These seemed to be the 
characteristics of the country, till our arrival at Colima ; 
although I do not wish to convey the impression that these 
even sparse settlements indicated anything like what the 
country might be compared to, were its constitutional laws 
and political regulations, such as to guarantee firmness and 
safety in the investment of capital. At six o'clock, we 
alighted by the trail side near a sugar-house, and called at 
the residence of the proprietor, where we were regaled 
thus early with a cup of chocolate and tortillas. Esta 
Hacienda is well watered and appeared to have a popula- 



268 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

tion of three hundred, living near im Pueblo pequeho^ 
called Tonila. 

Traveling along, as we had before day-light, we discov- 
ered it to be the practice on the sugar estates, to work all 
night ; and sometimes on Sundays, I was informed that 
they labored. 

Tonila is situated near the base of the Volcano of 
Colima, commanding on either side a beautiful and highly 
fertile country, and about twenty-five miles northeast of 
the city of Colima. The surface of the country adjacent 
to this village ; as well as the region around, is much bro- 
ken, and in many places would seem to impress one with 
the conviction, that not centuries had elapsed since erup- 
tions have taken place, and desolated many a happy spot ; 
for volcanic rocks frequent the sight of the traveler on 
either side, in a half decomposed state. 

The population, I should imagine, would not exceed two 
thousand, and from a glance at their features and counte- 
nances, appeared mixed as at other places which had fallen 
under my notice. While here, I noticed only a few good 
buildings, and a few stores or las tiendas ; however, one 
church and una fonda drew from me a moment's attention, 
and left but an ordinary impression. Through este pueblo 
there ripples a crystal stream, serving the purpose of irri- 
gation in the dry season, and exciting the yards, gardens 
and fields to smile, decked with a lovely green freshness, 
which charms the eye and pleases the senses. 

Sugar-cane would seem to form the staple in this district 
of country, attaining a high degree of perfection, and yield- 
ing about three thousand pounds per acre annually ; tiot- 
withstanding, cotton, rice, maize, and the rearing of stock, 
enter into the productions and pursuits, yet to a limited 
extent. Tropical fruits abound as elsewhere, with many 
of the same varieties, and arrive at perfection, maturing 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 26^ 

into a rich mellowness, which warrants to the consumer a 
pleasure in the participation ; though nurtured by a care- 
less hand and an empty heart. 

In this portion of the country, and in traveling along, we 
saw many sugar estates of a similar character to the one 
mentioned ; but the population as I have frequently men- 
tioned, is fully nine-tenths colored or mixed with Indian 
blood. At some of the sugar estates, the proprietors have 
it so arranged as to do the rolling and boiling within the 
buildings and under sheds. Most of the syrup, when ready 
to granulate, is turned into earthen jars with small holes 
perforated through the bottom, so as to admit of drainage. 
The sugars made in this region would bear no relative 
comparison to those of Louisiana, as the Mazatlan sugars 
would not, which I have alluded to already. The Homan 
plow, good among these people to supplant the improve- 
ments of the present age, still seemed to be in use ; and in 
fact, most of the implements which would have naturally 
suggested themselves to man's necessities in tne most prim- 
itive ages of human progression. 

We dismounted about eleven o'clock, at la Hacienda de 
Loma Alia, the heat being intense. Here we had breakfast, 
which consisted of chickens, boiled eggs, tortillas, carne 
con Chile Colorado, and chocolate. 

The quality of the rice grown at this estate, would favor- 
ably compare with the best quality of the South Carolina 
rice. The manner of separating the grain or kernel from 
the hull, observed here, and throughout the country, is, 
after having procured a block of a tree two feet in diameter 
and three feet long, and hollowed it out two feet deep by 
eighteen inches wide, to fill it half full of shelled rice and 
then pound it with a wooden pes lie till the hull easily sepa- 
rates from the kernel ; and after this, the chaiFis winnowed 
out by exposing it to a draft of wind, which cleans it, 



270 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

making it look beautifully. The rice grown in this region 
of country resembles the aquatic kind, which is cultivated 
by overflowing the land several times, after it is planted in 
rows. In cleaning it, great care is generally taken not to 
break the kernels, I should judge from its appearance in 
market. 

The residence here with its capacities, resembles that de 
el plan de Barranca, where we had put up for the past 
night. This whole district of country bore the outward 
aspect of being well watered and admirably adapted to 
agriculture and grazing. The configuration of the country 
for the past forty miles, bore less evidences of being 
broken ; still showing, however, different formations, inci- 
dent to volcanic regions. The population at this estate, I 
understood, averaged nearly three hundred, and mixed as 
usual. 

The hour for our departure having come, we remounted 
our mules and traveled forward at our leisure, and near 
five o'clock, P. M., we safely arrived in the city of Colima ; 
where I put up for a few days at la Fonda de Frances de 
Colima ; the proprietor being a Frenchman and a gentle- 
man tamhien, having some regard for himself and guests. 
In my next, I shall take a survey of the valley of Colima, 
and of what I hope to be of interest to you. Coli»a is 
nearly south of the city of Guadalajara. 
Adios, 

Sen or, 

Agrioola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 271 



LETTER XLV. 

Arrival at Collma— Fonda de Frances— Description of— Dinner— View of the City- 
Ride with Gov. Alvarez, of the Territory of Colima, to Visit an American, three 
milesdistant-SenorBamey—Eetum— Visit to La Huerta de Gov. Alvarez at 
this time— Its Extent— Golden Fruit— Valley of Colima— Kio de Colima— Volca- 
no of Colima— Description of— Its Crater— Extinct Crater— Indians about it- 
Indian Alcalde— Productions about this Volcano— City of Colima— Description 
of German Houses— Plaza— City Market— Churches— Stores— Architecture- 
German Merchants— Puento Grande— Population of the City— Fabricas de Al- 
godon de CayetaSo y de Harmonia— Jesuit Buildings. 

Amigo Mio : — Having safely arrived and securely 
lodged myself within la Fonda de Frances, I was soon 
shown an apartment, being in the lower story and adapted 
to my comfort and convenience. The proprietor was atten- 
tive to my wants, having about himself servants enough to 
execute instant orders. Undergoing an ablution and a 
change of apparel, I contented myself to remain at the 
Hotel till morning, before going out to make observations, 
or to treat my reason with fresh aspects. The hotel is a 
one story building, constructed of soft-burnt bricks, and 
plastered on both sides with cement ; having heavy doors 
and sash with glass for windows, yet gratings on the out- 
side, and an ample court-yard ornamented with orange 
trees set in rows around it, and also in the center. The 



272 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

walls are three feet thick, and the roof is terraced in the 
usual Mexican manner. The dining bell ringing through 
my ears, I seated myself at table quite alone this evening 
as to persons, but not as to good dishes, in the court-yard 
portico. This extends all around the house on the inside. 
This table was, while I remained at the hotel, as well sup- 
plied with the substantials and luxuries of life, as that at 
la Fonda de Oro, in Tepic. My dinner being over, I soon 
retired to rest, and discovered this night, and afterwards, 
the nights generally through the whole year, to be as warm 
here as in Louisiana during the summer season. In the 
morning I arose early and felt refreshed, for I slept with 
the window open, the grating serving as 2i full 'protection. 

After breakfast, I walked out into the streets, taking 
with me a letter of introduction to Seilor Alvarez, Gover- 
nor and Commandante of the Territory of Colima, and 
Alcalde of the city. He received me cordially, and ob- 
served that in the evening, he would accompany me in his 
carriage to the residence of SeSor Barney, an American, 
from the State of Massachusetts, three miles north of the 
city, and near la Fahrica de Alyodon de Cageta7iO. During 
the day I sauntered about without an effort to note the 
passing or present scene ; however, evening soon came, 
when the tide of heat had passed away, and I was ready 
to accept of the kind oiFer of the General. 

Being seated in a Philadelphia coach, costing here two 
thousand dollars, with a span of mules beautifully capari- 
soned, costing one thousand more, the coachman, an adept 
in his business, drew up the reins and let them roll and 
prance through the streets, over the cobble stone pavement 
for some distance before we had come into the outskirts of 
the city. The road is nearly level and free from impedi- 
ments ; our course being up the river de Colima, and on 
our left was the river bottom divided into small plots or 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 273 

kuertas, abounding in all tropical luxuriance, and fascina- 
ting to the eye with its golden hues peering through many 
a verdant and glossy leaf ; while on our right lay the table 
land, being a few feet higher and extending off many a 
mile, rich and productive, abounding in maize generally. 
Having arrived, we descended from the coach and 
entered the gate leading into the residence of Albert G. 
Barney, Esq, 

After my introduction and short interview with him, 
making a promise to return the next day, we departed, the 
steeds bounding into their trappings, high with mettle, and 
returning by the way of the city, and passing over elpuerte 
grande de Colima, which will shortly require my pen for a 
moment, we called at his garden or huerta de suyo, embra- 
cing an area of twenty acres, where I beheld the produc- 
tions peculiar to this climate, growing in the greatest 
exuberance. In the center he has a spacious reservoir 
and bath house, from which he could irrigate his garden at 
his will. 

The fruits and productions growing in this region, will 
require each a special notice in the turn I have contem- 
plated to adjust theni. The valley of Colima possesses a 
larger scope of productive land, and that too, adapted to 
the growths of hot climates, than any portion of the Repub- 
lic, which I have noticed thus far in the extent of my 
Mexican travels. Apparently it is situated in a basin or 
concave surface, surrounded with mountain ridges, except 
on the south-east and north-west, and extending to the base 
of the volcano. It is computed to embrace the superficial 
area of one hundred square* leagues of arable land, or near 
five hundred thousand acres, which could be made to grow 
produce enough in bananas to sustain double the present 
population of the whole Mexican Republic, were it culti- 
vated to the extent of its capacity ; for I have been 



274 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

informed by gentlemeu of practicable judgment to discern 
and decide, that one acre of bananas thus cultivated will 
afford ample sustenance for thirty persons one year, allow- 
ing each to consume two hundred pounds. 

The valley generally carries with it a level, yet in some 
places, an undulating surface, and is quite abundantly wa- 
tered by el rio de Colima, which rises in the volcano and flows 
southwardly. This serves to run la Fabricas de Alo^odon, one 
league north of the city, at a small village called San Cay- 
etano, and also, the purpose of general irrigation. It is 
not large, except in the rainy season, though it seldom or 
never dries up. The volcano of Colima, is situated twen- 
ty-live miles northeastwardly of the city, and bears in its 
active peculiarities that grandeur and sublimity which one 
conceives of the terrestrial vents, communicating with the 
central fires of the earth. 

While here, I did not notice its discharging torrents of 
flame and sulphur, — nor torrents of melted matter ; but 
now and then, as I arose early in the morning, I observed 
clouds of smoke and apparent ashes enveloping its cone in 
a shroud, and extending downward. Its altitude is compu- 
ted to be not far from twelve thousand feet above the level 
of the sea, and consequently, it embraces the characteris- 
tics in point of climate, of the three zones ; first the torrid, 
secondly the temperate, and thirdly the frigid. Tlie growths 
at its base, and so on to its summit, bears evident illustra- 
trations of this position. 

The crater of the volcano of Colima is near five hun- 
dred feet in diameter, with an orifice perpendicular ; and 
about one league north of this,»there is an extinct crater of 
an old volcano, the summit of which is frequently capped 
with snow, being twelve thousand seven hundred and thir- 
teen feet above the ocean, and serves as a landmark near 
the port of Manzanillo, to guide the mariner. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 275 

When torrents of lava had rolled down this ancient vol- 
cano years ago, many eruptions seemed to have taken place ; 
for on riding along by its base and casting my eye upon its 
side, I saw many fragments of lava, otherwise unaccounted 
for, of singular shapes and dimensions, seemingly broken 
up by an under current of this melted matter. About the 
base there are many settlements, and even up the sides, 
mixed as usual; although I was informed that there lived 
many tribes of Indians, possessing their peculiar and prim- 
itive traits of character, acknowledging a superior in the 
government, and themselves to be merely within the Chris- 
tian pale ; though secretly clinging to many of their an- 
cient usages and customs with respect to religious concern- 
ments, most especially. 

Many portions of the side of this mountain are vastly 
fertile, abounding in springs and streams, and yielding man 
just such a paradise to live in, as he might choose to throw 
around himself. These Indian settlements have Alcaldes 
appointed by the Governor of the Territory, and one of 
whom I saw at Senor Barney's on some private business, 
while I sojourned under his hospitable roof. He appeared 
like a man of consequence among his tribe, and bore in 
his facial contour the semblance of the Aztec race. His 
step was firm, yet clastic — -his gait erect, yet not stiff ; his 
voice clear, yet not arrogant ; his eye penetrating, yet not 
unbedewable; his countenance sedate, yet not sad nor 
gloomy ; and his gesticulations free and easy, and graceful. 
This is a son of the forest, around whose ancient home the 
brilliant bands of civilization, have shed their light for 
more than three hundred years ! 

The chief productions among these Indian settlements, 
are maize, rice, bananas, plantains and honey, with an 
abundance of stock of all kinds. The grass extends up 
the side of this mountain more than six thousand feet, grow- 



276 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

iog luxuriantly through the year, and as. high as a man's 
head on horseback. It also abounds in trees of various 
kinds ; the size depending on the altitude. Its arable por- 
tions on its sides, are said to be remarkable to promote 
health and long life ; for many of the Indians live to the 
good old age of more than one hundred years, and then 
they even seem active and healthy. 

An American could easily frame in his own mind, from 
this slight description of the volcano, what might be made 
of its arable portions were it settled and cultivated as 
many parts of the United States. 

The city of Colima appears noted, in a historical view, 
from having been founded by the " Great Captain," or the 
conqueror of Mexico, — Cortes himself, after his return 
from Spain, between the years 1522 and 1524. Zacatula, 
at the mouth of the Balsas river, on the coast in the State 
of Michoacan, was founded at the same time with Colima. 
The city of Colima is situated on the plain of Colima, in 
latitude north eighteen degrees, forty-five seconds, and lon- 
gitude west from Greenwich one hundred and three degrees, 
twenty seconds, and eighty miles from the port of Manza- 
nillo by the way of the trail ; the lake of Cuyutlan making 
it half of a circle more than the distance otherwise would 
be. It is the metropolis of this territory, and the depot for 
merchandise in transitu to the vast interior. In this city 
there are four wholesale German houses, and one native 
wholesale and retail store, owned by the Governor, Alva- 
rez. Each of these houses, I was informed, receives at 
least the importation of one cargo of foreign merchan- 
dise and liquors, in the course of a year, amounting to 
eight hundred tons burden. This city is laid out regularly, 
the streets crossing each other at right angles ; however, 
they are narrow, and so are the sidewalks. The streets 
and sidewalks are paved in the same manner as other Mexi- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 277 

can cities having already fallen under my observations) and 
la Plaza publica, being near the centre, is ornamented in 
like manner. The public market of provisions and vegeta- 
bles, is held on this square, embracing all the varieties I 
mentioned in that at Guadalajara, and a still greater vari- 
ety of tropical productions, and fruits of a richer flavor and 
far more fragrant perfume. These I shall call your atten- 
tion to again. 

The Church fronts the Public Square on the northeast, 
is a new building, large, and well adapted to the wants of 
the citizens, Foreigners and the first class of Mexicans, 
attend church here as elsewhere I have mentioned in these 
letters. Fronting la Plaza puhlica on each side, there is a 
row of retail stores and shops, vending foreign merchan- 
dise, the home manufactures, and the agricultural produc- 
tions of the country. The city abounds with mechanics 
peculiar to the wants and demands of the country in its 
present state. Hats, shoes, boots, clothing, and earthen- 
ware are extensively manufactured at this place for home 
use ; but the fine cloth is imported. 

In this city, one apothecary store fell within my notice, 
and three at Guadalajara; neither of which would compare 
with a second class drug store in San Francisco. No for- 
eigner is allowed to sell drugs in the Republic, till he has 
been most rigidly examined before a board of physicians 
in the City of Mexico, which fact I presume must, without 
question, give rise to so few foreigners being engaged in 
that commercial line ; nevertheless, in this country there is 
a strong prejudice exercised against foreign physicians. In 
comparison with other countries, I met with few profes- 
sional gentlemen, except the clergymen, whom I found ever 
ready to meet me half way, to all appearance, affable, bland, 
courteous and far from endeavoring to mention their creeds 
when in social conversation. 



278 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

The style of architecture observed with reference to the 
church, the residences and stores, would rather impress one 
with an effort to imitate the modern Gothic, and also, the 
Moorish order ; and the court-yards of the latter, being or- 
namented with fountains, and trees of tropical growth, would 
seem to assimilate themselves to what I have so often no- 
ticed in Mexican cities. 

The wholesale houses are situated promiscuously in dif- 
ferent parts of the city. Most of the German merchants 
here, as at Guadalajara, Tepic and Mazatlan, appeared 
courteous, affable, and communicative generally, so far as 
in their power ; however, I should infer from incidental 
intimations, that were American capitalists to come into 
Mexico and engage in commercial pursuits, there might be 
excited and engendered much jealousy and consequent ill- 
feeling. Though among them there would be some noble 
exceptions to this spirit, desirous to monopolise the trade 
of the country. 

JSlpuente grande sohre el rio de Colima, en esta Ciudad^ 
that is, the great bridge over the Colima river in this city, 
is wholly constructed of rocks and stones of a small size, 
on arcades ; the columns of the arches being eight feet 
apart, and the bridge eighty feet long. Each side is raised 
three feet higher than the surface of the bridge, yet sloping 
down from the center to each terminus ; and against the 
walls inside is a continuous seat, made of stones and cov- 
ered with bricks and cement, where, of a star-light night, 
the citizens love to wander and saunter away a few mo- 
ments in the cool breeze, created by the mountain river. 

The style of dress, both for ladies and gentlemen, 
and also the lower classes, resembles that at Guadalajara ; 
although their apparels are made of a lighter material, I 
discovered, as the climate is much warmer. 

The population is computed to be not far from thirty- 



OP THE MEXICAN COEDILLERA. 279 

thousand, consisting of equally as many shades of color, if 
not more, than I had before noticed in my travels among the 
same number of Mexicans ; the mixed and Indians would, 
from close observation, indicate a great preponderance, 
even nineteen-twentieths of this class. The whole foreign 
population, aside from Spaniards, would not, I should judge, 
exceed two hundred souls either in Colima, Guadalajara, 
Tepic, or Matzatlan, as residents of each of these cities 
severally. 

La Fabrica de Algodoii da Cayetano is situated about 
one league from the city, in a northerly direction, and em- 
braces a beautiful plot of ground for this object. It is on 
the east bank of el rio de Colima, and its wheel is propelled 
by the momentum of water, led through aft aqueduct of more 
than a mile in length, and much of it laid with stones in 
mortar. Esta Fabrica is one hundred feet long by fifty 
feet wide, of two stories high, constructed of soft-burnt bricks, 
with a terraced roof, and plastered on both sides. The 
court-yard and out-buildings are spacious and well adapted 
in their design to promote the best interest of the factory ; 
the former is ornamented with a fountain and orange trees. 
This factory runs sixty looms with all the appurtenances 
requisite for manufacturing, and employs about one hundred 
and fifty operatives in all, when in full operation. It is 
considerad in Mexico, that two natives will perform in a 
cotton factory, what is usually required of one American 
operative, in the State of Massachusetts. Their daily wages 
will average three reales, ranging from one real to five 
reales. These operatives live in the out-houses just alluded 
to, and seem to be happy in their avocations. The cost of 
the factory, when the construction of it took place under 
the superintendence of Senor Barney, in the year 1841, 
amounted to one hundred thousand dollars, divided into one 
hundred shares ; and it is said to yield an annual profit, 



280 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERX SLOPE 

deducting all disbursements, of twenty thousand dollars. 
Sefior Barney owns one-rtt'lh of the whole of this factory, 
as I was informed, and one -fourth in a cotton and spinning 
factory by the name of Harmonia, situated on the opposite 
side of the river, and nearer to the city. Much of this 
cotton thread is sold to the natives in the city of Colima, 
for the purpose of manufacturing rebozos and various other 
articles of home consumption. It is said to pay a higher 
per cent, than to weave it into domestics. The cost of this 
factory is computed at forty thousand dollars, and it is con- 
structed in a similar manner to the one already mentioned, 
and is propelled by a water wheel ; though the whole is on 
a much smaller scale, employing thereby fewer operatives. 
This factory is said to yield a net annual profit of twenty- 
five per cent, on its original investment. The price of raw 
cotton ranges from five to ten cents a pound ; but it is not 
generally cleaned so as to be adapted for use, till it is run 
through the cotton gins attached to the factories. 

Near la fabrica de Algodon de Harmonia, I observed, 
one day in riding past, an old Jesuitical establishment dilapi- 
dated, and mouldering in the ruins of its ancient greatness. 
It was here after the conquest of Anahuac, as well as over 
other fertile portions of the country, that the Jesuits en- 
deavored by kindness, adaptation, and insinuation, to ingra- 
tiate themselves with the natives and make them tools to 
their own luxury and magnificence, rather tlian meek disci- 
ples of Jesus as their order would very naturally lead the 
supposition. Had they not been held in check by other 
powers, and expelled from religious association by the famous 
Bull published in 1773, in such a manner as to have neu- 
tralized their power, — the ambition, arrogance, and con- 
sumption of Ignatius Loyola and James Lainer, would have 
overshadowed such characteristics in Alexander the Great, 
burying the name of him in the tomb of oblivion, and left 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 281 

no foot-hold for Napoleon Bonaparte, to have predicated a 
faint hope upon. 

Adios, 

Seiior, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



282 TRAVELS ON THE "WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XLVI. 

Exuberancy of the A^alley of Colima— Its Cultivation— Productions— C otton— 
Eice— Sugar— Coffee— Cacao Trees, and Their Nuts— Banana and Plantain 
Trees— Description of— Pine Apples— Description of— Different Species of Anno- 
nas— Palm Family— Description of the most Useful— Their Uses and Value- 
Tamarind Tree— Bamboo Cane— Jatropha Manihot, and its Uses. 

Amigo Mio : — Owing to the peculiarity and location of 
the valley of Colima, tropical nature has seemed from the 
multiplicity and exuberance of her valuable productions, 
to have unbosomed herself and received the seeds of im- 
pregnation ; and feeling a genial, yet a stronger heat from 
volcanic fires, she ceases not to vegetate the seasons round, 
except when the proud Colima abandons its wonted banks, 
and flows not its liquid column over the fertile plain, at the 
foot of old Colima's smoking fumes. 

Cotton is a plant which has been cultivated time imme- 
morial in Mexico ; the culture and manufacture of it being 
well understood by the Toltics and Aztecs. Its uses and 
application as furnishing articles of clothing have been 
handed down, with the wants of different ages, to the pres- 
ent day in its general culture among the Indians and the 
descendants of the conquerors. In the valley of Colima, and 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 283 

in regions adjacent, it is much cultivated, though in small 
patches, yet not with care and due attention. The staple of 
the nankeen and green seed cotton possess near the same 
qualities as these kinds do, growing in other countries, but 
the black seed cotton is reputed to possess a much finer and 
longer staple than that grown near the sea, and on the isles 
near the sea shore in the United States. 

Rice and sugar receive much attention in this valley ; 
but their cultivation is not pursued except where the advan- 
tages with respect to irrigation may be easily attained. 
The amount of these several staple productions to the acre, 
is large, far surpassing that commonly gathered in the 
United States off of the same area ; however neglectful the 
cultivation may be practiced in this generous climate. The 
kind of rice grown here is aquatic, white, and remarkably 
heavy. It is generally planted in drills or rows, yet some- 
times sown promiscuously. The manner of planting the 
sugar-cane in this country, is nearly the same as in Louisi- 
ana, except its being planted much closer together; how- 
ever, it is cultivated and kept clean chiefly by hoeing. Its 
culture by means of the plow and cultivator is unknown to 
the Mexicans. English hoes, or those similar, are gener- 
ally used, which resemble the southern hoes, adapted to 
slave labor. The sugar-cane, like the bamboo and Indian 
maize, belongs to the family of grasses ; and growing to 
the height of ten or fifteen feet, its broad leaves and large, 
silky panicles, give it a beautiful aspect. Here the sugar- 
cane flowers only after the lapse of twelve or fifteen months 
from the period of planting it. The flowers are small, 
abundant, and clothed externally with numerous silky hairs. 

The cultivation of these staples, cotton, rice, and sugar, 
one would suppose from the present vaccilating system of 
peonage, or that of depending upon peones for labor, could 
never, in Mexico, attain a flourishing condition, nor even 



284 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

become abundant for home consumption ; for if a capitalist 
should invest his all in a plantation or una hacienda and 
its appurtenances, the natives might smile at him, when he 
wished their labor most, and going to their banana patches, 
bask in the sun, waiting for bananas to drop from the branch 
by the force of gravitation, rather than labor, in order to 
satisfy their hunger. Notwithstanding the great disadvan- 
tages rising from the want of labor, the cultivation of these 
staples being attentively and prudently pursued, in this 
region, by a few planters, amply rewards their risks and 
expectancies ; for their improvements are of the cheapest 
character. 

In this valley there are already begun several coffee plan- 
tations on a small scale, one of which is owned by Seiior 
Barney, who will have planted this year, 1856, thirty thou- 
sand trees, in addition to twenty thousand trees which have 
already borne. From having been in coffee regions prior 
to this, and the incidental knowledge I have hence acquired 
in this respect, I am fully impressed with the conviction 
that few regions possess more eminent advantages than 
this, to promote this branch of agriculture and commerce ; 
and that too, with a quality of coffee seldom excelled. 
From my observation, there is not that spirit nor that study 
respecting its characteristics in the setting out, culture and 
pruning of coffee trees in this region, that one would expect 
to flow from the enormous high price which coffee berries 
usually bear in this market. They are worth by the whole- 
sale twenty-five cents a pound near las haciendas. In 
Guadalajara, Tepic, Mazatlan, and Guaymas, they are 
much dearer, being worth forty cents per pound by the 
wholesale. 

In this valley I observed several cacao trees in successful 
bearing, and I understood that formerly much more atten- 
tion was paid to their cultivation than at present. In com- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 285 

paring them with other trees that I had seen in the United 
States, they reminded me most of a May-duke cherry tree ; 
for the cacao tree both in size and shape, somewhat resem- 
bles a young cherry tree just coming into bearing ; but that 
separates near the ground into four or five stems. The 
leaves are about four inches in length, smooth, but not 
glossy, and of a dull green color. The flowers are saffron- 
colored, and are very beautiful. The fruit of the cacao tree 
somewhat resembles a cucumber in shape, but is furrowed 
deeper on the sides. Its color, while growing is green, but 
as it ripens, this changes to a fine bluish-red, almost purple 
with pink veins ; or in some of the varieties, to a delicate 
yellow or lemon color. Each of the pods contains from 
twenty lo thirty nuts or kernels, which, in shape, are not 
much unlike almonds, and consist of a white, sweet pulpy 
substance, enveloped in a parchment-like shell. As soon 
as the fruit is ripe, it is gathered and cut into slices ; and 
the nuts, being at this time in a pulpy state, are taken out 
and laid on skins or leaves to be dried. They have now a 
sweetish acid taste, and may be eaten like other fruit. When 
dry, they are put up into bags for market. These trees 
commonly grow from fifteen to twenty feet high, do not 
branch out so much as many other fruit-bearing trees ; and 
four hundred of them can be successfully cultivated on one 
acre ; which here would remunerate the planter at least fifty 
cents per tree, and one hand or operative could tend to six 
acres of them, besides raising bananas enough to subsist on. 
Everywhere I cast my eye to observe fruit, I saw the 
banana and plantain trees rearing their golden heads, laden 
with the most generous and nutritious of the productions of 
the earth, suitable to the wants of a primitive, — yea, a pol- 
ished people. The manner of forming a new plantation of 
these trees, is by taking shoots from one to three feet high, 
broken off from the mother plant in its bearing state ; and 



286 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

in eight or nine months after these shoots have been inserted 
into the ground, they will begin to form their clusters, and 
the fruit may be gathered in less than a year from the time 
of planting. When the old stalks are cut down, in order 
to perpetuate the plantation or patch of them, and hasten 
a new coming harvest, there is always found among the nu- 
merous shoots which have put forth roots, one that will bear 
fruit three months later. It is considered among those in- 
ured to their growth, that the trees should be frequently 
succored, leaving one or two shoots, that the fruit may be 
much enlarged from that circumstance. These shoots, form- 
ing trees so soon, may be set in rows four or five feet apart 
each way ; and each tree, under good cultivation, is con- 
sidered to yield at least forty pounds of fruit per year. 
Thus a plantation of these trees is perpetuated without any 
other care, than that of cutting off the old stalks on which 
the fruit has ripened, letting them and the leaves decom- 
pose on the same ground, which process is said to enrich it; 
therefore these serve as a sufficient dressing. 

With regard to the characteristics of the banana, it must 
be fully conceded to be one of the most valuable bounties 
of nature bestowed upon man. It is a species of the genus 
musa, and is technically known by the name of musa sap- 
ientium, growing in most tropical countries, and having 
leaves about eight feet long and one foot broad in the mid- 
dle, and fruit four or five inches long, and in shape, resem- 
bling the cucumber. When ripe, the banana is a very 
agreeable fruit, with a soft and luscious pulp, and is fre- 
quently introduced in desserts within the tropics, and it is 
seldom eaten green like the plantain. I discovered the 
Mexicans to have a superstitious dislike as to cutting this 
fruit across, and they slice it always from end to end ; be- 
cause in the former case, the section presents an imaginary 
resemblance to the instrument of our Saviour's crucifixion. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 287 

The banana is sometimes fried in slices. If the pulp of this 
fruit be squeezed through a fine wire sieve, it may be formed 
into small loaves, which, after having been properly dried, 
may be kept for a long length of time. 

The plantain tree is another one of the most valuable 
gifts of Providence, to perpetuate and feed man in a tropi- 
cal climate. It is also another of the genus musa, and of 
the palm tribe, known technically by the name of musa 
paradisiaca. The stem of this tree or plant, is soft, herba- 
ceous, fifteen or twenty feet high, with leaves often more 
than six feet long, and nearly two feet broad. The spike of 
flowers is nearly four feet long, and nodding. The fruit which 
succeeds the fertile flowers on the lower^part of the spike, is 
often eight or nine inches long, and above an inch in diame- 
ter ; at first it is green, but when ripe it is of a pale yellow 
color, and has a delicious sweet pulp. It is reputed to be 
one of the most useful fruits in the vegetable creation, and 
as some of the plants are in bearing most of the year, it 
forms the entire sustenance of many of the inhabitants of 
tropical countries. 

The fruit on one spike or bunch, is often known to weigh 
from sixty to eighty pounds, when remarkably well culti- 
vated. In case of being used as bread, it is roasted or 
boiled when fully grown, and when ripe it is made into 
tarts, sliced and fried in butter, or dried and preserved as 
a sweetmeat. Five dozen plantains are esteemed sufficient 
to serve one man for a week, instead of bread, and will sup- 
port him much better. The number generally grown on a 
bunch, varies from one hundred to one hundred and sixty, 
and even sometimes run up to one hundred and eighty. In 
this valley, with the advantages of irrigation, the slips 
from the standard plants are set out or renewed every 
month in the year ; and a rapid growth in a young orchard, 
or huerta de plantanos, is the consequence of good cultiva- 



288 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

tion, and in ten months from planting or setting the shoots, 
the husbandman may look for an ample return for his labor. 
There are several varieties of the banana ; some are much 
larger, but never in ripening attain that sugary sweetness 
so common to the smaller kind. 

The pine-apple is another valuable production of this 
lovely valley, and is distinguished by its size and peculiar 
spicy flavor. It is extensively cultivated, and requires no 
more attention than the culture of beans ; the terminal 
tufts of leaves for re-producing the fruit, may be set two 
feet apart each way, producing thereby more than ten 
thousand pine-apples on one acre. As a fruit, it is usually 
pronounced the first class in the world, and it was originally 
discovered by the Europeans in Peru. The leaves are 
canaliculate in form, and spiny on the margin ; the stem 
erect, and about two feet high ; the flowers blue and united 
in a dense spike, which is crowned at the summit with a 
tuft of leaves ; the berries in ripening unite and give to this 
spike somewhat the form of a pine cone, but it is much 
larger. 

Here I noticed among the several varieties, one called 
botanically the B. pinguin, having the fruit separately in 
clusters, and not in a cone ; the leaves of this kind afford 
a fibre which is manufactured into cordage, and sometimes 
into cloth by the natives. 

From the pine-apple is made very good wine, which 
turns in about three weeks, but recovers by longer keeping. 
In the tropical countries, the fruit is often preserved entire 
by the rich, and when taken out of the syrup it is iced with 
sugar. 

Here I also noticed the Mamey, and Chirimoya, or cus- 
tard apple, growing in great perfection. As to the first, 
the tree appeared as large as tlie butter-nut tree in the 
United States, and its fruit is near tiie size and sliape of a 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 289 

goose egg ; and when ripe, the pulp is of a reddish or 
pink color, enveloping a kernel about the size and shape of 
an almond, though smooth and of a brown color. The 
fruit of this possesses rather a sickish or insipid sweetness, 
and to like it is a taste acquired. That of another kind, I 
noticed, seems to be a much smaller tree, about the size of 
a cherry or plum, and under good culture bears a fruit 
rather larger than a goose egg, and of that shape. When 
ripe, the rind looks yellowish, and also the pulp ; this is 
full of seeds which are near the size and shape of water- 
melon seeds, and it has a most luscious and spicy taste. 

This class of tropical fruit is recognized as the custard 
apple. In their character, these are blossom-bearing trees ; 
the bark is smooth and rather of an ashy color, and the 
form of the leaves somewhat lanceolate, of a pale greenish 
complexion. One hundred of these may be cultivated on 
an acre successfully, and each be made to yield three dol- 
lars worth of fruit per year. 

In this prolific region of country, I observed several of 
the most useful species of the palm family, the pride of 
the tropics, and more than any other contributing to give 
a peculiar and imposing character to the vegetation of these 
regions. Their lofty, straight and unbranching trunks, 
crowned at the summit by a tuft of large, radiating leaves, 
gives them an aspect entirely unique, and far surpassing that 
of other trees in majesty. Aside from the grandeur of 
their appearance, many of them hardly yield to any other 
vegetable in useful properties. They belong to the mono- 
catyledonous division of plants, and have their parts ar- 
ranged in threes or one of the multiples of that number. 
The calyx has six divisions, more or less profound ; the 
stamens are six in number, and the fruit consists of a berry 
or drupe, composed of a substance sometimes hard and 
scaly, but more often fleshy or fibrous, surrounding three or 

L* 



290 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

usually, iv single one-seeded nut. The stem is simple, or 
very rarely branching, and is sustained by a mass of fibrous 
roots at the base. 

The species of the palm family of plants are quite nu- 
merous ; and among the more useful of the palms may be 
mentioned the cocoa-nut, the sago, and the date. Though 
some of the palm family attain the stature of trees, yet in 
some of the species the stem rises only a few inches above 
the surface of the ground. This stem is round ; but inter- 
nally the fibres are arranged in fascicles, and not in con- 
centric circles, as with trees generally. The stem is 
covered externally with the sheaths of the fallen leaves or 
their cicatrices, and is terminated with a tuft of pinnate 
or flabelliform leaves. The center is soft, while the cir- 
cumference is firm and hard like horn. From the midst 
of the leaves arises a simple or branching spadix, on which 
the numerous small flowers are disposed, and which at first, 
is enveloped in one or several spathas or sheaths. 

While in the valley of Colima, and contemplating the 
bounties of Providence bestowed upon man, T noticed with 
much attention and admiration the wise economy in nature 
with reference to the amount she might sustain on an acre 
of ground, without conflicting with the usual routine of 
other productions. In this respect, I saw the cocoa-nut 
palm planted among coffee, cacao, plantain and banana 
trees, and also, among sugar-cane and other staple growths, 
towering high and serving as a screen to those tender veg- 
etable-like trees, which the intense heat of a tropical sun 
not unfrequently tends to blast. Tliese palms planted in 
this manner, demand no extra cultivation from the growths 
among which they stand, and may be set twenty feet apart 
each way, giving thereby about one hundred trees to the 
acre. The cocoa-nut tree first produces fruit when seven 
or eight years old ; after which each tree yields annually 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 291 

from fifty to a hundred nuts, worth in this region of Mexico, 
three cents each. The manner of propagation observed 
with respect to this kind, is to prepare a plat of ground 
where it can be plentifully irrigated during the dry season ; 
and then the nuts may be set out two feet apart in each 
direction, care being taken to cultivate and irrigate them 
when required, till they are two years old, when they 
should be carefully taken up, and transplanted to the 
orchard ground designated for their bearing. 

The cocoa-nut is a woody fruit, of an oval shape, from 
three or four to six or eight inches in length, covered with 
a fibrous husk, and lined internally with a white, firm and 
fleshy kernel. This tree (cocos nucifera botanically 
called) producing the cocoa-nut, and being of the palm 
family, often rises as if plumbed by a master builder, from 
forty to sixty feet high, having on its summit only leaves 
or branches, which appear like immense feathers, each 
fourteen or fifteen feet long, three feet broad and winged. 
Of these, the upper ones are erect, the middle ones hori- 
zontal, and the lower ones are drooping. The trunk is 
naked, straight, and marked with the scars of the fallen 
leaves. The nuts hang from the summit of the tree in 
clusters of a dozen or more together. The external rind 
of the nut has a smooth surface, and is of a somewhat trian- 
gular shape. This encloses an extremely fibrous substance 
of considerable thickness, which immediately surrounds the 
nut. The latter has a thick and hard shell, with three 
holes at the base, each closed with a black membrane. 
The kernel that lines the shell, is sometimes an inch in thick- 
ness, and encloses a considerable quanty of sweet and 
watery liquid, of a whitish color, which enjoys the reputa- 
tion of milk. The kernel of the nut in taste somewhat 
resembles the filbert, and is used as food in various modes 
of dressing. When pressed in a mill, they yield an oil, 



292 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

■which, in some countries, is the only oil used at table ; and 
which, when fresh, is equal in quality to that of almonds. 
The milk or fluid contained in the nut is an exceedingly 
cool and agreeable beverage, Avhich, when good, somewhat 
resembles the kernel in flavor. The fibrous husks or coats 
which envelope the cocoa-nut, after having been soaked 
for some time in water, become soft and remarkably 
pliable ; they are then beaten in order to free them from 
the other substances with which they are intermixed, and 
which fall away like saw dust, the stringy part only being 
left ; this is then spun into long yarns, woven into sail- 
cloth, or twisted into cables, even for large vessels. The 
cordage thus manufactured is in several respects prefera- 
ble to that brought from Europe ; but particularly for the 
advantages which are derived from its floating in water. 
The woody shells of the nuts are so hard as to receive a 
high polish, and are formed into drinking cups, which are 
much used in the southern portions of the United States, 
and tropical countries ; and also into other domestic 
utensils, which are sometimes expensively mounted in 
silver. On the summit of the cocoa-nut tree, the tender 
leaves at their springing up, are folded over each other, so 
as to somewhat resemble a cabbage. These are occasion- 
ally eaten in place of culinary greens, and are a very 
delicious food, though expensive, being at the destruction 
of the tree. Among the natives of this country, the larger 
leaves are extensively used for the thatching of buildings, 
and are wrought into baskets, brooms, mats, sacks, ham- 
mocks and many other useful articles for domestic uses. 
The trunks are made into boats by the natives of the 
tropics, and furnish them timber for the construction of 
their houses; and when their central is cleared away, they 
form excellent gutters for the conveyance of water. If 
whilst growing, the body of the tree be bored, a white and 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 293 

sweetish liquor exudes from the wound which is called 
toddy. This I noticed was collected in vessels of earthen- 
ware, and it is much esteemed as a beverage. It is highly- 
nutritious and stomachic. When fresh it is very sweet ; 
in a few hours it becomes somewhat acid, and in this state 
it is perfectly agreeable ; but in the space of twenty-four 
hours it is complete vinegar. By distillation, this liquor 
yields an ardent spirit, sometimes called rack, and is more 
esteemed than that obtained by distillation from rice or 
sugar. If boiled with quick-lime it thickens into a syrup, 
which is much liked by the natives. 

In this region of country, and towards the sea coast, 
and up and down it from a short distance out of the port 
of Manzanillo, I noticed another kind of palm, botanically 
called sagus Rumphii, and to abound seemingly without 
end. It grows wild, forming extensive and shady forests, 
which I discovered most agreeable to me, when wishing to 
rest from travel under their extended branches. The trunk 
is upright, and is crowned at the summit with a tuft of pin- 
nated leaves, composed of very numerous, long, narrow, 
smooth and pointed leaflets. The fruit is about the size of 
a pullet's egg, covered with shining scales, and is edible. 
In the region of its abundant growth in this country, an 
extensive and growing business is pursued by the natives 
in gathering the nuts and pressing them in a primitive look- 
ing mill, which process is called manufacturing palm oil. 
It is much esteemed and readily sold in the inland markets, 
and also, to foreign vessels. The trunk contains a farina- 
ceous pith, which is a very wholesome aliment. Sago is 
made from it, as from that of most other palms. For this 
purpose, the pith is taken out, bruised in a mortar, and put 
into a cloth strainer ; it is then held over a trough, and 
water being poured in, the pith is washed through the 
strainer into the trough below ; the water then being drawn 



294 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

off, the sago is taken out and dried for use or transporta- 
tion. It is highly esteemed as an article of food. Sago is 
granulated in a manner similar to that adopted in the pre- 
paration of Tapioca, made from the manioc, which I shall 
shortly mention as being found indigenous to Anahuac. 

In taking a more ample survey of las huertas de la ciu- 
dad de Golima, or the gardens of the city of Colima, I 
observed still another variety of the palm family, known 
generally as the date palm ; though of tliis class I saw 
but few, yet I could really discover no reason why this 
palm would not flourish as well here and in the sonthern 
portions of California, and of the United States, as in the 
region of Biledulgerid. This is a majestic tree, rising sixty 
feet and upwards ; the trunk is straight, simple, scaly, 
elegantly divided by rings, and crowned at the summit by 
a tuft of very long pendant leaves. The leaves are ten or 
twelve feet long, composed of alternate narrow folioles, 
folded longitudinally. The male and female flowers are 
upon different trees. The fruit is disposed in ten or twelve 
very long pendent bunches. This palm is reproduced from 
the roots, or shoots, or by planting the axil of the leaves in 
the earth, which is the most approved mode, as female 
plants may be selected, while a few males, scattered here 
and there, are quite sufficient. Great care should be taken 
to water them frequently, and protect them from the rays 
of the sun, till they have taken root. Plants raised by this 
method will bear fruit in five or six years ; while other- 
wise, fifteen or twenty years might be required. When 
the male plant is in bloom, the pollen is collected and scat- 
tered over the female flowers. Each female produces ten 
or twelve bunches every year, which, when gathered, are 
hung up in a dry place, until so much of their moisture is 
evaporated, as to allow of their being packed. The fruit 
is an oval, soft, drupe, having a very hard stone, with a 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 295 

longitudinal furrov/ on one side, and when fresh, I discov- 
ered it to possess a delicious perfume and taste. Dates are 
sugary, very nourishing, wholesome, and require no pre- 
paration. The best fruits of this kinds I noticed, have 
firm flesh, of a yellow color. They are varied by culture 
both in size and shape. A bunch weighing twenty or 
twenty-five pounds, is worth from eighty cents to one dol- 
lar, when of good quality. This palm may be planted the 
same distance apart as the cocoa-nut palm, making about 
one hundred on an acre, and in the same manner, among 
other arborary growths. I was informed that almost every 
portion of this most valuable tree is converted into use. 
The wood is very hard, almost incorruptible, and is used 
for building. The leaves after being macerated in water, 
become supple, and are manufactured into hats, mats, and 
baskets. The petioles afford fibres from which cordage is 
made. In China, the nuts after being burnt, are much used 
in the composition of India ink. Palm wine is made from 
the trunk. For this purpose, the leaves are cut ofi", and a 
circular incision made a little below the summit of the tree, 
then a deep and vertical fissure, and a vase is placed below 
to receive the juice, which is protected from evaporation. 
The time of planting the shoots is early in the spring, and 
such situations for an orchard of this kind, should be selec- 
ted as abound in springs, or can be easily irrigated at pleas- 
ure. It is said this kind of palm lives from two hundred 
to three hundred years. Not withstanding, the trunk is 
used for the beams and rafters of houses, and also for 
implements of husbandry ; the pith of the young trees is 
eaten, as well as the young and tender leaves. Sometimes 
ardent spirit is distilled from the fruit ; and the stones are 
ground to make oil ; and the paste that is left is given to 
cattle and sheep. This tree thus considered, with those I 
have just mentioned of this most valuable family of plants, 



296 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

fills, to almost an inconceivable extent, that order of nature, 
which excites the admiration, and teaches man reverence, 
and that the " Deity believed is joy matured." 

In observing many trees quite common to this region, 
none seemed more grateful to me of a hot day, than to fall 
in with a Tamarind tree. Its short trunk, with its branch- 
ing limbs extending out at least twenty feet from the cen- 
ter, and its small leaves, seemed to welcome the wearied 
traveller, or one walking or riding about to observe the 
gardens, to the shades of freshness and repose. This is a 
large and beautiful tree, belonging to the natural family 
leguminosoe. The leaves are pinnate, composed of sixteen 
or eighteen pairs of sessile leaflets, which are half an inch 
only in length, and one-sixth in breadth. The flowers are 
disposed, five or six together, in loose clusters ; the petals 
are yellowish, and beautifully variegated with red veins. 
The pods are thick, compressed, and of dull brown color 
when ripe. The seeds are flat, angular, hard and shining, 
and are lodged in a dark, soft, and adhesive pulp. The 
fruit has an agreeable, acid and sweetish taste, is refriger- 
ant and gently laxative. A simple infusion in warm w^ater, 
forms in a hot climate a very grateful beverage, especially 
to invalids, and in case of febrish diseases. 

Along the Mexican coast on the Pacific, and on the mar- 
gins of the rivers, and in damp situations, I noticed the 
bamboo cane in forest-like form, while its importance for 
native use, struck me with its imposing characteristics. It 
has a hollow, round, straight, and shining stem, and some- 
times grows to the height of forty feet and upwards ; has 
knots at the distance of ten or twelve inches from each 
other, with thick, rough, and heavy sheaths, alternate 
branches, and small, entire, and spear-shaped leaves. 
There is scarcely any plant in hot climates so common as 
this, and few are more extensively useful. Many of the 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 297 

inhabitants, especially the natives of the tropics build their 
houses almost wholly of bamboo, and make all sorts of fur- 
niture with it, in a Tcry ingenious manner. They likewise 
form with it several kinds of utensils for their kitchens and 
tables. Boxes, baskets, and many other articles, as well 
as the masts of small boats, are made of this valuable plant. 
After having been bruised, steeped in water and formed 
into pulp, paper is manufactured from the sheaths and 
leaves. The stems are frequently bored and used as pipes 
for conveying water. Many of the walking canes used in 
Europe and in the United States, are formed of young 
bamboo shoots. 

Within the tropics, I have froqu^ently noticed the natives 
building a bamboo house, which was done by cutting the 
canes off twelve or fifteen feet long, and digging a trench 
the circuTuference of the house plot, and near eighteen 
inches deep, when the canes are set in rows close together, 
leaving a space for doors and windows, and then the earth 
is thrown back and trod compactly. The rafters and beams 
to these houses are composed of the same plant, while they 
are covered with palm leaves. 

In my review of plants and trees, and of their produc- 
tions and adaptation towards supplying the wants of man 
in a native state, while sojourning in Mexico, the charac- 
teristics of the Jatropha manihot or the manioc, enforced 
the utility of this plant upon me, as one deserving of high 
consideration. It was well known to the Aztecs, was culti- 
vated by them, and it formed among them one of their most 
valuable staples of life. It is a tortuous shrub, allied to 
the castor-oil plant, and interesting from the nutritious 
qualities of its roots. It is indigenous to tropical America. 
The stem is smooth, branching, and six or seven feet high ; 
the leaves are alternate, deeply divided into from three to 
seven lobes, which are lanceolate, acute, and entire ; the 



298 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

flowers are disposed in loose compound racemes, aud the 
calyx is reddish or pale yellow. The fruit is almost glob- 
ular, and is composed of three cells, each containing a 
shining seed about as large as those of the castor-oil plant. 
It is easily cultivated, grows rapidly, produces abundantly, 
and accommodates itself to most every atmosphere, and 
also to almost every kind of soil. The roots attain the size 
of the thigh, requiring a year to bring them to that perfec- 
tion ; nor can they be kept in the ground for a longer 
period than two seasons. It is said that one acre of man- 
ioc will nourish more persons than six acres of wheat. I 
am told by those who understand the culture of this plant, 
that every part of it is filled with a milky juice, which is 
almost instant poison, bringing on death in a few minutes 
when swallowed ; and it may well excite surprise that 
human ingenuity should have converted its roots into an 
article of food. For this purpose the roots are ground in 
a mill, or pounded to the consistency of paste, which is then 
put into sacks, and these are exposed for several hours to 
the action of a very heavy press. By this means, it is 
deprived of all the poisonous juice, and the residue is called 
cassava. Cassava flour, when kept free from moisture, 
will continue good for fifteen or twenty years. It is very 
nutritious, half a pound a day being sufficient for one per- 
son. It is also the basis of several diflerent beverages, 
some of which are acid, agreeable, and even nutritive. 
The substance called tapioca, is separated from the fibrous 
part of the roots hj taking a small quantity of the pulp, 
after the juice is extracted, and working it by hand, till 
a thick white cream appears on the surface. This being 
scraped off and washed in water, gradually subsides to the 
bottom. After the water is poured off", the remaining mois- 
ture is dissipated by a slow fire, and the substance, being- 
eonstantly stirred, gradually forms into grains about as 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 299 

large as those of sago. This is considered the purest and 
most wholesome part of the manioc. 
Adios, 

Sefior, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



300 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTER XLYII. 



Banian Tree, and its Fruit— Description of— Maize, its general Use— Famine— Palo 
de Yaca, a Cow Tree— Description tliereof— Variety of Plums— Peruvian Bark 
—The Tree— Description of— sarsaparilla Vine— Kind of Capsicum— ilahogany 
and Logwood Trees— Desci-iption of— Vanilla Plant, and its Use. 



A:migo Mio : — The celebrated banian tree, so well 
know and so much venerated in the East from its shading 
propensities, solicited of me a moment's attention ; especially 
one day when I had become much fatigued from walking. 
I noticed but few of the banian trees ; however, I under- 
stood them to be indigenous to the country. It appears to 
be one of the most remarkable curiosities of the vegetable 
kingdom. It never dies ; for every branch shoots down- 
wards, and striking into the ground, becomes itself a parent 
tree, whose branches in like manner spread. I saw several 
which would shelter at least one thousand persons, all at 
once. The bark is rather brownish, or ashy color, and 
when a branch is cut off, there issues from the incision a 
milky Juice, which is very adhesive and glutinous. I noticed 
a small fruit growing on these trees, which very much re- 
sembles the iig in shape, of a scarlet color, and is used in 
the same manner as cucumbers for pickles. 

This region also produces maize, in connection with the 
other productions, which I have attempted to describe. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 301 

The cultivation of it is far more extensive than that of the 
plantain, banana or manioc. Advancing towards the cen- 
tral plains, one meets with fields of this important plant all 
the way from the coast to the valley of Tolucca, which is 
upwards of three thousand feet above the sea. Notwith- 
standing the bounteous productions of nature in her fruits 
and other grains in the Mexican Republic, maize must be 
considered as the principal food of the people, as well as of 
most of the domestic animals ; and the year in which the 
maize harvest fails, is one of famine and misery to the in- 
habitants. It was a staple production among the Aztecs, 
and formed the staff of their subsistance. Out of the stalks 
they manufactured their syiups and sugars ; and the kernels 
being smashed or ground between two stones, one being a 
hand stone, aud the other hollowed out to receive them ; 
the paste or substance munufactured thus, was manipulated 
in such a manner as to give a round ball of it the form of a 
pancake, though thinner, which custom or usage has been 
handed down to the present time. The cakes thus made 
were baked on stones in the pristine days of Anahuac ; but 
at present, on thin iron plates over a coal fire. The fecun- 
dity of the Mexican variety of maize is astonishing ; fertile 
lands yielding usually a return of three hundred or four 
hundred fold. Of all the gramina cultivated by man, none 
is so unequal as this in its produce ; as it varies in the same 
field, according to the season, from forty to two hundred or 
three hundred for one. If the harvests are good, the plant- 
er makes his fortune more rapidly than by any other grain ; 
the price varying from fifty cents to two dollars per fifty 
pounds. But frightful dearths sometimes occur, when the 
natives are obliged to feed on unripe fruit, cactus, berries, 
and roots. Diseases arise in consequence ; and these fam- 
ines are usually attended with a great mortality among the 
children. During this season of famine, all domestic ani- 
mals suffer, nearly in like manner. 



302 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

The grain when beaten affords a nutritive bread called 
arepa, and the meal is employed in making soups or gruels, 
which are mixed with sugar, honey, and even sometimes 
with pounded potatos. Many kinds of drinks are also pre- 
pared from it, some resembling beer, while others do cider. 
In the valley of Tolucca, the stalks are squeezed between 
two cylinders, and from the fomented juice a spirituous 
liquor, called pulquede mahis, is produced. 

As one among the most striking curiosities of nature, 
which has as yet come to my knowledge in this strange 
country, I was shown, one day in a craggy place, and while 
on the western slope of the Mexican Cordillera, a tree called 
by the natives, palo de vaca, that is, cow tree. My atten- 
tion was arrested by the peculiar uniqueness of the name, 
and my curiosity became much excited to discover the 
reason of its being so called. It appears to be peculiar to 
the littoral Cordillera. This tree has oblong pointed leaves, 
with a somewhat fleshy fruit, containing one, or sometimes 
two nuts. When an incision is made in the trunk, there 
issues abundantly a thick glutinous milky fluid, perfectly 
free from acrimony, and having an agreeable smell. When 
exposed to the air, the juice presents on its surface a yellow- 
ish cheesy substance, in membranous layers, which are 
elastic, and in five or six days become sour, and afterwards 
putrify. Contemplating the character of this tree, a few 
drops of a vegetable fluid impresses one with the power and 
fecundity of nature. It grows on the parched side of a 
rock not unfrequently, having a dry and leathery foliage, 
while its large woody roots scarcely penetrate into the 
ground. For several months in a year its leaves are not 
moistened by a shower, its branches look as if they were 
dead or withered ; but when the trunk is bored, a bland 
and nourishing milk flows from it. I understood that, at 
sun-rise, this vegetable fountain would flow most freely. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 303 

Never was there a country more verified by Scripture, with 
reference to the fountains of life flowing freely, than this ; 
for behold here the vine and the fig tree, the milk and the 
honey ! 

In the city of Colima, and all through the country on 
ranchos and haciendas, I saw three kinds of plums, which 
I should think all indigenous, having a purple, greenish, and 
yellow color when ripe ; the first is much the largest, being 
about the size of a pullet's egg, and having somewhat the 
resemblance in shape to a crab apple ; the others are 
smaller, but partake of the same form. They are all sweet, 
scarcely having a subacid taste, when ripe ; and in this 
state, the pulp is remarkable mellow, while the stone is 
rather larger than that of the best class cultivated ^in the 
United States. The tree resembles the fig tree both in 
size, form, and also in the color of its bark ; and with 
respect to the habit of its being reproduced, it is by slips or 
shoots, which, if large when cut off, will bear a considerable 
fruit the next year ; the time for setting them in the ground 
being in the midst of the rainy season, June and July. 
These plum trees blossom in March and the fruit begins to 
be abundant about the first of May. They present a most 
striking anomaly in the characteristics of fruit-bearing trees, 
with reference to their ripening their fruit before the leaves 
begin to shoot out. This appearance is truly unique, and 
creates in one a spontaneous glow of admiration, when he 
beholds them in all the different stages of perfecting these 
golden bounties assigned to man. The blossoms are of a 
scarlet color, though somewhat resembling the lilac, and 
issue forth in clusters on the ends of the branches, and 
along their lateral surface. 

There is also another species of this class of plums, which 
I noticed growing abundantly, and in a wild state, among 
other forest trees. It resembles those mentioned in every 



304 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

respect, except the fruit is rather oblong, red, and possess- 
ing a remarkable acidity. 

Having closed my observations with regard to the culti- 
vated productions and fruits, having come under my notice 
in this prolific country, especially in this region, may it not 
be presuming to note and consider what nature has here 
spread out in her forests, to promote the happy condition 
of man ! 

Before this, I had frequently read descriptions of the 
Peruvian tree, so celebrated for bearing the Peruvian bark, 
which is so well known and distinguished for its natural 
medicinal properties in feverish diseases, both as tonic and 
stomachic; especially its extracted substance called 
quinine. This tree is one of the various species of chin- 
chona, which is the spontaneous growth of many parts of 
tropical America. I was informed by Sefior Barney of 
Colima that it abounded near the coast, and that he had 
tested its properties. A few of the trees came under my 
notice ; and in appearance this' tree resembles somewhat 
a cherry tree, and bears clusters of red flowers. The bark 
is of three kinds ; the red, the yellow, and the pale. The 
crown bark, as the highest priced is termed, is of a pale, 
yellowish red. It is much used here in case of fevers. 
The true or medicinal kind of smilax, known commonly as 
Sarsaparilla, abounds throughout the Mexican coast on the 
Pacific. Much of this is gathered by the natives, baled in 
packages of one hundred and fifty pounds, and brought 
into Colima for sale. It is then shipped to foreign coun- 
tries, Europe and the United States. It is a green vine, 
usually spiny, and seems in its botanical characters allied 
to the asparagus, but different in its habit. The leaves are 
scattered, coriaceous or membranous, entire, nerved, and 
usually more or less heart-shaped ; while the leaf-stalks 
are provided with tendrils at their base. The flowers are 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 305 

dioecious, chiefly disposed in little axillary umbels, and the 
corolla is divided into six lobes ; and the male flowers have 
six stamens. The Fruit is a small globular berry, usually 
having three seeds. The roots are very long and slender, 
with a wrinkled bark, brown externally and white within, 
and have a small, woody heart. They are inodorous, 
having a mucilaginous and a slightly bitter taste, with 
somewhat sudorific and dioretic properties ; yet in a slight 
degree ; and are in this country considered a most valuable 
specific by the natives, in venereal and scrofulous diseases. 

In extensive domestic use among the families at Co- 
lima, and throughout the country, I observed a kind of 
capsicum. This pepper tree abounds extensively in the 
forests along the coast, though somewhat back from it, and 
might, with the articles just mentioned, and with those 
under consideration, be made most valuable objects of com- 
merce. It is rather succulent, perennial and shrubby in 
its habit. The leaves are simple, smooth, veined, and 
somewhat pubescent. The flowers are disposed in nearly 
filiform aments, are destitute of either calyx or caroUa, and 
are separated by very small scales ; these aments or spikes 
are opposite to the leaves or terminal. The pods are from 
one to two inches long, somewhat cone-shaped, with rounded 
base, and before fully ripe, of a dark greenish color. The 
taste is remarkably pungent, seemingly much more so than 
that of the Cayenne pepper sauce, which is so common in 
the market. The fruit of this plant or shrub is eaten here 
in large quantities, both with animal and vegetable food, 
and is mixed in greater or less proportion, with almost all 
kinds of sauces. Most of the species of peppers are almost 
strictly confined within the limits of the tropics, and abound 
particularly in the equatorial regions of America. 

Again while sojourning in this foreign land, I observed 
towards the coast, the Mahogany tree presenting its char- 
M 



306 TRAVELS ON THE WESTEEN SLOPE 

acteristics, lofty, beautiful and allied to the Pride of India. 
The tree is of a rapid growth, and its trunk often has a 
diameter of four feet. Its leaves are pinnate, composed of 
four pairs of oval, acuminate, entire leaflets, and destitute 
of a terminal one. The flowers are small and white, being 
disposed in loose panicles. The fruit is a hard, woody, 
oval capsule, about as large as a turkey's egg. The wood 
is hard, compact, reddish-brown, and susceptible of a high 
polish. I could but admire this family of trees when I 
contemplated the various uses to which the wood is applied, 
both among the civilized and enlightened, for articles of 
taste and polish. 

Not departing from my position, acres of logwood trees, 
of the leguminosoe family, presented the aspect of practi- 
cable and commercial utility ; however, these trees grow 
wild and in moist places. This species of tree is small 
and straf^gling ; the leaves are pinnate ; and the flowers 
small yellowish, and are disposed in axillary racemes at 
the extremity of the usually spinous branches. The wood 
is red tino-ed with orange and black, and so heavy as to 
sink in water, and susceptible of receiving a good polish. 
Thousands of cords of this wood are cut in the rear of San 
Bias and Mazatian, and other convenient ports on this 
Mexican coast, packed in on mules and burros, sold for one 
cent a pound, and shipped in return in European vessels 
which import foreign merchandise. I noticed more of this 
loo-wood transported and corded up at Mazatian than at 
any other port I visited on the Pacific side. 

In the forests of this region, I noticed a parasitical plant 
or vine called vanilla, a genus of orchidaceous plants. It 
is found in most of tlie tropical parts of America. The pod 
is of a yoUowish color, corrigated, about eight inches long, 
and containing in its cavity, besides numerous minute 
black seeds, a black, oily and balsamic substance. Its fra- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 307 

grance is owing to the presence of benzoic acid, crystals of 
which form upon the pod if left undisturbed. The proper- 
ties of this plant were well known to the Aztecs, and were 
used then as now, in flavoring chocolate, and other culinary 
and confectionary dishes, and also liquors. 

Having written and explained to you, amigo mio, much 
of my observations in this region, as well as in other por- 
tions of Mexico where I have traveled, in every sense 
which my knowledge of the arts and sciences will admit, 
in view of being unprepared to note the passing scenes and 
natural phenomena with any other instruments than my 
eyes, reason, judgment, pencil and paper ; you will please 
accept of this small contribution of light, without my affix- 
ing to it any lengthened or customary apology. However, 
while yet I retain my position and thoughts here, I cannot 
suppress my contemplation and admiration of this great 
and bountiful country. Nature has given it mountains 
towering many thousand feet into the air, that seem to 
divide the clouds and serve as electric rods to induce gentle 
showers to pour upon the fertile earth ; it has formed it 
with all that varied altitude and climate contributing to the 
health, comfort and luxuries of man ; it has lavished upon 
it all the grains, vegetables and fruits required to sustain 
his real or pampered wants ; it has conceived within its 
bowels all the precious metals, as well as useful, yet dis- 
covered for his exchange and use ; and finally, it has 
united in its volcanic throes, and eruptions, and contribu- 
tions, a soil so quick and ever ready to receive the impress 
of his labor, in almost all the tropical productions, and as 
bountiful in returning to him a most ample reward. 
Adios, 

Senor, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



308 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERS SLOP15 



LETTER XLVin. 

Orange, Lemon, Citron, and Fig Trees— Description of— Grape Vine— Its adaptation 
to portions of Mexico— Birds, Animals, and Insects. 

Amigo Mio : — Before taking leaye of the city of Col- 
ima, and while my mind is still alive to a full view of the 
fruitful family of plants and trees, tastefully ornamental to 
plots surrounding private residences, and to pleasure- 
grounds, medicinally conducive to health in the pliable pro- 
motion of the digestive organs ; and notoriously valuable 
to commerce ; the orange, the lemon, the citron, and the fig, 
should not be passed over in silence, nor without consider- 
ing their interesting and beautiful characteristics, as they 
hold so eminent a rank in the estimation of the world, for 
their various uses and appliances. The Orange tree is low, 
evergreen, and branching, bearing oblong, oval, acute, 
smooth and shining leaves, inserted on winged leaf-stalks, 
by which character, it is easily distinguished from the 
lemon. The flowers are white, containing about twenty 
stamens, and are disposed in clusters of from two to six 
upon a common peduncle. The fruit is globose, bright yel- 



OF THE •MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 309 

low, and contains a pulp, consistingof a collection of oblong 
vesicles filled with a sugary and and refreshing juice ; it is 
besides, divided into eight or ten compartments, each con- 
taining several seeds. I noticed here several varieties ; 
the sweet or China, the bitter or Seville, the Maltese, and 
Shaddock. The orange tree is exceedingly long-lived, like 
the grape vine, and is still considered young at the age of 
one hundred years. An essential oil is obtained from the 
flowers, which is hardly less appreciated than the ottor of 
roses. The wood of this tree is fine grained, compact, sus- 
ceptible of a fine polish, and is employed in the arts. The 
Shaddock is a large species of orange, attaining the diam- 
eter of seven or eight inches, with a white, thick, spongy, 
and bitter rind, and a red or white pulp, of a sweet taste, 
mingled with acidity. The rind of this orange, after being 
soaked in lime water twelve hours or more, is much used 
in dififerent countries, for conserves, stewed down in white 
or brown sugar. 

The lemon tree I saw in a few gardens in this city ; 
however, its general growth, so as to form an article of 
commerce to any extent, has not come under my observa- 
tion in Mexico. It is congenreic with the orange and cit- 
ron, and belongs to the natural family citrus. Its stature 
is that of a small tree, or a large shrub ; the leaves are 
oval, pointed, twice as long as broad, and like those of the 
other species, contain scattered glands, which are filled 
with a volatile oil. The beauty of its smooth evergreen 
foliage, and the delightful fragrance of the flowers and of 
the fruit, have contributed to make it a favorite of atten- 
tion and cultivation, as a reviving and solacing ornament, 
in almost every clime. The shape of the fruit is oblong ; 
but its internal structure does not differ much from the 
orange. The juice is acid and agreeable ; and mixed with 
water and sugar, it forms the well known refreshing drink 
called lemonade, used throughout the civilized world. 



310 TRAVELS ON THE WESTBRN SLOPE 

The citron is a small evergreen shrub, the parent stock 
being citrus medica; having large or slightly indented 
shining leaves, of somewhat oval shape, yet pointed, 
with no remarkable appendage on the footstalks of the 
leaves. The flowers are large and white, though purplish 
on the outside of the petals. 

The citron is oblong, with a very thick rind ; and the 
fruit partaking of the same quality as the lemon, with the 
exception of being somewhat less acid, is seldom eaten 
raw ; but it is preserved in sugar as a sweetmeat. The 
juice is procured by simply squeezing the fruit, and then 
straining it through a linen or any loose filter, and is con- 
sidered a most valuable remedy for the scurvy. The 
external part of the rind has a grateful aromatic and bitter 
taste, which renders it useful in cookery. When dried, it 
is esteemed a good stomahic, promotes the appetite, and is 
otherwise serviceable as medicine. 

The fig tree flourishes in this region ; and the fruit 
attains that perfection and sugary mellowness, unknown to 
the same varieties in the United States. The most deli- 
cious and valuable I saw were the purple, the yellow, and 
the white. Considering the qualities of the fig, it must be 
the climate in a great measure, that promotes this distin- 
guishable characteristic in the flavor and richness of its 
pulp, in the low altitudes within the tropics. The cultiva- 
ted f\cr tree seems to bear a stronoj resembhmce to the ban- 
ian tree, which I saw in this portion of the country, with 
reference to its leaves, bark, the manner of the fruit flow- 
ers and the form of the fruit, with the exception the latter 
is lacking the size and taste, and possessing more of a 
milky sap in its bark. The stem grows from twenty to thirty 
feet high, with a trunk sometimes two feet in diameter, 
giving out a great number of long, twisted, and pliant 
branches, which are grayisli and rough when young. The 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 311 

leaves are deciduous, of the size of the hand, having from 
three to five rounded lobes. The flowers are very small, 
unisexual, contained in great numbers in a common recep- 
ticle, which is fleshy and connivent at the summit, where it 
is almost closed by a series of little teeth. The male flow- 
ers occupy the superior part of this recepticle, and the 
female, which are the most numerous, the bottom, and all 
the remaining part of the cavity ; each ovary becomes a 
seed, surrounded with a pulp, which together with the 
receptacle, forms the fruit. 

The fruit is solitary, commonly of a purplish color, hav- 
ing a soft, sweet, and fragrant pulp. The process of 
increasing and ripening the fruit, I am told, is an art which 
requires much attention. The operation is rendered nec- 
essary by the two following facts, namely : that the culti- 
vated fig-bearers have mostly female flowers, while the male 
flowers are abundant upon the wild fig tree ; and secondly, 
that the flower of the fig is upon the inside of the receptacle, 
which constitutes the fruit. It is hence necessary, where 
figs are produced for commerce, to surround the plantation 
and gardens containing the trees, with branches and limbs, 
bearing male flowers, from the wild fig tree ; thus preparing 
the way for the fertilizing of the female flowers in the gar- 
den. And from these wild flowers, the fertilizing pollen is 
borne to the female flowers upon the wings and legs of small 
insects, which are found to inhabit the fruit of the wild fig 
tree. The easiest mode of re-producing this tree is by 
suckers, separated from the roots of old trees, and also, by 
boughs cut off and set in the ground in the spring, or during 
the rainy season of summer within the tropics. 

Throughout my travels on the western slope of the Mex- 
ican Cordillera, few cultivated grape vines attracted my 
a'eition ; and it is my impression that little attention is paid 
to the production of this most esculent and nutritious fruit, 



312 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

except in Lower California and Sonora, and in altitudes 
varying from four thousand feet to seven thousand or more, 
above the sea. From my knowledge of the wet and dry 
seasons in the regions of Colima, Zapotlan, Sayula, Guadal- 
ajara, Tepic, Mazatlan, Culiacan, and Guaymas, I can see 
no good reason why the cultivation of the vine could not be 
advantageously pursued, not only as an article of luxury, 
but as one of the most valuable staples of the country, in 
the production of wine and raisins. For the rainy season 
seldom continues over four months in a year, June, July, 
August and September ; and during the other eight months 
called the dry season, with a hot sunshine and serene sky, 
and also, with warm nights, that promote a most vigorous 
growth, the vine might, by observation, be so pruned and 
brought into bearing, as to ripen its fruit exclusively in 
that period. In the small village of Lahaina on Moui, 
one of the Hawaiian Islands, I was told by an inteUigent 
gentleman, Eeverend Alexander, of Lahainaluna, that, from 
his observation of the grape vine there, and on the lee side 
of that island, it would ripen its fruit almost universally in 
five months after pruning ; thus pruning the vine the first 
of December, would give the citizens of Lahaina ripe grapes 
on the first of May. This being the case at the Islands, in 
latitude about twenty-one degrees north, why should or 
would it not be equally so in the same latitude, or varying 
ten or twenty degrees to the southward, on the continent, 
possessing always any shade of climate by its altitude ? 

During my Mexican travels, I had no means of catching 
wild birds nor animals, except by shooting them, which I 
did not much approve of in a strange and foreign country ; 
as the only object I could allege in extenuation of such a 
slaughter, would be, to sr/^/s/^ speculative curiosity, yet not 
to subserve the purpose of food, nor of raiment ; therefore, 
I have but little to advance upon the subjects of ornithology. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 313 

zoology, or insects, in addition to my previous casual, and 
passing remarks. In the groves of fruit trees, and in the 
forests wild, I beheld the whole family of parrots, and many 
of the feathered tribe peculiar to the United States, as well 
as to Mexico, being birds of passage ; such as the northern 
buzzard, king bird, mocking bird, blue-backed warbler, 
yellow warbler, different species of owls, crows, larks and 
eagles, also ducks and geese, grouse, pheasants, yellow- 
throated warbler, red-eyed warbler, great American king- 
fisher, and many more which I will forbear to specify ; and 
others peculiar to Mexico, and tropical America, such as 
the sympathetic Anhima, which, loosing its mate, stays by 
the spot, mournful and pensive, seeking no food, till it dies 
also ; the Mexican pewee-tyrant, also the obscure, the black- 
ish, the bearded and musical tyrant, the red flycatcher, 
silent thrush, long-billed mocking bird, blue mocking bird, 
plain warbler, Mexican robbin, striped finch, Mexican gold 
finch, coronated jay, famous jay, Mexican red bird, white- 
billed parrot, coronated toucan, ant-eating wood-pecker, 
Mexican bittern, elegant wood-pecker, yellow-throated tree 
climber ; the refulgent, sea-green, broad-tailed, broad-billed, 
double-fork-tailed Mexican star, and amethystine, species of 
humming birds; the destroying eagle, Brazilian caracara, 
long-winged buzzard, gray tyrant, Domingo hangnest, mili- 
tary mackaw, and the black-eared humming bird ; and also 
many more, yet I will withhold a desire to enlarge this list. 
Of birds which serve as food, in this Eepudlic, for the use of 
man, there are about sixty kinds included in this class, 
and fifty-seven kinds of birds of plumage, — both gay and 
beautiful. 

With regard to wild animals, I noticed a few which are 
not common to high latitudes in North America, and I was 
informed of some species as being peculiar to tropical 
America, and existing in Mexico ; such as a species of the 



314 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Lynx, the Canadian porcupine, a peculiar kind of swine, 
small and somewhat resembling the hedgehog ; several 
kinds of monkies, somewhat unique to this country ; also, a 
tiger-cat ; however, other species, peculiar to North America 
abound in the low or high lands of Mexico ; such as deer, 
bison, bears, antelopes, wild-cats, catamounts, panthers, 
different kinds of wolves, beavers, and alligators. And 
further, about the uplands, and also the lowlands, I observed 
the magpie, wild turkies, and most of the gallinaceous tribe, 
the tribe of eagles, carion-crows, wild bees, butterflies, arge 
bats and ants, together with sandflies, gallinippers ; and with 
all, that creeping tribe of reptiles, both loathsome and revolt- 
ing to man, yet peculiar to the tropics. Moreover, there 
may be added to this list of animated nature, several kinds 
of animals and reptiles, as the tapir, jagour, cougar, ocelot, 
jagnarundi, tagnicati,j avail, porcupines, anteaters, gluttons, 
sloths, weasels, polecats, armadillos, cavies, rattle-snakes, 
lizai'ds, two species of boa, and a species of murex, produc- 
ing a fine purple dye. 

Throughout the tropical forests of Mexico, the plumage 
of birds, the hair of animals, and the down of insects ; 
glossy, refulgent, and beautiful ; or coarse, thin, and almost 
destitute with some ; or scarcely discernable upon others ; 
impress man respectively with peculiar notions as to the 
influence of climate, varying much from animated nature, 
within the temperate zones ; whilst the melodious notes of 
the aerial songsters, the roaring, howling, and hissing of 
animals and reptiles, and the buzz of insects, remind one of 
peculiarities in animal instinct, adapted to climate, and a 
life of joyful festivity, without a care for future stores. 
Adios, 

Seiior, 

Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 315 



LETTER XLIX. 



Consideration of this part of Mexico— Government— A griculture— Two-thirds of the 
Landed Estate held by the Clergy— Tottering Tenure of Mexico— Preparation 
and departure for California— Puerto de Manzanillo— Country Aspect— Cactus 
Flowering or Creeping Cereus--Description of— Rural Aspect— El Eio de la Al- 
meria— Encampment— Sleep— Departure at 12 o'clock at night— Danger of Ladro- 
nes— Description of the Danger— Distant yell— Expected Attack— Three Cros- 
ses—Great Fears— Forest Trees and Vines— Jalap Vine or Plant— Settlements- 
Feathered Tribe— Soil— Lake Cuyutlan— Salinas de Cuyutlan— Population - 
Palt Operations— Description of— Country aspect East and North of the afore- 
said Lake— Port of Manzanillo— Description of— Palms— Officials— Artesian Well 
Companj^ and Boring- Mines numerous— Sketches of Mexican History since 
the Revolution— Eepublican Principles Spread— Hatred between Spaniards and 
Creoles— Creole Congress declaring Mexico Free and Independent - Second 
Congress, in the capacity of a Convention, to settle the Principles of a Consti- 
tution—When adopted— The Form of the Mexican Governmeut, and Distribu- 
tion of its Powers— Religion of State— Army— Ecclesiastical Wealth, or that of 
the Clergy— Registry Law, or Law Lerdo -Policy of the Government since the 
Constitution was formed, up to the Period of Comonfort— Distinguished Men- 
Regeneration of the Government by Comonfort— His apparent Policy— First 
Offices of a Wise Government— Five Hundred Ladrones giving Terms of Peace 
to a City of Twelve Thousand Inhabitants— Configuration of Mexico, an indica- 
tion of Mineral Wealth-Mines Worked— Population of the Republic of Mexico- 
Its Classes— Wealth unevenly Divided— Education of a Few— Commerce Chill- 
ed—Indians resembling— Gadsden Purchase— Its reputed Mines and Extent- 
Objects of the Purchase— Its Railroad adaptability-The Route therefor-Villages 
and Towns in this new acquisition— Two Copper Mountains— Their Richness — 
H. S. Washburn's Notes, descriptive of the Gadsden Purchase— The Gila Valley 
—Arizona Copper Mines— Bones of the Oatman Familj^- Maricopa Villages — 
Pimo Villages— Soil of the Valley— Various Growths- Game— Extent of the 
Valley— The Seasons— Climate— Scenery— Indian Treatment -Indian Products 
—Chronic Growlers— Frequent Rains-Stock Country— Pioache Peak— Mezquit 
Timber— Gadsdonia Copper Mine— A Band of Apaches pursued by Americans — 
Tucson Valley— Its Soil— Population of the Town of Tucson— Mexican Outposts 
— Productions— Papago Indians -Rain in Tucson Valley— San Xavier— Fine 
Pineries— Sopori— Soil— Mezquit Beans— Silver Mine at Sopori— Arrivaca, its 
Climate and Soil— Tubatama-Productions— Altar, its Trade and Population— 
Sonio, Gold near— Zonoita, its importance— The Country well Watered— Tinaja 
Alta Route— Tinaj as Altas— Flower of the Mezquit Beans-Fruit resembling 
Figs. 

Amigo Mio : — This portion of Mexico (the district of 
Colima) like most of the other parts that have come under 



< 16 TRAVELS OX THE WESTERN SLOPE 

my notice, seems to lack that elastic spark which should 
construct, marshal and conduct the nerve, the energy of the 
nation to prosperity, happiness and the mutual alliance 
with the first powers of the world. The Government lacks 
home regulations, parental care and forethought with ref- 
erence to encouraging its people to pursue with increased 
vigor and study the arts and sciences, devoting more cir- 
cumspection and advantageous measures as to the promo- 
tion of agriculture, the basis of all other sources of wealth, 
importance and true preferment. It has been the custom 
here, as elsewhere, for the one who plows and tills the soil, 
bringing his produce to market, to be necessitated to pay 
at las Garitas, a consideration ad valorem for the privilege 
of selling it in the cities. It is this tax imposed directly 
upon the industry of the country, which the husbandmen 
have to pay openly, previously to selling whatsoever they 
may bring in, instead of the retail dealers, that fetters their 
energies and wills, without being the least encouraged by 
generous laws, tending to reward the sweat of their brows. 
It is reported and generally believed that full two-thirds 
of the landed estate of this Eepublic are in the possession 
of the Clergy, who let it out, it is said, so as to ensure 
themselves at least five per cent, clear on the original 
investment. I have heard it said generally, that this class 
are ever ready to lend money, taking mortgages on real 
estates advantageously situated, but that they never sell 
lands nor want money, so as to mortgage their estates ; 
therefore, if I may be piously excused by the reverend 
gentlemen, no comparison I can conceive, will hit them so 
appropriately and characteristically, as likening them to the 
Norwegian Maelstrom. In fact, the whole country bends 
its proud, tropical growtli to being so ecclesiastically and 
politically hag-ridden, with male attire, in the form of aspi- 
rants to high positions, that it is really a query — a wonder 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILEERA. 317 

it yet breathes — and the presumption is that it would not, 
were it not within the most genial influence of the tropics ! 

In speaking of the Mexican Republic thus plainly, in a 
religious and political sense, I do not wish to be understood 
that, in this great national cauldron which ceases not to 
boil by the reason of its volcanic fires, there is no good 
and patriotic worth in the country ; that I have from any 
one, met with maltreatment ; but I do wish to be under- 
stood to say, that this nation has mistaken its purpose and 
spot ; that its race is nearly run ; that it scarcely survives 
each successive ebulition and eruption ; and that the hectic 
flush is sometimes deceptive of hope, jet as often dies 
away, fast consuming its vitals. 

Having feasted my eyes and reason for sonie time past 
in this lovely country, and wished many a time that it 
could be happily governed — that its natural resources were 
in a rapid progress of developement — and that internal 
improvements were begun and constructed, in order to 
equalize the fruitful season of one portion of the country 
with the unfruitful season of another part, as affording 
means of inland transportation, thereby imticipating famine 
and guarding against it ; I feel most assuredly now a nat- 
ural desire to turn my thoughts towards home — the Land 
of Promise — the El Dorado of the West. 

Towards the last of April, (1856) being under the im- 
pression that the Nicaragua Line of Steamers would touch 
in at the port of Manzanillo, I was kindly supplied with 
saddle-mules and a servant to accompany me to the port, 
through the attentive courtesy of Senor Barney, to whom 
I feel under many obligations for the cordial and welcome 
extension of his house to my wants and pleasure, while I 
sojourned in the region of Colima. Being well armed and 
mounted, and taking leave of those whom I have every 
reason to esteem, I departed from Colima in the afternoon, 



318 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

accompanied by my servant, and rode till dusk, making 
twenty miles. We encamped at an Indian rancho till 
about t^Yelve o'clock ; and soon after encampment, partaking 
of some eggs, tortillas and milk, I lay down under a banian 
tree to rest. 

Most of the country I had traveled over in the afternoon 
was a fertile plain, with a few low hills and ridges near the 
trail, and abounding with a few growths only of any kind, 
with the exception of cactus, some of which resembled a 
tree, with reference to its trunk and houghs. The graceful 
curve of these attracted my attention and excited my admi- 
ration, bearing a delicious and cooling fruit, of a yellowish 
color, oblong, juicy, and quite full of small seeds. Through 
this part, I noticed many other species of this plant, but 
none calling forth so much pleasurable sensation as the 
kind called cactus granditlorus, or the night-flowering and 
creeping cereus. The blossom of this species, though very 
short-lived, is a splendid natural production, surpassing the 
imagination of art, or the combination of art and science. 
It begins to open in the evening between seven or eight 
o'clock, and by eleven o'clock it is fully blown, and at four 
or five o'clock in the morning it begins to fade ; soon after 
which it droops its beautiful head pensively downward, 
falling into a state of irrecoverable decay. When the plant 
is large, several blossoms will open in the same night, and 
there will be a succession of them for several nights together. 
The calyx when expanded, is about six inches in diameter, 
yet sometimes, I have seen it nearly a foot, yellow within, 
and dark brown without. The petals are many, and are of a 
pure white, while the great number of recurved stamina 
surrounding the style in the center of the blossom, tends to 
give it a grand and beautifully imposing appearance. 

The settlements through this afternoon's travel were 
sparse, not possessing any peculiar characteristics which 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 319 

should give rise to any lengthened remarks. The country 
was mostly level, and el rio de Almeria was most of the 
way confined to the trail ; though at times diverging from 
it, as the surface of the country seemed to direct its course. 
It had been dry for nearly eight months, and consequently, 
the river was low, and the country did not so generally 
present that interesting picture that it would have done, 
had it been in the rainy season. Such a trail, and in such 
a country, is truly lonely to a stranger ; moreover, 
especially, when night ushers in her sable mantle, one 
naturally feels an involuntary shudder thrill his veins, 
and cause his pulse to beat quickly. Prior to the departure 
from my encampment this night at twelve o'clock, I felt a 
fearful apprehension as to my own safety, with respect to 
proceeding further on the trail till day-light. However, 
the time came, and having duly prepared myself in the 
saddle for the occasion, and my servant being mounted, we 
carefully proceeded forward. 

From the rather shabby aspect of my servant, and his 
casual sang fr Old with reference to keeping ahead of me a 
few feet, I did not know but that he might be one of the 
notorious band of ladro7ies, who infest this trail, and thereby 
render it exceedingly dangerous to travelers having any 
means with them. Passing along with slight elevations on 
either side, sometimes close, then farther off, afterwards 
through a wooded district, and occasionally crossing a small 
stream which appeared to wend its way by the trail, I 
heard in the grim stillness of the night, with woodland all 
around me and with bare starlight, a yell on my left about 
one-quarter of a mile off; it was repeated several times 
immediately, and my servant answered it once apparently 
with a mixed emotion of surprise and pleasure ; in a mo- 
ment, I rode up to him, telling him in Spanish if he 
answered again to that or a similar yell, during the night, 



320 TRAVELS ON THE "WESTERN SLOPE 

and putting my revolver near his ear, I would shoot him 
instantly ; and that too, with such meaning in my expres- 
sion, that he took timely warning and obeyed my injunc- 
tion. The yell was continued for some time, apparently 
passing on a trail parallel to the one I was traveling. 

Ere long, we began to ascend a ridge which formed the 
divide between the valley and the littoral landscape, 
shelving towards the coast. Having surmounted the ridge, 
and passing along on a slow pace, my attention was arres- 
ted by another yell, and at the same time, I observed in a 
recess by the side of the trail, three crosses ! indicating this 
to have been the fatal spot where ladrone-\i\ie. deeds had 
been committed, and where the Catholic Church had 
reared wooden symbols of her faith. I grasped my revol- 
ver with renewed vigor and determination in self-defence ; 
though we passed on unmolested, yet I felt impressed with 
the conviction that my precaution in preventing further 
answers, after having heard the first yell, and seeing the 
character of my servant, had saved me from the like fate of 
those who lay buried beneath the crosses. 

From the knowledge I have been able to obtain, respect- 
ing the character of ladrones, by conversing with intelligent 
Mexicans, the object of this yell was to know who I was, 
how I was armed and accompanied, which I immediately 
discovered ; and also, that my servant desired to take the 
advantage of me, knowing that I was a foreigner, and per- 
haps, thinking me unacquainted with the S^mnish language 
so as to detect him. 

For some distance past, small forest trees and creeping 
vines, and also plants skirted our trail ; and one of the 
most useful of these plants was Jalap. The properties of 
this plant were known to the Aztecs. The plant is an 
herbaceous twining vine, having entire cordate or three to 
live lobed leaves, and large, wliite Howcrs with purple 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 321 

veins. The root, which is the part employed as a purga-» 
tive in medicine, is very large, sometimes weighing fifty 
pounds or more. 

Morning came, and it was beautiful ; for every now and 
then I passed small streams pouring into la Almeria, and 
on which and along their sides, I beheld the Indian and 
mixed settlements, cultivating their small patches of maize, 
plantains, cocoa-nut palms, a "few cacao trees, coffee trees, 
sugar-cane, cotton, rice, plum and orange trees, with their 
congenerics, and in fact, most of the productions and fruits 
common to this portion of Mexico ; but seemingly on a 
scale barely sufficient for home consumption. The forest 
seemed enlivened by the songs of the gay and feathered 
tribe, beautifully clad with various tints, yet the prevailing 
ones were a dark green and golden, peculiar to the sunny 
South. The soil is quick, fertile, and generous to conceive 
the labor of man ; and were it cultivated and cared for, 
even to a small extent, where famine occasionally prevails 
and all its consequences, a superabundance would invite all 
classes, in every portion of this most prolific country, to 
partake more largely of the bounties of the earth. 

Passing on, twelve leagues before reaching the port, I 
arrived at the lake or el logo de Cuyutlan, M'hich extends 
to within half a mile of the port of Manzanillo. It is sup- 
posed to be two miles wide, and twenty-five miles long ; 
and near its margin it is extremely marshy, and low, 
scrubby bushes abound. The water is brackish, and no 
doubt, this pond is fed by the ocean, being only a few feet 
above its surface. 

Near this small lake, the ground being low and so im- 
pregnated with saline properties seeking a lateral extension, 
that it becomes covered with a whitish incrustation, inter- 
mixed slightly with the soil. On the east and south side 
of this lake there are situated las Salinas de Cvyutlan 



322 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

'where, during the dry season, there is a population of five 
or six thousand individuals of both sexes, engaged in man- 
ufacturing salt, and attending to incidental business condu- 
cive to that end. Most of this population being desultory 
in their habitation, have paid no attention to the construc- 
tion of their transient homes, living in bamboo and palm 
houses of the most primitive design. In passing along the 
lake shore, whence I first touched it till my arrival at the 
villa de Cuyutlan, I am under the impression that it is ten 
miles distance ; and within every short space, that is, thirty 
or forty rods apart, I saw persons engaged in the process 
of making salt. 

This process is to clear off half an acre of the marsh 
smoothly ; and when the salty properties arise, they are 
scraped into heaps, here and there, over this surface ; after- 
wards, and near the center of this plot, small vats, six by 
ten feet in dimension, are formed by sinking them three or 
four inches below the surface of the ground, and then fill- 
ing them with salt water, which is obtained in this manner. 
Near the vats, a hole is dug out, ten feet in diameter by 
two feet deep ; and then, this, as also the vats, are plastered 
with mortar at the bottom and sides, so as to be water-tight ; 
afterwards, four crotched stakes are procured and driven 
into the ground permanently, and left above the surface 
seven feet high, and 12 feet apart each way; besides which, 
two heavy polls are laid crosswise of these stakes, and upon 
them, smaller ones are extended in the form of close joints. 
This done, sea grass and palm leaves are laid over this 
scaffold, on which common clay is deposited for the pur- 
pose of forming a ridge eighteen inches high and five feet 
in diameter, where the salt-earth in the heaps alluded to, 
is borne by ascending a short ladder. Then an operative 
takes a few buckets of water, and pouring it over this earth, 
it soon causes tlie s ilt water to filtrate into the basin below, 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 323 

Thus this operation goes on ; the earth being removed- 
when it is expected that its saline properties are quite 
exhausted. Then from the basin, the salt water is dipped 
out and poured into the vats for evaporation, which pro- 
ceeds rapidly, as the sun is nearly vertical, and intensely 
warm. After it is reduced to salt, which appears of a fair 
quality, though specks of dirt are frequently seen in it ; the 
operatives scrape it up, depositing it in heaps of various 
quantities. This salt was sold readily at five dollars per 
hundred pounds when I visited these works, and packed 
into the interior as far as Guadalajara, Morelia, and 
Durango. 

The road between las Salinas de Cuyutlan and the port, 
is mostly sandy, presenting comparatively nothing but a 
barren and dreary waste, bordering near the sea coast; 
however, there were a few trees of a stinted and thorny 
growth, some of which resemble somewhat the black 
locusts, yet having longer thorns. From las Salinas to the 
port, the distance is reputed to be ten leagues. In passing 
nearly two-thirds of the distance around lake Cuyutlan, 
those scrubby trees served greatly to parry off the inten- 
sity of the heat, occasioned by the reflection of the sun 
upon the water. This water is greenish, and impressed 
me with the conviction that it might produce sickness, yet 
it is said not to cause that effect. 

The road from Colima to the port, bearing more on the 
east and north sides of the lake, is more interesting, better 
watered, and better timbered, consisting of an abundance 
of palms, spreading over thousands of acres, and of other 
valuable forest trees. On this side there is also more cul- 
tivation, which extends itself towards San Bias and Tepic, 
through many beautifnl and fertile valleys, yet not tilled to 
the one-hundredth part of their productive capacities. 

Immediately around the port of Manzanillo, there is lit. 



324 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

tie tillage, except in maize for fodder, whicli is brought in 
and sold to those who are engaged in packing merchandise 
into the interior. The maize is sown broad-cast, so as to 
make the fodder grow fine, resembling coarse grass. 

The harbor presents a safe appearance, being surrounded 
by hills two hundred or three hundred feet high, and in the 
rear of which, with the exception of several tongues of 
land, there is a general series of small ponds of brackish 
and rather greenish water, communicating with that of the 
port. The entrance is near half a mile wide ; the water 
is reputed deep enough for any ordinary merchantman, or 
the largest ocean steamer on the coast ; the anchorage is 
tenable ; and the water for supplying vessels, is consid- 
ered good ; however it is obtained at considerable expense, 
being about five miles from the port, on the opposite side 
of the harbor, and from a small mountain stream. The 
'diameter of the harbor may be considered five miles ; and 
on the east and north sides of it, palms extensively abound. 
More than any other harbor on the Pacific coast of Mexico, 
except Acapulco, and Guaymas in the Gulf of California, 
the port of Manzanillo presents natural safeguards to mer- 
chantmen, which should not be passed over in silence in 
this work, as it is my object in these letters to throw open 
to the public consideration, all avenues of commerce and 
wealth that have fallen uuder my observations while trav- 
eling this year, 1856, on the Western Slope. Perhaps I 
may be indulged in saying that it is one of the finest of the 
]\Iexican ports ; however, but little is known about it or 
the natural resources in the rear and surrounding country, 
yet I have confidence in the belief, that what I have already 
written with reference to the products of the territory of 
Colima and of the State of Jalisco, will tend to draw mer- 
chandise and reciprocal commerce to this port. In the port 
there are a few Indian huts, constructed of crotclied stakes. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 325 

poles, and palm leaves ; also, a custom house office branch 
for a deputy and inspector of merchandise, together with 
the office of the Captain of the port, and that of the Alcalde. 
These several officers, with the exception of the custom 
house officer, carried in their aspects and facial contours so 
much insignificance, that I will forbear to mention their 
characteristics. 

In the port of Manzanillo there is begun an Artesian 
well by a Stock Company of Mexicans and Germans, living 
at Colima. The Company was formed in the fall of 1855, 
with a stock capital of seven thousand dollars, and the com- 
mencement took effect in the winter of 1856, by an Ameri- 
can Company from California, reputed to be skilled in that 
system. The progress of boring was slow, being mostly 
through a rock of primitive formation ; though, at times, 
coming in collision with shale. The operative Company 
formed for this undertaking was somewhat disappointed as 
to the formation of this region, supposing it to be more of 
a secondary formation, than the evidences thus far indicate, 
when coming in contact with the apparatus for boring. If 
this company of Americans should study their true interest, 
getting as they do thirty-five dollars a foot by eight inches 
in diameter, and being obliged to pay only one dollar per 
day with board for operatives, and advance this laudable 
undertaking to the extent desired by the Mexican Com- 
pany, endeavoring to keep their good will and confidence, 
the field for such undertakings would be almost endless, as 
well as profitable, throughout the Kepublic of Mexico. For, 
among the intelligent Mexicans, there is a strong manifes- 
tation in favor of the Artesian well system, with reference 
to obtaining water in many of the valleys, now generally 
too dry for agricultural purposes, throughout the seasons. 
With reference to Americans desiring to go to Mexico 
for the purpose of traveling and exploration, or of settling 



326 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

in the country, I cannot recommend too highly a rigid obser- 
vance of those rules of civility, courtesy, and morality, being 
extended, and observed towards all classes most scrupu- 
lously, so far as self-respect and true dignity of character 
will permit or dem.and. 

Promising you near the close of these many letters to 
present, for your better information, a concise recapitula- 
tion of my touric ground in Mexico, touching the historic, 
civil, and scientific field of the western slope of the Mexi- 
can Cordillera, it has now become my time to perform that 
service. 

From the period of its conquest, immediately succeeding 
the conquest of the capital of Anahuac — Tenochtitlan — yet 
in some portions of it somewhat later, numerous mines both 
of gold and silver, had been opened and most successfully 
worked in the departments or States of the present geo- 
graphical and political division of Western Mexico, consist- 
ing of Chihuahua, Sonora, Cinaloa, Jalisco, Durango, 
Michoacan, Guerrero, Oajaca, Chiapa, with the States of 
Zacatecas and Guanajuato, prior to the commencement of 
the Mexican revolution, 1810, which was headed by an 
active and spirited priest named Hidalgo. 

However some of these political divisions may have, since 
the revolution, undergone changes, yet the term "Western 
Slope of the Mexican Cordillera will embrace all the ter- 
ritory I have expressed a desire to touch upon, in these 
letters, except hurredly. Since the revolution began, these 
mines have greatly fallen off from their former yield under 
the Spanish sway, owing to various causes, still mostly, to 
home dissensions and the want of confidence in the govern- 
ment. Long before this, the spirit of insurrection was rife 
and nearly ripe in jSew Spain, to dislodge herself from the 
almost unparalleled usurpation of the mother country, tax- 
ing and appointing colonial olliccrs at her will and pleasure. 



OP THE MEXICAN COEDILLERA. 327 

This spirit was much more enhanced among the intelligent 
Creoles by extending their views to the Republic of the 
"United States, and seeing there freedom, prosperity, and 
happiness, exerting a combined and almost a supernatural 
influence upon the welfare of the body politic. A knowl- 
edge, with a desire to imitate, was rapidly spread over the 
fair plains of ancient Anahuac, and created a desire to be 
free, in the year alluded to ; and more especially, as the 
new Viceroy, Venegas, at that time, displayed an offensive 
partiality for the Spaniards, and exasperated the Creoles 
by the severity of his measures. These measures led, at 
this time, to the immediate resort to arms in assertion of 
natural rights, and to gain and maintain them by the sword, 
if necessary. 

As I have remarked, this incipient rising of a few intel-^ 
ligent Creoles, strongly imbued with Republican principles, 
was headed by a priest of liberal and enlarged notions, and 
of great firmness. At first, the insurrection was unsuccess- 
ful like most great efforts in producing the desired effect, 
and this good clergyman lost his life, dying a martyr to 
freedom ! Yet, it glowed on and increased, in the progress 
of events, like a snow ball on some hoary summit, when set 
in motion ; m'eeting with various success, from the inimical 
hatred existing between the native Spaniards and the Cre- 
oles ; the former like Englishmen, long before the American 
revolution, looked upon the latter with a supreme and frown- 
ing contempt, as having sprung from the forests of America, 
thereby as being a different species of the human family, 
unfit to rule, or to be shown equal rights or equal terms ; 
while the latter disdained to have their chains forged out 
of their own native metals, and on their own native soil, 
having them adjusted on their limbs by a foreign importa- 
tion of officers and soldiers, who had no direct interest in 
the country, but to speculate ever at the expense of the 
Colonists. 



328 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

In the year 1813, a Creole Congress was formed, com- 
posed of delegates from different departments, at Chilpan- 
zingo, in the month of September, that declared Mexico 
independent of Spain, breaking that filial allegiance and 
homage which had so long cemented them as one body- 
politic, and which a pure regard for natural rights could no 
longer endure. 

After the long period of twelve years, and meeting with 
a diversity of misfortunes and successes during this tran- 
sition of time, another Congress of Creole delegates assem- 
bled in the month of February, 1822, in order to settle the 
principles of a constitution ; and in most every essential 
requisite, it was based upon the broad grounds embraced in 
the constitution of the United States of America. After 
the lapse of two years, encountering many interruptions of 
a varied character, both foreign and domestic, it was adopted 
and proclaimed in the year 1824. The first Constitutional 
Congress convened January 1st, 1825, at the Capital, and 
held this year, in the month of August, an extraordinary 
session. 

It is said that the form of government of the Mexican 
Republic is the popular, representative, and federal, in the 
conception of its characteristics ; and that the general gov- 
ernment of the federation is divided into two branches, viz : 
that of a Chamber of Deputies, and that of Senators. The 
Deputies are chosen by the majority of qualified citizens to 
vote in each State and Territory, — one for every fifty thou- 
sand, or for a fraction not less than twenty-five thousand 
citizens. It is also requisite to have arrived at the age of 
twenty-five years, and to enjoy the ample exercise of citi- 
zenship, in order to hold this office. Tlie Chamber of 
Deputies is said to be wholly renewed every two years ; 
and that a Deputy shall holU no office of trust, while serv- 
ing in the National Congress, according to the Constitu- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 32^ 

tional Compact. Two Senators are elected in each State, 
by the majority of the citizens ; two in the Federal District, 
which includes the city of Mexico ; and an equal number 
with that of the States are elected, in turn, by the Senate, 
the Supreme Court, and the Chamber of Deputies ; which 
decides the election of such as do not obtain the votes of 
all three, but such as have been voted for by some one of 
them. And in order to be eligible to this office, it is neces- 
sary to have arrived at thirty years of age, and to be in the 
full exercise of the rights of citizenship ; also, it is further 
necessary to have held some office of high trust, no less than 
that of Superior Chief of the Treasury. This Chamber 
is one-third renewed every two years. In each Chamber, 
a quorum is formed by one more than half of the members. 
Senators, during the term of their office, shall hold no other 
positions of trust in the Republic at the same time. 

To be eligible to the office of President, it is necessary 
to be a native citizen, thirty-five years of age, and a resi- 
dent. The executive power of the Republic is invested in 
a President and four Secretaries chosen by himself for the 
dispatch of the four branches of the public administration, 
viz : Interior and Foreign Relations ; Justice and Ecclesi- 
astical Affairs ; Treasury ; War and Marine Concernments. 
These Secretaries must be native citizens ; the President 
is chosen for four years. 

The Judicial Power of the Republic resides in a Su- 
preme Court, three Circuit Courts, and those of the District. 
The Supreme Court is divided into three Halls, comprising, 
in all, eleven Ministers of Justice and one Fiscal. Besides 
these, for civil and criminal trials of the First Instance, 
there are Judges and Constitutional Alcaldes. To be eli- 
gible to the office of Supreme Judge, it is necessary to be 
learned in the law, a native citizen, and approved by the 
National Legislature. The State Judiciary are appointed 



330 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

by the respective Governors, and confirmed by their Legis- 
latures. 

The interior Government of the Mexican organized Ter- 
ritories resides in a pohtical Chief, dependent on the general, 
government of the nation ; in a Deputation elected by the 
citizens thereof ; and also, in the inferior Courts necessary 
for the administration of justice. And for this purpose, 
they are divided into districts, counties, or departamentos, 
or partidos, which are under the charge of prefects or sub- 
prefects, appointed by the Governors. 

In all towns of any importance, there are Ayuntamientos, 
charged with the police of safety and good order, having 
their jurisdiction extended over the neighboring villages 
and estates. 

The State Governments are divided into three powers, 
viz : the Legislative, Executive, and Judiciary. Every 
Mexican by birth or by naturalization, and twenty-one 
years of age, is a citizen of the Mexican United States, 
except guilty of some crime. Personal securities are granted 
by the constitution of the United States of Mexico, in the 
same manner as by that of the United States of America. 
The Mexican constitution declares that the national rehgion 
shall be the Catholic, Apostolic, or Roman. The clergy 
have their special legislation ; the army has its code, known 
as Ordenanza ; the armed force of Mexico is reputed to 
number nine thousand men ; although some say four times 
that number. The number of officers of the general gov- 
ernment amounts to two thousand, nine hundred and ninety, 
and of pensioners, to nine hundred and forty. The number 
of Ecclesiastics rises to three thousand two hundred and 
thirty ; of Convents of Monks, to one hundred and forty ; 
Convents of Nuns, to sixty ; and of Colleges of the Propa- 
ganda Fide, to eight ; while the monastaries contain one 
thousand, one hundred and forty monks ; the nunneries one 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 3Sl 

thousand, five hundred and forty professed nuns ; seven hun- 
dred and forty girls ; and eight hundred and eighty female 
servants. The annual revenues of the clergy from various 
taxation, amount to near ten millions of dollars. Hereto- 
fore, it has been extremely difficult to ascertain the amount 
of the estates of the clergy, from the fact they would evade 
the general registry law of the land office ; but under the 
sway of Comonfort, and in case of their estates not being 
registered at a certain time, the Law-Lerdo or the law of 
the twenty-fifth of June, 1856, or otherwise, the law for the 
sale of corporation properties, for it is known by all these 
names, has been the great work of this government, and 
already it has brought to light and life in the land, an ele- 
ment as strong as the one it combats. 

Since the period, 1825, to the present time, with scarcely 
a year's peace ; with laws unequally enforced, and as often 
evaded, when large amounts of money are at issue ; with a 
Congress and Clergy that tax almost the vital breath which 
the poorer classes inhale ; with no ambition to improve the 
country in any of the varied senses of that term, nor to 
advance themselves generally as a nation of sentient indi- 
viduals, in the arts and sciences, contributing thereby to 
national greatness ; with mines, forests, and soil, abounding 
in natural wealth, but with scarcely any desire to tax them- 
selves in the endeavor to superintend and cultivate all of 
these indigenous fields, in order to bear them the golden 
harvests, increasing their riches and individual standing ; 
with a government ever changing, and jealous of foreigners 
and capitalists, making, at times, large concessions and 
granting exclusive privileges, and at other times, annulling 
them as being injurious to the body politic, and ever watch- 
ful, in this last effort, to make these chartered companies 
forfeit what they had invested, thereby receiving the spoils 
of investments ; with a constitution and laws which draw 



332 TEATELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

no distinction between colors, thereby placing the untutored 
red man of the forests and the sons of Africa on equal terms 
with the fair descendants of the Castilian race, and thereby 
advancing these mixed castes at the expense of lessening 
themselves ; moreover, especially by intermarriages : what 
country, in view of all these national evils, misfortunes, 
misrule, anarchy in its worst form, duties and taxation upon 
what flows into the country, almost without a parallel in the 
annals of civilized nations ; embezzlements of public treas- 
ure under appointments to fill high stations ; systems of 
espionage both civil and ecclesiastical, enough to subvert 
the best constituted form of government, which man can 
conceive, and having had so many calamities at home, for 
so long a time ; filled with intestine foes, and surrounded 
by wily foreigners, could have survived so efiectually her 
volcanic throes, till now, except Mexico ? Notwithstanding, 
how has she survived ? how does she rank in the progress 
of the events of nations ? Who are her immortal states- 
men and patriots ? Who are her historians and annalists ? 
Who are her civilians, surgeons, physicians, merchants and 
mechanics ? What fields have her scholars and artists sur- 
veyed and brought to light ? and finally, how have her gen- 
erals and soldiers distinguished themselves, as if tactics and 
simple evolutions, constituted true courage ? 

If wisdom, prudence, sagacious management, and a spirit 
of reconciliation, be deeply implanted in the active, liberal 
and determined mind of President Comonfort, surrounding 
himself with discretion, integrity, and faithfulness in the 
discharge of trusts, and appointing to important stations, 
moreover especially, Custom Houses for the reception and 
inspection of foreign merchandise, such as have distinguished 
themselves by some known and acknowledged merit of their 
own acquirement ; — the Republic of Mexico may yet be a 
proud nation, by falling back to the primordial principles 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 333 

which embrace the contour of the constitution of the United 
States ; developing and improving her internal resources 
and natural positions ; establishing free toleration in religious 
matters, and the common school system throughout the coun- 
try ; and abnegating the colored races the right of suffrage, 
thereby excluding them from the wake of political influence 
and aspirants, but granting them ample protection in the 
security of their lives, conceded liberties, and property ; 
and in pursuance of these points she may cause her sons to 
be respected, among all foreign nations, not so much from 
their own worth, as from the greatness of the nation whose 
characteristics they represent. 

To establish peace, security and prosperity to the country, 
and to arrest and subdue that ladrone-like spirit so common 
in Mexico, should be among the first offices which a good 
and wise government peforms to her people, as tending to 
extend and increase her population in distant parts, away 
from the confines of towns and cities. 

When visiting the re<>ion of Tepic, in March, 1856, I 
was informed that a band of ladrones of more than five hun- 
dred strong, had assembled in that vicinity, committing 
devastations too generally upon property and individuals, 
appropriating their stores of provisions and other valuables, 
and even giving terms of peace to the city of Tepic, of more 
than twelve thousand inhabitants. 

So far as I was able to discover personally, and by con- 
versation with intelligent Mexicans, I should judge, from 
the configuration of this country, being, as it is, diversified 
by hills and dales, by mountains and gulches, and by con- 
tinuous ridges and deep ravines, that the Republic on the 
western slope of the Mexican Cordillera abounded quite 
generally in the precious metals ; and that there is mani^ 
fested a strong spirit with regard to working both the silver 
and gold mines embraced in these regions ; but the want of 



334 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

general confidence has, for many years, prevented capital- 
ists and industry from investing, to any great extent, their 
means in so tangible a form as to be susceptible of being 
taxed or attached by the government, when in straightened 
circumstances ; alleging that the prior administration had no 
constitutional power to concede such privileges, as are con- 
tained in the inducements which she frequently holds out to 
win the inexperienced. Those which are worked in Sonora, 
Cinaloa, Jalisco, Durango, Guanajauto, Zacatecas, Michoa- 
can, and Oajaca, seem, by the best reports I was able to 
derive information from in this respect, to be somewhat 
resuscitating from their past prostration and unproductive- 
ness, since the commencement of the Mexican revolution. 
From the most reliable information coming within my 
reach, the population of the Republic of Mexico is computed 
to embrace eight millions, while the classes of society are 
singularly varied, and known by distinctions more striking 
than those observable in other countries. Here are four 
more distinct, and almost more alien classes to each other, 
than as if they were a separate people, actuated by the 
strongest sentiments of national rivalry. These classes are 
native Spaniards, Creoles or Spaniards born in America, 
the mixed Castes, and Indians. The number of the first 
class is computed at eighty thousand ; that of the second 
at one million, five hundred thousand ; that of the third 
at two millions, five hundred thousand ; and that of the fourth 
at three millions, nine hundred and twenty thousand. The 
first class generally appear better informed, more industri- 
ous and more highly bred than the Creoles, and in all 
respects, except native questions, far more liberal ; and as 
merchants, active, enterprising and honorable ; and towards 
strangers, courteous and obliging ; and many of these 
remarks are not inapplicable to the Creoles, whom I should 
judge, notwithstanding, to be fonder of splendor and riding 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 335 

on fine horses richly comparisoned. In this respect, the 
mixed castes lag not far behind, inasmuch as they are able 
to imitate. The manners, habits, and customs of this peo- 
ple, I have already alluded to in my prior letters. 

In this Republic wealth is unevenly distributed ; conse- 
quently, education is little promoted, except, as it were, 
among a privileged few ; and even these, after having re- 
ceived a liberal education, seem to relapse into their old 
habits and customs with but seldom making an effort to distin- 
guish themselves by any patriotic or scholastic services to the 
promotion of the best interests of their own country. Com- 
merce is chilled by enormous high duties, and the middling 
and poorer classes are egregiously taxed and impoverished 
by this government system of chicanery; agriculture is 
fettered and made the tool of the government by the estab- 
lishment of las Garitas ; manufactures and mining are 
viewed with a jealous eye by those in power if in want of 
money ; and in this case, some new invention of taxation is 
frequently resorted to in order to effect this end, as the 
government is ever needy ; public improvements of what- 
soever nature and character, are kept far in the back ground 
of other countries ; and general education, even among the 
wealthy Creoles, is frowned down, as being not the sacred 
nucleus around which the sons and daughters of ancient 
Anahuac should now assemble to celebrate, in joyous fes- 
tivity, the birth of their national Independence ! 

The Indians resemble in their general features and ap- 
pearance, and in their facial contours, the aborigines found in 
other parts of America ; having copper color, flat and smooth 
hair, short beard, squat bodies, long eyes with the corners 
turning up towards the temples, prominent cheek bones, 
thick lips, and an expression of gentleness in the mouth, 
strongly contrasted with their gloomy and severe looks. 

The Gadsden Purchase, in the northern portion of the 



836 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Republic of Mexico, produced at the time of its transfer 
quite a sensation of discontent, especially among a class of 
politicians then opposed to the conceding administration, 
and also in the more northern States of the Republic ; how- 
ever, when I was at Mazatlan, that seemed to have died 
away in view of the anticipated protection being extended 
to them by an United States' settlement and military posts 
established on the line. This teri-itory is reputed to abound 
in rich mines of gold and silver ; and also of copper, worth 
eighty or ninety per cent., as represented to me by old Mex- 
icans who had, years ago, explored that region of country, 
with views solely bent on making discoveries of mineral 
wealth. These explorers alleged, as the causes of their dis- 
coveries not having been much worked up to the period of the 
purchase by the United States, the expense and the extreme 
difficulty of getting provisions, and also the deadly hostility 
of the Indian tribes, who roamed and swept over that coun- 
try, bidding defiance, except to the ramparts of military 
tactics. 

This Purchase is computed to embrace a geographical 
area of near forty thousand square miles, measuring from 
east to west four hundred and seventy miles, and on an av- 
erage eighty and a half miles from north to south. Much 
has been said with reference to the bad taste and policy of 
the United States government making and endorsing the 
Gadsden Purchase, and perhaps the amount paid for it may, 
to a casual observer, seem exti-^vagant. However, in the 
consummation of this national acquisition, there were two 
great and prominent objects in view. The first and para- 
mount, was to obtain through amicable offices and negotia- 
tions, a release from an obligation entered into at the 
confirmation of the Hidalgo treaty with Mexico, stipulating 
that the United States should protect the northern borders 
of this Republic from the inroads and depredations of the 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLEBA. 337 

Indian hordes living north of the boundary line. And the 
second was the acquirement of a territory which, viewed 
in every light and consideration, should, the seasons round, 
most promote the interest and commerce of the United 
States and the world at large ; presenting in the bleak 
months of winter, scarcely any obstacles to continuous trav- 
eling, without coming constantly in contact with heavy frosts 
and snow heaped upon heaps. 

No man's reason or motives, in view of a national Rail- 
road, should be so obtuse and selfish as to adopt a route 
which might carry with it the weighty objections of north- 
ern railroads in the winter season, compared to the percep- 
tible advantages of those constructed in the more southern 
portions of the American Union. For this great national 
route should have no fetters to bind or retard travel and 
commerce one moment of time, in the event of such an en- 
terprise being completed ; as Europe and Asia will look 
upon this thoroughfare in the light of that Golden Link 
which, like the heart to the human system, must constantly 
vibrate. 

This probable route, occupying intermediate points, is 
proposed to leave el Rio Grande at a place called Franklin, 
near a town, by the name of El Paso, and running west- 
wardly to a point called Colorado City. From a view of this 
route, both geographically and topographically, upon the 
best charts descriptive of this Purchase, and from my con- 
versation at Mazatlan with intelligent Mexicans and for- 
eigners respecting this proposed route, I discovered that 
after it leaves los Pasos of the Pinal and San Pedro moun- 
tains, there are two routes proposed, giving the inner sur- 
face the form of an ellipsis, and coming to a focus near 
Colorado City. The lower or more southern of these routes, 
seems to present a much straighter line, and with no more 
apparent obstacles to surmount in the construction of this 



338 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

national enterprise than in the upper one ; a few mountain 
ridges and spurs obstructing the champaign aspect of the 
country. However, through these, Passes have been dis- 
covered to form the level tract and lay the iron band. 

In the southern portion of the Purchase, there are ten 
small villages or towns, from which settlements radiate, 
graze and produce, though at the fearful hazard of Indian 
encroachments and spoilations. A few miles west of the 
center of the Purchase, there are situated two copper moun- 
tains called Sierra de Ajo, and La Montaila de Pajaro ; 
the former seventy-five and the latter fifty miles south of el 
Rio de Gila. Other portions of the Purchase are said to 
abound with this metal, equally as easy of transit and ship- 
ment as the localities alluded to. The rich ore of these 
mountains I have already mentioned, which, from the re- 
puted abundance of that metal, and the short distance that 
it becomes necessary to pack it, one would suppose might 
and will create an eminently remunerative field for the in- 
vestment of capital and industry, in order to accomplish 
their most desired ends. 

Conversing with H. S. Washburn, United States Deputy 
Surveyor, in the early part of April of this year, (1857,) 
with reference to the Gadsden Purchase, and also my pub- 
lication of a Work descriptive of Western Mexico, he 
informed me that he would look over his notes relative to 
that Purchase, and furnish me such material information 
from them, as might tend to throw light upon that region of 
country. The following embraces the promised sketch from 
his notes : 

"It was on the 2nd day of July, A. D., 1856, that I 
crossed the Rio Colorado, about one mile below the mouth 
of the Rio Gila, for the purpose of examining in person so 
much of that country, generally known under the title of 
* Gadsden Piircl ase,' a.s my limited time would permit. I 



OF THE MEXICAN CORIULLERA. 839 

took with me but one man and three mules. After crossing 
the Colorado, I took the road leading north, and soon found 
myself traveling eastward in the valley on the south side 
of the Gila. For the first fifteen miles, the alluvial portion 
of the valley on the south side of the river, is from one to 
six miles in width. At this point the river comes near 
•washing the foot hills on the south, which are rugged and 
barren. These hills are, however, soon passed, when the 
valley is found to expand to rather more than its previous 
width, and continues gradually to widen so far as I ascended 
it. At twenty-five miles, there has recently been discov- 
ered a rich copper mine, a short distance from the river. 
At sixty miles, the road leading to the Arizona copper mines 
leads off to the south. At ninety miles, lie bleaching among 
the rocks the bones of the Oatman family, killed by the 
Indians in the year 1850. At one hundred and ten miles, 
is the murderer's grave, concerning which there is a tale of 
something like half tragedy and half ' a la Vigilance,' 
which occurred in 1849. At one hundred and fifty miles, 
I came to the Maricopa villages ; ten miles further are the 
Pimo villages ; and twelve miles further, the road leaves 
the river and turns south towards Tucson. 

" So far, the soil of the first or alluvial bottoms of the 
Gila is, beyond all question, of extreme richness and fertil- 
ity, peculiarly adapted to the production of sugar cane, 
cotton, tobacco, and all our southern staples and fruits ; and 
I am of opinion that the coffee tree could be cultivated here 
advantageously ; but of this I am not certain. That por- 
tion of the Gila below the Maricopas, does not appear to 
be the home of many of the grasses ; but it is from no fault, 
or rather no want of a good soil. Weeds, bushes of vari- 
ous kinds, mezquit undergrowth, and, on the banks of the 
river, large cottonwoods, with willows, grow most exube- 
rantly. There is always some grass, but not enough to 



340 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

justify me in saying that it is a good stock country. The 
domestic grasses would no doubt do well. The river itself 
is about one hundred yards wide, with an average depth, 
at that time, of two feet, and abounds in fish of an excellent 
quality ; while in the valley there is plenty of deer, ante- 
lope, goats and quail, with not a habitation of either Indians 
or white men to disturb them, from Fort Yuma to the Ma- 
ricopa villages. Among the Indians, this is considered 
neutral ground ; nor do any but lawless marauders infringe 
upon or violate this neutrality. Thus it is that circum- 
stances have cleared the way for an early settlement of this 
valley. Think but for a moment of the vast amount of our 
great southern staples and other produce that this valley is 
capable of growing ; one hundred and fifty miles long by 
an average of three miles in width on the south side of the 
river, with as much more on the north side in New Mexico. 
This would give an area of nearly six hundred thousand 
acres of the first quality of tillable land, with every facility 
for irrigation when needed. The banks of the river are 
very low, and the water can be taken out in ditches at 
nearly every mile. 

"There are two rainy seasons — one in winter (light 
rains,) and one in summer (heavy showers through the 
months of June, July, August and September.) The cli- 
mate appears to be healthy, but the heat in summer is 
excessive. 

" The scenery is grand and attractive, and at the same 
time, forbidding. On either side of the valley, below the 
Maricopa villatres, rise high, ragged, broken, precipitous, 
rocky, volcanic mountains, that look as if they had but yes- 
terday ceased burning. Spread out between them is a val- 
ley, presenting ihe appearance of a magnificent lawn in all 
its verdure. The contrast is easier imagined than described. 

" We were well treated by the Maricopas and Pimos. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 841 

They raise corn, pumpkins, M^e&ms and melons in great 
abundance ; also cotton, from which they weave cloth and 
make their own clothinoj. With them ignorance is bliss. 
They have nothing, to all appearance, to disturb them, 
but are the embodiments of contentment — strangers to 
trouble and vice; they know nothing of the pangs and 
misery produced by hankering, craving and striving after 
the almighty dollar. Physically, they are tall, well formed, 
athletic, and active, but indolent. If our e very-day fault- 
finders, grumblers and chronic growlers at their hard lot 
would but pay these simple natives a visit, and apply the 
lesson, it would certainly pay them an hundred fold to take 
the journey. 

" The rains here are more frequent than below, and the 
elevation is already becoming quite evident from the tem- 
perature. The country is also becoming covered with an 
excellent quantity of grass. Above these villages, the Gila 
country to its sources is an excellent stock country. Near 
its sources are said to be extensive pineries, and if true, 
lumber can be easily brought down the river for building 
and other purposes. 

" After resting here two days, I turned south towards 
Tucson. At forty miles, I came to Pioache Peak, at the foot 
of which is a valley, or basin, where the water collects in 
ponds during the rainy season, thus refreshing the weary 
traveler and his faithful beast of burthen while on their 
lonely and tiresome journey to the before mentioned town. 
The soil of this valley is rich, and the grass excellent and 
abundant. Mezquit timber is plenty. The country hence 
to the river is rather undulating, with a soil of good 
appearance, but not producing any but occasional patches 
of mezquit, with an oasis of grass here and there presented 
to view. The Pioache mountain is the highest point of 
land for some distance around, and from its summit a most 



342 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

excellent view can be obtained. In nearly every direction 
are to be seen detached or isolated mountains, which at 
first lead one to the conclusion that this surrounding coun- 
try is very mountainous, but traveling further on he is soon 
disabused of this idea, by finding that these mountains 
occupy but a small portion of the country, the remainder 
being level or gently rolling. The Gadsdonian copper 
mine is located about twenty-five miles to the southeast 
of this point. The country from this place descends to the 
southward, but in other features, growth, etc., is much the 
same as that between the Pioache and the Gila for about 
twenty-five miles, when I was fairly in the valley of Tucson. 
Hence it is fifteen miles to the town, before arriving at 
which, I met a party of fifteen Americans endeavoring to 
intercept a band of Apaches en route for their homes, with 
una Cabalgada of stolen horses from Sonora. The expe- 
dition proved successful ; one hundred and eighty head of 
horses and mules were captured from the Indians. The 
victors and their booty were received by the citizens with 
manifestations of joy. As it is the custom in this country on 
such occurrences, the animals were declared a legal prize. 
After indulging in a general tumult of rejoicings, and receiv- 
ing the congratulations of many a fair Senorita, an efibrt 
was made to divide the spoils among those who had taken 
a hand in the expedition. In this they could not agree, so 
every man concluded to pitch in and help himself. The 
result was some got as many as fifteen while others got 
none. 

"This valley is very extensive, being twenty-five or thirty 
miles in width, east and west, and from seventy to eighty 
miles north and south. It is known in different places by 
difierent names, and connects on the northeast with the 
San Pedro Valley, and thence with that of the Gila. It 
also branches off on the southwest and connects with otiier 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 343 

valleys leading to Sonoita, and thence to the Gulf of Cal- 
ifornia. On the east and southeast it connects again with 
the San Pedro Valley, the Santa Cruz Valley, and others 
which lead either to the Rio Grande or the head waters of 
the San Ignacio, and los Rios Yaqui and Mayo in Sonora. A 
large portion of this valley possesses a soil of unsurpass- 
ing richness, but it is wanting in running streams of water. 
I am of opinion that artesian wells, when tried in this val- 
ley, will prove successful, and if so, of course must be of 
incalculable value. Tucson is situated on a small creek 
which runs but a short distance below the town and sinks 
in the sand. There are no other running streams near 
here but that are dry a portion of the year. The town has 
a population of near one thousand souls, mostly Sonorians. 
It is built of adobes and is in the usual dilapidated condition 
of other Mexican towns. Previous to the Purchase it was 
a military station or fort, and was the only point, except 
San Xavier, in the northern part of Sonora and not on the 
Rio Grande, that the Mexican army was able to hold 
against the attacks of Apaches. All other places, as Sopori, 
Arrivaca, Tubac, Calaboyas, Babacomori, Tumacacari, Los 
Alamos, and many other haciendas have been long since 
deserted. 

" There is a small church in the town of Tucson, built by 
a single individual, who expended his last dollar in its con- 
struction, as an ottering to his God for his providential 
delivery from the hands of the Apaches. There is a small 
grist mill, one mile outside of the town, which does a fair 
business. There are four or five stores doing a moderate 
trade. There are enough Americans to protect the place, 
and to form the nucleus of a flourishing settlement. Wheat, 
barley, and other cereals are sown in January and har- 
vested in May. As soon as the summer rains commence, 
usually about the middle of June, corn is planted on the 



344 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

same ground, and a good crop is raised in favorable loca- 
tions without irrigation, thus raising two crops a year upon 
the same ground. Cotton, sugar-cane, tobacco, and most 
of the fruits of the temperate climates do well. I saw here 
a specimen of virgin iron considerably larger and nearly of 
the form of a large anvil. It is said to be susceptible of 
being cut and wrought into any form desired, as it is. It 
was brought from a mountain of the same material, about 
forty miles distant. The mines and the Apaches are the 
chief topics of conversation. The former are looked upon 
as yet in embryo, but as a sure fortune to all as soon as 
they get strong enough to repel and punish the attacks of 
the latter. The Papago Indians appear to be quite numer- 
ous, raise the crops usual among Indians, and have some 
produce to sell ; and they also trade off considerable gold 
dust. They are peaceable and friendly. The climate in 
this valley is much more humid than that of California. 
I remained in Tucson about ten days ; nearly every day 
there were frequent showers of rain, intermingled with 
intervals of sunshine. Vegetation is consequently very 
rank, aside from which there are no local causes to induce 
fevers. The climate is, I think, salubrious, and the tem- 
perature much lower than in the valley of the Gila. The 
principal rains are in summer. The grass and other veg- 
etation are green nearly nine months in the year — nearly 
twice as long as in the State of Calii"ornia. 

"Leaving Tucson and continuing up the valley nine miles, 
I came to the Mission of San Xavier. This Mission was 
built in a very early day by the Spanish Government, at 
an expense of $33,300, under the direction of the Jesuits. 
The original cost was afterwards entirely refunded by these 
Jesuits, in produce, principally wheat, raised by the labor 
of the Indians. At one time the annual production of 
wheat alone was ten thousand fanegas, or twenty-five thou- 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 345 

sand bushels. The Mission building, or Cathedral, is built 
entirely of brick and appears of the usual style and size 
as those in California, at Santa Barbara, San Gabriel and 
San Louis Rey. In the interior of the Mission the images 
and paintings are, as well as the whole building, in a won- 
derful state of preservation, but the outside buildings have 
very much fallen into decay. There was only one family 
(Sefior Castro's) living at this place. They were in con- 
stant fear from the Apaches ; every day expecting that that 
one would be their last. The fertility of this valley is 
unsurpassed, whether it be for arable or stock raising pur- 
poses. Thirty miles south are some fine pineries with good 
mill sites, and plenty of water. The lands are believed to 
be principally public. What more desirable locality can 
the emigrant reasonably expect ? 

" From San Xavier to Sopori it is thirty miles ; still in 
the same valley, or rather a tributary valley to the one in 
which are Tucson and San Xavier. It was on this road, 
about two weeks previous, that the Apaches surprised four 
men and murdered them for blood alone, as they were found 
without even a garment being taken from their bodies. 
The soil is everywhere rich, producing a luxuriant growth 
of grass, and in many places a heavy growth of mezquit 
timber, which is also loaded with beans, of which cattle 
and horses are as fond as of barley or corn. This fruit 
is called mezquit beans from its resemblance to the field 
bean in the pod, and is by many considered as valuable for 
stock as grain. A Col. Douglass, in connection with W. 

B. Roads and Dodson, have taken up this rancho, 

(Sopori,) and intend holding it by pre-emption. There 
can be no better country for stock, while there is also 
plenty of good tillable land. They have here a silver mine 
which they are working with sanguine anticipations of its 
ultimately yielding them a fortune. 



346 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

" To ffive some idea of the character of this mine, which 
may or may not be a fair sample of the hundred other 
mhies that have been abandoned in the Gadsden Purchase, 
I will here give an extract from a letter received this date 
from my worthy friend and acquaintance, Wm. B. Roads, 
Esq., formerly of Stockton, California, and known to many 
of the citizens of this place. His letter is dated Decem- 
ber 30th, 1856, and reads thus ; 

" ' At last, about six weeks since, the troops arrived under 
command of Major Stein. Tucson he did not think a 
proper place for encampment, and so he went to Calabazas 
rancho, to the great disappointment of all the Tucson fel- 
lows, the most of whom have gone to Tubac to take up 
land for raising a crop for the next year. Provisions are 
very high. Wheat is worth two dollars and fifty cents per 
bushel ; corn and barley, five cents per pound ; potatos, 
ten cents per pound, and not to be had at that, even for 
seed. From all appearances, all kinds of produce will keep 
up to present prices for more than a year to come. Store 
goods are sold at the California prices of 1849. Cattle are 
very high, and will be worth more here than at any place 
in the west. Most of the old ranchos are destroyed by the 
Indians, but if those in command of the troops here do as 
they say they will, we will soon be rid of these plagues — 
then will be the time to take up land in this country. There 
are some old Spanish titles which will doubtless hold good, 
and there are also Mexican titles or grants for nearly every 
foot of the remaining fertile portion of the Purchase, which 
are regarded as counterfeit and given by illegal authorities, 
and will not hold. It seems that the officers of this com- 
mand have commenced to speculate in real estate. 

" ' About mining we have good prospects before us. 
Scarcely a week passes but what we hear of some new dis- 
covery, and still there are very few prospecting. Next 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 347 

year we will see many a mine worked to advantage, and 
on a more substantial basis than the placer diggings of 
California ever have, or ever can be worked. Col. Dong- 
lass, Dodson and myself are now at the Sopori rancho, 
working a silver mine, only one mile from water and tim- 
ber, (the same as we were preparing to work when you 
were down here,) containing metal in abundance, which 
yields as it comes from the vein, when worked with quick- 
silver, ten marks, or eighty dollars to the three hundred 
pounds. Gold is scattered all through the vein. Besides 
us there are two other mining companies. One at Tubac 
and one at San Xavier, both of them seem to be satisfied 
with their mines. 

" ' Not long since the Indians made their appearance 
again, but we hope the almighty arm of the United States 
will protect us from these thieving scoundrels. Come out 
here and see how things look now. You would not leave 
here without making one or another good speculation. 

"*WM.B. ROADS.' 

" Fifteen miles further I came to the Arrivaca Rancho 
(deserted.) Nature here certainly strained every energy 
and device to make a paradise on earth, or rather a place 
for a paradise ; for a more lovely, enchantiug spot I never 
saw. No description can convey any idea of its beauty, or 
of its rare and unsurpassed advantages for farming and 
stock raising purposes. The elevation is such as to render 
the climate as charming and desirable as the other qualities 
just described. It is covered by a Spanish grant for three 
square leagues, said to be genuine. There is an old, 
deserted silver mine near by. 

" Passing from Arrivaca, I turned more to the south, and 
leaving the valley I entered rolling hills. At ten miles, I 
came to the Sonora line, and at twenty miles further I came 



348 TRAVELS ON THE "WESTERN SLOPE 

to the Busini Rancho, also deserted, and this is another 
specimen of nature's efforts at perfection. I saw this day 
the first wild turkey since I have been on the Pacific coast. 
Deer and antelope are very numerous. Fifteen miles to 
the north-east is the Agua Caliente silver mine, where the 
famous * planchas de la plata ' were found upon the surface 
of the ground, one of which brought over seven hundred 
dollars. 

" Leavinoj the Busini Rancho. a mile or two brought me 
to the Agua Caliente creek, down which stream I continued 
to Tubatama, a distance of thirty miles, and the first habit- 
able place I had seen since leaving San Xavier. To this 
place the valley of the Agua Caliente is generally narrow, 
well timbered, and very fertile. The back country is 
broken and rolling, but generally well adapted to the rais- 
ing of stock. Tubatama contains a population of about six 
hundred inhabitants. They are hospitable, but with one 
or two exceptions miserably poor. Although the soil when 
cultivated, produces most generously of everything from 
sugar-cane down to a radish, they barely raise a sufficiency 
to subsist upon. A more indolent, timid, miserably useless 
race of beings I never met with. There was not a pound 
of meat in the place, and most thankfully did they receive 
from me a present of venison ham, killed that day upon the 
road. At this point the valley becomes much broader, and 
the surrounding country less broken. 

" Continuing down the same valley, I came to Altar, a 
distance of thirty miles. It is situated near the junction of 
the Agua Caliente and San Ignacio rivers. In this distance 
of thirty miles I passed many settlements. The valley 
continues fertile and everywhere rewards richly the labors 
of the husbandman. Altar is a town of some importance, 
and has been the centre of a considerable trade. It is built 
of adobes, and some of the buildings present a neat appear- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 349 

ance, but decay is much more frequently reflected from 
everything in the shape of a tenement. Here comes the 
inquiry, wherefore is all this decay and ruin, this indolence 
and want of energy to develope a country unsurpassed in 
climate and natural resources, unless it be to hasten for- 
ward the day when the stars and stripes shall float over 
these crumbling walls, and infuse into everything under 
its folds the same spirit of progress and reform and civili- 
zation that has ever fallen from its presence ? Nature, civ- 
ilization and humanity to that helpless and effeminate race, 
all speak in unmistakable signs for such a result. Why 
should our Government longer stay behind herself? The 
town has a population of about six thousand ; generally, 
miserably poor and indolent, but withal, as it is usual for 
them under any circumstances — very contented. Their 
wants are few and easily satisfied. They instinctively see 
their fate, and quietly submit with resignation. The climate 
is delightful; many of the tropical products and fruits 
flourish. I was very hospitably and kindly entertained 
during my stay of two days. 

" Time now admonished me that I must set my course 
homeward, and taking the most direct route in a north-west 
course, I came the first day only to the Laguna Rancho, a 
distance of twelve miles, passing through a level country 
with rich soil and a good growth of grass, with but little 
water, which continues nearly to Sonio, a town sixty miles 
distant from Altar. Sonio is a small mining town, situated 
near the line between the Purchase and Sonora, in the lat- 
ter, and has a population approaching two or three hundred 
inhabitants. They are the most industrious community I 
have seen, and prosecute their mining operations in their 
rude way with considerable energy. Gold is the principal 
mineral sought, but several very rich specimens of silver 



350 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

were shown to me, and the owner of the mine of which some 
of these specimens were representatives, would sell an in- 
terest for sixty thousand dollars. Judging from the specimens 
shown me, it must be a very rich mine. Agriculture is 
here entirely neglected. The country has already become 
more rugged, with a poorer soil than heretofore. Water is 
also scarce. I was drenched with rain on the evening of 
my arrival (Aug. 2d,) in a severe thunder-shower. The 
same hospitality was extended me here as usual among 
the Sonorians. 

" Leavins: Sonio, the road follows but a short distance to 
the left, and nearly in the same direction as the boundary 
line between the Purchase and Sonora, to Zonoita, a small 
town of two hundred inhabitants, sixty miles distant from 
Sanio. The country is generally rolling, or sometimes, 
quite broken, and destitute of water, but in many places 
has the appearance of a good soil. There is a fine running 
stream here, but the first water reached in approaching the 
village are some ponds of alkali, strong enough to kill stock 
if suffered to drink much of it. Zonoita derives its impor- 
tance chiefly from its proximity to the Arizona copper 
mines, forty miles distant, in a north-east direction. There 
is considerable intercourse and trade between the denizens 
of the former and the agents and laborers of the latter. 

" I am not able to give you a just and accurate descrip- 
tion of these mines, and I will only say that the ore is rich 
(from forty to ninety per cent, pure metal,) and inexhaust- 
ible. It is fifty-six miles by land fri)m the mines to the 
Gila, whence it may be shipped in flat-boats to Fort Yuma, 
or the Gulf, and thence direct to any market in the world. 
Sixty per cent, ore is worth three hundred and eighty 
dollars per ton. From this data the curious can work out 
their own figures. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 351 

" Zonoita and its vicinity are well watered, and since the 
opening of the Arizona mines by the present company, 
have been allowed by the Apaches to prosper. The conse- 
quence is that the earth is made to yield her annual har- 
vests of corn, wheat, etc., etc., while horses, cattle, sheep, 
etc., are allowed to gladden the hearts of their owners, and 
to multiply and increase in comparative security. 

"From this place to Fort Yuma it is one hundred and fifty 
miles, with permanent water only the first fifteen miles. 
The remaining one hundred and thirty-five miles is fre- 
quently without a drop of water via the Tinaja Alta route. 
One season as many as thirteen persons perished in 
attempting to make this journey. The country is uninhab- 
ited, and in many places destitute of grass. There is 
nothing on this route to describe, unless it be the Tinjas 
Altas (high tanks.) These tanks are at a distance of sixty 
miles from Fort Yuma, and are a series of natural tanks, 
worn out in the rocks by the water descending from a high 
table-land, down a steep bluff of granite rock of full three 
hundred feet on to the plain below. In this descent the 
water has washed out, or there are formed in the rocks, 
nine successive tiinks, one above the other, which in the 
rainy season fill with water that either evaporates or is 
drunk by wild animals, or the stock passing to and from 
the river. The lower tank only is accessible for any of 
our domestic animals, and when exhausted, the water has 
to be passed down in buckets from the tanks above. This 
operation is both slow and dangerous. One person whom 
I know, was thus crippled for life. Hence to Fort Yuma 
the road passes ovor a level country without another drop 
of water." 

The mezquit beans are ground into flour by the native 
Indians, which has a sickish sweetness. The fruit of the 
petahaya resembles the pulp of figs, and has something of 



352 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

the same taste mingled with that of raspberry. Of that 
fruit the Indians manufacture molasses. 
Adios, 

Seilor, 
Agricola. 

CiNCINNATUS. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 353 



LETTER L. 

Productions varying in Mexico as tiie Altitude varies — Indigenous Productions- 
Bamboos in Vera Paz- Ancient Euins north of the Gila mentioned by Garces-Ku- 
ins of the Casas Grandes, on the Gila-Pimo Gold— Arispe in Sonora— Its import- 
ance-Silver Mine near Alamos, also in the State of Sonora-Fort Yuma-Bottom 
Lands of the Colorado River, below the junction with the Gila— Old Mission 
Buildings-Gulf of California explored by Alarchon in 1540-Salinas Eiver, North 
Branch of the Gila-Ruins near-Pimos noted for Agriculture-Bottom Lands on 
the Gila, near Las Casas Grandes— Description of these Houses— Their Origin- 
Tucson, its Productions and Fruits-Irrigating Canals- View of the Country from 
Guadalupe Pass— Natural History of the Gadsden Purchase— Practicability of a 
Kailroad through the Purchase— States of the Mexican Federation Embraced in 
this Work— Inducements in these— "What this Portion of Mexico Needs— Em- 
blazoning the Escutcheon of the Nation— Her Patriot— Number of Mines For- 
merly Worked— Regions where they now Exist— Annual Product of all the 
Mines in Mexicc—Quicksilver— Primitive Rocks abounding in Gold Vein,?— Su 
perstructure of Porpheries containing rich Deposits of Gold— Deposits of Rock 
Salt in Oajaca— Geographical Recapitulation of the Western Portion of Mexico 
First, Lower California — General Description of— Second, Sonora— Description 
of— Guaymas, and its Destination— Its Harbor— Its Rainy Season — The Yaqui and 
Maj'o Country — Productions — Railroad Route from El Paso to Guaymas— Heal- 
thy and Sickly Seasons-Its population-The Topographical Form of the Railroad 
Route — Ures- -Houses — Legislative Hall — Architecture— Bottom Land of El 
Rio de Sonora— Its Extent— Hacienda of Don Gandera at Tapahui— Its Produc- 
tions — Hermosillo — Its Valley — Its Population — Its Climate — Rivers, Sonora 
and San Miguel— Style of Architecture— Court Yards— The Alameda— Produc- 
tions of the Hermosillo Valley— Its Fruits— Its Wine and Brandy— Its adapta- 
bility to the Culture of Fruits — The production of Wheat in the Central and 
Northern Portion of Sonora— Third, Cinaloa— Description of— Fourth, Jalisco- 
Description of— Lake Chapala— Fifth, Territory of Colima— Description of— 
Sixth, Michoacan — Descriptien of — Seventh, Guerrero — Description of— El 
Puerto de Acapulco— Eighth, Oajaca— Description of— Ruins near Mitla— Ninth, 
Chiapa— Description of— Ruins of Palenque— Tenth, Chihuahua— Description of 
—Casas Grandes, on Las Casas Grandes River— Their Appearance— Their Anti- 
quity—Their resembling those Houses in Ruins on the Gila River— Eleventh, 
Durango— Description of— Twelfth, Zacatecas— Description of-Thirteenth, Gau- 
najuato— Description of. 

Amigo Mio : — With reference to a miscellaneous ret- 
rospection of the capabilities and productions of Mexico, 1 



854 TRAVELS ON THE WESTEKN SLOPE 

may here be permitted to mention her varied climate. The 
palm tribe abound as high as twelve thousand feet above 
the level of the sea ; and on the confines of the temperate 
and torrid zones are cultivated the sugar cane, cotton, indi- 
go, and cacao plants, at an elevation of eighteen hundred 
or twenty-four hundred feet. However, the sugar cane is 
successfully grown as high as six thousand feet in the val- 
leys. The banana tree extends from the shores of the sea, 
to an elevation of four thousand, three hundred and fifty 
feet ; while the temperate region from twelve hundred to 
six thousand, six hundred feet of elevation, presents the 
liquid amber styrax, and the laurel of Cervantes ; and be- 
sides these, many other varieties of similar constitutional 
plants and trees. There are four varieties of Mexican 
oak, which commence at an elevation of twenty-eight hun- 
dred and twenty feet, and generally end at six hundred and 
twenty ; and here may be seen the mountain yew, and the 
corrit^ated angular Banistcria. In an elevation of six 
thousand feet, and from this to fourteen thousand, one meets 
with the thick stemmed oak, the Mexican rose, the elder, 
the Mexican strawberry, the Datura superba, cardinal sage, 
the dwarf Potentilla, and the wonderful Cheirostemon pla- 
tanoides. The pines, which commence in the temperate 
zone at an elevation of five thousand seven hundred feet, 
do not disappear till they reach the cold of twelve thousand 
feet. Mahis, the native name for maize, succeeds on the 
sea coast, and in the valleys of the Tolucca, at an eleva- 
tion of eight thousand four hundred feet above the sea. 
Its production is commonly in the proportion of one hun- 
dred and fifty to one. It forms the principal nourishmtmt 
both for man and animals. 

Wheat, barley and the other grains of Europe, are cul- 
tivated to no extent, except on the plain which is situated 
in the temperate zone. Mexico produces indigenous spe- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 355 

cies of cherry, apple, walnut, mulberry, and silk wot ms. 
Bamboo is said to be grown in Vera Paz to the height of 
one hundred feet, and between the joints to be capable of 
holding twenty-five pounds of water ; and no good reason 
can be adduced from this position, that the same will not 
grow equally as well in the territory of Tehuantepec, being 
in the same latitude and a difference of nearly four degrees 
of longitude. 

It is a matter of history with the early fathers who trav- 
eled in Anahuac after its conquest, to have noted the remains 
of past ages in Indian towns and fortifications. And in 
view of this, the Father Garces found, in the country of 
the Moquis tribe on the Yaquesilia, a branch of the Color- 
ado river, a town regularly built, containing houses of sev- 
eral stories, and large public squares. More to the south, 
on el Rio Gila, the same missionary discovered ruins of a 
kind of strong castle, with its sides arranged to the four 
cardinal points. The Indians who live in the vicinity of 
these ruins, inhabit populous villages and cultivate maize, 
cotton and calabash. These traces of ancient civilization, 
correspond with the traditions of the Mexicans, who affirm 
that their ancestors repeatedly halted in these regions after 
leaving the country of Aztlan. Their first station was on 
the banks of the lake Tequayo ; their second station on 
the Gila river ; their third in New Biscay, near the presi- 
dio of Yanos, where there are likewise the ruins of build- 
ings, called by the Spaniards casas grandes. 

The country of the Pimos, according to early writers, 
abounds in gold. This tribe was reduced to subjection and 
civilization by the Missionaries, but the Seris tribe (an 
Asiatic name) resisted their influence, Arispe in the State 
of Sonora, is a town of considerable importance, having a 
population of near ten thousand. Near Alamos, in the 
lower part of the State of Sonora, there is one among the 



356 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

richest silver mines of the Republic, which is in the vicin- 
ity of el Rio Mayo, and about sixty miles from the Gulf of 
California. Fort Yuma is situated on the west side of the 
Colorado river, at the junction of this and the Gila river. 
It is now a military station for the United States troops, 
and is the contemplated terminus on the Colorado for the 
southern railroad coming to the several parts of California, 
San Diego and San Francisco. Rocky hills extend four 
or five hundred yards north of the junction, and between 
two and three miles south of it. 

The bottom lands of the Colorado river below the junc- 
tion, present characteristics of former cultivation, as canals 
or acequias are seen in many places. Of what age this 
may have been inhabited and thus cultivated, there is no 
record in history ; perhaps, anterior to the coming of the 
Spaniards to the Western Continent. 

Near Fort Yuma are seen the crumbling fragments of 
the old Mission buildings, erected by the early and pious 
Fathers to this Pagan land. As early as the year 1540, 
Fernando Alarchon, in a voyage to explore the Gulf of 
California by order of Antonio de Mendoca, Viceroy of 
New Spain, discovered the mouth of the Colorado river, 
which he then entered. The Salinas river, a northern 
branch of the Gila, abounds in cotton lands, and near it 
there are the ruins of architectural designs belonging to an 
age far in the past ; though the tradition of the Indian 
tribes in this region, maintain that these, as well as the 
ruins above the Pimo villages, are the " houses of Monte- 
zuma." For Indians, the Pimos are quite noted for agri- 
cultural and grazing pursuits. They produce wheat, corn, 
beans, pumpkins, squashes, mezquit beans, and (their sub- 
stitute for sugar) the fruit of the '• petahaya." 

The region of the Gila, not distant from the Salinas, and 
Rio Verde, a branch of the latter river, presents many for- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 857 

lorn pictures of departed ages, when it received the will 
and enterprise of a people far in advance of the different 
Indian tribes who presently inhabit the rich savannahs bor- 
dering on these streams. The bottom land of the Gila near 
Casas Gi andes, or Great Houses, is about a mile wide and 
is thickly covered with mezquit trees from twelve to twenty 
feet high ; and among which on the plain, the tall and 
graceful " petahaya," occasionally thrusts forth its thorny 
arms, like so many giant candelabra. These Houses com- 
prise three buildings within a space of one hundred and 
fifty yards. 

The larger one is in the best state of preservation ; its 
four exterior walls and most of the inner ones remaining. 
The central portion or towers seems to be at least ten feet 
higher than the outer walls, as it rises from the foundation. 
The walls are composed of adobes made of mud or clay, 
and are four or five feet thick. From the present appear- 
ance, the inside walls were plastered with a hard finish, 
while the outside presents itself rather roughly. The 
inside surface has quite a polish, being composed from its 
aspect, of Mexican cement. 

This building must have been, from the evidences which 
one beholds about it, at least four stories high. Doors 
connect most of the apartments ; and besides, there are cir- 
cular openings in the upper part of the chambers to admit 
air and light. The peculiarity, incident to the doors and 
windows or apertures for light, prevailing in the remains 
of ancient buildings in Central America, evinces itself with 
reference to the construction of las " casas grandes," near 
the Gila ; and from analogy of reasoning, one might arrive 
at the same conclusion as to the settlement of each portion 
of the country by a people much alike and of one kindred 
origin. The erection of these monuments to have perpet- 
uated a past age is shrouded in mystery ; and as they now 



858 TRAYELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

appear, they were discovered by the first explorers of this 
region of country, who were informed by the Indians that 
they had been constructed five hundred years before. 

Tucson nearly in the central portion of the Gadsden 
Purchase, is a town referred to by the early missionaries 
which was then, as now, a garrison. It stands on the pla- 
teau adjoining the fertile valley watered by the Santa Cruz 
River, a small stream which rises ten miles north-east of 
the town of Santa Cruz, whence it flows south to that 
place. Besides the cereals of the temperate zone, grapes, 
peaches, pears and apples are hei-e cultivated. The bottom- 
lands are here nearly one mile in width, and are remark- 
ably productive. Through them run irrigating canals in 
every direction, the demarcations^of which"are visible by 
the rows of cotton-woods and willows, which add a charm 
to the surrounding scenery. A view of the country from 
the height of Guadalupe Pass in the Gadsden Purchase 
is truly magnificent. Casting the eye around, one beholds 
the whole Pass with its defiles and mountains, its forests of 
oaks and pines, its deep gorges and grassy valleys ; while 
in the center one sees presented a huge pile of rocks of a 
light green and whitish colors, which presents a pleasing 
contrast with the rich hue of the foliage around. 

The natural history of the Gadsden Purchase presents 
its peculiarities in the mountains and along the streams, 
w^here forest trees and shrubbery abound. There one 
beholds the leopard, cougar, ocelot, lynx, panther ; brown, 
black and grizzly bears ; the fox, antelope, and various 
kinds of deer ; the large wolf, the coyote, raccoon, skunk, 
marmot, weasel ; a variety of moles, rats and mice, which 
live in the ground ; and hares, rabbits, squirrels, and 
Rocky Mountain sheep, as well as the beaver. 

There are also many species of reptiles which are con- 
sidered poisonous ; as the horrid tarantula, which lives in 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. S59 

the ground, covering its entrance with a trap-door ; scor- 
pions of different kinds, a black variety of which being 
remarkably fatal in its sting; centipede, venagron, and 
alacran, very poisonous reptiles ; and also the rattle-snake. 
The prairie dog abounds here on the plains and high table 
lands. The color of this animal is that of a light brown, 
and the lower part of its body, with its face and neck, is of 
a whitish yellow. 

Of the practicability of a railroad I have already men- 
tioned in a portion of this letter, from near El Paso of el 
rio Grande through the defiles of the Penal and San Pedro 
mountain ranges westwardly. These are local names for 
la Sierra Madre which pervades the Mexican Republic gen- 
erally from the southeast to the northwest. The entire 
route from El Paso on the rio Grande to Colorado City 
presents no insurmountable obstacle. Here the river Colo- 
rado can be easily bridged, for it is only six hundred feet 
wide. From El Paso to Fort Yuma, I have already shown 
the practicability of a railroad ; the other portions of it con- 
necting the Atlantic States and the State of California, I 
will leave for different sections to regulate and, by conced- 
ing, concentrate their whole force against their formidable 
barrier in the rock of ages, la Sierra Nevada. 

In the Mexican Confederation, the Department of Lower 
California, and the States of Sonora, Cinaloa, Guadalajara 
or Jalisco, -the territory of Colima, the States of Valla- 
dolid or Michoacan, Guerrero, Oajaca, the territory of Te- 
liuantepec, and the State of Chiapa ; and nearly in the rear 
of the firstthreeofthese, the States of Chihuahua, Durango, 
Zacatecas, and Guanajuato, occupy my description of the 
Western Slope of this Republic ; though having taken the 
main route of traveling in this region of the country, which 
I have the more minutely touched upon. Yet in doing this, 
I was often led aside from the principal road^ to feast my 



360 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

mind in beholding new objects, or in intelligent conversation, 
or to afford my reason a more ample scope to penetrate 
under the dark veil of the natural wealth abounding in 
these regions, or of Mexican Anarchy. Few of these 
States there are, which would not open to an industrious, 
well governed, and intelligent people, a far more magnifi- 
cent field to operate in, than even the great State of Cali- 
fornia, either with respect to mineral resources, or grazing 
and agricultural wealth, yet to be developed. 

This portion of Mexico wants the people, possessing the 
industry, enterprise and intelhgence, so commonly visible 
in the Republic of the United States, in order to develop 
those latent properties of the earth, which a Wise Provi- 
dence has laid up in store, to be measured out as great 
occasions and a great people, may seem to require. The 
soil, the forests, in dales, or on mountains, and the inner 
depths of those regions, essentially combine, to a great 
extent, all those natural elements, which, if sought after and 
eked out by capital well directed through sagacity and 
prudence, and under well organized and well administered 
government, would most eminently emblazon the fair 
escutcheon of national fame, causing the flag of this Repub- 
lic to wave proudly on every ocean, and her embassadors to 
be deferently heard at every foreign court. "Whereas, how 
is the case with Mexico? Is her fate among nations not 
nearly sealed ? Shedding her last tears in the cause of 
patriotic liberty, her joa^rio^ has risen to wash her from her 
stains, and fit her for the passage / Comonfort ! 

While traveling in Mexico this year, 1856, the best in- 
formation I was able to obtain as to the mines, was that the 
number of them both silver and gold rose formerly to three 
thousand ; but that, owing to the incessant revolutions, a 
very few out of this number are now worked. The regions, 
containing those which I have now in mind, include Sonora, 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 361 

Cinaloa, Jalisco, Oajaca, Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Burango, 
and Chihuahua ; however, the amount of each annual yield 
of the precious metals, falls at present far short of the sum 
usually procured, when under Spanish dominion. In the 
city of Guadalajara, I was told that Sombrerete in Zacate- 
cas, and Hostotipaguillo in the State of Jalisco, seemed to 
be paying as well as the Companies could reasonably ex- 
pect, undei' the present circumstances, with respect to the 
revolutionary condition of the country. It is reported by 
good authority that the annual product of all the mines of 
Mexico, including the different metals, varies not much 
from twenty-six millions. 

Within the bounds of the different States, there are many 
sources of copper, lead, iron and quicksilver. This metal 
abounds in some twenty-five different sources or mines, and 
its consumption is more than equal to the amount produced ; 
a large demand being annually made upon the Almaden 
mines near San Jose, State of California. In conversing 
with intelligent Mexicans upon subjects connected with 
mining pursuits, I discovered that, in many of the primi- 
tive rocks, abounding in various regions of Mexico, there 
are found auriferous veins, as in those of the State of Oa- 
jaca ; for here the granite breaks through the secondary or 
superincumbent formation of rocks, capping the summits of 
its mountain ranges. Gneiss, mica-slate, and syenite, ex- 
tending from the central ridges to either coast, bear the 
same golden veins. Also, I discovered that the table-lands 
of much of this Republic indicate nothing more than super- 
structures of porpheries, embosoming, in an eminent degree, 
those rich deposits of precious metals, which have, since its 
discovery and conquest, so much distinguished this portion 
of America. And as accompaniments to these porphyritic 
rocks, in this respect, though perhaps in not so high a degree, 
old sandstone, clayslate, syenite, obsidian, serpentine, 



362 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

amygdaloid, dolerite, and basaltic lavas, may fall under the 
same observation as to mineral wealth ; notwithstanding, in 
parts of the country, as I have quite recently remarked, 
primitive rocks show their aged peaks, and that too, in no 
worthless form. 

In the State of Oajaca, deposites of rock salt abound, and 
also, saline springs are seen emanating from them. The 
westerly portions of the States of Cinaloa, Jalisco, Yalli- 
dolid, Guerrero, Oajaca, the Territory of Tehuantepec and 
the State of Chiapa, possess as rich a soil, and as medium 
a climate, the same valuable forest trees, and to a great 
extent the same productions, as the Territory of Colima, 
with the same susceptibilities of development. The capa- 
bilities of this Territory, I have already enlarged upon in 
a previous letter. 

In my recapitulation of the ground I have once been 
over in this Republic, in connection with communicating to 
you, Agricola, more definitely, matter which I obtained 
through the medium of intelligence and observation, I will 
draw your attention, in the first place, to Lower California. 
This Territory embraces an area of more than sixty thou- 
sand square miles, with a population of twelve thousand ; 
its capital is La Paz, having a population of about five 
hundred. It is essentially volcanic, and is traversed 
throughout its whole length by la Sierra Nevada, in the 
same manner as the State of California. 

The soil is generally not productive ; however, at the 
base of the mountain*, and in small valleys where the 
decomposition of lava has been going on for ages, it pos- 
sesses an increditable fecundity. The scarcity of rivers in 
Lower California bars much its prosperity ; and unless the 
Artesian well system can be successfully introduced, years 
will elapse ere it be generally distingushed for agriculture. 
The temperature is much milder than in the State of Cal- 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 363 

ifornia ; and the rains in winter are short, but severe, attend- 
ed by fearful storms, which spread many times, general 
consternation in whole districts, leaving scarcely the fertile 
soil to tread upon. During the rains, the thermometer sel- 
dom falls below fifty degrees Fahrenheit. 

The productions of this territory, are maize, manioc, 
wheat, beanS) peas, and all kinds of esculent roots, excel- 
lent grapes, from which wine is made of a remarkable rich 
quality ; oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, prunes, dates, figs, 
pine-apples, bananas, plantains, and other tropical fruit. 
Stock of various kinds graze in the valleys and on the 
mountains, consisting of horses, cattle, sheep, goats, and 
hogs. Fish abound to a great extent, such as halibut, sal- 
mon, turbot, skate, pilchard, large oysters, thornback, mack- 
erel, barbel, bonitos, soles, lobsters, sardines, cod, tunnies, 
anchovies and pearl-oysters. As I have already observed, 
pearl fishery is much pursued at La Paz, though formerly 
more extensively than at present. Gold, silver, and cop- 
per, are reported to abound in this territory, though to what 
extent, it is difficult for Americans to ascertain, especially 
their locations and richness ; however, in the region of La 
Paz, a gold mine is worked and said to be rich. 

Scattered over the vast area of Lower California, there 
are thirty towns of comparative small population ; twelve 
islands in the Gulf of California, and about eight west of 
the coast, but near it; six bays on the east coast, and ten 
on the west ; and finally, in this view of its natural char- 
acteristics, few are the rivers or streams which furrow the 
proud mountains of this peninsula, foaming and tumbling 
to the shores. 

Sonora embraces an area of one hundred and twenty- 
three thousand, four hundred and sixty-six square miles,with 
a population of near one hundred and fifty thousand ; its 
capital being Ures, and possessed of a population amounting 



361: TRAVELS ON THE T7ESTERN SLOPE 

to about six thousand. The southern portion of it, as well 
as the central, seems to be quite well watered, and the soil 
highly productive under the influence of irrigation. La 
Cordillera on the east, south, and on el rio de Yaqui, towers 
at many points to a magnificence rather sublime ; and 
some parts of it are characterized as abounding in gold and 
other valuable metals. There are several good ports on 
its coast, in the Gulf; and in this respect, Guaymas pos- 
sesses a preeminence. The productions would to a great 
extent, assimilate themselves to those of Lower California. 
Several rivers abound ; such as the Mayo, Yaqui, Guay- 
mas, or San Jose Creek, Sonora, San Miguel, and San 
Ignacio ; and in the northern and northwestern portion of 
thic State, the rivers Gila and Colorado flow. 

As I have observed respecting the powerful Indian tribea 
of this State, some of them retain their primitive manners 
and customs, rejecting the overtures of the Cross, and pre- 
ferring to worship God as did their Fathers of yore ! 
These Indians have never been conquered, and it would 
seem from various statements, that the Mexicans hold pos- 
session of portions of the country as tenants at will and 
suflferance. Some of the Indians pursue agriculture, while 
others roam over the forests, plains and mountains, choos- 
ing a nomadic Jife to the rural retirement of fixed gains. 
Within the boundary of this vast extant of country, there 
are one hundred and twenty towns and cities ; the chief of 
which, in a commercial view, stands Guaymas. 

The port of Guaymas possesses one of the safest and 
best harbors on the Mexican Pacific coast, or in the Gulf 
of California. It is rather capacious and sufficiently large 
to accommodate one hundred sail. It is secure against all 
kinds of wind, and at all seasons ; the holding ground is 
good, being clay; and it is surrounded by high mountains, 
which cause it to be remarkably hot and unhealthy during 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 365 

the rainy season. The season at this port is the same as 
at Mazatlan and San Bias. 

North of el rio Yaqui, the country is rough and moun- 
tainous as it approaches the river, but between this river 
and el Mayo, it is highly productive, as I have heretofore 
remarked, assuming a more varied and beautiful aspect. 
The grains of the temperate zone can be produced in the 
northern and middle portion of this State, most abundantly ; 
while sugar-cane and cotton, with many of the tropical 
fruits, are made to abound in the more southern portion. 
The route from Franklin near El Paso to Guaymas, 
through the States of Chihuahua and Sonora, though 
meandering, in order to pass the bases of towering moun- 
tains, and lead a track through their deep defiles, will, at 
no distant day, receive the approbation of untold millions, 
and add a new link between the Eastern and Western 
Coasts of America. 

This route is reputed practicable for a railroad, and it 
is only a matter of time, ere a wilderness and the savage 
hordes shall be awakened by the nostrils of the Locomo- 
tive and the Cars of Freedom, plowing their now desolate 
wilds ! 

The population of Guaymas in the dry and healthy sea- 
son, is near five thousand ; but approaching the rainy por- 
tion of the year, many leave, going to other towns in the 
more elevated sections of the State, while others go to los 
ranchos y las haciendas de ellos^ to superintend the active 
and pressing concernments of their rural interests, and 
thereby avoid the sickness or heat of summer. 

The route adapted for a railroad from Franklin or El 
Paso to the port of Guaymas on the Gulf of California, 
would indicate itself by the way of the Guadalupe Pass, 
the head waters of the Yaqui river, and so between this 
river and that of Sonora, through practicable districts for 



366 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

this object, till it may reaoh the San Jose Creek or the 
Guaymas river, thence down it to this noted port, more 
especally, of late consideration. 

There are but two lakes, Cienago de Ceres and Pitic 
Chiquito ; the former thirty miles long, and the latter 
twenty. With respect to the purposes of Government, the 
State is divided into the two departments, Arispe and Hor- 
casitas. On the western coast in the Gulf of California, 
there are several bays and ports which might be turned to 
advantageous uses, were the State prosperous and rapidly 
advancing. 

Ures, the capital of the State of Sonora, alternately with 
Arispe, was originally a point designated by the holy Jesuits 
in the early settlement of this territory, for themselves to 
exercise their faith in, and propagate among the Indian 
tribes inhabiting this region of country, the symbols of their 
creed. The town is laid out much with a view to regular- 
ity, consisting of squares, with una Plaza in the center. 
The church adjacent, is a substantial, well-built edifice, com- 
manding in its aspect, and resembling the order of archi- 
tecture usually adopted for this class of buildings in Mexico. 
Private residences are constructed in the same manner as 
in other places having fallen under my pen, being well 
built and spacious. No peculiarity distinguishes the Leg- 
islative Hall from other buildings, except that a flag-staff 
is seen floating in the gentle breeze. Cornices and other 
exterior ornaments, are rather tastefully appended to many 
of the buildings, which, in view of these being plastered 
and colored, or painted as usual in many of the Mexican 
towns, tend to promote an agreeable and pleasant appear- 
ance. 

Near this town is el Rio de Sonora, and on either side the 
bottom land for more than a mile extends, possessing remark- 
able fertility, and producing corn, wheat, Chili, pumpkins, 



OF THE MEXICAN COKDILLERA. 367 

and also adapted to sugar cane and cotton. For in the 
town there grows a single date tree, which perhaps the 
holj Fathers brought with them to this early Mission 
ground. 

The river bottom lands extending to the city of Hermo- 
sillo, distance of about fifty -four miles from Ures, possesses 
a prolific soil ; and would, under a good cultivation, supply 
many a new-rising mart, with the substantials and even the 
luxuries of life. Most of this space is lined with ranchos 
y haciendas ; and some few produce large supplies of wheat 
and other grains. La Hacienda de Don Manuel Gandera 
at Tapahui, is reported to grow more than twenty thousand 
bushels of the former grain, besides all others usually cul- 
tivated in the State of California. 

Hermosillo is a city of much importance and wealth in 
the State of Sonora, situated nearly thirty-seven leagues in 
a northward direction from the port of Guaymas, with a 
good wagon road for the convenience of travel, and the 
transmission of merchandise into the interior. It was for- 
merly called the Presidio of Pitic, which belonged to the 
company of Horcasitas. Its site is in a valley about ten 
miles in length by four in width, which is flanked by la 
Sierra de la Campana, and las Sierras de Colorado and 
Chanati ; and through which el Rio de Sonora flows, sup- 
plying it and the city people with an abundance of water 
for irrigation and household uses. This city is reported to 
possess a population of more than twenty thousand souls, 
including nearly all shades of human physiognomy. The 
climate is considered healthy ; though the thermometer in 
summer ranges for months during the day time from ninety- 
four to one hundred degrees Fahrenheit, yet as the westerly 
breeze springs up in the evening from the Gulf of Cali- 
fornia, resembling somewhat the summer winds of San 
Francisco, but in a much milder form, it brings with it the 



3 58 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

cool ocean air, and makes the nights refreshing and invig- 
orating. 

The rivers Sonora and San Miguel, aftar uniting a short 
distance above Hermosillo, and thence flowing half way to 
the Gulf, lose themselves in a swamp, or en una cienega. 
The Spanish or Moorish style of architecture is observed 
here as elsewhere ; however, many of the private buildings 
combine durability and tasteful designs in their construc- 
tion, especially in the principal streets, being all colored and 
often ornamented with colonades, pilasters and balustrades. 
The court-yards are filled with orange trees and flowering 
shrubs, and made glad with jetting fountains, dispensing 
their liquid dews upon the tender and perennial verdure. 
La Alameda attached to the margin of this town, is de- 
signed tastefully, and possessing quite a variety of orna- 
mental trees, among which may be mentioned the palm ; the 
elapse of time may yet note it highly embellished, combin- 
ing the tropical and temperate verdure in perennial bloom, 
when the destiny of this fair land shall be swayed by a 
stronger hand and a firmer will. 

The productions of the valley of Hermosillo, however 
small the extent of its surface, often exceed more than 
sixty thousand bushels of wheat ; twenty-five thousand 
bushels of maize, besides a large amount of other grains. 
Vegetables abound and are cultivated to some extent ; 
chili Colorado, garlics, sweet potatoes, and onions, demand- 
ing the most attention. Among the class of fruits most 
cultivated in this valley and district of country, and abound- 
ing most plentifully, figs, pomegranates, peaches, citrons, 
lemons, limes, oranges, melons and grapes, rank most pre- 
eminently with those of similar fruit-bearing regions in 
other countries, possessing in a remarkable degree a rich 
saccharine taste, almost unequalled, owing to the heat of 
the climate and the peculiarity of the soil. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 869 

I am informed that in this region of Sonora, the vine is 
extensively cultivated, and from the grapes a large amount 
of brandy and wine is annually manufactured for home 
consumption ; and comparing this, as well as the lower part 
of this State, with the south of Spain and Italy, and the 
Islands of the Mediterranean likewise, I can conceive no 
just reasons why this portion of Sonora, when the same 
variety of fruits, and especially grapes, shall be imported 
and introduced as coming growths among its fruit and vine- 
growers, should not produce equally as good, if not excel, 
the Smyrna figs and the Malaga raisins. It is stated by 
good authority in Sonora, that the product of wheat in the 
middle and northern portion of the State, is frequently 
from two hundred and fifty to thr<3e hundred to one ; rather 
excelling the palmy days of California. Much of the 
northern commerce of this State, is carried on through 
Hermosillo, making Guaymas in this respect a mere entre- 
pot, and consequently it has many wholesale establishments 
for vending dry snoods. Some manufacturing is pursued — 
such as the making of shoes, boots, hats, saddles, scrapes, 
and rebozos. 

Cinaloa extends over an area of near thirty-six thousand 
square miles, having a population of one hundred and sixty 
thousand ; its capital is Culiacan, with a population of eight 
thousand. The surface of the land along the coast is low, 
and somewhat sandy ; though the soil is quick and remark- 
ably fertile. Its productions being similar to those of 
Lower California, yet more abundant and of a more tropi- 
cal growth, which might be made to compare with those of 
the territory of Colima. Dye woods abound on the coast, 
and towards La Sierra Madre ; and on the eastern frontier 
there abound extensive forests of pine and cedar. Along 
the coast there are six bays, the chief one of which is that 
of Mazatian. Several rivers .flow into the coast, as Canas, 



370 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Rosario, Rastla, Xabala, Culiacan, Cinaloa, Esterellos and 
Fuerte. Flowing from the mountains in the more eastern 
portion of the State, they subserve the admirable and val- 
uable purpose of irrigation during the dry season. In this 
State, there are one hundred towns and cities, and out of 
the latter, Mazatlan, Culiacan, Cinaloa and villa del Fuerte 
are the most prominent. 

Jalisco embraces an area of forty-eight thou.sand five hun- 
dred and ninety square miles, with a population of seven hun- 
dred and seventy-four thousand, four hundred and sixty-one ; 
its capital is Guadalajara, having a population of more than 
sixty thousand. This is represented as one of the best of the 
Mexican States, possessing remarkable fertility in the soil, 
extensive forests of pine and cedar on the mountains ; and 
on the coast, luxuriant forests of valuable dye woods, com- 
mingled with vines. Gold abounds in the mountainous 
regions of this State. It yields, in the greatest exuber- 
ance, most of the productions of the torrid and temperate 
zones ; and the uplands are reputed to be highly promotive 
of health. 

The ports on the coasts are Manzanillo, La Navidad, 
Tamatlan and San Bias. The most noted of these, is that 
of San Bias. The rivers flowing into the coast, which now 
present themselves to my notice, are Tamaula, Ipala, Rio 
Grande de Santiago de Tololotlan, San Pedro and Rio de 
Las Canas. The most important of these, is the rio grande 
de Santiago, which rising partly at Lake Chapala, and car- 
rying the superfluent water of this lake along in a tumul- 
tuous manner for many a mile, through frowning wilds and 
huge precipices, disembogues its turbid waters into the bay 
of San Bias. 

In the State of Jalisco there are near five hundred towns, 
villages and cities, and among the latter the cities of Guad- 
alajara, Tepic, Sayula, Zapotlan and Tequila, are the most 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 871 

noted, as having fallen under my observation. These T 
have sufficiently mentioned in previous letters. 

Lake Chapala is the only one of importance in this 
State, and it embraces an area of one thousand seven hun- 
dred and sixty square miles, being situated in the southeast 
portion ; it is eighty miles long by twenty-two wide on an 
average. The soil near the margin of this lake, is reputed 
to abound in fertility, and much attention is about being 
paid to the planting of cotton, aside from the other tropi- 
cal productions commonly grown in its vicinity. The ponds 
about the port of Manzanillo, and their peculiar formation 
around the harbor, impress one with a continuous circuit 
of water ; and lake Cuyutlan, I have quite fully noticed. 
At the head of this lake where persons frequently take 
boats to save land travel, is the small Mexican village Te- 
coman, and near it and about thirty miles from the port is 
the small town of Istlahuaca, in the vicinity of which I09 
Salinas abound, already alluded to. 

The territory of Colima extends over an area of three 
thousand square miles, with a population of sixty-one thou- 
sand ; its capital or chief town is Colima, having a popu- 
lation of more than thirty thousand. Its fertility and pro- 
ductiveness I have enlarged upon in such a manner as to 
make its agricultural and productive properties known and 
appreciated. The port of Colima receives but little atten- 
tion — most of the merchandise coming through that of 
Manzanillo. The volcano of Colima I have written upon 
sufficiently for the comprehension of its important bearings. 
There are but thirty or forty villages or towns, besides the 
city of Colima, in the territory, and there are but two rivers 
called Colima and Almeria. The forest resources of this 
territory have already been mentioned. 

Michoacan possesses an area of twenty-three thousand 
square miles, with a population of more than four hundred 



6r2 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

and ninety-one thousand ; its capital is Morelia, a city of 
some importance situated near the interior, and not far from 
lake Patzcuaro, in the midst of a fertile and bountiful coun- 
try, having a population of eighteen thousand. The soil 
of this State is unsurpassed in the rapid promotion to ma- 
turity of all those productions adapted to the tropics, inclu- 
ding in its high altitudes those of the temperate zones. It 
possesses an uneven surface ; the mountains of Anahuac 
spreading out in various shapes, and in the westerly portion 
is the noted volcano of Jorulla. El Eio de Balsas and its 
tributaries, are the most important in this State ; the former 
forming the boundary line between this and the State of 
Guerrero. The forests on the coast and mountains abound 
in valuable woods, while the latter, for years past, have dis- 
tinguished themselves by the quantities of silver, gold and 
lead they have thrown into circulation. In the western 
portion is an extinct volcano by the name of Cerro de Tan- 
citaro. In the various portions of this State there are 
near three hundred towns, villages and cities, among the 
latter of which, Morelia, Patzcuaro and Zamora are the 
most prominent. The city of Morelia is noted as a city of 
considerable wealth — for the magnificence of its cathedral 
and numerous churches, and for the salubrity of its climate. 
There are two other small lakes towards the northern por- 
tion of the State, but of no avail to navigation. It has no 
harbors, and its commerce on the Pacific is carried on 
through the port of Siquantanejo, in the State of Guerrero. 
The State of Guerrero extends over an area of thirty- 
two thousand square miles, having a scattered population of 
two hundred and seventy thousand ; its capital is Tixtla, 
with a population of near six thousand. It possesses a 
varied and mountainous surfiice in rapid successions; a 
quick and generous soil to promote, in a high degree, trop- 
ical and temperate growths ; forests adapted to the wants 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 373 

of home consumption and foreign commerce, and mineral 
wealth waiting for more thought to develop its inexhausti- 
ble resources, with scenerj unsurpassed. Its coast extends 
more than three hundred miles on the Pacific, and is noted 
for one of the finest harbors in the commercial world, Aca- 
pulco, which is within two hundred miles of the City of 
Mexico ; besides the ports of Maldonado, Petatlan, Siquan- 
tanejo, and Zacatula. 

It is to Acapulco that nature in her smothered throes, 
gave a harbor with all the requisite capacities finished, and 
bid commerce a land-locked home on the waters of the 
deep ! To this port there are two entrances — one by La 
Boca Chica, or small mouth, between the points of Pilar 
and Grifo, near three hundred yards wide ; and the other 
lies between La Isla de la Roqueta and La Punta de la 
Bruxa, more than four hundred rods wide. Owing to the 
abruptness of the high lands surrounding the port, and the 
depth of water near the shore, merchant vessels of the 
largest class may approach and anchor within a few rods, 
or even yards of the beach. The entrance of this harbor 
may be distinguished by a remarkable white rock, which 
lies nearly abreast of the middle part of the white beach 
at the bottom of the bay. Before a Pass had been cut 
through the highlands or mountains, for the admission of 
air, the concentration of the sun's rays within the port, upon 
the water and steep sides, rendered it almost insupportable 
from the increased heat by reflection ; however, at present 
an ocean breeze sucks through this pass, more particularly 
at night, owing to the earth within the tropics retaining its 
heat longer than the ocean, and thereby the cool air rushes 
in to fill up the vacuum. The rock may be seen with ease 
at the distance of three or four leagues, when it bears on 
any part of the compass between North half West, and 
North northeast half East. 



374 



TRAVELS OX THE WESTERN SLOPE 



iillili 




OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 375 

The chief rivers are Nasca, Papagallo, and the Balsas 
with its tributaries. During the dry season, these serve 
the husbandman the means to procure the rapid growth of 
his planted labor. There are but two small lakes in this 
State, and these are known by the names of Oculla and 
Chattango, near the coast and below the port of Acapulco. 
Scattered over this extent of productive surface, there are 
two hundred villages, towns and cities ; however, none of 
them possess much note, aside from the ports of Acapulco 
and Maldonado. The ruins of Cochicalco are observed in 
the northern portion of the State, and go to indicate the ar- 
chitectural genius of ages passed into oblivion. 

The area of Oajaca is confined to thirty-one thousand, 
eight hundred and twenty-five square miles, with a popula- 
tion of near four hundred and ninety thousand ; the capital 
of this State is Oajaca, having a population of twenty-five 
thousand. The surface of this State is uneven and moun- 
tainous, possessing all that variety in climate which will 
promote health, comfort, and all the necessaries for man. 
Bearing in mind the productions of the territory of Colima, 
and the increased beat and the temperature of the numer- 
ous mountains, one may arrive at some conclusion as to the 
capabilities of the soil, while its primitive and secondary 
formations abound in precious metals. The productions 
combine cacao, plantains, bananas, pine-apples, cocoa, sugar, 
honey, some coffee, maize, wheat, manioc, grapes and coch- 
ineal, with some others, though not so important. The 
mountains and the lowlands abound in valuable forests. Its 
coast is two hundred and seventy miles long, and aside from 
Tehuantepec, which is now included in a newly organized 
territory, it possesses several ports, as Tilapa, Mistepec and 
Tututepec. The chief rivers are the Colotepec, Manial- 
tepec and Rio Verde, with its affluents. In this State as 
in the others I have mentioned geographically, la Sierra 



376 TRAVELS ON THE "WESTERN SLOPE 

Madre towers in various and conspicuous heights in many 
portions. The ancient fort of Los Cues, on the trail to 
the City of Mexico from Tututepec, is another mark, dis- 
tinguishing the charae-teristics of the past inhabitants of 
Anahuac. And near Uitla, not far from el rio de Mitla, 
an affluent of el rio de ^'erde, there are also extensive ruins 
which tend to characterize the antiquity and past magnifi- 
cence of this country. 

In this State there are one hundred and eighty towns, 
villages and cities, though none marked with more note 
than Oajaca. It is well built, after the Mexican style of 
architecture, spreading over an area of two and a half 
miles. The outskirts of the city and the neighboring 
country teem with gardens and plantations of cacao, coch- 
ineal and sugar ; while in the city are manufactured soap, 
perfumery, and chocolate, as well as many other articles 
of home consumption. Some of its buildings are reputed 
by Mexicans to be noted for the grandeur and magnificence 
in the designs of their borrowed architectural arrangements; 
the Ionic, Doric and modern Gothic orders prevailing ; as 
in the City Hall or Court of Audience, the Colleges, Con- 
vents, Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace. This city is 
situated on el rio Yerde, near one hundred miles from its 
mouth. 

The State of Chiapa contains an area of near nineteen 
thousand square miles, and a population of one hundred 
and sixty-five thousand ; its capital is Ciudad Real, having 
a population of seven thousand. The extent of its sea- 
coast does not exceed one hundred miles, with two entire 
lagoons, resembling lakes. Its surface is truly mountainous 
on the west, south and east, being in the form of half a 
circle, and mostly traversed by la Sierra Madre. Its chief 
rivers are Coatzacoalco, Tabasco, Pasiton and Usumasinta, 
which flow into the Gulf of Mexico. The soil is rich and 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 377 

highly productive in the valleys, producing in perfection 
both the growths of the tropics and temperate zones, as 
well as abounding in rich forests and mineral wealth, 
scarcely developed. For a specification of its productions, 
I refer to the vicinity of Colima and of Oajaca. The 
number of its towns, villages and cities does not exceed 
one hundred and fifty ; while among the latter, Ciudad- 
Real, Chiapa and Palenque rank as the most known. 

The remains of ancient places demonstrating the exis- 
tence of a people far advanced beyond the present race of 
Indians, show their mouldering fragments in the north-east 
portion of the State, in and around Palenque — ^touches of 
ancient architecture — monuments of past ages ! The volca- 
no of Soconusco is in the southern portion of this region 
under review. 

The State of Chihuahua extends over an area of more 
than one hundred thousand square miles, with a sparse 
population of near one hundred and fifty thousand ; its cap- 
ital being Chihuahua, having now but fourteen thousand. 
Its western and eastern portions are mountainous, with a 
few indentations where settlements are progressing ; while 
the more central part seems better adapted to the wants 
of a grazing and agricultural people. In the mountain 
ranges of the Mexican Cordillera, precious and useful 
metals abound ; such as gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, 
tin, saltpetre, bituminous coal and cinnabar. It is not noted 
for forest trees as possessing any extraordinary value. The 
soil is rich, especially on the water-courses, between the 
ranges, and in the mountain valleys, where grazing forms 
the chief pursuit ; though the vine, wheat, peas, barley, 
beans, maize, some cotton and sugar are produced. This 
is a great grazing State, abounding in stock of all kinds, 
which constitute the capital thrift of the people, and which 
are disposed of in the same manner as the State of Ken- 
p 



S78 TRATEL3 ON THE TTE STERN SLOPE 

tuckj takes to sell her surplus. Its climate is warmer but 
equally as salubrious as that of the State of California ; 
in point of game, and capabilities to produce a wealthy 
people, Chihuahua resembles that golden State. The 
Indian tribes in this State and the Apaches north of the 
line, commit frequent devastations upon the settlements, 
carrying off stock, women and children. El rio Conchas, 
and its tributaries are the most important streams watering 
the State, besides Eio Grande del Norte, on the east. 
There are but four lakes, and these possess a small area ; 
as Guzman, Maria, Candelaria and Patos. 

Extending over this extensive region of country, the eye 
can see, and the ear can hear of only two hundred villages, 
towns and cities. The city of Chihuahua is the most dis- 
tinguished ; though the sun of its glory — the tide of its 
march seems to be set ; yet its magnificent remains and 
the grandeur of its architecture attest capital designs in the 
days of its by-gone prosperity. This city is well laid out, 
or with streets crossing each other at right angles, Avhich 
are broad, mostly paved, and quite clean. The square 
called la plaza Mayor, is quite extensive, and ornamented 
on one side with a Cathedral, costing when built, eight 
hundred thousand dollars, being constructed of hewn stones; 
it is surmounted with a dome and two towers, having a 
facade, with statues of the twelve Apostles. Its style of 
architecture is in imitation of the modern Gothic order. 

On the other sides of la plaza there are public and pri- 
vate buildings, including the ancient State-House ; and in 
the center of this square there plays a beautiful fountain, 
wliich is supplied with water by a well-constructed aque- 
duct three and a half miles long, flowing from a tributary 
of the Conchos, and supported on several stupendous 
arcades. Much trade between this city and San Antonio, 
in Texas, and St. Louis, in Missouri, is carried on, and that 
too, I am told, most profitably. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. S79 

Towards the north-western portion of the State of Chihu- 
ahua, and on the west bank of las Casas Grandes river, 
which flows into lake Guzman, lie decomposing and moul- 
dering under the luxuriance of vegetable growth, the ruins 
of Aztec greatness. From the appearance of las casas gran' 
des, the great houses, it would seem that their outer portions 
were the lowest, and not above one story high, while the 
central ones were from three to six stories high. The 
ruins are constructed of adobes ; though these are much 
larger than those in use among the Mexicans at the present 
day. From a report touching a close examination of las 
casas grandes, it is to be inferred that they occupied a 
space of at least eight hundred feet from north to south, 
and from east to west, near two hundred and fifty. On 
the south side a regular and continuous wall may be traced, 
while the eastern and western fronts are extremely irreg- 
ular, leaving projecting walls. Within the enclosure there 
appears to have been several court-yards of greater or 
less dimensions. Las casas grandes here resemble those 
near the Pimo villages on the Gila, which I have already 
alluded to. 

The State of Durango covers an area of forty-eight 
thousand five hundred square miles, having a population of 
near one hundred and thirty-eight thousand ; its capital is 
Durango, with a population of twenty-five thousand. Its 
surface is uneven in the middle and south-western portions ; 
though it generally has a rough and broken surface. La 
Sierra Madre here, as in the other states I have described 
on the Western Slope of the Mexican Cordillera, raises its 
towering peaks as rods to catch electric clouds, in order to 
spread their crystal dews, and fertilize the thirsty earth. 
There are but three rivers demarked in the State, which 
are the Conchas and Nasas in the north, and in the 
south-east, el Rio grande de Parras. There are no lakes 



380 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

•wholly in the State, but lakes Parras and Cayman are sit- 
uated in the north-east portion, and are small. Spread 
over its extent, I have noticed not more than one hundred 
towns, villages and cities ; of the latter, Durango stands the 
most distinguished. 

The scenery in its vicinity is unique, grand, and impos- 
ing, carrying in its contour a picturesqueness •which hight- 
ens man's astonishment at the •works of nature. Iron mines, 
and also gold and silver, abound in this State, as •well as 
most of the metals discovered in the State of Chihuahua ; 
the former of these are considerably worked near the city 
of Durango. It has a mint, several churches, a hospital, a 
college, several convents, and also woolen and cotton man- 
ufactories, with a good and lively trade in her manufactured 
articles. 

The agricultural and grazing productions of this State 
resemble that of Chihuahua, which constitutes the wealth 
of the eastern portion, while other parts of the State com- 
prise the mineral resources. During my sojourn in Gua- 
dalajara, ncAvs from diiferent sections of the confederacy 
frequently came in, and that from the city of Durango was 
truly distressing. The Camanches especially, and other 
Indian tribes, have, for years, committed almost unheard of 
depredations, devastating much of the country north and 
west of the city, los ranchos and las haciendas^ driving off 
their stock, appropriating their annual stores, and finally 
forcing the population of flourishing districts to retreat to 
the city of Durango, for more ample security, while this 
contains a population of at least 25,000, a sufficient number, 
with American will and courage, to repel the combined at- 
tacks of all the northern liordes of Indian warriors. 

Tlie State of Zacatecas embraces an area of more than 
30,000 square miles, with a population of 30(),000 ; its cap- 
ital is Zacatecas, having a population of 26,000. This State 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 381 

forms the central ridge of the Republic, and prior to the 
discovery of gold in California, it stood nearly first in point 
of mineral wealth in America. This wealth is confined 
much to silver veins pervading the mountain districts; 
though its mineral productions assimilate themselves much 
to the other States just under review. 

The most fertile portion of the State, in an agricultural 
sense, extends over the region of Las Aguas Calientes. 
The productions combine those of the temperate zones, and 
likewise the torrid, though the latter do not generally arrive 
at that state of perfection here, as in the States on the Pa- 
cific Ocean ; and this is on account of the varied altitude of 
its level and mountain lands. 

There is but one lake in the State, which is in the north- 
ern part, and called Lago de Carbonate de Soda ; and but 
the sources of four rivers, el rio Grande de Santiago, el rio 
de Santander, rio Grande de Parras, and el rio de Bolanos. 

The number of towns villages, and cities does not much 
exceed three hundred, while the chief are Zacetecas, Som- 
brerete, and Fresuillo. The picturesque scenery of the cap- 
ital, being built over a vein of silver, tends to excite the ad- 
miration of volcanic throes, leaving an imposing impression 
upon the mind. It possesses many buildings of a public 
character, such as churches, Ihe government hall, the hall 
of audience, a mint, a gunpowder mill, and several institu- 
tions of learning, and also private residences of costly con- 
struction. The style of architecture resembles that of the 
other Mexican cities and towns, having already fallen under 
my pen. 

The eastern and northern portions of the State are mostly 
adapted to grazing pursuits, consisting of similar stock to 
Chihuahua, while the mountain forests teem with pine and 
cedar. 

The State of Guanajuato extends over an area of near 



382 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

13,000 square miles, with a population of 719,000 ; its cap- 
ital is Guanajuato, having a population of about 50,000. 
This State is mountainous, though not so much so as some 
others in review ; yet the Anahuac Cordillera rears up 
many towering peaks, approaching 10,000 feet on the north 
and southwest. But one river has its source, laving the 
soil of this State, which is el Rio de Laxa. There is no 
lake ; however, on the mountains forests abound, though 
not so valuable as in the lowlands near either coast. In 
the valleys the productions are essentially tropical, and re- 
semble those of the tropical States I have described, to a 
great extent ; yet the mountain sides are adapted to graz- 
ing, and the culture of those productions peculiar to a 
northern latitude. 

The mineral wealth consists of gold, silver, tin, iron, lead, 
marble, crystals, salts, ochre, sulphurs, antimony, and co- 
balt. The precious metals and various spices compose the 
most essential exports of this State, yet on a small scale for 
past years ; and still this is one of the best settled regions 
of the Republic, possessing, aside from its mineral resour- 
ces, a soil and climate that would arouse the quietude of 
age, and stimulate the youthful step, to the field of prosper- 
ity and intelligence. El Rio Grande de Lerma flows 
through the southern portion, emptying its waters into lake 
Chapala, on the east. 

In this State there are but four hundred towns, villages, 
and cities ; of the latter the capital is the most important, 
though being in a mountain defile, its surface is more than 
six thousand feet above the level of the sea ; and like an- 
cient Rome, it is built upon many hills ; though mineral 
wealth prevails ; the streets being, for the most part, steep 
and winding, so much so that one can form no adequate 
conception of their direction, unless upon some of the points 
overlooking the city. Many of the edifices of this city are 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 383 

truly elegant and imposing ; such as the churches, chapels, 
convents, monasteries, institutions of learning, the city hall, 
the Capital House, a mint, and manufactories, as well as the 
private residences. Hewn stones are mostly used in the 
construction of buildings of any importance, either for pub- 
lic or private use. 

The gold and silver mines in this vicinity are reported 
to be the richest as yet discovered in Mexico. Several 
articles of merchandise- are manufactured in this city ; such 
as leather, tobacco, linen and woolen cloth, soap, powder, 
saddles, bridles, trappings for horses, pottery, and various 
articles adapted to excite the pleasurable admiration of the 
ignorant or inconsiderate. It was much more prosperous, 
and exceeded its present population, when under the iron 
sway of Spain. 

This State embraces the central ridge and portion of the 
Republic between latitudes 20 degrees and 30 minutes, and 
21 degrees and 40 minutes north. 
Adios, 

Senor, 

Ageicola. 

ClJSrCINNATUS* 



384 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 



LETTEE LI. • 

Comparrag tlie Mineral aspects of Western Mexico to the State of California— Jlex- 
icans lack Pei-severance— Rivers Floising into the Pacific— Forest Trees— Grape 
Vines anclMuiberrv- Titps- Cochineal Insects — ^\"alue of Mexican M anufactures 
per Year — Her Imports and Exports, the amount of the iaticrand formci- — Value 
of Country Estates — Value of City Estates- Amount of Taxation on these Es- 
tates—Imposts on Foreign Merchandise — ^Debt of Mexico— Itcvenues, how forai- 
ed — ^I':xpenses of the Govemment per Tear — ^AVhole Income — Distressed Condi- 
tion of the Countiy People in the region of Durango — Other Computations of 
the Debt of Mexico — ^Tchuantepec, the Koute of — ^New Orleans Company con- 
structing a Plank Koad across the Isthmus of— Its Advantages over all other 
Eoutes, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, saving One-Third of the 
Time in Travel, and the Distance of Seventeen Hundred Miles — This, a Capital 
Investment — Tends to induce Immigi-ation into California — ^Past Experience as 
to other Routes for Years elapsed since Steamboat Navigation began on the 
Pacific — Travel to the Pacific Coast — ^Tehuantepec Tenitory— Composed of— 
Its Area— La Vcntosa— Its Heat— Its Plain near— Rivers of the Southern Divi- 
sion — The Surface — The Lagoons — The Soil — Its Towns— The Distance across — 
Practicable as the San iilas and Vera Cruz Stage Soad— Its Grade—Different 
Points— Capital to open the Road— Rivers to be Bridged— To wns m the 3Iiddle 
Division — Its Climate — Air and Water pure — ^Rainy Season — Boca del Monte — 
Paso Malo— Rivci-s Navigable- Xorthera Division of the Tsthtnus— Its chief 
River, with its affluants— River Bottoms— Towns of this Division— Soil— Pro- 
ductions— Export of Acayucam— Healthy Climate— Forests— Gold— Energy re- 
quired — Metals — Climate throughout the Isthmus — Spaniards— Creoles — Indi- 
ans — ^Zoology of Tchuantepcc— Sketch of its Vegetable Kingdom — Similar Pro- 
ductions throughout the Tropics of America — Americans called Filibusters — 
Americans in Mexico- Burial Places— View of the Relations between the Re- 
publics ofNorth America— That of the Enterprise of the Cnited States of Amer- 
ica — Review of Anahuac— Policy of Spain in the New Government — Spanish 
Motives — Form of the New Government— Fate of jiast Nations uniting Church 
and State — ^Destiny of such at present- Tropriety of Religion -tiood in its Pe- 
culiar, Social, and Moralizing Sphere — Object of these Lettci-s — Contracted 
Notions— Progress ofMexico since the Conquest— Indian Bands— Human Snc- 
riflces-lmixjrters of light ai\d Knowledge— Consefiucnces thereof. 

Amigo Mio : — Having traveled from the southern por- 
tion of the Oregon mines, in tlie territory of Oregon, hiti- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLEEA. 385 

tude forty-three degrees north, and throughout that region 
to the coast, and so pursuing ray course in various direc- 
tions, and observing the formation of valleys and mountains, 
their primitive and secondary constituencies, their constitu- 
tional aspects and configurations, as far south as latitude 
thirty-four, and also confining my attention to the western 
portions of the Sierra Nevada mountains, this long stretch 
of known mineral wealth, I feel to assure you, amigo, as 
well as assured in stating, that, observing and comparing 
the various mountain ridges of the grand chain of the Mex- 
ican Cordilleria, or Sierra Madre — another name for Sier- 
ra Nevada ; the valleys among them, their sloping sides, 
and their meandering rapid rivers, on the western portion 
* of this Republic ; those ridges pervading each State under 
review, in many diiferent forms, produced by volcanic fires, 
and bearing the same constitutional aspects and configura- 
tions, with reference to the primitive and secondary forma- 
tion of rocks and deposits ; and also the same constituencies 
of soil and mineral analogies, to my observation and know- 
ledge of mineral districts in the Stnte of California ; this 
portion of Mexico, respecting its mineral kingdom, has 
scarcely been moved by the hand of man in the effort to 
develop its endless latent resources ; notwithstanding hun 
dreds of mines have been explored and successfully worked. 
The Mexicans lack weight of character, will, and well 
defined courage and perseverance to pursue and accom- 
plish. The Mexican ports on the Pacific, for the same ex- 
tent of country, and concentrating the same amount of pro- 
ductive lands in mineral, grazing, forest, and agricultural 
capabilities, cannot be excelled by any other country, the 
better known of which I have mentioned in my review. 
The rivers flowing into the Pacific from this western slope, 
seldom impress one with much nobility or importance, ex- 
cept to water the country ; for they are usually rapid, 



386 TRAVELS ON THE WESTEEN SLOPE 

tumbling and foaming over ledges of primitive and second- 
ary formations, presenting insurmountable obstacles to the 
facilities of Mexican navigation ; though such would be 
slightly winked at by American enterprise. 

As I have already remarked in allusion to forest pro- 
ductions, Brazil wood, also Campeche, giant ferns, and cap- 
sicum abound within the tropical portion of Mexico, on the 
low and high lands ; also, cedars, ebony, and rosewood ; 
while in other parts marbles, jaspers of the richest and most 
variegated colors, rock crystals, and many of the more pre- 
cious stones, as opal, topaz, torquoise, agate, amethyst, and 
cornelian, abound to a considerable extent. 

During the period of Spanish sway in Mexico, and after 
the introduction of the grape and mulberry culture had 
proved itself successful and highly remunerative to those 
pioneers engaged in it, a decree of los Cortes de Espaiia 
was issued, prohibiting the further extension of this culture, 
and finally enforcing those who had entered into it with 
their capital, industry, and experience in these pursuits, to 
cut down and destroy the vines and trees planted, fearing 
the rival influence which this new province or viceroyalty 
might create, to the disadvantage and prejudice of the 
home population. 

Since the Mexican revolution, little attention or spirit has 
been manifested with respect to the re-introduction of the 
grape and mulberry culture ; though millions of acres are 
adapted to these pursuits. Monopoly was the order endorsed 
by Spain, with reference to the commercial and agricultural 
concernments of her distant provinces, and she has almost 
lost them all ; and Mexico, in this respect, not unfrequently 
treads in her wake, tind what will she not eventually loose? 
for this year, 18oC>, even an order, from the Mexican 
supreme Congress, was issued, to all parts of the Republic, 
to enforce, in cities and towns, the dpva>;tntion of slu de trees, 
under a severe penalty. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 887 

Cochineals are still reared in the more southern portions 
of the Republic; though their production has not attained, 
since the revolution, the prosperous condition and ampli- 
tude which it bore prior to that period. They are grown 
upon a species of cactus, and when matured for gathering, 
the branches and leaves are shaken, so that the insects fall 
upon a mat spread out for this purpose. The culture of 
these insects for the object of dying, was well understood 
by the Aztects. 

From the best information obtainable while I was in the 
city of Guadalajara, touching upon the value of Mexi- 
can manufactures per year, I was led to conclude that it 
approximated near the sum of one hundred millions of dol- 
lars, embracing the whole ; as cotton, woolen, silk, paper, 
olive-oil, rum, wine, pottery, glass, gold and silver lace, form- 
ing the chief articles manufactured; however, there are 
many others not mentioned, of comparative value. The 
imports of Mexico come mostly from England, France, and 
Germany, yet some from the United States ; including most 
all merchandise in use, for the comfort and pleasure of man. 
The exports consist mostly of gold and silver coin, dye- 
woods, capsicum, nuts of the cacao, palm nuts, sarsaparilla, 
cochineal, copper, salt, and pearl. The annual exports of 
gold and silver approximate the sum of twenty-two mil- 
lions of dollars, stated by some authorities ; while the other 
productions amount to about four millions of dollars in the 
form of annual exports, making in all twenty-six millions. 
These form an offset to the imports, hence presenting com- 
mercial exchanges to the amount of fifty-two millions of 
dollars per year. 

A report made by by the Tax Officer of the government 
estimates the number of country estates at twenty thousand, 
and their general value not far from one billion of dollars ; 
while that of the city estates at seven hundred millions of 



388 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

dollars, making in all one billion, seven hundred millions of 
dollars. Upon this estimated value of real estate in the 
Republic of Mexico, the whole amount of direct taxation, 
seldom exceeds the sum of five hundred thousand dollars 
per year ; therefore, the revenues for the support of the 
government, besides the amount above, are derived from 
imposts on foreign merchandise, which amount to more 
than one-third of the value of the inventories certified to by 
Mexican Consuls, residing in foreign ports. These consid- 
erations represent and re-affirm the statements which I have 
already made, with reference to the exemption of real 
estates and the privileged class from taxation. 

Some political accountants represent the whole debt of 
Mexico to exceed the sum of one hundred and thirty-three 
millions of dollars, about one-third of the whole value of 
the real estate both in the country and cities. 

The revenues of the States of the Mexican Federation 
are composed of direct and indirect imposts ; the former 
are imposed upon persons, estates, and professions, but 
scarcely preceptible ; while the latter are on articles of con- 
sumption ; the movement of agricultural products, for sale, 
into the different markets ; national and foreign industry ; 
inheritances, transfers of real estate, and the working of the 
mines in the mineral States. 

It has been communicated to me while in this Republic, 
that the expenses of the Mexican Government per year, 
amount nearly to the sum of fifteen millions of dollars, while 
its entire revenue is computed to not exceed ten millions of 
dollars per year. By other political accountants, the Re- 
public is computed to owe a foreign debt of some more than 
fifty millions of dollars, and a home debt of near that 
amount ; while there are yet under diplomatic consideration 
and adjustment, at least ten millions of dollars, which sum 
is likely to be enforced against her for reparation. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 389 

Having omitted to observe the distressed condition of the 
expelled proprietors of ranchos and haciendas, with their 
families, who had been once so rich and flowing in abun- 
dance, in the region of Durango, I will now observe, that 
many of them are living in this city in comparative pen- 
ury, having scarcely any wants but those to supply hunger 
and garments ; for they are frequently compelled to sell 
their costly diamonds and jewels at a mere nominal valua- 
tion, in order to procure for themselves the necessaries of 
life. 

Contemplating the various routes between the Pacific and 
Atlantic oceans, completed and proposed, to connect the 
more expeditiously the extreme portions of the United 
States, aside from the practicability of having a middle and 
southern line of rail-road ; the advantages which these 
routes should afford to the traveling community and to the 
dry -goods commerce ; and also, a spread of a more impor- 
tant American influence, none, o an unbiased and uninter- 
ested people, more than for the best link of inter-communi- 
cation, seems to be of so deep a concernment and consideration 
under present review, as the Tehuantepec route, in the form 
of ocean navigation. The region of Tehauntepec, but a 
short time since, at farthest two years, has been formed into 
an organized territory of the Mexican Confederation, occu- 
pying the Isthmus of its own name, with a population of 
near ninety thousand. Across this Isthmus, the distance 
is computed to be one hundred and forty-three and one-half 
miles in a straight line, connecting the Pacific ocean and the 
Gulf of Mexico. This distance is almost traversed by el 
Rio de Coatzacoalco ; which rises near el rio de Chicapa, 
emptying into the Gulf of Tehuantepec. 

The New Orleans Company, formed a few years since, 
for the Gulf of Mexico and Pacific ocean navigation, and 
having procured a charter for the right of way from the 



390 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Mexican Government, have now nearly completed a plank 
road to connect Minatitlan on the Coatzacoalco, twenty 
miles from its entrance into the Gulf of Mexico, with La 
Ventosa on the Gulf of Tehuantepec, near" latitude sixteen 
degrees, twelve minutes and forty-nine seconds north. The 
advantages of this route over the others in operation, clearly 
demonstrate the important bearings wliich this link, so 
superabundant with golden fruit and capabilities, will afford 
to inter-oceanic navigation, from the fact of its lessening the 
distance between New Orleans and San Francisco, at least 
one thousand, seven hundred miles, as seen on the map ; and 
consequently, a saving of one-third of the time now required ; 
and upon the same basis of computation, one third of the 
present expense of the traveling community at large. 

Viewing this route as I have been led to, while visiting 
the Mexican Republic, I feel astonished that the capitalists 
of the United States do not penetrate more into its magni- 
tude and importance than it has experienced from their 
sagacity and foresight, since its inception ; as almost every 
investment judiciously made, and carefully guarded in this 
country, seems to pay well ; though this route would seem 
to embody them all in the magnificence of its designs, and 
the paramount productiveness of its adoption, when com- 
pleted. 

There are other weighty considerations to be taken into 
account, in view of this route, besides a saving of the time 
and expense herein mentioned. The most urgent and para- 
mount of these, which now impress my pen, are coupled 
with the endeavor to induce a more steadfast immigration 
and settlement into California, as well as a more permanent 
state of commercial and agricultural affairs, which should 
make old dales and hills, valleys and mountains, re-echo 
with a healthful action and reaction of business, and with 
the notes and songs of gay festivity ; aud also, reverberate 



OF THE MEXICAN COEDILLEEA. 391 

from ocean to ocean, the arts and sciences in the transit of 
the shortest space of time practicable. Less speculation, 
but more industry, the State of California needs, in order 
to promote the best ends of her Commonwealth, which can 
be attained only by. opening a cheap communication to the 
Atlantic States, that might rapidly facilitate the desire to 
emigrate West and settle the Pacific shores. 

Experience in the steam navigation of the ocean, from 
the eastern to the western domain of the United States, 
since the acquisition of California, has proved the routes 
binding the two extremes together too expensive by far, 
for a numerous class of European and American citizens, 
having families to support, to patronize ; therefore in this 
respect, many of those sources, inexhaustible in their 
nature, as abounding in wealth, which are now dormant in 
this State from the want of population and the facilities to 
induce it, would have been far more advanced ; such as 
the vine and mulberry culture ; and a more complete system 
of agriculture and manufactures, in order to have effected 
ere this, a more sovereign independence. 

The pressure of travel from the Atlantic to the Pacific 
coast of the United States of America, coupled with the 
desire to dig gold in the State of California, and the expense 
attending this long journey, has recently revived, and 
drifted capitalists and the public mind towards a most 
probable certainty as to the completion of the Tehuantepec 
route. Before I close this letter respecting my geograph- 
ical recapitulation of Western Mexico, I propose a more 
minute description of the newly organized Territory of 
Tehauntepec. 

It is my intention first to notice the Pacific portion of 
this Territory, which extends twenty-five miles inland, 
including the harbor and bay of La Ventosa ; next the 
middle portion of the Territory extending near seventy 



392 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

miles northward, which comprises the table and mountain- 
ous districts ; and lastly, the portion bordering on the Gulf 
of Mexico, which extends fifty miles inland towards the 
Pacific. 

The Territory of Tehuantepec embraees a portion of the 
States of Oajaca, Vera Cruz, and Tobasco, with meridian 
lines running north and south, and those parallel east and 
west, which geographical position causes the coast to run 
east and west on either side — quite different from the other 
portions of the American Continent. Its area is near six- 
teen thousand square miles, averaging over one hundred 
and forty-four miles in length, and some over one hundred 
in width. 

The harbor of La Yentosa is located on the southern 
coast of this Territory, and lies in latitude north sixteen 
degrees, twelve minutes and forty-nine seconds ; and the 
western portion of which owes its formation to el Cerro del 
Morro, a lone rock having an altitude of one hundred and 
fifty feet, which is broad at its base and cone-shaped. This 
serves as quite an efficient protection against northers. 
The anchorage within this port is considered highly tenable, 
which, for the most part indicates on examination, a clay 
bottom. The depth of the water varies from eighteen feet 
near the shore to forty ; so that vessels of the largest size 
may approach within a few hundred feet and ride in safety, 
either infiuenced by the south or north winds. 

By some slight improvement to this port in the form of 
a breakwater, as suggested by some, steamers and sailing 
vessels would be enabled to receive their passengers and 
cargoes directly from the shore. From the experience of 
able mariners, it i^ the conclusion that La Yentosa is 
equally as safe for shipping at all seasons of the year, as 
Monterey in the State of California. The northers are 
reported to blow directly ofi" from the land, and conse- 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 







" liiir'"" 






'i 



liJi 



s < 



^ IP''iiiliilll 




394 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

quentlj produce no commotion in the waters ; and the 
southerly winds, which prevail in summer and autumn, do 
not tend to produce swells sufficient to alarm sea captains 
for the safety of their shipping while swinging at anchor. 
During the rainy season at this port, and in fact the Pacific 
portion of this territory, the heat seldom exceeds eighty-two 
degrees of Fahrenheit near mid-day, and at night it falls 
to seventy-four degrees ; while the dry season increases the 
heat to eighty-eight degrees after mid-day, and during the 
night the thermometer falls to seventy-seven degrees. This 
modification of the tropical heat at La Ventosa, and across 
the Isthmus, is greatly owing to its being encompassed by 
i>cean waters on either side, which serve as strong barriers 
against otherwise a miasmatic atmosphere, and to promote 
a vigorous and healthful growth, both animal and vegetable. 
North and near the port of La Ventosa, a beautiful and 
broad plain, running east and west, presents itself, with 
many considerations advantageous to the growth of a new 
city on the Pacific. This is not subject to overflow, but is 
supplied with pure mountain water, flowing from los Rios 
de Tehuantepec and San Juan. Owing to the peculiar fig- 
ure of the port of La Ventosa, vessels may enter and de- 
part without any regard to the direction of the wind, which 
enhances it much in a commercial view. The Pacific Divi- 
sion of Tehuantepec resembles an inclined plane, with some 
ridges and mounds; and it is w^atered by eight rivers, 
which, rising in las Cordilleras, in the rear of the port, flow 
into the ocean and the lagoons near the coast, and the most 
important of which are the Tehuantepec on the west, and 
the Ostuta and Chicapa on the east. Near the sources of 
these rivers, which How on the southern portion, the water 
is pure and clear, resembling the waters issuing from las 
Sierras Nevadas, in tlie State of California. Some of these 
rivers will, at no distant day, present their imi)ortance as 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 395 

sources of water power to a more thoughtful and a far more 
provident people. The rivers not having far to run, rather 
impress one with the idea, during the rainy season, of 
mountain torrents dashing and tumbling to the coast. The 
length of the lagoons receiving the most of the waters from 
the southern part of the Isthmus, is near forty miles, aver- 
aging five in width ; and these lagoons are connected with 
the ocean by a channel called Boca Barra. 

Of the surrounding country one can have an extended 
view by ascending to the hight of Cerro Morro, and casting 
his eye over the plain stretching to and skirting las Cordil- 
leras on the north. This plain is somewhat rolling, and gen- 
erally possesses a rich and quick soil, composed of vegetable 
decomposition, clay and sand, with a diluvium from the 
moimtains; and it also abounds with trees of various kinds, 
as those in the territory of Colima ; but their growth is not 
so luxuriant near the mountains as the coast. 

It is now my purpose to mention in a casual manner the 
towns embraced on the Tehuantepec plain. Huislotepec 
is situated east of the Tehuantepec river, four miles from 
the sea, and near a mound called the " Hill of Crystals." 
Its population is small, not much exceeding two hundred 
natives. The buildings are sparse, scarcely entitling it to the 
consideration of a town. La Villa of Tehuantepec is a 
place of importance, being situated twelve miles from La 
Yentosa, and having a population of near fourteen thou- 
sand. The same characteristics prevail here as in other 
portions of the Mexican Republic, with reference to classes 
and shades of colors among its population. The Castilians 
and their descendants, unmixed, assume a proud and for- 
bidding air, while the mixed are more aifable and compla- 
cent, and the Indians are servile and humble. It seems 
from the number of churches, only sixteen, that there is in 
this city a large amount of religious faith. Among the 



396 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

crumbling remains of perhaps the Toltec race, there is yet 
seen in this place the venerable Parraquia, built by Coci- 
jopi, in 1530, who was then the ruling chief of the Zapote- 
cos tribe of Indians. The architrcture of this ancient edi- 
fice attests the progress of a people whose onward march 
has been eclipsed by the march of quite a different civiliza- 
tion ; and it would appear to remind one of Stephen's nar- 
ratives respecting Central America. The market place is 
the public square, or la plaza publica, where provisions, 
vegetables, and fruits are sold by the same class as attend 
market in other Mexican towns having fallen under my ob- 
servation. 

The productions I shall mention more particularly after 
having described the topography of the chief towns or 
places of note, and the geographical position of the moun- 
tains and rivers on this Isthmus. 

The city of Tehuantepec is somewhat noted for manu- 
facturing various articles of consumption ; such as earthen- 
ware, soap, saddles, with their trappings, silver ware, hats, 
mats, leather, cotton cloth, silk sashes, boots, shoes and 
home clothing, to a great extent. The government of this 
territory is now confined to the general government of the 
Mexican Republic, which appoints a Governor, with sub- 
ordinate officers, and with a restricted delegating power. 
Tliis city under review enjoys the privilege of a City Coun- 
cil, several Alcaldes, and such others as a wholesome mu- 
nicipal police would seem to require. Some attention is 
paid to education in the form of public schools, and to the 
pleasures of ornamental grounds, simihir to Colima ; and 
also to places of amusement. Hotels, stores, and shops of 
various trades abound, and would, from the number of her 
citizens, denote a discordant din, yet conducive to one end, 
that of a livelihood. Mount Guiengola, fifteen miles north- 
west of the city, is celebrated for having been once the 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 397 

abode of man, from the ruins abounding near it, and for a 
cave nearly on its summit. 

Juchitan is another villa of importance, and has an in- 
dustrious population of six thousand, who manufacture the 
same articles as at Tehuantepec, and among whom there 
are some foreigners. It is situated in a fertile district of 
country, and near fifteen miles northeast of the city of Te- 
huantepec. The only building of note is La Parraquia, 
built by the Dominican Friars in the year 1600. 

Itztaltepec is a village of near fifteen hundred inhabit- 
ants, who seem industrious and enjoy fine houses. Indigo 
is much grown in this district, one would suppose, from the 
vats abounding throughout the district. It is situated six 
miles from Juchitan, in rather a north-east direction. 

The other villages and places important to be noticed are 
San Geronimo, Chihuitan, Santa Cruz, with a population 
in each not exceeding six hundred, though they are situat- 
ed in fertile districts of the southern slope. Santa Cruz 
embraces una hacienda, where the sugar crop in the year 
1850 amounted to one hundred and fifty thousand pounds, 
quite sufficient to supply the State of Oajaca. The ma- 
chinery resembles that which I have described in other 
parts of these letters. Before describing more of the towns 
in this territory, it is my purpose to mark the line of the 
great thoroughfare proposed to connect the Pacific coast 
with the Gulf of Mexico, and with this in view I will begin 
at the port of La Ventosa. 

From this place to Suchil, by the way of Tehuantepec, 
Comitancillo, San Geronimo, Pancho de la Martar, el Paso 
de la Chivela, el Barrio, via Xochiapa plains, Cerro Sara- 
bia, Paso de la Puerta, and Picaduras, the distance is esti- 
mated to be one hundred and eighteen miles. From Suchil 
to Minatitlan, on the west side of el Pio de Coatzacoalco, 
by the way of the mouth of the Jaltepec, Mount Encanta- 



S98 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

da and Tesistepec, the distance is computed to be ninety-five 
and a half miles by measurement, including the windings of 
the survey, which distance, added to the former, makes the 
length of this route, from ocean to gulf, of two hundred and 
thirteen and a quarter miles, though the direct air line is 
only one hundred and forty-three and one half miles. A 
more direct line would be on the east side of that river, but 
not so practicable for immediate use, without considerable 
expenditures. In view of this distance, and judging a stage 
road through this territory as practicable as from San Bias 
to Vera Cruz, by the city of Mexico, I can see no good 
reason why it cannot be traveled in thirty-six hours, from 
the fact of all the requirements being so ample and near at 
hand. A carriage or stage road from the Pacific plains, 
through the pass of La Chivela, is considered practicable, 
and that, too, without a heavy outlay of capital. It is re- 
ported that the grade approaching the summit, on either 
side of this dividing ridge, can be effected by excavating 
sixty feet to a mile, or one foot to every eighty-eight feet. 
The distance from La Ventosa to Tehuantepec is twelve 
miles ; to Comitancillo, twenty-four miles ; San Geronimo, 
thirty-one miles ; Rancho de la "Martar, thirty-nine miles ; 
La Chivela Pass, forty-six and nine-tenth miles ; El Bar- 
rio, via Xochiapa Plains, fifty-nine and one tenth miles ; 
Cerro Sarabia, ninty-six and two fifth miles ; Paso de la 
Puerta, one hundred and six and three fifths miles ; the 
intersection of the Picaduras, one hundred and twelve miles; 
and to Suchil, near el Rio de Sarabia, one hundred and 
eighteen miles ; so that the remaining distance to Minatit- 
Ian by the way of the Jaltepec, Mount Encantada, and Te- 
sistepcc, including the necessary circuits, will not exceed 
the aforesaid two hundred and thirteen and a quarter miles. 
"With an expenditure of, at most, two hundred thousand 
dollars, a good, practicable stage road can be made, as na- 



OF THE MEXICAN COBDILLERA. 399 

ture has done much to direct the line, while considerable 
labor has been brought to bear on el Paso de Chivela by 
Seiior Garaj. The rivers such as the Tehuantepec, Los 
Perros, Malatengo, Sarabia, Jumuapa, Jaltepec and Mon- 
zapa, would require some expense in the construction of 
permanent bridges ; the materials for which may be had 
near their several localities. 

The towns occupying the middle division of the territory 
of Tehuantepec, are small, and scarcely deserve the appel- 
lation of anything more than haciendas. However, I will 
mention their names : La Chivela, El Barrio, San Domingo 
and Petapa on the west ; and Santiago, Tarrifa, San Miguel, 
Chimalapa in the valley of el Rio de Chicapa, and Santa 
Maria Chimalapa, on the east side of the thoroughfare un- 
der review, comprise the whole which now impress my pen 
as worthy of notice ; notwithstanding they are situated in 
valleys and on the mountain sides, which should teem with 
an industrious and prosperous people. 

The point called Suchil is not far from the river Sara- 
bia, which unites with el Rio Coatzacoalco, near fifty-five 
miles in a direct line from Minatitlan. In a northward di- 
rection from the plains of Xochiapa, which are also north 
of the pass of Chivela, on the Pacific, the Indian pueblo 
6f San Juan Guichicovi is situated near six miles in a 
mountainous district, which commands a view of dales and 
and hills far around. The town is much scattered and pos- 
sesses a population of more than five thousand, who culti- 
vate the fertile vallies and prairies in maize, sugar-cane, 
rice, bananas, plantains, and such other productions as I 
shall mention in ray cursory review of this lovely and ad- 
mirable country. 

From the position and altitude of the Pacific and middle 
Divisions of Tehuantepec territory, one is forced to the con- 
clusion that in point of climate, they are unsurpassed almost 



400 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

by any other region, especially within the tropics ; for the 
temperature seldom varies more than twenty degrees. The 
towns of Petapa, El Barrio and Santo Domingo, being sit- 
uated not far from the table land north of el Paso de Chi- 
vela, enjoy a high reputation for promoting health, and are 
resorted to by invalids from other portions of the Mexican 
States and the territory itself. The water here is pure ; the 
air bracing, and the fruits abundant. The rainy season in 
each of these Divisions is in the months of June,July, August, 
September and a portion of October, though not in that 
profusion and deluge-like manner, as in the northern Divis- 
ion of this territory. For many months in the year, the 
summits of the Sierra IMadre are capt with clouds which 
impart rains, and invigorate the bottom lands at its base, 
running out into fertile and luxuriant valleys. Towards 
the eastern part of the middle Division is the noted hacienda 
of San Gabriel de la Boca del Monte, situated north of el 
Rio de Coatzacoaico. It was settled in 1824, and has now 
a mixed population of near one hundred, engaged in the 
cultivation of sugar, coflfee, vanilla, maize, fruits and tobac- 
co, and also in the growth of stock generally. 

Malo Paso, or Paso del Sarabia is at the head of native 
navigation on the Coatzacoaico river, where el Rio Sarabia 
unites its waters with the former river. It is now merely 
known by name, as it has, like many a Mexican enterprise, 
fallen into the forest shades for want of a thoughtful and a 
more industrious people. In a direct line from Minatitlan 
Paso Malo is near sixty miles. 

From Minatitlan to the rapids near Suchil, on el Rio de 
Coatzacoaico, the distance approximates fifty-five miles in 
a direct line, and by the windings of the river it must be 
one hundred. It is reported that this distance may be 
navigated at all seasons of the year by light draught steam- 
ers, drawing somewhat less than two feet of water. At 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 401 

least this distance can be navigated with as much facility 
as the Ohio river in low water — the river which floats mil- 
ions of dollars worth of products to different markets. The 
time required by those steamers to make the one hundred 
miles should not exceed twelve hours, running time. This 
distance thus navigable would be a great saving of land 
travel and staging, especially during the rainy seasons on 
the northern division of the Tehuantepec territory, where 
the road from the nature of the country, might be much 
obstructed, as it is not unfrequent, at that period, for this 
region to be almost deluged from the intense tropical rains. 
The distance from Suchil, by a stage road, to La Ventosa, 
being only one hundred and eighteen miles, and mostly 
over more elevated tracts of country, where the air is cool- 
ed by the mountain winds, flowing into the valleys to fill 
up the vacuum produced by concentracted heat, could be 
traveled, at most any season of the year, within twentj'-four 
hours, surmounting the natural obstacles presented by el 
Paso de Chivela. 

The northern division or portion of Tehuantepec embra- 
ces by far the most fertile and productive extent, in the 
form of bottom lands bordering the rivers. El rio de 
Coatzacoalco rises in the mountainous districts of las Cor- 
dilleras, which divide the territory into the ncJrthern and 
southern plains ; and its prominent affluents on the east 
are los rios Uspanapa and Coachapa, which receive their 
fountains from the same mountain ranges ; while on the 
west that river is greatly augmented by the disembouge- 
ment of los rios Tierra Nueva, Tacateno, Tacojalpa, Bra- 
zo-Mistan, Naranjo, Jaltepec, Jumuapa, and Sarabia, all of 
which are fed by mountain clouds. Near twenty miles east 
of the mouth of the river Coatzacoalco el rio Tonala flows 
into the Gulf of Mexico, formed by two tributaries called 
los rios Sanapa and Tancochapa, ten miles in a direct line 
Q 



402 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

from its mouth. These rivers rise also in the elevated ta- 
ble lands of the dividing ridges of las Cordilleras. 

The country adjacent to all these rivers most generally 
possesses such an unsurpassed fecundity and quickness in 
the soil, and such a luxuriant vegetation in plants and herbs, 
which everywhere bound the vision and incite the mind to 
admiration and thankfulness, that, when on some high peak, 
looking down upon the exuberance of such a landscape, one 
feels that nature has there embodied all her kindred eli- 
raents, and was happily spreading them out for the repast 
of man. 

The kinds of plants and trees, and also the different kinds 
of productions will, in their turn, engross my pen. On the 
northern slope of Tehuantepec, there are a few towns, 
whose topography with reference to the Territory, it is now 
my purpose to briefly mention. Minf^titlan, from being the 
sea-port and the extent of ocean steamers ascending the 
river Coatzacoalco, will be the first to claim my attention. 

The site of this port is on the west side of that river, 
about twenty miles from its mouth. The town is small, not 
numbering over six hundred souls, whose colors and char- 
acteristics will assimilate with other villages which I have 
already mentioned. Its site is low and somewhat subject 
to overflow in the rainy season ; though it ascends in the 
rear of the river, and is considerably rolling. Some few 
avocations for a livelihood are pursued here and in its 
vicinity. Merchants or traders, mechanics, boatmen, and 
the tillers of the j^oil exist ; and tropical productions and 
fruits abound, while grazing to some extent is pursued not 
far distant on tlie rich meadow lands bordering the river 
and the small rivulets. Tlic channel of the river Coatza- 
coalco, from its entrance into the Gulf to iMinatitlan, aver- 
ages rather more than twelve feet in depth ; though in 
places the lead seems to indicate forty. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 



403 




404 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Almagres, situated on the east bank of the Coatzacoalco, 
near thirty-eight miles from its mouth in a direct line, is 
quite small ; and its population does not exceed four hun- 
dred, possessing even in this number almost every shade of 
complexion. The productions of tropical fruits, sugar and 
coffee, comprise most of its agricultural staples, while 
grazing is made quite a pursuit on the bottom lands of the 
river and its small affluents. 

San Francisco is a small village on the south side of the 
river Sanapa, a branch of the Tonala. In population, its 
size is inferior to that of many Haciendas, not numbering 
over three, or the most, four hundred. The country in this 
vicinity, and between this river and that of Tancochapa 
west of it, and also a branch or arm of the Tonala, is rich 
in soil and in forest growths, and also in tropical produc- 
tions ; and in many portions of this region, grazing is much 
attended to by the settlers. 

Jaltipan is a town of two thousand five hundred inhab- 
itants, including Indians and mixed classes, and is situated 
near twenty-six miles north-west of the mouth of el Rio 
Coatzacoalco and twelve miles nearly west of Minatitlan. 
The ridge where its site is located is somewhat elevated 
from the plain around, which adds a cheer to a home within 
its confines. Near the town there is a hill cnlled the " Hill 
of Malinche," about forty feet high which afibrds one an 
admirable view of the country far around. All those pious 
requisites which embelish most of Mexican towns, one can 
see here ; and even places where the Saints teach the 
youth to imitate. The country is productive ; the soil 
being composed of sand, vegetable decomposition and vol- 
canic fragments. Cocoa nuts, cacao nuts, sugar cane, cof- 
fee, and troj)ical fruits, grow and are considerably cultivated 
for home consumption. Maize is throughout this country 
a staple as much as corn in the valley of the Mississippi, 
and serves the natives as the main staff" of life ; though 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 405 

thousands of other esculent productions everywhere abound. 

The city or villa de Acayucan, is thirty-six miles in a 
north-west direction from the mouth of the Coatzacoalco, 
and twenty-four miles nearly west of Minatitlan. Its popu- 
lation approximates six thousand, and is mixed as it is 
usual for Mexican cities. It has churches, school houses, 
and to some extent, abounds in trade, having several stores, 
a cotton gin, and sugar presses where the country people 
haul their cane, in order to manufacture it into sugar. The 
same productions here abound as I have alluded to above. 
The pursuit of grazing is somewhat attended to. The for- 
est trees are considered valuable, and under a directing 
handy would be turned to account. In the heat of mid-day 
the creeping vines dangling from lofty growths, invite the 
wearied man to the repose of shade, surrounded by thou- 
sands of gay festoons, formed with blossoms unique and fra- 
grant. Some trade is pursued with Minatitlan from this 
place ; though most of its traffic is carried on through el 
Paso de San Juan, on a river of that name, which serves 
an outlet for most of the exports of the northern portion of 
Tehuantepec territory. In the prosperous days of this city, 
the annual exports of ixle, a species of the Agave Ameri- 
cana, though much finer, and of cotton, through that Pass 
to Vera Cruz, are reported to have exceeded one million of 
dollars. Salt abounds in this region and is an article of 
trade. Here all that man may want, can be acquired ; the 
soil is rich ; the water-powers are good and abundant, while 
the forests abound in game ; and nature's works and the 
fragments of past ages afford instances of attraction and 
study. 

Moloacan is a small Indian settlement, with a population 
not exceeding eight hundred, who are graced with one 
church and a school house. Its site is much elevated, so 
as to command a view of the rich valleys and joo^reVos which 
skirt the northern base of las Cordilleras that divide the 



406 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

waters of two oceans, and is situated seven miles from Paso 
Nuevo on the esast side of el Rio Coatzacoalco, and about 
eight miles from the Gulf. The productions are maze, ixle, 
and fruits peculiar to the country. The ixle or bromelia 
Pita, a species of the Mexican Maguey, abounds here in 
great luxuriance, and could easily be made an article of 
extensive exportation. Within eleven miles of this place, 
a petroleum spring abounds, the sources of which are con- 
sidered inexhaustible. Not far distant from this, one can 
trace the demarkations of a sulphur spring and a mine of 
rock salt. 

The small Indian village of Cosuliacaque about seven 
miles from Minatitlan, in a westward direction, dates its 
settlement back more than one hundred and forty years, 
and is noted for its healthy location. Many persons here 
attain the advanced age of one hundred years, which is sel- 
dom exceeded in more northern climes. This of itself, with 
few exceptions in low marshy bottoms, is sufficient proof 
that the territory of Tehuantepec, including its plains and 
mountainous districts, is as healthy, if not more so, than any 
other portion of the American continent, and would, under 
a fostering government, eclipse or equal any other region 
in the multiplicity of its productions, and the extent to which 
its commerce might be carried on in the exportations of its 
indigenous growths. 

La Hacienda de San Jose del Carmine possesses a settle- 
ment of one hundred natives, on the north bank of el Rio 
Tancochapa, a branch of the Touala. This river, as well 
as the Uspanapa, borders the estate, and both of them are 
navigable, which affords the San Jose Hacienda every ad- 
vantage with reference to transporting its products to home 
or foreign markets. 

In this region, gold has been discovered ; and it is evi- 
dent that the precious metals must have been sought and 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 407 

mines worked in this part as well as many other districts 
in Mexico, by a people quite civilized, and anterior to the 
conquest, from the fact that artificial wells exist, which 
resemble earthern jars five or six feet deep by three feet 
in diameter ; and which are near el rio de Tancochapa. By 
some writers who have explored the Gila and the river 
alluded to, it is inferred that those wells must have been 
formerly used for washing out the precious metals. 

The soil here is well adapted to the culture of cotton, 
rice, sugar, cocoa, cacao, maize, and esculent fruits ; while 
the forests abound in valuable timber, dye-woods, and gum- 
trees. The natural meadows are rich in the luxuriance of 
their grasses, and cattle spot their surfaces and mountain 
sides wherever the eye is turned towards verdant land- 
scapes. 

The geological as well as the constitutional formation of 
the mountains of the Isthmus, strongly resembles that of 
California ; and in fact, all the Cordillera chain throughout 
North and South America, under different names, bears 
nearly the same aspect, and evident proofs of the precious 
metals abounding. That gold abounds in the mountains of 
the Isthmus is a matter of record handed down by those 
who explored this territory immediately after the conquest 
of Anahuae. Alvarado's exploration of Tehauntepec, in 
1522, is proof of the position which I have already 
assumed ; and the history of that exploration informs us 
that the natives of the country appeared to have an abun- 
dance of the precious metal. 

It is now for a new race, a race possessed of iron will, 
to turn the fertile plains, the rich meadow lands, the for- 
ests, the mountains, the rivers and the ports, to account ; 
by dotting them with smiling habitations, by spotting them 
with a new and improved breed of stock, by the echo of 
the axe in their dense recesses, by exporting their gold and 



408 TRAVELS ON THE TTESTERN SLOPE 

retaining a part of it as a circulating medium, and by the 
snoT-ting leviathans and the whitened and wide spread can- 
vas, plying within their provinces. 

Iron, petroleum, obsidian, pitchstone, Tolcanic glass, and 
murate of soda abound in different localities on the Isth- 
mus. The extent of the different kinds of metals and min- 
erals in tliis region of the Mexican Republic, no discovery 
has defined, nor can it, where will and mind are trammeled 
by the influence of superstition, and by the supererogation 
of benighted ages. 

The climate throughout the whole of the ten-itory of 
Tehauntepec, is healthful and invigorating, except in prox- 
imity to the low and overflowed lands near the lagoons and 
some of the rivers. By one day's travel, elevated districts 
can be reached, where the air is cool and bracing, where 
the tropical fruits and productions gi'ow abundantly ; and 
where invalids resort, and the infirmities of age are wisely 
cared for by the profusion of nature's cup. The thermom- 
eter seldom falls below seventy degrees, and is not often 
known to rise higher than ninety-eight degi-ees, Fahrenheit. 
It is highest in the month of May, just before the rainy 
season sets in, is quite low through that season ; and in the 
months of December and January, it is usually the lowest. 
The population of this territory is mixed, as in other por- 
tions of the Mexican Confederacy. That of the natives 
greatly predominates ; however, there are a few of other 
classes, especially Europeans and Creoles, who seem to 
exercise the civil functions. 

The same ill feeling exists here between the European 
Spaniards and the Creoles, as I have already alluded to, 
which perhaps is owing to tlie assumption of natural rights 
on the part of the former. In character, appearance, and 
morals ; in color, their facial contour, and the phrenological 
formation of their heads ; in their habits and manners, the 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 409 

Indians of the Isthmus scarcely differ from those who live 
in other portions of the Republic ; but they seem to have 
greatly departed from the moral code of the Aztecs in point 
of sobriety. 

The Zapotecos tribe, inhabiting the Pacific plains, appear 
to be more advanced than the tribes of other portions of 
the territory. Even before the Conquest, they were inde- 
pendent of the iron rod of Montezuma, and excited the 
jealousy of that monarch, from their knowledge of the 
mechanical arts and their well fortified towns. From the 
record of history, as handed down by Bernal Diaz, these 
Indians appeared to have been far advanced in civilization, 
to have cultivated the soil and manufactured their products ; 
such as cotton, ixle, and cacao, and even to have under- 
stood working many of the metals. 

The Zoology of the Tehauntepec territory resembles 
that of other portions of tropical Mexico, which I have 
already alluded to in another number of these letters ; 
however, there are some animals here whose peculiarities 
I desire to notice. 

The Vampyre bat dwells in the region of la Boca del 
Monte, where in the night he stealthily bleeds both man 
and beasts, with such extreme care as not to arouse them 
to self protection ; and when they awaken from repose, 
they scarcely know what has produced the effect ; but they 
feel a languor bordering on inertness. This kind of bat 
is found in Central America, and also within the tropical 
portion of South America. 

La Boca is near sixty-five miles north of La Yentosa, 
on the road to Minatitlan. A few of the Alpaca or Peru- 
vian sheep inhabit the mountainous districts of San Juan 
Guichicovi, west of the road to Minatitlan. Fish are said 
to abound in the rivers and all the smaller streams, on both 
sides of the dividing Cordillera ridge of the Tehaunte- 



410 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

pec territory, and are considered of an excellent quality; 
though they inhabit the mountains and low-land streams of 
the tropics. 

Among the wild animals adapted for game, the deer, the 
coatimondi, hares, rabbits, squirrels, and peccary may be 
mentioned as the most important. The Monkey tribe 
abound here with all its varieties as in other portions of 
tropical Mexico. The preacher monkey has undoubtedly 
obtained his name from imitating the ranting orators of 
holy and pious thought, when the early missions were 
established among the iiatives. The wild turkey and 
curassow abound in most parts of Tehauntepec, and are 
remarkably tame from their being little hunted. The 
crested curassow resembles the turkey, and may be ranked 
among the domestic fowls of portions of Mexico. I saw 
many of them domesticated at San Bias, some at Tepic, 
and also at Colima ; and between the latter place and the 
port of Manzanillo, I saw wild ones. The dove, pigeon, 
quail, partridge, tinamon and chachalaca are abundant, and 
no small delicacies at the festal board. The latter of those 
fowls somewhat resembles the hen ; though it possesses in 
its flesh a greater degree of delicacy and nourishment. 
The same birds of prey and plumage inhabit the wilds of 
the mountains, and the plains of Tehauntepec, that I have 
heretofore described. 

On the Pacific coast near the lagoons there are numer- 
ous species of Land . Tortoise ; and one of the kind is 
much appreciated for its shell, which is used by the natives 
to manufacture combs, and which I have seen imported 
into the portions of Mexico I had the satisfaction of explor- 
ing. 

The honey-bee is found in the territory of Tehauntepec 
on liigh elevations, in the same manner as in the region of 
Tonila, Suyula, Zapotlan, and in the higher altitudes of the 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA, 411 

Republic. The Cochineal insects were formerly much 
attended ; but of late, owing to the chemical dyes of the 
French, their use has greatly fallen off. 

The same productions abound in various parts of Tehaun- 
tepec as in the territory of Colima ; such as cotton, sugar- 
cane, the palm family, cacao, mamey Colorado, chirrimoya, 
cactus, banana, plantain, pine-apple, rice, orange, lime, 
lemon, citron, fig, plum, the Peruvian bark tree, sarsaparilla, 
mahogany, Campeche wood, vanilla, the pepper tree, tama- 
arind, the banian tree, Jatropha manihot, sweet potato, 
melons, tomato, jalap vine ; and many others which I did 
not allude to in my description of the forest and fruit bear- 
ing trees with respect to that territory, and the States of 
Guerrero and Oajaca. 

It is now my intention to consider more fully, much of 
the balance of the natural productions which I have, up to 
the present, omitted. Notwithstanding, there are peculiar- 
ities about some of those which I have mentioned, and 
which, occasioaally I may bring under review. In different 
portions of the Territory, sugar-cane attains twenty-eight 
joints in height, with a diameter from two to three inches, 
which is similar to that grown at the mouth of the Ama- 
zon river, in South America. 

In some portions of this country, sugar-cane is seen 
growing wild, and of a remarkable saccharine quality. Cacao 
is considerably cultivated, especially in the northern divis- 
ion of the Isthmus. The climate and soil are well disposed to 
produce cotton of a fine quality ; but there is here as else- 
where in this Republic, a little attention paid to its culture. 
The army worm which so often ruins the prospects of the 
southern planter, is entirely unknown to reign in this 
region. Brazil-wood and Palo-amarillo abound throughout 
the Isthmus, and are important for their red and yellow 
dyes. Tobacco is much cultivated, and grows most luxu- 



412 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

riantly. There is one kind called " carral," which is not so 
large as that del monte ; but in point of quality and flavor, 
it enjoys as high a reputation as the best of Cuba tobacco. 
Everywhere in the forest, climbing vines prevail which 
add a coolness to the traveler's toil and invite him to the 
shade of repose, while some of the varieties — " bejucos de 
agua," produce a sweet, cool water to refresh him under 
the influence of the meridian sun. 

Much of the country north of the dividing ridge, or the 
northern division of the territory, abounds in allspice, 
botanically called Myrtus Pimenta. This tree is deserving 
of some more notice than casually calling it by name and 
giving it a place. It often rises to the height of more than 
twenty feet, and when in blossom, presents an aspect of 
rare beauty with its oval leaves, four inches long, and of a 
deep green and shining color, and with numerous branches 
of white flowers, each having four petals. Casting the eye 
over the vegetable creation, one can certainly witness no 
object so beautiful and enchanting as a pimento tree in the 
month of July. 

The usual method of forming a new pimento plantation 
is to appropriate a piece of woody ground in a part of the 
country where the scattered trees are found in a native 
state. The other trees being cut away ; in a year or two, 
young pimento plants are found to spring up in all parts, 
which are supposed to have been produced from berries 
dropped by birds. In September the berries are fit to be 
gathered, and one industrious man can gather seventy 
pounds per day. Then they are spread on a terrace in the 
sun, where they should be ke[)t free from the influence of 
moisture, and when dry, their appearance is that of a red- 
dish-brown. Allspice is so called from enjoying the repu- 
tation of resembling in flavor a mixture of cinnamon, 
nutmegs and cloves. An odoriferous oil is distilled from 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 413 

its leaves. What a field is here presented for enterprise 
and the stern march of man to an abode in a paradise as of 
yore ! 

Near el rio de Coatzacoalco, coffee trees are seen grow- 
ing abundantly, and apparently in a wild state, and with 
few exceptions, no care is taken to prune and properly 
cultivate the trees ; notwithstanding this neglect, the ber- 
ries are reputed to be of a superior quality in point of 
flavor. 

Caoutchouc is a substance obtained from the milky juice 
of several plants, which are natives of the torrid zone. The 
chief ones are the Hevea, Guianensis and Jatropha elas- 
tica. This juice is also obtained from several trees of 
different genera, and in this manner : Being procured by 
incisions, it is applied in successive layers over a mould of 
clay, and dried by exposure to the sun, and to the smoke 
from burning fuel. When perfectly dry, the mould is 
broken, leaving the caoutchouc in the form of a hollow ball. 
In its solid state, caoutchouc is of a close texture, distincly 
fibrous, of a light brown color, or sometimes, nearly white. 
It was not until the year 1736 that this extraordinary 
natural production was made known in Europe. It is 
during the wet season that the incisions are generally made, 
in order to obviate their drying up. 

The India-rubber tree abounds extensively in the north- 
ern division of the territory, and also in portions of the 
southern division ; though more especially in the region of 
Uspanapa river, and most of the other rivers in the north. 
It is computed that each tree properly attended, will yield 
a pound of gum per year, which is usually worth forty 
cents. This is another among the numerous staples which 
I have and am to enumerate, as being destined sources of 
profit to an industrious people. 

La Yucca or the Jatropha manihot flourishes in most 



414 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

every part of tlie Territory. Cassava is made from this 
plant or shrub. This grows near eight feet high, having 
broad, shining and sometimes, hand-shaped leaves, with 
beautiful white and rose-colored flowers. The roots are 
the only edible parts of the shrub or plant, which I have 
horetofore described. 

Cassia or wild cinnamon abounds on the Pacific coast in 
the southern division of the Territory. Its bark was well 
known to the ancients and is no less esteemed by the 
moderns ; though since the use of cinnamon has grown so 
important, the former is little required, except for the 
preparation of what is called the oil of cinnamon. The 
buds as well as the bark are used in cooking. 

Gum Arabic is the product of the Acacia arabica and 
some other species of the same order, abounding in all 
parts of Tehauntepec. It exudes spontaneously, in a fluid 
state, and remains attached to the branches after it has 
concreted and become solid. This exudation takes place 
continually during the whole of the dry season, from Octo- 
ber to June ; but more copiously it flows immediately after 
the rains. Gum Arabic is obtained in rounded masses, 
capable of being easily reduced to a powder, insipid to the 
taste, or possessing a slight acidity, which, however is only 
perceptible to those who use it habitually. It is an impor- 
tant article in commerce, and from its reputed abundance 
in the territory, the day must come when its bulk and 
weight shall contribute to the sail, Avhich dot and whiten 
the Ocean. Its native name on the Isthmus is Mesquite. 

The bromelia pita, or ixle of the Territory, already 
slightly alluded to, differs somewhat from the agave Amer- 
icana of Europe, and the maguey of other portions of 
Mexico ; inasmuch, as the fibres of the former are reputed 
be much finer, even as fine as the finest flax. 

The Indigo plant or shrub, the Aiiil cimarron, or de 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 415 

Guatimala grows abundantly throughout the southern 
division of the Isthmus, in the same manner as it grows on 
several of the Hawaiian Islands. Saffron, and by the 
natives and the language of the country, called Azafron, 
flourishes also in portions of the Isthmus. Its value as a 
dye is well known. Its seeds are purgative, and are some- 
times used in dropsical cases. lis technical name is car- 
thamus tinctoria. 

The various species of Bombax and Ceiba are prodigious 
American forest trees, with huge buttresses projecting from 
their colossal trunks. The Bombax pentrandrum, a native 
of India, inhabits the southern division of the Isthmus. 
This yields a gum which is given in conjunction with spices 
in certain stages of bowel complaints ; and it is said to be 
purgative and diuretic. The leaves of a species of the 
bombax called Baobab constitute, when dried and reduced 
to powder, Lalo, a favorite article with the Africans, which 
they mix daily with their food, for the purpose of diminish- 
ing the excessive perspiration to which they are subject in 
the torrid climes of Africa. The fruit is the most useful 
part of the tree. Its pulp is slightly acid, agreeable, and 
frequently eaten ; while the juice expressed from it and 
mixed with sugar, constitutes a drink which is much valued 
as a specific in putrid and pestilential fevers. The dried 
pulp is mixed with water, and in some countries, adminis- 
tered in cases of dysentery. It is chiefly composed of gum, 
like gum Senegal, a sugary matter, starch, and acid which 
appears to be the malic. 

A shrub called by the natives of the Isthmus Achote, is 
technically known by the name of Bixa Orellana, and in- 
habits all portions of the territory. Its leaves are alternate, 
simple, on short stalks, without stipules; usually entire and 
leathery, and very often marked with transparent dots. 
The peduncles of this shrub are axillary and many flow- 



416 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

ered. Its seeds are angular, and covered with an orange 
red waxen pulp, or pellicle. The latter substance is the 
Arnotto of the shops ; it is separated from the seeds by 
washing. It is chiefly used in the preparation of chocolate, 
but was reckoned an antidote to the poison of the manioc 
or jatropha manihot. Farmers use it to stain their cheeses, 
and dyers for a reddish color. Martins says that the seeds 
are cordial, astringent, and febrifugal. 

The Palm family, or most of it abounds throughout this 
country under review, especially in its low altitudes. The 
kinds called Sagus laevis and genuina are the most noted 
for yielding the finest sago ; however, there is another kind 
quite noted in this respect, which is that of Saguerus Sac- 
cliarifer. This kind yields large quantities of juice, which, 
by fermentation produces an intoxicating beverage, and 
when boiled a sugar used for various purposes. When the 
tree is exhausted by the incessant draining Qf its fluids. Sa- 
go of good quality is obtained from its trunk, as much as 
one hundred and fifty to two hundred pounds weight from 
a single tree. The value of Sago is known to the commer- 
cial world. 

Of the Jatropha Manihot I have already written, giving 
some particulars of its utility. Here I wish to mention 
another kind called Jatropha Purgans, as prevailing on the 
Isthmus in low altitudes, on either side of la Sierra Madre. 
It is noted for the fierce acridity of its seeds, and from them 
an ex[)ressed oil is obtained, which is considered a valuable 
application in cases of the itch and the herpes ; it is also 
used, when a little diluted, in cases of chronic rheumatism. 
The varnish used by the Cliinese for covering boxes is 
made by boiling this oil with the oxide of iron. The leaves 
of this plant are considered as rubefacient and discutient ; 
and its milky juice is supposed to have a detergent and 
healing quality, and is sometimes used to dye linen black. 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 417 

Of some of the species of Anona which abounds in Te- 
huan tepee, the fruit is agreeable and succulent, possessing 
a sugary mucilage, which predominates over the slight aro- 
matic flavor that it possesses. Of this kind are the delicious 
custard apples and the cherimoyer of Peru, which nature 
has likened to the former name mentioned in this para- 
graph. Its pulp is yellowish, and when eating it one feels 
a devout gratitude for the wise provision and order of 
nature. 

Within the territory of Tehuantepec abound several of 
the species of the Laurel family of trees, whose spices are 
more or less aromatic and fragrant, while some are valua- 
ble for their timbers ; others have fruit which partake of 
the quality of the nutmeg ; some are useful febrifuges ; a 
number of them yield a fixed as well as a volitile oil, and 
an abundance of camphor. The kind called Laurus Nobi- 
lis is quite noted for its aromatic leaves, which are consid- 
erably used by confectioners ; however, there is another 
termed Tetranthera, whose fruit yields a greasy exudation, 
which bears the reputation of fixed oil, and is supposed to 
constitute the principal part of the fruit Persea Gratissima, 
so much valued in tropical Mexico and the West Indies. 
The kind here alluded to inhabits chiefly the northern divi- 
sion of the Isthmus. 

The Rattan Palms abound in all portions of the territory, 
though more especially in the low altitudes. By the inhab- 
itants they are called Canas de Indias ; they are described 
as residents of the dense forests bordering the rivers and 
rivulets, where the rays of the sun can hardly penetrate, in 
which situations they form spiny bushes which obstruct all 
passage into those jungles, rising to the tops of the highest 
trees, and falling again, so as to resemble a prodigious 
length of cable, adorned, however, with the most beautiful 
leaves, pinnated, or terminating in graceful tendrils. 



418 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

Throughout most of the Pacific, or southern division, In- . 
dian Figs, of the cactaceie family of plants, grow plentiful- 
ly, as in other portions of Mexico. The flowers are either 
showey or minute, and usually last only one day or night. 
The leaves are almost always wanting, and when present 
they are fleshy, smooth, entire, or spine shaped. Its fruit 
is oblong, nearly two inches long and an inch in diameter, 
and resembles the properties of the currant. Some kinds 
are refreshing and agreeable to the taste, while others are 
mucilaginous and insipid. Many are regarded as pallia- 
tives in cases of intermittent and bilious fevers, in conse- 
quence of their sub-acid juice. 

The Mango tree flourishes generally in every portion of 
the Isthmus, having a resinous, gummy, caustic, or milky 
juice. The fruit of this species of the order of Anacards is 
as highly valued in tropical countries as the peach in the 
temperate ; the bark of its root is a bitter aromatic, and is 
employed in cases of diarrhoea, and others of a kindred 
character. The young leaves possess fine pectoral proper- 
ties, while the old ones are used for cleaning the teeth ; the 
seeds of the fruit are medicinally considered anthelmintic, 
and a resin which flows from the stem or trunk of this tree, 
enjoys the reputation of being antisyphilitic. 

Melons grow in almost every part of Tehuantepec, and 
usually possess, in a remarkable degree, saccharine proper- 
ties seldom equalled in more temperate climates. 

Sour Oranges, and those of the wood, or del monte, are 
abundant in every part, while the Cliinese Orange attains 
its sugary mellowness only in the table land districts sur- 
rounding San Miguel Chimala})a. 

JNIammee Apple, called by the natives Mamey Colorado, 
is a fruit growing on a shrub-like tree, which is rather par- 
asitical, and yields a resinous juice : the flowers are numer- 
ous, axillary, or terminal, and in color they are either white, 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 419 

pink, or red, depending on the variety. Great excellence 
is ascribed to this fruit in the tropical regions of America, 
being highly esteemed as a desert, and it is said to rival the 
Mangosteen, the most delicious of all fruits which inhabits 
the straits of Mallacca. This resembles a middle-sized 
orange, and is filled with a sweet and most delightful pulp. 

Under the natural order of Soapworts, a kind of tree 
called technically Melicocca Bijuga, but by the natives of 
the Isthmus Mamoncillo, grows generally throughout the 
country. Its berries possess an agreeable subacid flavor ; 
its leaves are alternate, compound, and often marked with 
dots, while the flowers are in recemes, small, white or pink. 

Punica Granatum, under the order of Myrtacese, is a 
tree and also a shrub of the Isthmus, having red, white, and 
occasionally yellow flowers. It is celebrated in medicine, 
forming entire forests in Persia. A decoction of the bark 
of its roots is a powerful anthelmintic, and in its flowers one 
finds properties which are tonic and astringent ; while the 
acid juice of its seeds is found useful in bilious fevers ; the 
bark of its fruit is much used in chronic dysentery. The 
natives call this species Granado. 

Wild tomatos grow in most parts, and are used for culi- 
nary purposes. In the enumeration of plants, trees, and 
shrubs abounding in various portions of Tehuantepec terri- 
tory, which I have made, and am still to make, to a certain 
extent, my object is to present the capabilities of a country 
which it seems a sin against Providence to let molder in 
the waste of its natural grandeiir. It is now like the Qua- 
ker spirit, it will remain inert till some great moment moves 
it to the center, and shakes from its fettered thought that 
darkness which bedims reason, and teaches man that he is 
a tool. 

The fruit of the Papaya Carica is abundant. A great pe- 
culiarity observed in the juice of its unripe fruit is that it is 



420 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

a most powerful and efficient vermifuge ; and moreover that 
the tree has the singular property of rendering the toughest 
animal substances tender, by causing a separation of the 
muscular fibre ; its very vapor, even, does this. Newly 
killed meat suspended among the leaves, and even old hogs 
and old poultry, when fed on the leaves and fruit, become 
tender in a few hours. This is the Papaw. 

Under the order of Laurels I will not omit to mention 
several species of trees which are noted for the valuable 
properties embraced in their constitutional formation. That 
of Caryodaphne Densiflora is one whose bark is brownish, 
and tonic in its application as medicine, and contains a great 
quantity of bitter and somewhat balsamic matter, while the 
leaves are gratefully aromatic, aud are used in an infusion, 
like tea, against spasms of the bowels, and the convulsive 
affections of pregnant women. 

Another, called Sassafras Officinale, of that order, has a 
great reputation as a powerful sudorific, and especially 
combined with Guaiacum and Sarsaparilla, in cutaneous 
affections, chronic rheumatism, and old syphalitic maladies. 
The dried leaves of that species contain so much mucilage 
that they are frequently used within the tropics, and in the 
southern portion of the United States, for thickening soup, 
like Hibiscus Esculentus. The bark of the roots is pre- 
ferred to the other portions of the tree. 

In the northern division of Tehuantepec there are two 
species of trees, under the order of Myrtles, and called 
Psydium Pyriferum and Pomiferum, the latter of which is 
much more acid than the other. The former bears a white 
fruit, while the other a red. 

These fruits are commonly known as Guavas, and resem- 
ble, in a great measure, the pomegranate respecting their 
oval shaped form and astringent properties. The pulp is 
made into an agreeable jelly, which imparts a delicate 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 42 1 

flavor. They are indigenous to the tropics of America, 
whence they have been carried to the eastern world. In 
an eminent degree they possess a cooling property, when 
eaten with cream and sugar, which seems to invigorate the 
system, especially during the summer season within the 
tropical sphere. A taste for those fruits is necessarily 
acquired. Most of the whole family of Myrtles inhabit 
portions of the Isthmus, and are natives of the tropics ; 
though they will bear acclimation to more temperate regions. 
Guayaba constitutes the common name of this genus in the 
northern portion of the country. 

A species of the above order, called Caryophyllus aroma- 
ticus, bears a fruit, whose properties are well known in com- 
merce ; though it is its dried flower-buds which constitute 
the cloves of the shops. 

The Pimento tree belonges to this family, under the name 
of Eugenia acris, whose unripe fruit abounds in essential 
oil, which is a powerful irritant, and is often used to allay 
toothache. The bruised berries are considered carmin- 
ative, and as adapted to stimulate the stomach, and pro- 
mote digestion. 

A plant call Chato-bejuco abounds in the forests of the 
northern division of the Isthmus, and is botanically known 
as Caccoloba urifera under the order of Polygonaceae. It 
is remarkable for its succulent violet calyx in which its 
nuts are enveloped, and is on that account called the Sea- 
side Grape in the West Indies. It yields an extremely 
astringent extract ; its wood dyes red, and its currant-like 
berries are acid, pleasant, and edible. 

Palma christi, technically known as Ricinus communis is 
noted for its seeds yielding an oil, remarkably though mildly 
purgative, and flourishes mostly in the northern division. 

The Mexican Copaiba grows in the southern division and 
is here known by the name of Copalche, and technically by 



422 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

that of Iledwigia balsaraifera. Its concrete juice is hard, 
shining, transparent, citron-colored, and inordous, and in 
appearance resembles amber ; and it forms a beautilul trans- 
parent varnish mixed with linseed oil, when dissolved by a 
heat little less than to boil the oil. This is a valuable article 
in commerce. 

Cathartocarpus fistula of the sub-order of Fabaceae, is a 
plant known in the central and southern divisions, and, to a 
great extent, resembles, in its fruit, the properties of the 
Cassia lanceolata, the Senna of commerce. 

Styrax officinale, known bv the name of Liquidamber, 
is a species of trees under the order of Storaxworts, which 
produces amber gum, in the form of small reddish globules. 
It is a fragrant, bitterish, and honey-like substance. In 
medicine it is used as an expectorant. 

Abounding in different portions of the Isthmus, one 
beholds trees and plants whose properties produce a tannic- 
acid, well adapted to promote the tanning of leather ; such 
as the Mangle bianco, Guayabo, and Bejuco amarillo. 
Plere one is not to pause and resort to chemical affinities, 
in order to obtain colors to supply the wants of a barbar- 
ous, a civilized, or a refined people ; for the forests abound 
in plants and trees to meet their wants ; as Nature smiles 
when the learned step aside to find artificial combinations 
to supplant her order. 

The Genipap, a fruit as large as an orange, of a whitish- 
green color, but containing a dark purple juice with an 
agreeable vinous taste, is borne by a tree called Genipa 
Armericana, which inhabits the northern and southern di- 
visions of the Isthmus, yielding a beautiful black color. The 
Vanilla aromatica, yielding a brown color, grows in the 
central and northern divisions of the Isthmus. The wood 
of the Madura tinctoria is the dye wood called Fustick ; it 
contains morine, a peculiar coloring matter, and grows in 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 423 

most parts of Tehauntepec : Its fruit is pleasant, and is used 
in this country for medicine, applied to the same purposes 
as the black mulberry in Europe. Most of the order of 
Cedrelads abound in portions of the Istliraus, and are 
rather common to the tropics of America. The wood of 
this order is fragrant and aromatic, yielding a green color ; 
and many species of the order are used for medicine, pos- 
sessing properties both febrifugal, astringent, and peculiar 
to those of the Peruvian bark. 

Campeachy-wood known on the Isthmus as Campeche, 
flourishes in the northern and southern divisions, though 
more generally in the southern ; its wood yields a black or 
purple color, and is an article worth commercial adventure. 

Among the purgatives or emetics, Ipecacuanha of the 
order of Cinchonads, holds one of the first ranks for utility ; 
inhabiting the Isthmus and generally, tropical America. It 
is the root of the Cehpaelis Ipecacuanha, a little, creeping- 
rooted, half-herbaceous plant, found in damp, shady forests. 
It is also sudorific and expectorant. Its powder acts upon 
the respiratory passages as an irritant, producing spasmodic 
asthma. In some cases the mere odor of the root seems 
sufficient to excite diflSiculty of breathing, with a feeling of 
suffocation. 

Extending one's research through the forests of this pro- 
lific country, the different species of plants and trees of the 
order of Ivy warts, present their importance to the thought- 
ful and speculative. Ginseng falls under this order, and 
might be procured most abundantly not only here, but in 
most parts of tropical America. It has an agreeable bitter- 
sweet root, and is used sometimes as Liquorice. The 
Chinese are said to administer it in all diseases resulting 
from the weakness of the body. Many species of Legumi- 
nous plants flourish in portions of the Isthmus, and of this 
order, the roots of the Liquorice may be mentioned, which 



424 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

contains an abundance of a sweet, mucilaginous juice, and 
is much esteemed as a pectoral. 

In the order of Sapotads, several species of fruit are 
found highly distinguished in their native countries, espe- 
cially on the Isthmus, as articles of desserts : Such as the 
Sappodilla plum, the Star apple, and the Marmalade. 

Several of the species of Gingerwort may be observed 
in most parts of the Territory. They are nearly all trop- 
ical in their habits, and noted as objects of great beauty, 
either on account of the high development of the floral 
envelops, or because of the rich and glaring color of the 
bracts. However, they are chiefly valued for the sake of 
the aromatic stimulating properties of the root or rhizome ; 
such as are found in Ginger, Galangale, and Zedoary; 
while many more species of this order are used in like- 
manner. The warm and pungent roots of the greater and 
less Galangale, are not only used by the Indian doctors in 
cases of dyspepsia, but are also considered useful in coughs, 
given in infusion. 

A species of Curcuma of this order is supposed to fur- 
nish the astringent Mexican drug, called Cascara de Pin- 
gue, which abounds in tannin. Jicara grows in most parts 
of equatorial America. It falls within the order of Cres- 
centiads, and is specifically known as Crescentia cujete, the 
Calabash tree, which bears a great gourd-like fruit, filled 
with a sub-acid pulp. This is eaten by the natives, and 
out of it the natives prepare poultices, and use its hard 
shell for holding fluids, in the room of bottles. 

No good reason can be assigned why the Breadfruit-tree, 
botanically called Artocarpus, of the order of Artocarpads, 
would not flourish on the continent of America within the 
tropics, as well as on the islands scattered over the Pacific 
Ocean, possessing a similar climate. The edible quality of 
the bread-fruit seems to be owing to the presence of a large 
quantity of starch in its succulent head. 



> 

OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 425 

The Palo de Vaca, or Cow-tree, which I have mentioned 
in a letter descriptive of the fruits and productions, pecu- 
liar, in part, to tropical America, is a species of the Brosi- 
mum, of the order above. The milk which this tree yields 
has been analysed by various chemists, and is pronounced 
as rich and wholesome, and as good as that of the cow. 

In the central division of the Isthmus, one observes a 
species of the order called Fabaceae, bearing the tamarind 
plum, which has a pod formed with a delicate, agreeable 
pulp, much less acid than that of the Tamarind. This spe- 
cies is known as Dialium Indicum. Copaifera officinalis 
is a species also of the order under review, and is found 
not only here, but in many of the equatorial parts of 
America, especially in the province of Antioquia of South 
America. 

The balsam of Copaiva is a liquid resinous juice which 
flows from incisions made in the stem of this tree. The 
juice is transparent, of a whitish or pale-yellowish color, 
and possesses an agreeable smell, and a bitterish, pungent 
taste. It is of the consistency of oil, or a little thicker ; 
and as a medicine, it is corroborating and detergent. Gum 
Dragon and Red Sandal-wood belong to Pterocarpus Draco 
and Santalinus ; while Gum Lac belongs to Erythrina 
monosperma ; and all of these are species of the order last 
mentioned. The first flourishes in all portions of the Isth- 
mus, while the latter more in the central and southern 
divisions. The valuable properties belonging to each of 
these, are generally well known to the commercial world. 
Sangre-drago and Palo de rosa comprise the Dregon and 
Sandal species of trees, as existing on the Isthmus. 

Several kinds of the family of Bignoniads are noticed 
growing, not only in Tehauntepec, but far south of the 
Equator ; especially in Brazil, where they are felled for 
the sake of their timber ; that called Ipe-tabacco furnishes 

R 



426 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

durable ship timber, and that called Ipeuna is considered 
one of the hardest species of wood known. 

The order of Fabaceae still furnishes more species of 
great importance ; and in this view, the gum Anime is pro- 
cured from Hymenaea courbaril ; and the Copal of Mex- 
ico is conceded to be the produce of a plant allied to this ; 
while the kind called Aloexylum agallochum, produces one 
of the two sorts of Calambac, Eagle-wood, or Lign-aloes, 
a fragrant substance, which, it is stated, consists of a con- 
cretion of the oily particles into a resin in the center of the 
trunk. This is brought on by some disease, and the tree in 
time dies of it. This species of trees abounds on the Isth- 
mus, and also in India. Of all perfumes, this resin is the 
most grateful to Oriental nations ; it is a " stimulant, cor- 
roborant, cephalic, and cardiac." Its scent is used against 
vertigo and paralysis. In still continuing my survey of the 
natural productions of this bountiful and productive country, 
I am led to notice several species of Sebestens or Cordi- 
aceae. They are peculiar to the tropics ; the fiesh of their 
fruit is succulent, mucilaginous, and emollient, as it is seen in 
the Cordia Myxa and Latifolia. The smell of their nuts 
when cut is heavy and disagreeable, while the taste of the 
kernels is like that of fresh filberts. These are the true 
Sebastens of the European Materia Medica. Cordia Myxa 
of this order is reckoned one of the best kinds for kindling 
fire by friction ; and it is said to have furnished tlie wood 
from which the Egyptians constructed their mummy-cases. 

This country is not destitute of its pineries ; for various 
species of the order of Pinaceae (Conifers) exist in the high 
altitudes of the central division, and would soon be turned 
to account, when the plains of this fertile, yet distracted 
territory may be settled by those, whose purposes it shall be 
to use and distribute the bounties of nature. 

Already in these letters I have alluded to the plant called 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 427 

Vanilla aromatica ; however I desire to mention this species 
of Orchids again, in order to have their properties more 
generally known. 

Vanilla is one of the most delightful aromatics yet dis- 
covered. The substance called by this name in the shops 
is the dried fruit of the Vanilla planifolia, and other spe- 
cies ; these contain a great deal of essential oil, and of ben- 
zoic acid, and they are used as a stomachic ; while some of 
them are considered to contain anthelmintic and diuretic 
properties. 

Several species of the order of Oliveworts have been 
noticed in this territory. The expressed juice from the 
kind termed Olea europaea is called Olive oil, the medicinal 
properties of which are demulcent, emollient and laxative. 
It enters extensively into the preparation of plasters, lini- 
ments, cerates, ointments, and enemas. As an external 
application, accompanied by long continued friction of the 
skin, it has been found beneficial in preventing the conta- 
gious influence of the plague. The bark is bitter and astrin- 
gent, and has had a great reputation as a substitute for 
Cinchona. It also yields a gum-like substance, once in 
repute as a vulnerary. Its wood is extremely durable and 
close-grained. 

Several species of Cedrelads flourish in the northern and 
sonthern divisions ; the wood of this order is generally fra- 
grant and aromatic. The bark of the Cedrela is fragrant 
and resinous ; while that of Cedrela Toona and Swietenia 
Mahagoni is highly medicinal, and is accounted febrifugal ; 
the former is a powerful astringent ; and though not bitter 
it is a tolerably good substitute for the Peruvian bark in 
the cure of remitting and intermitting fevers. Satin-wood 
is the produce of the kind termed Chloroxylon Swietenia, 
which is one of the plants that yield the wood oil of India. 
Mahogany is the timber of Swietenia Mahagoni, which is 



428 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

SO valuable for various purposes, a description of which I 
have already given. 

In this review I must not omit to mention a few species 
of the order of Spurgeworts, as abounding in this prolific 
land. The Crotonic species are considered important for 
medicinal purposes ; as Crotons perdicipes, campestris, 
balsamifer, thurifer, adipatus, humilis, origanifolius, and 
niveus. Frankincense is extracted from Crotons thurifer 
and adipatus. However, the most important among the 
aromatic Spurgeworts are the species which yield Casca- 
rilla, a valuable bitter, tonic, aromatic, and stimulent bark, 
and which also inhabit the West Indies. It is certain that 
the Croton pseudo-China furnishes Cascarilla in the low 
tropical portions of Mexico, where it is called Quina blanca, 
and Capalche bark. 

In observing more particularly the natural productions 
of this favored land, several species of Mastworts present 
themselves for important commercial consideration; the 
more especially the kind called Quercus Suber. 

The white and live Oaks also abound, as well as a few 
others adapted to dying. The fixed acids, called Quercitan- 
nic and GalUc, which have the power of guarding the 
animal and vegetable fibre from decay, are abundant in 
many of the Oaks inhabiting this country, whose bark is 
therefore, invaluable for tanning. 

The yellow dyeing bark, called Quercitron, belongs to 
Quercus tinctoria. Within the tropics this order of trees 
abounds in the high lands, and is unknown in the low alti- 
tudes. Quercus Suber produces the cork so well known, 
and so much used in the daily concernments of life. It is 
the external bark of this species, which is distinguished by 
the fungous texture of its bark, and the leaves are ever- 
green, oblong, somewhat oval, downy underneath, and 
waved. In the collecting of cork, it is customary to slit it 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 429 

With a knife, at certain distances, in a perpendicular direc- 
tion from the top of the tree to the bottom ; and to make 
two incisions across, one near the top, and the other near 
the bottom of the trunk. For the purpose of stripping the 
bark, a curved knife with a handle at each end, is used. 
Sometimes it is stripped in pieces the whole length, and 
sometimes in shorter pieces, — cross cuts being made at cer- 
tain intervals. After the pieces are detached, they are 
soaked in water, and when nearly dry, are placed over a 
fire of coals, which blackens their external surface. 

By the latter operation they are rendered smooth, and 
all the small blemishes are thereby concealed ; the larger 
holes and cracks are filled up by the introduction of soot 
and dirt. They are next loaded with weights to make them 
even, and are subsequently dried and packed in bales for 
exportation. When burnt, cork constitutes that light black 
substance known by the name of Spanish black. The corks 
for bottles are cut lengthwise of the bark, and consequently 
the pores lie across. After the outer bark is taken off of 
the tree, a new epidermis is formed, which, in six or seven 
years, becomes fit for use, and thus the world is furnished 
with corh. 

In looking over the order of nature within the tropics, 
especially equatorial America, one's admiration is agreea- 
bly heightened when he beholds and studies the peculiari- 
ties of Mangroves. The bark of this order is usually as- 
tringent, while the fruit of the kind called Rhizophora 
Mangle is reputed to be sweet and edible ; and the juice, 
when fermented, forms a light wine. To impart the pecu- 
liarities of the Mangrove tribe, I cannot but fall in rapture 
with the graphic description given by Dr. Wm. Hamilton, 
which is as follows : 

" In the economy of nature the Mangrove performs a 
most important part, wresting annually fresh portions of the 



430 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

land from the dominion of the ocean, and adding them to 
the dominion of man. This is effected in a twofold manner, 
by the progressive advance of the roots, and bj the aerial 
germination of the seeds, which do not quit their lofty cra- 
dle till they have assumed the form of actual trees, and 
drop into the water with their roots ready prepared to take 
possession of the mud in advance of their parent stems. 
The progression by the means of the roots is effected by 
fresh roots which issue from the trunk at some distance 
above the surface of the water, and arching downwards, 
penetrate the mud, establishing themselves as the pioneers 
of fresh invasions of the retiring element. In this manner 
the plants, soon after this descent from their parent trees, 
continue, during their early years, to advance steadily for- 
ward till they have obtained a height of about fifteen feet, 
and gained a position considerably in advance of their pa- 
rent trunks. After this fewer additions are made to the 
roots, but the head begins to expand in every direction, 
spreading its branches on all sides. These branches in 
their turn send down long slender roots, like those of the 
Banyan tree, w^hich, rapidly elongating, descend from all 
varieties of height, and reaching the water penetrate the 
mud, becoming in turn independent trees ; thus a compli- 
cated labyrinth is at length formed. Almost every part of 
the Mangrove, the bark, roots, and the fruit more particu- 
larly, abounds in an astringent principle, which is success- 
fully applied to the purposes of tanning. For external ap- 
plication, in arresting hemorrhage and disposing malignant 
ulcers, to assume a healthy action, a decoction of the bark 
has been found most effectual by Dr. Barham, who informs 
us, in his work, that he had a son ' that was extraordinarily 
full of the confluent small pox, the soles of whose fact sep- 
arated and came off like the sole of a shoe, and left his feet 
raw, and so tender that he could not set them upon the 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 431 

ground ; therefore he sent for some of the tan fat, or liquor 
of this bark, such as the natives tan their leather with, and 
adding a little alum, boiled it down very strong, with which 
he bathed his feet every day, and in about a week's time 
his feet were as hard and as firm as ever, and he was able 
to walk about with shoes on.' For tanning, the Mangrove 
is said to be infinitely superior to oak bark, completing in 
six weeks an operation which, with the latter, occupies at 
least six months ; and the sole leather so tanned is consid- 
ered to be far more lasting than any other. 

More than I should have done, I have described the geo- 
graphical and topographical positions of the territory of 
Tehuantepec, and its productions, both those which have 
been introduced, and those indigenous to the soil, but for 
the deep interest and importance which this portion of the 
Mexican Republic is fast assuming with reference to the 
traveling community, and the commercial affairs existing 
between the two oceans. 

No country is more kindly smiled on by the fecundity of 
nature, exciting man to works and deeds of greatness, still 
there is none which feels more the sting of indolence and 
utter inactivity. It is sleeping the sleep of death ! To a 
consideable extent I have indulged myself in describing the 
indigenous products ; but it has been with a view to throw 
light upon all objects which have excited my attention re- 
specting this favored land. The productions of the States 
of Oajaca, Chiapa, Tobasco, and Vera Cruz, as well as 
Central America, and a large portion of South America, 
assimilate themselves to those under review in the territory 
of Tehuantepec, and would, to an industrious people, present 
a field as truly romantic as grand, profitable as extensive, 
overshadowing the world besides. Americans of late have 
by a foreign people, (not only foreign by their very natures, 
but by will,) been termed a nation of filibusters ! And why ? 



432 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

because of a few restless spirits in our midst, who, perhaps, 
even at home, would rather steal than work. But the spirit 
of this unlawful aggrandizement is not confined to a few 
restless Americans ; for it is widely spread among a class of 
foreigners who have immigrated to our shores, and who, 
finding a subsistence difficult without labor, have associated 
together, with a few unprincipled Americans, and under the 
pretence of settlement in a foreign land, have assumed the 
rights which the compact of nations, nor the order of na- 
ture, can justify ; and fleeing from the United States in this 
condition, and with this spirit, the American people in for- 
eign lands are consequently branded and stigmatized as a 
nation of filibusters ! 

The compact of nations nor the law of nature forbids the 
immersion of one sovereignty into that of another, because 
each is free to act in the same light as individuals compos- 
ing that sovereignty ; therefore, if the United States gov- 
ernment desires more territory, what natural right springs 
up to prevent it from such purchase, any more than would 
if an individual wanted another farm ? It is the fact of the 
disposition of the United States to purchase territory that 
has characterized them as a band of filibusters abroad. That 
nations, in the character of filibusters, have ever existed 
since the inception of human society, it needs but to turn 
over the astute pages of history to demonstrate. 

As I have already remarked, Americans desiring to 
travel or settle in Mexico should come here guarded by 
letters of introduction, which would pass tliem into the civil 
bands of Mexican society ; and then conducting themselves 
with as much propriety and respect as they would claim at 
home from foreigners, they would not be disposed to com- 
plain of having come to so fair a land. 

More guarded than ever should the government of the 
United States be with respect to admitting claims on the 



OF THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 433 

part of Americans against the Mexican government, for my 
own experience and observation have taught me that too 
many of them are gross exactions, originating from difficul- 
ties which they have incurred from their own willful ma- 
lignity of character. 

Near the large cities, and even towns and villages which 
I have visited in Western Mexico, my admiration was fre- 
quently excited to behold, not distant from their borders, 
high walls erected, embracing an area proportionate to the 
population, where lay the tombs of past ages ! As among 
other civilized nations, here I beheld the hand of art trac- 
ing the deeds of those who had acquired for themselves 
distinguished merit. These lines were written by the sculp- 
tor's pen. 

By the custom of the country, as well as by its religion, 
the property or the relations of the one who is about to be 
entombed, are forced to pay such an entrance fee as Pluto 
demanded of those who were to be ferried over the river 
Styx. In performing the last offices to the one departed, 
the ceremony and procession are in proportion to the 
amount paid ; and this would seem to warrant a person in 
the belief that mourners might be hired to perform their 
part of sadness and weeping. Many of the Mexican cem- 
eteries are beautifully ornamented with tropical shade and 
fruit trees, as well as by rose bushes and silver fountains. 

The comparative security which a man enjoys in the 
Eepublic of Mexico and that of the United States of 
America, with respect to personal rights, impresses one 
with wonder and astonishment. In the one, settlements 
are confined to cities, towns, villages, haciendas or ranchos, 
though mostly to the three former ; and beyond them, the 
sight is seldom treated with smiling habitations and the 
promise of a future abundance ; for marauding ladrones are 
ever on the alert to plunder th<3 pastures and granaries of 



434 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

their abundance ; while in the other, away from cities, 
towns, and villages, the watchman sleeps, and the keys of 
security rust for want of more use. 

In closing this letter, while contemplating the nearer re- 
lations the two Republics of North America are now, by 
treaty, and commercial stipulations, making towards ap- 
proaching a unity of interest, and drawing closer those 
bands around scattered fragments of nations that Nature 
had designed, from the peculiar and unseverable sphere 
they occupy to represent but one Great People, I have 
felt, under the volition of my pen, the onward march of 
destiny marked out to the sovereign States, and constitu- 
tional compact of the North. Theirs it is to navigate the 
unsounded rivers, and set the huge leviathans snorting up 
the mountain streams, and wafting to the ocean and to 
every flag, the products of their newly acquired and first 
upturned soil ; as it is theirs to build the happy mart, and 
shoot the shuttled looms from growths of their busy and 
adapted earth ; as it is theirs to build the scholar's home, 
and spread the useful lore ; as it is theirs to level the tow- 
ering mountains, and lay the iron bands ; also, as it is 
theirs to connect the most foreign parts by electric wings, 
and thunder their lightning news ! 

Therefore, in pursuance of the considerations here raised 
to view, friendship, mutual concession, and a desire to pro- 
mote reciprocal interests, should, in order to effect great 
and noble ends in the present relationship in which the citi- 
zens of the two Republics stand to each other, be written 
upon the brow, and be the Pillarof Light, which marks the 
path to mutual munificence and greatness. 

In looking over the past history of Anahuac, of New 
Spain, and lastly, the Republic of Mexico, the pen may 
certainly c<3nclude it a country of strange adventurers ; 
first, perhaps from towards the Arctic circle, hoping for a 



OP THE MEXICAN CORDILLERA. 435 

warmer sun and a more congenial sky ; secondly, from 
sunny Spain, the basis of hope was gold — the glittering 
metal ; and thirdly, the territory itself, the apparent object 
being political liberty, though, under the cover of ecclesi- 
astical despotism. In the prosperous rule of the Toltecs, 
the Government of Anahuac seemed, from the scattered 
pages of history I have been able to peruse as to them, to 
partake of more liberal and enlightened views and princi- 
ples, with reference to the regulations of its political peace 
and prosperity, than under the arbitrary despotism of Mon- 
tezuma, one of the most successful, yet the most avaricious 
of the past Indian chieftains. 

The settlement of Anahuac, under the auspices of the 
Spanish Government, had but one absorbing motive in the 
fore-ground, which was to demand gold, and return with 
cargoes of the precious metal to the mother-country, with- 
out advancing the steadfast prosperity of the newly ac- 
quired El Dorado of the West ; and in this view, it was 
only the force of circumstances, that caused the Spanish 
adventurers to depart, in the least, from a system, which, 
if pursued generally, would produce the most disastrous 
consequences to the prosperity of a State, or its dependency. 

In the formation of this new Government, a moral code 
was not sufficient ; but that of past despotism and anarchy 
was the nucleus, as also the basis of thought, of action, and 
of politics, becoming thereby Church and State, bound like 
the culprit by a merciless few, which, to the consternation 
of the nineteenth century, appalling as it may have been 
in all its forms, during the past centuries of its sway, has 
been perpetrated with as much tenacity and fixity of pur- 
pose, as that religious fanaticism, which ever seized the 
ancients ; moreover, especially, their rulers, in every age 
of their municipal being, and which has ever desolated the 
happy hearth-stones of the moderns up to the present 



436 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

period of time, through the means and subserving the pur- 
poses of ecclesiastical and political aspirants, desiring to be 
promoted to the first offices of the State. 

The pages of history abound with sanguine monuments 
erected to the fate of past nations, who were ruled by polit- 
ical religion alone, making no diflference what that religion 
may have been, when it has had exclusive control of 
States ! The Chinese, the Tyrian, the Babylonian, the 
Egyptian, the Assyrian, the Grecian, the Jewish, and the 
Roman, Governments of antiquity, as well as all modern 
nations having their politics founded ujoon this basis, had 
fallen, have fallen, and are falling, mouldered, and moul- 
dering, in the design of their splendor, which the magni- 
ficence of their expectancies was, and may be, intended to 
eclipse. 

The historic records gathered to delineate the prominent 
events of the Spanish Republics on the Continent of 
America, since the formation of their Constitutions, should 
instigate and awaken in the patriots of other nations, an 
enquiry into the cause of their anarchy, their want of peace, 
and their almost total overthrow and annihilation of per- 
sonal security and liberty, of rising prosperity and happi- 
ness, with one or tivo radiating instances of exception. The 
mind of man, with sucli dark pictures presented to its con- 
ception, reason and judgment, should feel pained to read 
the accursed demonstrations of petty tyranny under the 
sanctity of the Gown, the garb of religion. 

The Catholic religion lia«: not been alone in the endeavor 
to enslave mind and make it bow to a godly y^'?^', teacliing 
it that holiness and righteousness should emanate only from 
tlie ostentatious parade of pulpit sounds, sum])tuous tapes- 
try, gewgaw pictures, and tlie tinkling of bells ; for, where 
is there a creed or a system of religion which now appeals 
\o my pen to be noted in this letter for its purity, and which 



OF THE MEXICAN COKDILLEKA. 437 

has never been used for sinister ends, or for corrupting 
influences upon the body politic, among its petty chieftains? 
And history has stamped that fact too deeply in the minds 
of the veteran Republicans of the United States, to be 
effaced for ages to come ; and that too, when persecution 
was the order of Europe, and the heritage of America ! 
No man can doubt the propriety of religion, and that every 
prosperous people should possess the true principles of it ; 
but then, it should be pure and unselfish ; it should not 
form the basis nor motive power to wield the State, letting 
that province exclusively alone to politics, with reference 
to which, there will ever be two parties in a State, divided 
in their notions, their reasons, and their judgments, as to 
such measures as will conduce to the greatest national good, 
without the coalition of religion. 

Longer than I should have done, I have required your 
attention, have been a pensioner at your will, and taxed 
your patience ; and the only reward I may hope you to 
have received, is the pleasure of having perused these let- 
ters ; and that too, with a tolerant spirit of forbeaiance, a'S 
I have made no effort to marshal elocution, in order to 
attract or please, but have been content to write as appear- 
ances, circumstances, conjunctures, and evidences, have 
forcibly struck my mind, while making observations. 

In these many letters, it has been solely the endeavor of 
the author to unfold truth, letting it touch whomsoever it 
might, and as it has appeared to him ; regardless of politics, 
parties, religion, or the censure which he may incur, from 
a frank expression in disfavor of Church and State. He 
is aware of the unkind feelings which this may engender, 
in the minds of many persons of contracted notions ; how- 
ever, conviction would be brought home to such, should 
they visit this Republic, the theatre of political and rerig- 
ious factions and revolutions ! 



438 TRAVELS ON THE WESTERN SLOPE 

More than three hundred years have elapsed since the 
Conquest of Anahuac ; and since that period, what has 
been its progress, and how much happier and better condi- 
tioned are the Indian bands, who now merely exist as serfs 
or apparent slaves, paying a pittance in order to live a pious 
and holy life, than their Forefathers were ? though cruel 
and wicked as they may have been, in offering human sac- 
rifices ; for in their wake and succession, human sacrifices 
have constantly been offered up, to appease Mars, the 
ancient God of war, even to the present time ! and who, 
and what have been the Actors and the consequences ? 
Who brought light and intelligence to this foreign land ? 
and how have they -been disseminated among the Wild 
Men of the Forest, and impressed upon their reasons ? In 
this view, what are the consequences emanating from such 
light and inteUigence, in the form of internal peace and 
personal security, of inland development and improve- 
ments, except those which pertain to a few personages ? who 
have been promoted thus at the sacrifice of the mass of the 
community ! 

Adios, 

Seilor, 

Agricola, 

ClXCl5n|jA.TUS. 



Lb.,fe 



JO 



